2015 Forester 2.0

[richard_crl032]

3 hours ago, Jamesgetz said:

Typo.  He meant to type BKS

Address in the website:
http://www.bksmotorworks.com/about.html

 

Hi James,

Kamsiah for the correction.  

Aside to Shutterbox,  Just checked and it cost me USD480, including international priority shipping and gst, from ebay seller in Mar 2018 as I missed the MO back in end 2017 and installation was probably around SGD300 which is fine as it is quite involving but Ah Keong nailed it as seen and ZERO issue till date. 🙂  Cheers,

Cheers,

Richard

[shutterbox]

8 hours ago, Jamesgetz said:

Typo.  He meant to type BKS

Address in the website:
http://www.bksmotorworks.com/about.html

 

4 hours ago, richard_crl032 said:

 

Hi James,

Kamsiah for the correction.  

Aside to Shutterbox,  Just checked and it cost me USD480, including international priority shipping and gst, from ebay seller in Mar 2018 as I missed the MO back in end 2017 and installation was probably around SGD300 which is fine as it is quite involving but Ah Keong nailed it as seen and ZERO issue till date. 🙂  Cheers,

Cheers,

Richard

thanks guys for your input.

[Evilernie]

Hi folks, any recommendation on those floor liners for our cabin?

[PPeripheraL]

Wow, it’s been so long since I was last here asking about the first 1k servicing more than 2 years back. 😂

 

Anyway, fast forward 2.5 years later and reading through more than 200 pages, want to look for advice on how to improve the ride - in terms of the “floating” feeling, bounciness and body roll. Of course this question is indirectly directed at richard 🤭 with all of his experience and trials. Or of course anyone else willing to advice or help as well.

Perhaps, can list on the things to change first based on priority and cost to effectiveness ratio.

 

TIA! 

[Yippe]

22 hours ago, PPeripheraL said:

Wow, it’s been so long since I was last here asking about the first 1k servicing more than 2 years back. 😂

 

Anyway, fast forward 2.5 years later and reading through more than 200 pages, want to look for advice on how to improve the ride - in terms of the “floating” feeling, bounciness and body roll. Of course this question is indirectly directed at richard 🤭 with all of his experience and trials. Or of course anyone else willing to advice or help as well.

Perhaps, can list on the things to change first based on priority and cost to effectiveness ratio.

 

TIA! 

Joe, I though floating drive is showing wheels at Calibrated alignment ( mine after realignment feel floating) previous slide lead to LEFT on straight roll. ( I think most Forester has tht issue) dun shame me, tht's happen to mine.

Was yr NA?, i would recommend to replace REAR ANTI ROLL BAR (D20) at 80 buck before GST. hope this help.

Happy Driving. 

mine alrdy install 2 mths aft delivery. 

[richard_crl032]

On 2/27/2020 at 6:14 PM, PPeripheraL said:

Wow, it’s been so long since I was last here asking about the first 1k servicing more than 2 years back. 😂

 

Anyway, fast forward 2.5 years later and reading through more than 200 pages, want to look for advice on how to improve the ride - in terms of the “floating” feeling, bounciness and body roll. Of course this question is indirectly directed at richard 🤭 with all of his experience and trials. Or of course anyone else willing to advice or help as well.

Perhaps, can list on the things to change first based on priority and cost to effectiveness ratio.

 

TIA! 

Hi P,

Welcome back ... had been a bit quiet here with many kakis having sold or scrapped their forester .. keke !

Firstly, pls dun under estimate the contribution of tyre pressure and do try out various ... it is free.

Next I would say is that there is (1) more costly but surely more effective from >> sgd 2k and also (2) more cost effective ones from <500 ... but there is limitation of what we can do since our foresters are already as designed and expectation need to be managed .. will not be an Audi A6 sedan or even a Merc suv like glc-250 that I am familiar with.

(1) Aftermkt Springs and dampers (only adjustable one pls !)

a. Pink .. most comfortable but jittery

b. RSR .. stable but bad road surface will be uncomfortable

c. Swift .. in storeroom and had not tried cos profile 55 already rubbing with rsr and even lower swift need change back to profile 50 .. tba but hopeful cos stiffness between a. and b.

d. Adjustable dampers always cos individual preference and driving conditions  .. incabin control is a must for me. Examples like cusco touring A or Tein Endura with bump control .. had not tried the latter and perhaps someday

(2) Mainly on rear stabilization bar aka rsb .. in increasing effective but increasing harshness .. wrx sti, cusco and other hardcore ones. I do recommend cusco front stability bar as handling improves 

Other noteworthy mod will be magic collars .. it does add a bit of harshness overall but ride is more grounded ... I kept it.

