2015 Forester 2.0

[OnceInALifeTime]

3 hours ago, shutterbox said:

seeing that you do some research, what EO do you then use or recommend, that meets the specifications that are talking about?

You can review the previous post that I had posted.

In summary, I will go for engine oil that is 5W-30 ACEA C3 rated.

Reasons:

1. Lower SAPS - To prevent carbon build up on intake valves, fuel economy, oxidation thickening and catalyser protection (Note: C3 is mid SAPS. C4 is Low SAPS)
2. Minimum 3.5 mPa.s. HTHS at 150 degC - To provide best possible protection for the engine

Other than that, I will try to go for oil that that will meet VW504/507 standards too.

Extracted from: https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php

As long as fulfill the mentioned criteria, I will use. No longer specific to brand.

Previously, before I had receive and accepted delivery of my SJG in 2018. I had brought 2 cartons of Motul X-Clean+. (24 x 1 litre bottles)

After that, I noticed that there is something weird. Their datasheet have changes.

I had then stopped purchasing Motul. (I would prefer higher HTHS whenever possible)

The pricing for Motul is a premium. There are many other brand of oil out there at lower cost and serve the same purpose.

Other than the specifications that I follow, I can't recommend you, brand of engine oil to use.

As in the above datasheets provided (I am unable to attached pdf files here and only screenshots), there are possibly changes along the way for whatsoever reason.

Therefore, better to check every time you purchase.

Next, look at packing or production dates on the bottles. Try not to obtain those more than 5 years old. It is not because the engine oil goes bad. As the oil is blended with additives and to achieve homogeneous product , after long period of storage. It might not be stable anymore.

Actually, this not rocket science. It's just information widely available online and trust specifications and approval from accredited body. Such as API, ACEA, ILSAC, JASO.  (Then opt for the most stringent and suitable specifications of the time)

It is not about the motor oil brand at all. (Isn't mass production is to achieve the economy of scale? So to reduce cost and lower pricing of end product?)

Motor Racing sponsorship or involvement might sounds exotic. But it is just marketing, just like saying. If the oil is good for Rally, F1, 24hours Le Mans or whatsoever. It must be good for your car.

But... Oil used for those cars in those events are different from what we use daily. Neither are we driving those cars too. So should we blindly use race oils in our vehicles?

Some might say that it is good. Some might say no.

I would say, it is individual choice; it is individual vehicle. So it is impossible to say good or bad. But it is also not right to claim that it is the best or correct or right.

For me, I will not use race oil at all. As I do not put my SJG to track, even if I do. After track, I will change immediately. For it is not that suitable for daily usage. It's high in friction modifier additives but lesser detergent additives. (When do we see race vehicles stop and go at crossings or traffic lights? Don't they go around the track non-stop and only pitstop?) It's all about application.

We are unable to say which oil is good or bad. But we can say that it is suitable for different applications. At the similar time, 5W-30 engine oil will be more stable than a 5W-40 engine oil (If both are of the same rating, for e.g. A4/B4). Why?

As a 5W-40 engine oil would have to use more viscosity modifier to achieve a wider range of viscosity. Whereas, 5W-30 engine oil will have a smaller range. (When the viscosity modifier breaks down, it no longer can maintain the supposed multi-grade oil.)

Extracted from: https://www.oronite.com/products-technology/viscosity-modifiers/default.aspx

If the oil properties is not suitable for the application, there will be a permanent shear and it is totally irreversible to the initial stage viscosity. It also means that the oil had broken down and no longer able to properly protect.

So would we want the most appropriate product to protect our engine?

Should we trust specifications and datasheets to select the most appropriate product? Or we should trust word of mouth, marketing and experience of others on other applications?

Hope that the above shared information will help.

 

 

Edited October 13, 2020 by OnceInALifeTime
References

[OnceInALifeTime]

Anyone self wash your SJ5 or SJG during this COVID-19 period?

What brand and type of car shampoo or wash and wax used?

