2015 Forester 2.0

[OnceInALifeTime]

1 hour ago, thefalcon said:

Dear Yippe,

Do you have photos and guide to help us on that? Do you DIY it or at the workshop?

Thanks in advance bro.

Check the tightness of the clamps. If unsure, would advise your to let a workshop look at it. As you do need proper brakes to stop in time.

Edited January 9, 2020 by OnceInALifeTime
Addtion: If unsure, would advise your to let a workshop look at it. As you do need proper brakes to stop in time.

[OnceInALifeTime]

10 hours ago, edmundhoyy said:

Happy New Year to everyone at this forum.

I'm new to this forum, though I've owned the Subaru FXT 2015 for close to 5 years now.  I sent car for 90k servicing package (mileage ard 78k) when the SA called to inform me of these following items with the estimated costs:

1. Sound coming from steering rack and loose steering wheel (est 3.3k with labour to change whole steering rack).
2. Weak battery (No ask price as I just change last year.  Will change on my own)
3. Worn out engine mounts (est  $100 with labour)
4. Hardened suspension, likely due to wear and tear of Absorbers (est $1k plus with labour)

Think I'll only pay for the engine mount since it's the cheapest of the 4 items.  Will need some advice from experience bros here on the following:

1. Is Cusco A setup good for ride quality?  Wifey and kids always say very bumpy at back and I can attest to this when going over humps.  Shout out to Richard for your generous sharing.  Learnt a lot.  Looking to swap out the stock for some aftermarkets.
2. Do I need to change the suspension mount when changing the suspension or it's included in the package to change suspension?
3. Any other things I can do to soften the ride quality for rear passengers?

I don't really like MI as they seem to be quoting me an arm and leg when I've done the following things with them as follows over the years:

1. Change bushing kits (Think Low Control Arm Broke or something.  Basically, front wheel keep stuttering when driving) - Paid $800 i think.
2. Air con condenser (died on me within 1st year and SA has cheek to tell me not covered).  Heng, I no go pay cox should be bumper to bumper for first year.  Oh ya, front light bulb also gone within first year.
3. Loss of engine power (MI still don't know what's wrong).  I can lose engine power like as though the engine wanna die out like that at times.

Sorry for the long post.  Will be appreciative of any info shared in improving ride quality. Haiz, really think Subaru quality very bad.  Previous car (Mitsubishi lancer - cheap cheap car) also don't give me so many problems.

Best Regards,
Edmund

Hi!

Just a curious question. When you first had your Forester, how was the ride feel?

[Yippe]

14 hours ago, thefalcon said:

Dear Yippe,

Do you have photos and guide to help us on that? Do you DIY it or at the workshop?

Thanks in advance bro.

Hi Sir, as above I did and its solved the issue, after remove hose spray with contact cleaner, then air dry, apply only at the (arrow inlet) replace back the clip and job done.

Baisei OnceInALifeTime using your pic. to do editing.

Engineer Yippe. 

Edited January 10, 2020 by Yippe
forgot to up load pic.

[Stratovarius]

23 hours ago, edmundhoyy said:

Happy New Year to everyone at this forum.

I'm new to this forum, though I've owned the Subaru FXT 2015 for close to 5 years now.  I sent car for 90k servicing package (mileage ard 78k) when the SA called to inform me of these following items with the estimated costs:

1. Sound coming from steering rack and loose steering wheel (est 3.3k with labour to change whole steering rack).
2. Weak battery (No ask price as I just change last year.  Will change on my own)
3. Worn out engine mounts (est  $100 with labour)
4. Hardened suspension, likely due to wear and tear of Absorbers (est $1k plus with labour)

Think I'll only pay for the engine mount since it's the cheapest of the 4 items.  Will need some advice from experience bros here on the following:

1. Is Cusco A setup good for ride quality?  Wifey and kids always say very bumpy at back and I can attest to this when going over humps.  Shout out to Richard for your generous sharing.  Learnt a lot.  Looking to swap out the stock for some aftermarkets.
2. Do I need to change the suspension mount when changing the suspension or it's included in the package to change suspension?
3. Any other things I can do to soften the ride quality for rear passengers?

I don't really like MI as they seem to be quoting me an arm and leg when I've done the following things with them as follows over the years:

1. Change bushing kits (Think Low Control Arm Broke or something.  Basically, front wheel keep stuttering when driving) - Paid $800 i think.
2. Air con condenser (died on me within 1st year and SA has cheek to tell me not covered).  Heng, I no go pay cox should be bumper to bumper for first year.  Oh ya, front light bulb also gone within first year.
3. Loss of engine power (MI still don't know what's wrong).  I can lose engine power like as though the engine wanna die out like that at times.