Hope this helps and that's it ...all I learnt in the last 2 years owning my fxt.

Cheers.

Richard

PS: if you proceed with 1), it will be even more important to try out tyre pressure cos recommended no longer applies. The tyre is part of the suspension system and also need to be firm enuff to ensure dampers and springs are working and not the tyres only

[PPeripheraL]

9 hours ago, richard_crl032 said:

Hi P,

Welcome back ... had been a bit quiet here with many kakis having sold or scrapped their forester .. keke !

Firstly, pls dun under estimate the contribution of tyre pressure and do try out various ... it is free.

Next I would say is that there is (1) more costly but surely more effective from >> sgd 2k and also (2) more cost effective ones from <500 ... but there is limitation of what we can do since our foresters are already as designed and expectation need to be managed .. will not be an Audi A6 sedan or even a Merc suv like glc-250 that I am familiar with.

(1) Aftermkt Springs and dampers (only adjustable one pls !)

a. Pink .. most comfortable but jittery

b. RSR .. stable but bad road surface will be uncomfortable

c. Swift .. in storeroom and had not tried cos profile 55 already rubbing with rsr and even lower swift need change back to profile 50 .. tba but hopeful cos stiffness between a. and b.

d. Adjustable dampers always cos individual preference and driving conditions  .. incabin control is a must for me. Examples like cusco touring A or Tein Endura with bump control .. had not tried the latter and perhaps someday

(2) Mainly on rear stabilization bar aka rsb .. in increasing effective but increasing harshness .. wrx sti, cusco and other hardcore ones. I do recommend cusco front stability bar as handling improves 

Other noteworthy mod will be magic collars .. it does add a bit of harshness overall but ride is more grounded ... I kept it.

Hope this helps and that's it ...all I learnt in the last 2 years owning my fxt.

Cheers.

Richard

PS: if you proceed with 1), it will be even more important to try out tyre pressure cos recommended no longer applies. The tyre is part of the suspension system and also need to be firm enuff to ensure dampers and springs are working and not the tyres only

Hi Richard,

Thanks for the prompt reply! Actually been looking around the market, but the trade in price of fxt under current market conditions not enticing especially since there are so little options around this performance at similar pricing.

 

I've changed to alenza about 6 months back, so far i think its decent and about 240 usually. I didn't really play/adjust around to see which pressure is optimal but i guess i can try from time to time.

 

Thanks for the suggestions! Leaning towards starting with small changes instead of diving in straight to springs/dampers/cambers etc. So likely will be magic collars (any rigid collars workshop for fxt to recommend?). I'm not familiar with these mods - but you mentioned rsb, are they different from arb effectively? Will front + rear arb be better, or just the rear?

 

Also, I vaguely recall there was some short discussions on brake pads but I seem to have lost the page and there doesn't seem to a search function within a thread? Which brake pads will you recommend since I have no intention of changing to a bkk as I will need to change rims as well.

Thanks again for the advice Richard!

On 2/28/2020 at 4:42 PM, Yippe said:

Joe, I though floating drive is showing wheels at Calibrated alignment ( mine after realignment feel floating) previous slide lead to LEFT on straight roll. ( I think most Forester has tht issue) dun shame me, tht's happen to mine.

Was yr NA?, i would recommend to replace REAR ANTI ROLL BAR (D20) at 80 buck before GST. hope this help.

Happy Driving. 

mine alrdy install 2 mths aft delivery. 

Hi Yippe,

 

From my memory, it was always been a floating drive. I changed to alenza about 6 months back (incl realignment) but there doesn't seem to be a change?

 

Mine's a fxt. Your recommendation of the rear arb - is it the same as richard's suggestion of the rsb? Which brand do you recommend? I seem to recall MI sells the sti version of arb but unsure if its front or rear?

 

Thanks for your suggestion!

[Yippe]

57 minutes ago, PPeripheraL said:

Hi Richard,

Thanks for the prompt reply! Actually been looking around the market, but the trade in price of fxt under current market conditions not enticing especially since there are so little options around this performance at similar pricing.

 

I've changed to alenza about 6 months back, so far i think its decent and about 240 usually. I didn't really play/adjust around to see which pressure is optimal but i guess i can try from time to time.

 

Thanks for the suggestions! Leaning towards starting with small changes instead of diving in straight to springs/dampers/cambers etc. So likely will be magic collars (any rigid collars workshop for fxt to recommend?). I'm not familiar with these mods - but you mentioned rsb, are they different from arb effectively? Will front + rear arb be better, or just the rear?