[Stratovarius]

3 hours ago, OnceInALifeTime said:

Anyone self wash your SJ5 or SJG during this COVID-19 period?

What brand and type of car shampoo or wash and wax used?

I last washed in June. Lol. Using meguiar's and autoglym to polish. 

[OnceInALifeTime]

1 hour ago, thefalcon said:

A big thanks to all bro/sis here, I had replace the sway bar bushing today. I have attached the parts with parts number is anyone need to get the parts. It's a quick fix most workshop will able to do it. I paid S$30 for the job and the bushing is S$16 each. But I saw Shopee selling less than S$10 for a pair, but dunno correct or not.

 

Congrats on the wise decision! No more headache or wondering what is going on or at least one item changed!

[OnceInALifeTime]

52 minutes ago, Stratovarius said:

I last washed in June. Lol. Using meguiar's and autoglym to polish. 

You used Meguiar's Ultimate? Gold Class?

Thought of trying out the Ultimate wash and wax. Currently using Autoglym bodywork shampoo. But would have to wax after. Looking for fast way out. hahah.

[Stratovarius]

1 hour ago, OnceInALifeTime said:

You used Meguiar's Ultimate? Gold Class?

Thought of trying out the Ultimate wash and wax. Currently using Autoglym bodywork shampoo. But would have to wax after. Looking for fast way out. hahah.

Using Ultimate. But these wash and wax no use one. Best is still elbow grease polish. Mine is white so the stains can easily seen. Wash and wax will not be able to remove those with just a wash. 

[OnceInALifeTime]

1 hour ago, Stratovarius said:

Using Ultimate. But these wash and wax no use one. Best is still elbow grease polish. Mine is white so the stains can easily seen. Wash and wax will not be able to remove those with just a wash. 

haha... I see. Maybe will try it and see how good it will be on silver. Autobacs having offer pricing on it. Only during this COVID-19 period than actively washing own vehicle!

 

[Tohto]

On 10/12/2020 at 1:04 PM, OnceInALifeTime said:

haha... Better do not say this, " MI give all excuse must use the Shell 5W40 oil. Which they definitely  get at very low cost."

Wait, some will claim that it is just simply based on your guesswork and speculations against design specifications. Start to mention on experiences on previous car models, drive-ability. Or 0W20 Engine Oil for SJG.

Castrol Edge Titanium? What is the ACEA rating?

ACEA C3.

 

https://www.castrol.com/en_sg/singapore/home/engine-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/engine-oil-brands/castrol-edge-brand/castrol-edge.html#tab_5w-30-c3

[OnceInALifeTime]

34 minutes ago, Tohto said:

ACEA C3.

 

https://www.castrol.com/en_sg/singapore/home/engine-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/engine-oil-brands/castrol-edge-brand/castrol-edge.html#tab_5w-30-c3

Thank you!

[OnceInALifeTime]

7 hours ago, thefalcon said:

Since CB(Apr2020) I never wash my car liao. I just wipe it.

1. Use a duster to dust of those dust from the surface. Or you may like to use a damp cloth to wipe the surface after dusting like at home wiping the table.

2. Use Quick Shine Spray wax(any brand also can, as long it say "Quick detailing without washing" to spray on the car and let it sit for a few minutes.

3. Use Cloth 1 to lightly wipe it and you will see a cloudy finish and let it sit for a while.

4. Use Cloth 2 to buff lightly to shine it.

5. But for the rims, I use a wet wipe to clean out the brake dust first then do the same. ( But rims I not always do la, lazy la)

I do this every 2 to 3 days and it take about 10 minutes each time compare to last time I wash weekly and and wax for 2 hours. So now every week total time spend is about 20 to 30 minutes. Photos attached.

** but during raining day, I never bother to clean the car**

 

Nice! Shiny!

Do you use alot of the spray wax?

I had tried Sonax Quick wax before once. The issue I had was, after following the instructions, spray while the car is still wet. the emulsion drip the black trim. There are white residues.

haha... End up the bottle just left there...

