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2015 Forester 2.0


subarudreamer
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Hi Orixy,

 

Even FA20DIT, there is no clogged intake valve symptoms that will decrease the performance of the engine.

Hi OIALT, from online research the FA20DIT does suffer from clogged intake valves due to the Direct Injection tech. Same applies to other DI engines. Maybe your can share where you've came to know otherwise.

 

https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/higher-mileage-xt-owners-have-you-inspected-for-carbon-on-the-intake-valves.543866/

 

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2772681

 

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6014277-Direct-%28exhaust%29-injection-engines#/topics/6014277

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Hi OIALT, from online research the FA20DIT does suffer from clogged intake valves due to the Direct Injection tech. Same applies to other DI engines. Maybe your can share where you've came to know otherwise.

 

https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/higher-mileage-xt-owners-have-you-inspected-for-carbon-on-the-intake-valves.543866/

 

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2772681

 

https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?6014277-Direct-%28exhaust%29-injection-engines#/topics/6014277

 

Hi Orixy,

 

Using low or mid SAPS engine oil able to reduce carbon deposit. Especially for Direct Injection Engine.

 

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=does+low+SAPS+engine+oil+reduce+carbon+deposit+on+intake+valves%3F

 

Moreover, if I am not wrong; the fuel in Singapore meets Euro VI standards.

 

Therefore, till today, I had not faced with any clogged intake valves that decreased engine performance symptoms for FA20DIT.

 

In fact, pleasantly surprised and glad. As initially, thought that I would be facing with intake valves carbon built up issues that will affect engine performance. But till date, it is really running fine without any form of cleaning.

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Hi Orixy,

 

Using low or mid SAPS engine oil able to reduce carbon deposit. Especially for Direct Injection Engine.

 

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=does+low+SAPS+engine+oil+reduce+carbon+deposit+on+intake+valves%3F

 

Moreover, if I am not wrong; the fuel in Singapore meets Euro VI standards.

 

Therefore, till today, I had not faced with any clogged intake valves that decreased engine performance symptoms for FA20DIT.

 

In fact, pleasantly surprised and glad. As initially, thought that I would be facing with intake valves carbon built up issues that will affect engine performance. But till date, it is really running fine without any form of cleaning.

You could be right. I'm also using low saps EO whenever possible. I guess we can't be entirely sure until someone in Sg posts pics of carbon clogged valves on their FA20DIT.
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You could be right. I'm also using low saps EO whenever possible. I guess we can't be entirely sure until someone in Sg posts pics of carbon clogged valves on their FA20DIT.

 

Hi Orixy,

 

Some had claimed that the carbon build-up is due to the EGR. But so far, I see that the EGR does more benefit then damage.

 

In fact, there will be carbon build-up when your engine is in operating conditions. Unless, perfect scenario of combustion.

 

Rather than to worry about carbon build-up, why not worry about LSPI happening?

 

https://www.oronite.com/about/news/low-speed-pre-ignition.aspx

 

https://www.infineuminsight.com/articles/passenger-cars/lspi-and-lubricant-auto-ignition/

 

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0016236118308858

 

This phenomenon had got many companies studying into it.

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there's always 2 sides to a coin. car owners will fret over such problems, but unless its potentially life threatening, car manufacturers will look the other way so they can make and sell more cars. simple real world logic

Hi Orixy,

 

Some had claimed that the carbon build-up is due to the EGR. But so far, I see that the EGR does more benefit then damage.

 

In fact, there will be carbon build-up when your engine is in operating conditions. Unless, perfect scenario of combustion.

 

Rather than to worry about carbon build-up, why not worry about LSPI happening?

 

https://www.oronite.com/about/news/low-speed-pre-ignition.aspx

 

https://www.infineuminsight.com/articles/passenger-cars/lspi-and-lubricant-auto-ignition/

 

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0016236118308858

 

This phenomenon had got many companies studying into it.