 

Also, I vaguely recall there was some short discussions on brake pads but I seem to have lost the page and there doesn't seem to a search function within a thread? Which brake pads will you recommend since I have no intention of changing to a bkk as I will need to change rims as well.

Thanks again for the advice Richard!

Hi Yippe,

 

From my memory, it was always been a floating drive. I changed to alenza about 6 months back (incl realignment) but there doesn't seem to be a change?

 

Mine's a fxt. Your recommendation of the rear arb - is it the same as richard's suggestion of the rsb? Which brand do you recommend? I seem to recall MI sells the sti version of arb but unsure if its front or rear?

 

Thanks for your suggestion!

Mine ARB was install by MI, original D 16, thus replace to D 20. ( I think FXT is using this D 20). 

Other upgraded was steel braided brake lines with STI brake pads (fr MI) and Cusco front stability bar all from ASEA (strongly recommend).

as of the floating drive, suspect wheels TOE OUT, visit workshop likely they would install camber (off-set bush) necessaries. my 2cent.

Enjoy your ride.

[richard_crl032]

On 2/29/2020 at 11:00 PM, PPeripheraL said:

Hi Richard,

Thanks for the prompt reply! Actually been looking around the market, but the trade in price of fxt under current market conditions not enticing especially since there are so little options around this performance at similar pricing.

 

I've changed to alenza about 6 months back, so far i think its decent and about 240 usually. I didn't really play/adjust around to see which pressure is optimal but i guess i can try from time to time.

 

Thanks for the suggestions! Leaning towards starting with small changes instead of diving in straight to springs/dampers/cambers etc. So likely will be magic collars (any rigid collars workshop for fxt to recommend?). I'm not familiar with these mods - but you mentioned rsb, are they different from arb effectively? Will front + rear arb be better, or just the rear?

 

Also, I vaguely recall there was some short discussions on brake pads but I seem to have lost the page and there doesn't seem to a search function within a thread? Which brake pads will you recommend since I have no intention of changing to a bkk as I will need to change rims as well.

Thanks again for the advice Richard!

Hi PP,

I fitted my magic collar at AMK Autopoint c/o Steven:

https://sg.carousell.com/p/honda-civic-fd2r-magic-collar-kit-223978005?t-id=KUd1zIHy_K_1583139274681&t-referrer_browse_type=categories&t-referrer_category_id=109&t-referrer_request_id=mXI5cXOOqOrIkB0U&t-referrer_sort_by=popular&t-tap_index=15

Sorry for the confusion but my mentioned rsb (rear stabilizer bar) should have been replaced by rear arb (anti roll bar)  instead since there are also other cusco stabilizer bars for the rear ... avoid these other bars as they make your ride more harsh and for hardcore tracking perhaps.

Front arb and rear arb together is better as I like the handling .. choose between the usual additional front strut bar and this front arb upgrade and I will spend my $ on front arb upgrade as it has more obvious positive effects.

Unfortunately, I cannot help on pad replacement as I knew that I wanted BBK in view of the power of fxt and went straight for them ... my personal experience with my 2007-2017 estima with TRD sport pads, highly praised goodridge SSBH (brake hose) and even drilled/slotted rotors are bested by then Taiwanese JBT big 4 BBK front only.  

Cheers.

Richard

 

[OnceInALifeTime]

On 2/27/2020 at 6:14 PM, PPeripheraL said:

Wow, it’s been so long since I was last here asking about the first 1k servicing more than 2 years back. 😂

 

Anyway, fast forward 2.5 years later and reading through more than 200 pages, want to look for advice on how to improve the ride - in terms of the “floating” feeling, bounciness and body roll. Of course this question is indirectly directed at richard 🤭 with all of his experience and trials. Or of course anyone else willing to advice or help as well.

Perhaps, can list on the things to change first based on priority and cost to effectiveness ratio.

 

TIA! 

HI!

Have you tried STi Chassis enhancements?

https://www.sti.jp/en/parts/forester_sj/chassis/

[Evilernie]

On 3/3/2020 at 10:29 AM, OnceInALifeTime said:

HI!

Have you tried STi Chassis enhancements?

https://www.sti.jp/en/parts/forester_sj/chassis/

I had installed the stiffener bar from& back, it does help in more stabilise the driving experience  when on uneven road however I personally felt is not good enough given that our stock suspension. More so when you are cornering or negotiate a bend at slightly higher speed it somehow doesn't give me the assurance of a firm the grip as compared to a lowered vehicle like a normal sedan. 