 

[OnceInALifeTime]

On 10/11/2020 at 2:08 PM, Tohto said:

Tuned does not mean always need to cheong red line or high speed.

Tuned can improve the low end torque. Our FXT max torque start at 2.4k rpm which is consider very high for modern 2.0L turbo engine. Look at Merc or BMW, their 2.0L turbo max torque are all obtain at low 1k rpm.

My FXT is tuned, my max torque after tuned obtain is less than 2k rpm. Definitely better drive than default. 

Car tuned at just after 10k mileage, currently 4.5yrs. 132k km. Still driving very smooth and strong. I expecting to continue drive this car till at least 8 to 9 yrs.

BTW I only used 5W30 engine oil. As our owner manual suggest which I always prefer thinner oil.

I know you only believe  in 5W40.

Had viewed on the brands that you had mentioned:

Extracted from: https://www.bmw.com.sg/en/all-models/x-series/X1/2019/Specification.html

Indeed, they are having a wider max torque band and reaches max torque at lower RPM.

Another thing that I had realised, the requirement for premium gasoline. But their engine had lower power output. Surprised that X1 20i is in VES B!

It seems that there are room for improvement for Singapore SJG too.

Extracted from: https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2014-forester-2-0xt-hp-and-torque.134114/?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=8b1948b3769cf930e819a82044d01a80cf7ef8d9-1602639916-0-Abf648RZSF8BxQ5hsgCCmhmoOhnkda4kAgEXls9eXCAUxFnLHGO7Lhrp4-Pp9POyi28ESFZCxoM42pf_IG57HagpMLob6TzZWW7vFTrlCggFIbhJX60ukJQXi1dcmWFUBTfP4dL-gd-VmkVXlKoLSqKfQVMCcmVuy6TqNwFQDGNpXurGv2aq1xUq8FYJym3xGZNS9gjAOl33oDcK4qfpmFKEvbTsbqNURpX9cr4I8y7S2rJWewO_DJpMOE8GxvQOpz3sIGat2xYQ8B10N9vFryf7QSFjDUJEV7N-00qHbOlkO0opWHxe5tBeIk_OWhxW3gFxJ5QfRotjdqM7uxyPmAxjmMdl99G-nZ1B8JnT6Xgcg-KvUEjenT7RdVFCPKplpBljnh1LkX1TcA3DXI19xRo

[Tohto]

7 minutes ago, OnceInALifeTime said:

Had viewed on the brands that you had mentioned:

Extracted from: https://www.bmw.com.sg/en/all-models/x-series/X1/2019/Specification.html

Indeed, they are having a wider max torque band and reaches max torque at lower RPM.

Another thing that I had realised, the requirement for premium gasoline. But their engine had lower power output. Surprised that X1 20i is in VES B!

It seems that there are room for improvement for Singapore SJG too.

Extracted from: https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2014-forester-2-0xt-hp-and-torque.134114/?__cf_chl_jschl_tk__=8b1948b3769cf930e819a82044d01a80cf7ef8d9-1602639916-0-Abf648RZSF8BxQ5hsgCCmhmoOhnkda4kAgEXls9eXCAUxFnLHGO7Lhrp4-Pp9POyi28ESFZCxoM42pf_IG57HagpMLob6TzZWW7vFTrlCggFIbhJX60ukJQXi1dcmWFUBTfP4dL-gd-VmkVXlKoLSqKfQVMCcmVuy6TqNwFQDGNpXurGv2aq1xUq8FYJym3xGZNS9gjAOl33oDcK4qfpmFKEvbTsbqNURpX9cr4I8y7S2rJWewO_DJpMOE8GxvQOpz3sIGat2xYQ8B10N9vFryf7QSFjDUJEV7N-00qHbOlkO0opWHxe5tBeIk_OWhxW3gFxJ5QfRotjdqM7uxyPmAxjmMdl99G-nZ1B8JnT6Xgcg-KvUEjenT7RdVFCPKplpBljnh1LkX1TcA3DXI19xRo

You may not be aware, our FXT engine if used 95 petrol power will be lower than premium 98. This is confirmed by a few owners who did a dyno in the 2016-2017 period.

