Manual transmission cars going to be discontinued?

[Aaronlkl]

This may be the next big thing for many SG drivers!

 

Auto everything...

 

lol...

 

http://www.straitstimes.com/singapore/transport/autonomous-vehicle-trials-to-hit-public-areas-including-gardens-by-the-bay-soon#xtor=CS1-10

 

Driverless cars for the kayus.. Hopeful these cars would reduce the number of road hoggers in future!

 

http://www.topgear.com/car-news/electric/hands-self-driving-tesla-model-s-here

 

Get ready for the age of the self-driving Tesla. Speaking at a press conference in the US today, Tesla boss Elon Musk announced a new software update to its Model S cars that enables autonomous driving.

 

Dubbed ‘Autopilot’, the software update – available to download and install in the US tonight, with Europe and Asia to follow – is said to “relieve drivers of the most boring and potentially dangerous aspects of road travel”.

 

It all began last year, when Tesla started equipping Model S models with hardware to permit autonomy: tech including a forward radar, 12 long-range ultrasonic sensors scanning an area 16 feet around the car, a forward looking camera, and an electronic brake.

 

Today’s software update then, version 7.0, dovetails with this hardware to allow Model S cars – some 60,000 models – and the upcoming Model X to steer within a lane, change lanes (with the tap of the indicator), and maintain ‘traffic aware’ cruise control.

It also takes control of the brakes, to help avoid potential front- and side-on collisions, as well as preventing the car from wandering off the road.

 

Musk was, however, keen to stress that this first update is just the ‘beta’ version. Truly driverless cars are, he said, still a ‘few years away’, with today’s update meaning ‘the driver is responsible for, and ultimately in control of, the car’.

 

“The software is not at a point where the driver can abdicate responsibility,” Musk added.

 

He said it was important for owners to “exercise caution at this early stage. But eventually, there won’t be wheels and pedals, you’ll tell the car your destination, and you’ll go there.”

 

The ‘beta’ software is said to work best in dense traffic or when there are clear markings on the road. “It’s a real boon in high traffic situations,” Musk said. “If you’re in slow-moving traffic, it works super well, almost to the point where you can take your hands off the wheel.”

[Beehive3783]

Yes the new Jazz RS is available in manual but on indent basis only. Deposit 20K instead of the usual 10K for other models.

 

 

When the RS reaches our shore, its going to be priced more than 180K...Too ex liao leh.

 

For now i think for Manual cars in Sg, if you want something easy on the pocket and still packs a little tiny performance you could probably got for the Jazz Gk5 RS. Read somewhere that KM carries them but its upon request only and you have to deposit an extra 10k or something like that.

 

I used to drive Avante manual.

 

Can buy la. I used to get consistent 12km/L from RON97.

 

But now not worth it. So expensive. Back in 2009 they only cost less than 40K including COE.

 

so it's true, Chevrolet are drinker..

for manual, gearbox can also be an issue?

 

point noted, actually I was looking for avante, just don't have too much confidence in them..

they always picture to me as underpower, expensive, drinker etc

 

[Eyke]

But now not worth it. So expensive. Back in 2009 they only cost less than 40K including COE.

 

compared to that, which car now is worth it wor? 

[Aaronlkl]

Dual Clutch vs Manual Transmission (DCT vs MT) on BMW M4

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e02K1pLfMeE

[Count_duku]

I have been driving my manual car for almost 10 years , 197,000km - .

 

1. Clutch wear out about every 100,000km - replacement kit with pressure plate, clutch disc, slave cylinder. Drop transmission , sub frame, etc very labor intensive.

 

2. Master cylinder kaput about 100,000km as well and need to bleed brake/ clutch fluid every year. Pedal sticks to the floor and coming up. Fluid absorbs water, sometimes air bubbles, contamination from brake cos share the same reservoir. When warm the water / air expands causing the clutch to slip.

 

3. Gearbox oil also need to change regularly (2years maybe) - wear and tear on the bearings and synchro make it hard to change gears, whining noise , gear stick vibrations . Now using Redline light weight shockproof to avoid a rebuild.