[OnceInALifeTime]

On 3/4/2020 at 11:42 PM, Evilernie said:

I had installed the stiffener bar from& back, it does help in more stabilise the driving experience  when on uneven road however I personally felt is not good enough given that our stock suspension. More so when you are cornering or negotiate a bend at slightly higher speed it somehow doesn't give me the assurance of a firm the grip as compared to a lowered vehicle like a normal sedan. 

Question:

1. What is the slightly higher speed you are expecting?

2. What tyres are you using? Do they screech when you are cornering or negotiating a bend at the speed that you are taking?

3. Do you know that Forester SJG does have VDCS?

https://www.subaru.ca/WebPage.aspx?WebPageID=20179

Comments:

I guessed that for you to have the level of assurance; you might want to lower your forester to the similar ground clearance of a WRX. Which would be 4.9 in. (Forester stock is 8.7 in.)

My own experience; the SJG is really an unexpected nice vehicle to drive. It does require good driving knowledge and experience to push it to the limits. Where I do still find lacking in me.

But in the rather stock form; its really terrific. I had ever drove speed up and over 200+km/h, negotiating bends in approximately 90+ km/h, jammed brakes to avoid collision (it fish-tailed, straighten and managed to stop in time!), drove through huge puddle of water at approximately 120+km/h (skidded, recover perfectly and almost automatically! VDCS at work).

Think if it, it still gets me the adrenaline. Purposely try again and again? Nope. But when the situation arises and conditions there. It will just happens.

[richard_crl032]

On 3/15/2020 at 3:39 PM, thefalcon said:

Should I still go back MI for servicing ?

My Millage: 63504KM .

Aug 2020 will be 4th year.

I had called and clarified, my ride only Engine and Gear box is still under warranty till 100,000KM or 5th year other items is out of warranty.

As now I'm doing 60,000KM service. the service list is very long Package B + F + A, but I wonder they really do check everything.

Do we really need to change the Brake Fluid every 20K??

Any feedback / suggestion?

Thank you in advance.

Hi thefalcon,

I do go back to MI for my 2017 Oct fxt but I did signed on first svc package till 50k and took advantage of last year's deal also which bring svc package till 100k km nicely.

On the long list, I can only say they will try with the established checklist which can the same or better than most if not many of outside workshop .. not worse.

If I had modded engine related ones e.g. tuned etc, I would not bother to go back to MI since key objective for me to signed svc package till 100k is to include warranty of engine and cvt if bigger shits happen for at least some due consideration.

Perhaps this continued support to MI svc center will also help alleviate the svc cost else nobody does so, MI simply have to charge more since is needed for new cars at worst case unless cars sold is without even initial 5 anf 10k svc .. lol !

No knowledge on change of brake fluid every 20k km but check and top up expected. Faintly remember change on at 40km or more svc interval but I also changed to bbk earlier and had to replace the brake fluid.

Btw, I am top up sgd78 for atypical but smooth motul 300v and svc every 7--8k km and use BKS or BMS when it does not coincide within a few k of the 10km interval of the svc package as well as change cvt oil at 40k km ahead of the 90 or 100k under this svc package.

Cheers.

Richard

[Duatau]

On 6/9/2018 at 7:47 PM, OnceInALifeTime said:

 

 

For those that bought the autolock from taobao. May I check where does the connector for the female obd goes to? Previous post took a picture but i cant make out where this is. Appreciate the help

 

[OnceInALifeTime]

On 3/18/2020 at 1:18 PM, Duatau said:

For those that bought the autolock from taobao. May I check where does the connector for the female obd goes to? Previous post took a picture but i cant make out where this is. Appreciate the help

 

The location of the picture is taken; after removing the plastic covers behind your steering wheel.

[OnceInALifeTime]

On 3/15/2020 at 3:39 PM, thefalcon said:

Should I still go back MI for servicing ?

My Millage: 63504KM .

Aug 2020 will be 4th year.

I had called and clarified, my ride only Engine and Gear box is still under warranty till 100,000KM or 5th year other items is out of warranty.

As now I'm doing 60,000KM service. the service list is very long Package B + F + A, but I wonder they really do check everything.

Do we really need to change the Brake Fluid every 20K??

Any feedback / suggestion?

Thank you in advance.

What brake fluid are you using?

Do you know that brake fluid are hydroscopic?

Even if it is DOT 4, there are type that are low viscosity DOT 4.