Sorry for the long post.  Will be appreciative of any info shared in improving ride quality. Haiz, really think Subaru quality very bad.  Previous car (Mitsubishi lancer - cheap cheap car) also don't give me so many problems.

Best Regards,
Edmund

For items 1 to 3, you might want to check with other subaru specialist workshop outside to check. 

As for the coilover, i dont have that on my ride so no comments. But in general, if you are looking at slamming down the SUV, you need additional camber kits. Also, if the top rubber mounts are harden/flatten, you need to change that out as well. Since all aftermarket coilovers comes with adjustable damping, you can play around with that it make the rear less bumpy. 

For loss of engine power, i heard need tuning to resolve. Some told me this problem usually comes in after 60k mark and rev less than 2k. Since yours is a FXT, go tune! you get more power and also, resolve the power loss issue. 😉

MI is well known for chopping carrot. to change OEM bushing outside is around half what MI quoted. Since your ride is reaching 5 years, i think it will be better to go look other workshops for your maintenance needs.

[richard_crl032]

On 1/9/2020 at 1:33 PM, edmundhoyy said:

Happy New Year to everyone at this forum.

I'm new to this forum, though I've owned the Subaru FXT 2015 for close to 5 years now.  I sent car for 90k servicing package (mileage ard 78k) when the SA called to inform me of these following items with the estimated costs:

1. Sound coming from steering rack and loose steering wheel (est 3.3k with labour to change whole steering rack).
2. Weak battery (No ask price as I just change last year.  Will change on my own)
3. Worn out engine mounts (est  $100 with labour)
4. Hardened suspension, likely due to wear and tear of Absorbers (est $1k plus with labour)

Think I'll only pay for the engine mount since it's the cheapest of the 4 items.  Will need some advice from experience bros here on the following:

1. Is Cusco A setup good for ride quality?  Wifey and kids always say very bumpy at back and I can attest to this when going over humps.  Shout out to Richard for your generous sharing.  Learnt a lot.  Looking to swap out the stock for some aftermarkets.
2. Do I need to change the suspension mount when changing the suspension or it's included in the package to change suspension?
3. Any other things I can do to soften the ride quality for rear passengers?

I don't really like MI as they seem to be quoting me an arm and leg when I've done the following things with them as follows over the years:

1. Change bushing kits (Think Low Control Arm Broke or something.  Basically, front wheel keep stuttering when driving) - Paid $800 i think.
2. Air con condenser (died on me within 1st year and SA has cheek to tell me not covered).  Heng, I no go pay cox should be bumper to bumper for first year.  Oh ya, front light bulb also gone within first year.
3. Loss of engine power (MI still don't know what's wrong).  I can lose engine power like as though the engine wanna die out like that at times.

Sorry for the long post.  Will be appreciative of any info shared in improving ride quality. Haiz, really think Subaru quality very bad.  Previous car (Mitsubishi lancer - cheap cheap car) also don't give me so many problems.

Best Regards,
Edmund

Hi Edmund,

Sorry to hear of various issues at close to 5 yrs albeit only 78k km and seems that you are not happy with yours ... mine just passed 2 yrs and already 56k km.

- Indeed a big concern on faulty steering which I certainly dread but not commonly reported though and fingercrossed 😞

- Battery management of our forester should be excellent from the tiny amperage 30+ Ah one used but I cannot say as I changed out from early days to  twice oversized Varta Silver AGM one with 70Ah but it is better than battery killing estima with autodoors that I scrapped after 10 yrs ... short drive especially at night with aircon blasting kills car batteries 

- 78k km does seems low for engine mount change but also it can harden in 5  yrs and not unexpected.  Same of suspension needing mentioned change due to hardening and not typically >100k km live of dampers unless driven hard.

Onto ride compliance, it is highly subjective but I can vouch that from the learning from other forester xt owners, it is one of the key let-down with common remark of bounciness and harsh/bumpy and I think it is because we bought an excellent semi off-road SUV popular in USA and Australia with more rugged road and terrain but not a comfy SUV like the equitable Harrier for open hwy or city street ... please note that fna owner typically have less complaint due to softer stock suspension, without subframe and thicker profile/narrower tyres while fxt's designed harder suspension is best suited for spirited driving from its higher torque and power.