 

All the fluid changes, minor repairs a few hundred each time . The major clutch change about $1700. Maintaining a manual transmission is definitely not easy.

[Mkl22]

I have been driving my manual car for almost 10 years , 197,000km - .

 

1. Clutch wear out about every 100,000km - replacement kit with pressure plate, clutch disc, slave cylinder. Drop transmission , sub frame, etc very labor intensive.

 

2. Master cylinder kaput about 100,000km as well and need to bleed brake/ clutch fluid every year. Pedal sticks to the floor and coming up. Fluid absorbs water, sometimes air bubbles, contamination from brake cos share the same reservoir. When warm the water / air expands causing the clutch to slip.

 

3. Gearbox oil also need to change regularly (2years maybe) - wear and tear on the bearings and synchro make it hard to change gears, whining noise , gear stick vibrations . Now using Redline light weight shockproof to avoid a rebuild.

 

All the fluid changes, minor repairs a few hundred each time . The major clutch change about $1700. Maintaining a manual transmission is definitely not easy.

What car you driving? So lousy ah?

 

Ok. Found out it's an Alfa. Enough said.

Edited May 7, 2016 by Mkl22

[Nzy]

I have been driving my manual car for almost 10 years , 197,000km - .

 

1. Clutch wear out about every 100,000km - replacement kit with pressure plate, clutch disc, slave cylinder. Drop transmission , sub frame, etc very labor intensive.

 

2. Master cylinder kaput about 100,000km as well and need to bleed brake/ clutch fluid every year. Pedal sticks to the floor and coming up. Fluid absorbs water, sometimes air bubbles, contamination from brake cos share the same reservoir. When warm the water / air expands causing the clutch to slip.

 

3. Gearbox oil also need to change regularly (2years maybe) - wear and tear on the bearings and synchro make it hard to change gears, whining noise , gear stick vibrations . Now using Redline light weight shockproof to avoid a rebuild.

 

All the fluid changes, minor repairs a few hundred each time . The major clutch change about $1700. Maintaining a manual transmission is definitely not easy.

 

So lousy? My current car mileage almost 150k km. Haven't had to do any transmission work yet. Clutch still working perfectly. I think might be your clutch control lousy.

[Ahhao_01]

Jus test drive hyuandai accent 1.4 6 speed manual last weekend

[Ivan_06]

I have been driving my manual car for almost 10 years , 197,000km - .

 

1. Clutch wear out about every 100,000km - replacement kit with pressure plate, clutch disc, slave cylinder. Drop transmission , sub frame, etc very labor intensive.

 

2. Master cylinder kaput about 100,000km as well and need to bleed brake/ clutch fluid every year. Pedal sticks to the floor and coming up. Fluid absorbs water, sometimes air bubbles, contamination from brake cos share the same reservoir. When warm the water / air expands causing the clutch to slip.

 

3. Gearbox oil also need to change regularly (2years maybe) - wear and tear on the bearings and synchro make it hard to change gears, whining noise , gear stick vibrations . Now using Redline light weight shockproof to avoid a rebuild.

 

All the fluid changes, minor repairs a few hundred each time . The major clutch change about $1700. Maintaining a manual transmission is definitely not easy.

Really lousy. My previous thaiyota Vios Mt. No issues with clutch, master cylinder.... Oh people said your car is alfa. Known for high maintenance. Enuff said.

[Phelan]

So lousy? My current car mileage almost 150k km. Haven't had to do any transmission work yet. Clutch still working perfectly. I think might be your clutch control lousy.

I agree. I drove an alfa gt manual for 8 years and 240k km mileage. Didnt change clutch or clutch master. How you control the clutch certainly plays a big part on the wear of the clutch Edited May 15, 2016 by Phelan

[Turboguy]

I agree. I drove an alfa gt manual for 8 years and 240k km mileage. Didnt change clutch or clutch master. How you control the clutch certainly plays a big part on the wear of the clutch

 

maybe he throws his clutch often and launches freely, oh yea

[Lycanthrope]

how about daihatsu terios ?