BMW 2.0L engine have many tuned lever.  If you look at X3 3.0Xdrive. This is the same 2.0L engine.  But output tuned to 258bhp.

Same  320i and 330i both are 2.0L engine.  Different  tuned. 

Edited October 14, 2020 by Tohto

[OnceInALifeTime]

22 hours ago, shutterbox said:

seeing that you do some research, what EO do you then use or recommend, that meets the specifications that are talking about?

 

19 hours ago, OnceInALifeTime said:

You can review the previous post that I had posted.

In summary, I will go for engine oil that is 5W-30 ACEA C3 rated.

Reasons:

1. Lower SAPS - To prevent carbon build up on intake valves, fuel economy, oxidation thickening and catalyser protection (Note: C3 is mid SAPS. C4 is Low SAPS)
2. Minimum 3.5 mPa.s. HTHS at 150 degC - To provide best possible protection for the engine

Other than that, I will try to go for oil that that will meet VW504/507 standards too.

Extracted from: https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/vw_motor_oil_specifications_explained.php

As long as fulfill the mentioned criteria, I will use. No longer specific to brand.

Previously, before I had receive and accepted delivery of my SJG in 2018. I had brought 2 cartons of Motul X-Clean+. (24 x 1 litre bottles)

After that, I noticed that there is something weird. Their datasheet have changes.

I had then stopped purchasing Motul. (I would prefer higher HTHS whenever possible)

The pricing for Motul is a premium. There are many other brand of oil out there at lower cost and serve the same purpose.

Other than the specifications that I follow, I can't recommend you, brand of engine oil to use.

As in the above datasheets provided (I am unable to attached pdf files here and only screenshots), there are possibly changes along the way for whatsoever reason.

Therefore, better to check every time you purchase.

Next, look at packing or production dates on the bottles. Try not to obtain those more than 5 years old. It is not because the engine oil goes bad. As the oil is blended with additives and to achieve homogeneous product , after long period of storage. It might not be stable anymore.

Actually, this not rocket science. It's just information widely available online and trust specifications and approval from accredited body. Such as API, ACEA, ILSAC, JASO.  (Then opt for the most stringent and suitable specifications of the time)

It is not about the motor oil brand at all. (Isn't mass production is to achieve the economy of scale? So to reduce cost and lower pricing of end product?)

Motor Racing sponsorship or involvement might sounds exotic. But it is just marketing, just like saying. If the oil is good for Rally, F1, 24hours Le Mans or whatsoever. It must be good for your car.

But... Oil used for those cars in those events are different from what we use daily. Neither are we driving those cars too. So should we blindly use race oils in our vehicles?

Some might say that it is good. Some might say no.

I would say, it is individual choice; it is individual vehicle. So it is impossible to say good or bad. But it is also not right to claim that it is the best or correct or right.

For me, I will not use race oil at all. As I do not put my SJG to track, even if I do. After track, I will change immediately. For it is not that suitable for daily usage. It's high in friction modifier additives but lesser detergent additives. (When do we see race vehicles stop and go at crossings or traffic lights? Don't they go around the track non-stop and only pitstop?) It's all about application.

We are unable to say which oil is good or bad. But we can say that it is suitable for different applications. At the similar time, 5W-30 engine oil will be more stable than a 5W-40 engine oil (If both are of the same rating, for e.g. A4/B4). Why?

As a 5W-40 engine oil would have to use more viscosity modifier to achieve a wider range of viscosity. Whereas, 5W-30 engine oil will have a smaller range. (When the viscosity modifier breaks down, it no longer can maintain the supposed multi-grade oil.)

Extracted from: https://www.oronite.com/products-technology/viscosity-modifiers/default.aspx

If the oil properties is not suitable for the application, there will be a permanent shear and it is totally irreversible to the initial stage viscosity. It also means that the oil had broken down and no longer able to properly protect.

So would we want the most appropriate product to protect our engine?