 

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there's always 2 sides to a coin. car owners will fret over such problems, but unless its potentially life threatening, car manufacturers will look the other way so they can make and sell more cars. simple real world logic

 

Haha... sounds quite evil of car manufacturers.

 

Anyway, so far in Sg; had not heard of intake carbon deposits or LSPI issues that affect engine performance.

 

Perhaps, it is detuned or limited to 177kW. Whereas, in US; their model generate higher power at 186 kW.

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You could be right. I'm also using low saps EO whenever possible. I guess we can't be entirely sure until someone in Sg posts pics of carbon clogged valves on their FA20DIT.

Hi Orixy,

 

Guess carbon built up is inevitable for combustion engine.. regardless DIT or higher saps EO.

 

It is just that DIT is more prone .. at least theoretically and my AOS look quite cool .. lol !

 

Cheers.

 

Richard

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Hi Orixy,

 

Some had claimed that the carbon build-up is due to the EGR. But so far, I see that the EGR does more benefit then damage.

 

In fact, there will be carbon build-up when your engine is in operating conditions. Unless, perfect scenario of combustion.

 

Rather than to worry about carbon build-up, why not worry about LSPI happening?

 

https://www.oronite.com/about/news/low-speed-pre-ignition.aspx

 

https://www.infineuminsight.com/articles/passenger-cars/lspi-and-lubricant-auto-ignition/

 

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0016236118308858

 

This phenomenon had got many companies studying into it.

LSPI at most times can be avoided by not full throttling during low rpm high gear. From those research links u shared, using a low Calcium EO also helps. Tks
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LSPI at most times can be avoided by not full throttling during low rpm high gear. From those research links u shared, using a low Calcium EO also helps. Tks

 

I am unsure if it can be really avoided by not full throttling during low rpm high gear. As usually driven in auto "D" mode and The ECU have control of all perimeters.

 

In fact, in a well tuned ECU; there should not be any "knocking".

 

It is not just using low Calcium engine oil, there are more:

 

1. Conversely, magnesium-based detergents do not seem to promote LSPI

2.Molybdenum compounds, for example, not only provide frictional benefits, but also have been shown to decrease LSPI when used at high levels.

3. Base oils also affect LSPI events. Both the quality of the base stock (i.e., Group II vs. Group III) and the viscosity can have secondary effects on LSPI.

4. both physical and kinetic properties of the fuel play a significant role in shaping its LSPI behavior.

 

<Extracted from the links provided earlier.>

 

Perhaps, EGR does help in a way:

 

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/276103703_The_Effect_of_EGR_on_Low-Speed_Pre-Ignition_in_Boosted_SI_Engines

 

Last, but not least; the FA20DIT engine in original condition is very well designed. Unless, there is a need to maximise the performance of the engine. Else, there is really very very little modification or no modification need to be done for it to perform well.

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Hi All, 

 

Believe I am finally done with any further trial on getting the most compliant and/or plush ride while alleviating the "floaty" or "rolling" stock ride which is especially challenging for the stiffer forester xt: .

 

RSR lower spring with cusco touring A with setting of lowly 6/6 out of 40/40 

 

Yes, I went ballistic and completed the changeover with full sti flexible front strut, front stabiliser, rear stabiliser and subframe links but frankly no idea how they had impacted the ride while they certainly did not made it worse ... it is quite an expensive collection of just bars and do not believe necessary as tested on kaki's ride with RSR and cusco touring A without them.

 

In this long almost 2 years process, I removed all previous cusco front strut, cusco front arb and cusco (also wrx's) rear arb and back to stock arbs ... cusco arb especially the popular rear one alleviates roll needed during 1% of my drive time but introduced harshness as well as more bumpy ride for the remaining 99% which I find unacceptable.  

 

I changed out the STI pink springs which is too jittery and taking small road bumps too obviously ... surprising RSR while stiffer I think (STI pink spring never did published their specification) was more inert to road bumps.  Yes, 25mm lowered instead of 15mm now but I am one who does not mind lowered ride and like the lowered look especially when roadholding certainly improved as compared to stock or pink springs since lowered centre of gravity.