[Lab4games]

manual gear is not going away anytime soon. here's mine.

 

[Turboguy]

 

oh yea, here's mine too

Edited May 17, 2016 by Turboguy

[Count_duku]

I agree. I drove an alfa gt manual for 8 years and 240k km mileage. Didnt change clutch or clutch master. How you control the clutch certainly plays a big part on the wear of the clutch

 

Yes, you are right I actually ride the 2nd gear quite a bit cos the first gear too short and jerky. The 1st clutch was changed 125,000 and 2nd clutch at 195,000. Of course when drop transmission, everything below change one shot. Added more maintenance stuff below -

 

1. Clutch wear out about every 125,000km - replacement kit with pressure plate, clutch disc, slave cylinder. Drop transmission , sub frame, etc very labor intensive. 

 

2. Master cylinder kaput about 130,000km as well and need to bleed brake/ clutch fluid every year. Pedal sticks to the floor and coming up. Clutch fluid absorbs water, sometimes air bubbles, contamination from brake cos share the same reservoir. When engine is hot the water / air expands causing the clutch to slip. 2nd master cylinder changed at 197,000km - wasn't totally broken but clutch biting point getting too low. 

 

3. Gearbox (M32 equivalent) oil also need to change regularly - wear and tear on the bearings and synchro make it hard to change gears, whining noise , gear stick vibrations . Now using Redline light-weight shockproof to avoid a rebuild.

 

4. Gear shifts stiff - under the gearstick there are 2 lingkage cables that run into the engine bay and attach to the shift linkage beside the transmission. Well, the undertray is sagging and chui already, so every-time go thru puddles the water/dirt splashes onto the cables. Every service the mechanic will clean and lubricate the linkage to make the shifts smoother.

 

5. Cosmetic stuff - clutch pedal rubber pad, ripped after stepping too much. Gearknob leather ripped/ deteriorated from usage and sweat.

 

Planning to renew COE and aiming for 500,000km .

Edited May 17, 2016 by Count_duku

[Beehive3783]

No wonder your clutch and stuff so fast up lorry la. It's driver problem + Alfa problem combo meal.

 

 

Yes, you are right I actually ride the 2nd gear quite a bit cos the first gear too short and jerky. The 1st clutch was changed 125,000 and 2nd clutch at 195,000. Of course when drop transmission, everything below change one shot. Added more maintenance stuff below -

 

1. Clutch wear out about every 125,000km - replacement kit with pressure plate, clutch disc, slave cylinder. Drop transmission , sub frame, etc very labor intensive. 

2. Master cylinder kaput about 130,000km as well and need to bleed brake/ clutch fluid every year. Pedal sticks to the floor and coming up. Clutch fluid absorbs water, sometimes air bubbles, contamination from brake cos share the same reservoir. When engine is hot the water / air expands causing the clutch to slip. 2nd master cylinder changed at 197,000km - wasn't totally broken but clutch biting point getting too low. 

3. Gearbox (M32 equivalent) oil also need to change regularly - wear and tear on the bearings and synchro make it hard to change gears, whining noise , gear stick vibrations . Now using Redline light-weight shockproof to avoid a rebuild.

 

4. Gear shifts stiff - under the gearstick there are 2 lingkage cables that run into the engine bay and attach to the shift linkage beside the transmission. Well, the undertray is sagging and chui already, so every-time go thru puddles the water/dirt splashes onto the cables. Every service the mechanic will clean and lubricate the linkage to make the shifts smoother.

 

5. Cosmetic stuff - clutch pedal rubber pad, ripped after stepping too much. Gearknob leather ripped/ deteriorated from usage and sweat.

 

Planning to renew COE and aiming for 500,000km .

 

[Vinceng]

Here's mine. *dream car

[Lab4games]

i should probably add on to say, brand new 2016! not registered yet. going to get it on the road soon!

 

 

 

manual gear is not going away anytime soon. here's mine.