Should we trust specifications and datasheets to select the most appropriate product? Or we should trust word of mouth, marketing and experience of others on other applications?

Hope that the above shared information will help.

 

 

By the way, I had noticed one thing. I had forgot to check with you. What model are you having? The earlier illustrations are based on my views for SJG. If it is SJ5, please do use 0W20 (If possible ACEA C3, A3/B4). There is Automatic/Start Stop for SJ5, unless it is disabled. If disable, can consider to use 5W-30 ACEA C3, A3/B4.

1. Why A3/B4, when it is high SAPS? Because it is port injection, does not have the usual issue of intake carbon build up like direct injection engines
2. Why C3, when A3/B4 could be used? It's mid SAPS, lower Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus, Sulpher. To prevent carbon build up on intake valves, fuel economy, oxidation thickening and catalyser protection.
3. Why use 5W-30 when automatic start stop disabled? It is a common grade comparing to 0W20. Cost less and easier to find. With constant running of engine with its oil pump. Lubrication is always there. Manufacturer had mentioned that it maybe used. (Even 5W-40 too! But note on the viscosity of the oil. Where 0w20 oil will flow faster compare to 5w30 or 5w20. But manufacturer recommended 0W20 for optimum engine performance and protection)

Most wear and tear occur during the Start up of the engine, although during cold start suffers from most wear. Next will be hard acceleration too, cause more wear and tear, in comparison to constant running speed of the engine where the engine oil is constantly circulated at the same capacity by the oil pump.

 

[OnceInALifeTime]

29 minutes ago, Tohto said:

You may not be aware, our FXT engine if used 95 petrol power will be lower than premium 98. This is confirmed by a few owners who did a dyno in the 2016-2017 period.

BMW 2.0L engine have many tuned lever.  If you look at X3 3.0Xdrive. This is the same 2.0L engine.  But output tuned to 258bhp.

Same  320i and 330i both are 2.0L engine.  Different  tuned. 

Oh! So you mean that if stock FXT engine, using RON 95 will generate lower power?

So far, I had never pumped RON 95 before. Just kept on RON 98 or 100 in Malaysia.

From the manual, I noticed that it is RON 95 or higher. So I was thinking if the current set up is tuned to RON95 or higher ( Means to accommodate lower petrol octane)

 

[OnceInALifeTime]

Hi all!

Can share if any had tuned their engine ECU?

I am new to this and would like to venture more into it.

1. What perimeters were tuned?
2. What are the before and after?
3. Tuned by?
4. Original mapping retained and able to restore easily?

Do hope that would be able to achieve on RON98 petrol.

2014-2018 JDM Subaru Forester XT:

Power: 276 hp (206 kW; 280 PS) at 5,600 RPM

Torque: 258 lb⋅ft (350 N⋅m; 36 kg⋅m) at 2,000-5,200 rpm

As it certainly does seems that it will be very fun to drive with these ratings than:

 

 

Please kindly do share.

Edited October 14, 2020 by OnceInALifeTime

[OnceInALifeTime]

8 hours ago, thefalcon said:

Hi,

1. I just spray very little that just a thin layer on dry surface(no so much until it drip) for it to sit 2mins before I use Cloth 1.

2. I just buy any spray on sales. hehehe. Sonax expensive. I always choose silicone wax.

3. Take out your Sonax and use it, don't waste it. remember to shake well before you spray.

haha... Thank you for the grooming techniques.

Will use the duster too!

[Augustine]

Hi All,

Recently sent my car for servicing and was told the car needs an alignment. Below is the vehicle alignment report.

May i know how to read the report? Is the car better after the alignment?

Thanks!

 

Edited October 15, 2020 by Augustine

[OnceInALifeTime]

1 hour ago, Augustine said:

Hi All,

Recently sent my car for servicing and was told the car needs an alignment. Below is the vehicle alignment report.

May i know how to read the report? Is the car better after the alignment?

Thanks!

 

Is there any modification done? Such as change of wheels; different offsets or change of suspension parts?