 

However, the key is really adjustable cusco touring A which unfortunately is also not inexpensive... our forester ride can be then optimised to your butt sensitivity as compared to stock dampers.

 

Hope this helps and YYMV while acknowledging the generous owners who allowed me to understand various options and results, including bro rainman who braved the norm to had the rear arb totally removed which led me to address this typical use of stiffer arbs which is still a cost effective band aid but will not get me to my expected ride experience.

 

Cheers.


Richard

 

PS:  Just removed the front 26mm front cusco arb compared to 20mm I think for stock ones ... what a relief !

 

Edited by richard_crl032
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Hi All,

Believe I am finally done with any further trial on getting the most compliant and/or plush ride while alleviating the "floaty" or "rolling" stock ride which is especially challenging for the stiffer forester xt: .

RSR lower spring with cusco touring A with setting of lowly 6/6 out of 40/40

Yes, I went ballistic and completed the changeover with full sti flexible front strut, front stabiliser, rear stabiliser and subframe links but frankly no idea how they had impacted the ride while they certainly did not made it worse ... it is quite an expensive collection of just bars and do not believe necessary as tested on kaki's ride with RSR and cusco touring A without them.

In this long almost 2 years process, I removed all previous cusco front strut, cusco front arb and cusco (also wrx's) rear arb and back to stock arbs ... cusco arb especially the popular rear one alleviates roll needed during 1% of my drive time but introduced harshness as well as more bumpy ride for the remaining 99% which I find unacceptable.

I changed out the STI pink springs which is too jittery and taking small road bumps too obviously ... surprising RSR while stiffer I think (STI pink spring never did published their specification) was more inert to road bumps. Yes, 25mm lowered instead of 15mm now but I am one who does not mind lowered ride and like the lowered look especially when roadholding certainly improved as compared to stock or pink springs since lowered centre of gravity.

However, the key is really adjustable cusco touring A which unfortunately is also not inexpensive... our forester ride can be then optimised to your butt sensitivity as compared to stock dampers.

Hope this helps and YYMV while acknowledging the generous owners who allowed me to understand various options and results, including bro rainman who braved the norm to had the rear arb totally removed which led me to address this typical use of stiffer arbs which is still a cost effective band aid but will not get me to my expected ride experience.

Cheers.

 

Richard

PS: Just removed the front 26mm front cusco arb compared to 20mm I think for stock ones ... what a relief !

Congrats, Richard! Glad that you also like the RSR springs with Cusco Touring A dampers. I’m on similar setup but my springs are the titanium version. However, my damper settings are 30 clicks front and rear (40 clicks being stiffest) which I find to be a good balance between comfort and performance.

 

Also glad that you swapped back to stock front ARB. Was in the same situation: Cusco 26mm front and whiteline 22mm rear. Good handling but found it bumpy and unsettling over patchy roads. Currently on stock front ARB and rear STi ARB (20mm).

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Congrats, Richard! Glad that you also like the RSR springs with Cusco Touring A dampers. Iâm on similar setup but my springs are the titanium version. However, my damper settings are 30 clicks front and rear (40 clicks being stiffest) which I find to be a good balance between comfort and performance.

 

Also glad that you swapped back to stock front ARB. Was in the same situation: Cusco 26mm front and whiteline 22mm rear. Good handling but found it bumpy and unsettling over patchy roads. Currently on stock front ARB and rear STi ARB (20mm).

Hi James

 

Thanks ! Yes, it had been a long road and din realised you are having similar setup and this long journey too ..keke !

 

Read up a bit about the rsr titanium version but kaki was on non-titanium one which we tried with even removing rear arb totally ... did not want to take a risk. If known, I would have thick skinned again and ask to test drive yours with perhaps the titanium version instead .. hehe !

 

I had the rear wrx arb but passed it to my kaki as I just wanted the most compliant ride since lowered rsr suffice for my soft bum on roadholding .. hence my 1% vs 99% exaggeration but somewhat true.