- On cusco touring A, I strongly recommend them simply because it is the only adjustable dampers to best matches whatever springs you are using while adjustable coilover despite whatever workshop mechanics advise, it is just harder aka harsher/bumpy

- 5  yrs old mount should be replaced since similarly possibly hardened and it is not too expensive as compared to the cost of dampers and/or springs. 

• On softening the ride and I believe you are totally stock, removing the stock rear ARB improves compliance significantly but there is the concerns on insurance coverage and legality if in accidents  and you will have more roll for obvious reason especially if you take fast corners but it was fine on typical highway driving when I tried 2 fxt owners' ride
• I eventually removed my cusco ARB, WRX STI and now on stock one while roll is managed somewhat by harder RSR spring and cusco touring A dampers matched to my best ability ... this to me is a more expensive but more complete solution to ride compliance to address roll and bounciness against the common use of thicker ARBs which inadvertently intro harshness on poor quality road but at a low cost
• STI Flexible subframe helps but expensive or even remove stock subframe to be like FNA without one which alleviate concern on insurance and legality a bit. 
• You can also stay with thicker profile of 55 or even 60 like the fna and do try to experiment with different tyre pressure .. defy my understanding initially but having higher tyre pressures actually helped on ride compliance in my fxt and I explain now that harder tyres are now working the springs and dampers i.e. matched while lower pressure of tyres had the tyres working hard but both bumpy and harsh

Cheers,

Richard

 

PS:  Not sure if you had tried but most welcomed to pm me and try out the cusco touring A in my fxt if not already do so

 

[edmundhoyy]

On 1/10/2020 at 12:33 AM, OnceInALifeTime said:

Hi!

Just a curious question. When you first had your Forester, how was the ride feel?

Hi, 

First year, the car ride was good.  No complaints from rear passengers.  

2nd year, wifey said the ride was harsh.  Her butt will leave the rear seat when I go over those yellow / black humps.  I brake those humps but will slowly let it roll after the front wheel go over them.  I tried sitting at back and indeed, my butt left the seat if driver don't brake for rear wheels to clear. Seem like absorbers not doing what it was intended to. 

I'm loving the Forester still cox I seldom sit at the back and the 4WD saved my butt a few times on rainy roads.  (Note: Sheares Bridge during heavy downpour towards MBS is treacherous - Hydroplaning).

[edmundhoyy]

22 hours ago, richard_crl032 said:

Hi Edmund,

Sorry to hear of various issues at close to 5 yrs albeit only 78k km and seems that you are not happy with yours ... mine just passed 2 yrs and already 56k km.

- Indeed a big concern on faulty steering which I certainly dread but not commonly reported though and fingercrossed 😞

- Battery management of our forester should be excellent from the tiny amperage 30+ Ah one used but I cannot say as I changed out from early days to  twice oversized Varta Silver AGM one with 70Ah but it is better than battery killing estima with autodoors that I scrapped after 10 yrs ... short drive especially at night with aircon blasting kills car batteries 

- 78k km does seems low for engine mount change but also it can harden in 5  yrs and not unexpected.  Same of suspension needing mentioned change due to hardening and not typically >100k km live of dampers unless driven hard.

Onto ride compliance, it is highly subjective but I can vouch that from the learning from other forester xt owners, it is one of the key let-down with common remark of bounciness and harsh/bumpy and I think it is because we bought an excellent semi off-road SUV popular in USA and Australia with more rugged road and terrain but not a comfy SUV like the equitable Harrier for open hwy or city street ... please note that fna owner typically have less complaint due to softer stock suspension, without subframe and thicker profile/narrower tyres while fxt's designed harder suspension is best suited for spirited driving from its higher torque and power.

- On cusco touring A, I strongly recommend them simply because it is the only adjustable dampers to best matches whatever springs you are using while adjustable coilover despite whatever workshop mechanics advise, it is just harder aka harsher/bumpy

- 5  yrs old mount should be replaced since similarly possibly hardened and it is not too expensive as compared to the cost of dampers and/or springs. 