It will depends alot on your driving needs to select the type of DOT4 brake fluid.

MI recommendation of 20,000 km is based on annual/yearly change. Which is quite fine.

As due to the hydroscopic nature of the fluid, when water moisture is in the brake system and not replaced for period of time. Rust will set in.

Else, you can consider to replace every 24,000 or 25,000 km.

Personally, I will replace every 25,000 km with DOT 4 fluid with higher wet/dry boiling temperature than standard DOT4 fluid.

 

 

 

 

 

[OnceInALifeTime]

6 hours ago, thefalcon said:

Bro OnceInALifeTime,

Thank you so much for the detail explanation. 😊

Actually, you do have a choice of workshops to perform the service and not limited to MI. But you got to know what you are doing.

From my experience and opinion, MI might provide the standard service at a premium. I had not return to MI since my two free service.

As I do not really find that they are providing me the value that I had expected and I do determine what to be replaced.

For e.g. Do you know that Subaru Japan would actually generally inform that it is ideally to replace the engine oil at the interval of 6 months or 5000 km?

Source: https://www.subaru.jp/accessory/engine_oil/about/

During my first 2 free service at 1,000km and 10,000km, they were providing Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40.

In the first free service, the oil stayed in my engine for approximately 9,000km and after the second service; I replaced the engine oil and oil filter at 15,000km at third part workshop and never to return to MI anymore. From then till now, I just replace my engine oil at 5,000km interval and my cost of service is still much cheaper than to return to the authorised distributor. Neither do I get my vehicle failing on me, having defects or unexpected breakdown.

The 5,000km oil change interval; is after reference of information to Subaru workshop manual service schedule. As it is due to repeated short distance drive in Singapore.

I had expectation that of an authorised distributor to know their stuffs. Should they don't, I will not be willing to pay a premium. As it does not justify at all.

Not to mentioned, there is also a line up of oil that is available:

https://www.subaru.jp/accessory/engine_oil/lineup/

MI isn't offering too. I will not say that they will be the best around. But it is recommended by Subaru.

There are plenty of myths, discussions and opinions on type of engine oil to be used.

There is no oil manufacturer would be able to tell you exactly what is suitable for you. It will be down to the car manufacturer to inform on the exact specification of oil to be used.

You would have to read up to determine what would be suitable for your needs.

Most workshop inspect those items in the checklist by eyes. Maybe a test drive to see if the vehicle is operating properly.

If you are observant towards your vehicle, you will notice when things are not in order. That's where you will drive to the workshop. Else, during your oil change; just get the mechanic to take a quick look to see if there are any worn out parts. (Usually, those are the rubber components) Else, there are not much of fault that will surface without indication or warning.

Last, but not least; MI, although the distributor of Subaru. It is also a separate profit making entity. Should their cost goes high and does not generate their expected profit margin, it will not justify for them to continue the business.

 

Edited March 23, 2020 by OnceInALifeTime

[PPeripheraL]

On 3/2/2020 at 5:08 PM, richard_crl032 said:

Hi PP,

I fitted my magic collar at AMK Autopoint c/o Steven:

https://sg.carousell.com/p/honda-civic-fd2r-magic-collar-kit-223978005?t-id=KUd1zIHy_K_1583139274681&t-referrer_browse_type=categories&t-referrer_category_id=109&t-referrer_request_id=mXI5cXOOqOrIkB0U&t-referrer_sort_by=popular&t-tap_index=15

Sorry for the confusion but my mentioned rsb (rear stabilizer bar) should have been replaced by rear arb (anti roll bar)  instead since there are also other cusco stabilizer bars for the rear ... avoid these other bars as they make your ride more harsh and for hardcore tracking perhaps.

Front arb and rear arb together is better as I like the handling .. choose between the usual additional front strut bar and this front arb upgrade and I will spend my $ on front arb upgrade as it has more obvious positive effects.

Unfortunately, I cannot help on pad replacement as I knew that I wanted BBK in view of the power of fxt and went straight for them ... my personal experience with my 2007-2017 estima with TRD sport pads, highly praised goodridge SSBH (brake hose) and even drilled/slotted rotors are bested by then Taiwanese JBT big 4 BBK front only.  

Cheers.

Richard

 

Hi Richard,

 

Thanks for the advice, will do a bit more research and understanding on the front/rear arbs. How long is the downtime for magic collars?

 

Just found some scratches on my rear bumper, and now can see some black marks on a otherwise white car. 😱 any recommendations for bumper respray with the original subaru white colour? Thinking touch up might be obvious.