 

We should meet up soon .. cheers.

 

Richard

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need to revive this topic on rim widths and tyres...

anyone here with 18x8 rims? what will be the profile of tyres that would be needed as similar replacement to the original 18x7? (in terms of diameter of cos...)

 

thanks in advance.... me gotta change tyres in a few mths time and now it's time to shop around.

wondering if Goodyear AS3 SUV already available here....

 

Hi Epsilon,

 

Perhaps you are already clear on what is rim size and offset are but I needed to read up here:

 

https://www.oponeo.co.uk/tyre-article/wheel-width-and-et-offset

 

Stock fxt's 18" is 7.0J offset 48 I believe and STI's 18" is 7.5J offset 48 ... I was fortunately to get my ProDrive gc-014i at 7.5J offset 38 I think and no trouble fitting big 6/4 KSports BBK. 

 

Think it is preferred 7.5J to stay like stock STI to avoid undue load on the axles and rubbing or even 8J but for my planned and current max 235mm tyres, it is fine.  For offset, 48 is a no no for limited choice and least clearance ... hence the mentioned limited Brembo bbk for STI 18 rims.

 

Another pair of this would be nice even though not cheap or about sgd4k+ if you can find them !!!  [bounce1]

 

https://www.sendico.com/yahoo/lot_j463048791.html

 

 

Cheers,

 

Richard

 

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need to revive this topic on rim widths and tyres...

anyone here with 18x8 rims? what will be the profile of tyres that would be needed as similar replacement to the original 18x7? (in terms of diameter of cos...)

 

thanks in advance.... me gotta change tyres in a few mths time and now it's time to shop around.

wondering if Goodyear AS3 SUV already available here....

I was using 18x8 rims. You can use 225/55 or 235/50. I’ve tried both and my preference is the latter as I find it gives better grip (maybe placebo), looks better (wider stance) and more importantly, a lot more choices for tyres.

 

Have you considered Goodyear F1A5? It’s available in 235/50 profile. Not many shops carries it currently. The only shop that I know carries it is Arrow tyres and the price is quite good

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Neutral Newbie

Considering getting a Subaru for my next ride. Any good SE to recommend? Can PM me the contact if you have one.

 

Thank you!

 

 

 

 

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need to revive this topic on rim widths and tyres...

anyone here with 18x8 rims? what will be the profile of tyres that would be needed as similar replacement to the original 18x7? (in terms of diameter of cos...)

 

thanks in advance.... me gotta change tyres in a few mths time and now it's time to shop around.

wondering if Goodyear AS3 SUV already available here....

I'm on 18x8 too. Running 225/55.

I was using 18x8 rims. You can use 225/55 or 235/50. Iâve tried both and my preference is the latter as I find it gives better grip (maybe placebo), looks better (wider stance) and more importantly, a lot more choices for tyres.

 

Have you considered Goodyear F1A5? Itâs available in 235/50 profile. Not many shops carries it currently. The only shop that I know carries it is Arrow tyres and the price is quite good

Any rubbing for 235/50? What's your offset btw?

 

Thinking of 235 for the next change but looking at 225/55, at full lock, its almost going to rub liao.

 

Another reason I'm a bit apprehensive is cuz my car is the NA, a bit worried about the acceleration with the wider tyres

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I'm on 18x8 too. Running 225/55.

Any rubbing for 235/50? What's your offset btw?

 

Thinking of 235 for the next change but looking at 225/55, at full lock, its almost going to rub liao.

 

Another reason I'm a bit apprehensive is cuz my car is the NA, a bit worried about the acceleration with the wider tyres

I’ve used rims 18x8 with +35 and +40 offset. Car lowered on RSR springs. Doesn’t rub with 235/50R18. I’ve tried 245/50R18 which rubs a little at full turn

 

Actually I feel the car pickup is slightly better with 235/50 compared to 225/55. Maybe placebo but I think it’s due to slightly smaller rolling diameter.

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