• On softening the ride and I believe you are totally stock, removing the stock rear ARB improves compliance significantly but there is the concerns on insurance coverage and legality if in accidents  and you will have more roll for obvious reason especially if you take fast corners but it was fine on typical highway driving when I tried 2 fxt owners' ride
• I eventually removed my cusco ARB, WRX STI and now on stock one while roll is managed somewhat by harder RSR spring and cusco touring A dampers matched to my best ability ... this to me is a more expensive but more complete solution to ride compliance to address roll and bounciness against the common use of thicker ARBs which inadvertently intro harshness on poor quality road but at a low cost
• STI Flexible subframe helps but expensive or even remove stock subframe to be like FNA without one which alleviate concern on insurance and legality a bit. 
• You can also stay with thicker profile of 55 or even 60 like the fna and do try to experiment with different tyre pressure .. defy my understanding initially but having higher tyre pressures actually helped on ride compliance in my fxt and I explain now that harder tyres are now working the springs and dampers i.e. matched while lower pressure of tyres had the tyres working hard but both bumpy and harsh

Cheers,

Richard

 

PS:  Not sure if you had tried but most welcomed to pm me and try out the cusco touring A in my fxt if not already do so

 

Hi Richard, 

I'm happy with the vehicle itself.  Just not happy that MI always tell me got this problem got that problem everytime I go back to them for servicing.  Everytime it's 1k and the latest one, 4k plus.  Every single time, they will tell me this spoil that spoil.  -_-"

I changed the engine mount with MI since the price differential compared to outside workshop is max $30 to $50 so not much difference.  

Yes, I'm on totally stock and since coming to 5 year mark, thinking of upgrading the suspension components for rear passengers comfort.  I was quoted the following:

1. Cusco Touring A ($1,150 before GST)
2. E-Con2 ($540 before GST)

Above prices includes labour/installation and on indent basis.  Is this price range reasonable?  Was from the local authorised retailer from Cusco Japan website. 

[edmundhoyy]

On 1/10/2020 at 1:22 PM, Stratovarius said:

For items 1 to 3, you might want to check with other subaru specialist workshop outside to check. 

As for the coilover, i dont have that on my ride so no comments. But in general, if you are looking at slamming down the SUV, you need additional camber kits. Also, if the top rubber mounts are harden/flatten, you need to change that out as well. Since all aftermarket coilovers comes with adjustable damping, you can play around with that it make the rear less bumpy. 

For loss of engine power, i heard need tuning to resolve. Some told me this problem usually comes in after 60k mark and rev less than 2k. Since yours is a FXT, go tune! you get more power and also, resolve the power loss issue. 😉

MI is well known for chopping carrot. to change OEM bushing outside is around half what MI quoted. Since your ride is reaching 5 years, i think it will be better to go look other workshops for your maintenance needs.

Hi Statovarius,

Don't think I'll be going for slam down option.  Love the height clearance.  😃

With regards for the engine tuning, who / which workshop would you recommend?  I read online that COBB tuning kit is very popular in USA but I'm not sure whether the mapping matches our engines in Singapore.  Anyone had experience using COBB Accessport for tuning?

As far as possible, prefer to stay stock where possible. 

[richard_crl032]

15 hours ago, edmundhoyy said:

Hi Richard, 

I'm happy with the vehicle itself.  Just not happy that MI always tell me got this problem got that problem everytime I go back to them for servicing.  Everytime it's 1k and the latest one, 4k plus.  Every single time, they will tell me this spoil that spoil.  -_-"

I changed the engine mount with MI since the price differential compared to outside workshop is max $30 to $50 so not much difference.  

Yes, I'm on totally stock and since coming to 5 year mark, thinking of upgrading the suspension components for rear passengers comfort.  I was quoted the following:

1. Cusco Touring A ($1,150 before GST)
2. E-Con2 ($540 before GST)

Above prices includes labour/installation and on indent basis.  Is this price range reasonable?  Was from the local authorised retailer from Cusco Japan website. 

Hi Edmund,

Price is fine.

Cheers.

Richard

[gremlings]

On 1/11/2020 at 4:06 PM, edmundhoyy said:

Hi Richard, 

I'm happy with the vehicle itself.  Just not happy that MI always tell me got this problem got that problem everytime I go back to them for servicing.  Everytime it's 1k and the latest one, 4k plus.  Every single time, they will tell me this spoil that spoil.  -_-"

I changed the engine mount with MI since the price differential compared to outside workshop is max $30 to $50 so not much difference.  

Yes, I'm on totally stock and since coming to 5 year mark, thinking of upgrading the suspension components for rear passengers comfort.  I was quoted the following:

1. Cusco Touring A ($1,150 before GST)
2. E-Con2 ($540 before GST)

Above prices includes labour/installation and on indent basis.  Is this price range reasonable?  Was from the local authorised retailer from Cusco Japan website. 

Hello, where are you getting this price for the Cusco Touring As from? Seems reasonable

[OnceInALifeTime]

On 1/11/2020 at 10:03 AM, thefalcon said:

Thank you bro OnceInALifeTime and Bro Yippe.

No worries! Stay safe!

[OnceInALifeTime]

On 1/11/2020 at 4:01 PM, edmundhoyy said:

Hi, 

First year, the car ride was good.  No complaints from rear passengers.  

2nd year, wifey said the ride was harsh.  Her butt will leave the rear seat when I go over those yellow / black humps.  I brake those humps but will slowly let it roll after the front wheel go over them.  I tried sitting at back and indeed, my butt left the seat if driver don't brake for rear wheels to clear. Seem like absorbers not doing what it was intended to. 

I'm loving the Forester still cox I seldom sit at the back and the 4WD saved my butt a few times on rainy roads.  (Note: Sheares Bridge during heavy downpour towards MBS is treacherous - Hydroplaning).

Hi!

One thing that I had noticed. The wheel base of Forester is rather short in comparison to some sedans. Not to mention that it is riding higher too.

If you really think that it is shock absorber's issue, why not try these:

http://www.kybweb.com/en/products/street/newsr/

Else, maybe slow down when approaching humps? As the Forester seems quite good in approaching humps at higher speed than sedans.

[Stratovarius]

On 1/11/2020 at 4:10 PM, edmundhoyy said:

Hi Statovarius,

Don't think I'll be going for slam down option.  Love the height clearance.  😃

With regards for the engine tuning, who / which workshop would you recommend?  I read online that COBB tuning kit is very popular in USA but I'm not sure whether the mapping matches our engines in Singapore.  Anyone had experience using COBB Accessport for tuning?

As far as possible, prefer to stay stock where possible. 

For tuning, you can try advance tuned. They can do stock ECU tuning and did quite a few FNA and FXT. if you not happy, they can revert to stock settings. Alternatively you can check with BKS. Stage 1 tuning should be fine, just don't increase boost limit to 1.5. 🤣

[shutterbox]

Has anyone installed a Air Oil Seperator, or a catch can in their foresters here?

Generally, either of these aims to reduce carbon accumulation at intake valves for all kinds of direct injection engines right?

[richard_crl032]

On 1/19/2020 at 11:33 AM, shutterbox said:

Has anyone installed a Air Oil Seperator, or a catch can in their foresters here?

Generally, either of these aims to reduce carbon accumulation at intake valves for all kinds of direct injection engines right?

Hi Shutterbox,

Quite a few of us bought the IAG AOS and had it installed by Ah Keong at BKD Woodsland .. professionally and stock looking which is why I highly recommend him.

I had all the cable ties replaced by locally available Orbit worm ring clamps as added security to last the life of the vehicle.

Cheers.

Richard

 

Edited January 21, 2020 by richard_crl032

[shutterbox]

4 hours ago, richard_crl032 said:

Hi Shutterbox,

Quite a few of us bought the IAG AOS and had it installed by Ah Keong at BKD Woodsland .. professionally and stock looking which is why I highly recommend him.

I had all the cable ties replaced by locally available Orbit worm ring clamps as added security to last the life of the vehicle.

Cheers.

Richard

 

thank you richard.

roughly what's the cost of this set up done with BKD?

by the way I did a search for BKD and it doesnt point me to the workshop's contact

[Jamesgetz]

1 hour ago, shutterbox said:

thank you richard.

roughly what's the cost of this set up done with BKD?

by the way I did a search for BKD and it doesnt point me to the workshop's contact

Typo.  He meant to type BKS

Address in the website:
http://www.bksmotorworks.com/about.html

[richard_crl032]

8 hours ago, richard_crl032 said:

Hi Shutterbox,

Quite a few of us bought the IAG AOS and had it installed by Ah Keong at BKD Woodsland .. professionally and stock looking which is why I highly recommend him.

I had all the cable ties replaced by locally available Orbit worm ring clamps as added security to last the life of the vehicle.

Cheers.

Richard

Hi Shutterbox, 

Just to add, you can search carousell for DM Woodlands' offer on twin catch cans setup being offered but I no longer wish to worry of overflowing and do look for baffled ones which are more effective to getting oil vapor with the promoted condensation ... do not believe DM's are:

<<https://sg.carousell.com/p/subaru-forester-sj-wrx-dual-oil-catch-tank-setup-113809811/>>

BTW, IAG AOS needs to connect to the coolant reservoir as it has coolant running around it for best condensation and hence most effective imho on alleviating this concern.

Cheers,

Richard

Edited January 21, 2020 by richard_crl032