IRoad In-Car Camera Recorder Users

[Daniu82]

1 hour ago, GTO-1 said:

Don't know rules of the forum, but I got it installed at infiniti werkz at kaki bukit. 

If the rules ask me to delete, then go ahead delete.

Thanks for sharing. It’s not my installer. I am using IROAD X9, everything is ok but just that the app is quite lousy and the date of the recording downloaded is always not accurate. Might wan to change to Thinkware next time but not sure how it compares to IROAD. 

[donovanpok]

Hi guys. I'm thinking of getting an iroad x5. But lately hearing a lot of issues about iroad cameras. Should I still get this?

Cause i'm also considering the nefu plabo. Its about $100 more in price difference. although not much reviews and demo videos out there yet.

 

 

[JonathanYang]

And i was like ok.. x10 it is after so much research... and now i read this... sibei sianzz... don't know which to get now..

[Rootkie]

My x9 has difficulty capturing moving vehicle's number plate clearly. Video is clear but somehow when paused to see the number, it's blur. My previous Blackvue captured the number plate better.

[GTO-1]

On 3/22/2020 at 5:36 PM, JonathanYang said:

And i was like ok.. x10 it is after so much research... and now i read this... sibei sianzz... don't know which to get now..

It's like any product. You have people with good experiences and bad ones. 

Mine experience with the product is so-so (so far thinkware has been better than my iroad x9), but my anger is because the official authorised installer spliced the external iroad battery directly into the car wiring harness. It then shortcurcuited, burned through the car harness and resulted in a $2k bill to repair, and car out of action for 1 week. That is unacceptable. 

 

[PPeripheraL]

On 3/22/2020 at 5:36 PM, JonathanYang said:

And i was like ok.. x10 it is after so much research... and now i read this... sibei sianzz... don't know which to get now..

Go for blackvue, wouldn’t recommend the powermagic though. Been using blackvue through 2 rides and new one is with iroad. Personally blackvue more reliable and smaller form factor (might be because mine is x9 so a little wide)

[Discoburg]

4 hours ago, Jolie said:

Where did you buy it? Could you give me the link. Thanks in advance

Bought it from a freelance mechanic. It was dismantled from my previous car thus the low pice.

[TheGamez]

Hi all, was scrolling thru the thread and reading the manual but unfortunately still unable to find answers. Appreciate advice:

1) Iroad parking mode on = continuous recording? I switched it on once, left for a night and went to check the recordings, nothing.

2) If my objective is to record an impact when parked, how should the settings be? "Impact detection ON" + Parking Mode OFF"?

Many thanks in advance !

[Tannl]

On 6/11/2020 at 10:11 AM, TheGamez said:

Hi all, was scrolling thru the thread and reading the manual but unfortunately still unable to find answers. Appreciate advice:

1) Iroad parking mode on = continuous recording? I switched it on once, left for a night and went to check the recordings, nothing.

2) If my objective is to record an impact when parked, how should the settings be? "Impact detection ON" + Parking Mode OFF"?

Many thanks in advance !

Firstly, Is your camera wired directly to battery or to backup battery? Else it turns off when your engine is off. Whatever setting also cannot work. 

[serendipity]

On 3/14/2020 at 3:33 PM, GTO-1 said:

Well I'm switching from Iroad.  It's likely not I road's fault and likely shoddy workmanship, but I did go to an iroad approved service installer and this still happened, so I still blame them:

Got a iroad power pack installed from an iroad approved installer about 1 year ago for my new car. Few months ago I noticed the cam would just randomly go into parking mode while driving (fine - no big deal). Then a few weeks later the battery pack completely ceased to work, until I logged on using Bluetooth. Suddenly everything worked again and no more random parking mode activities while driving. I thought great. 

Yesterday, my wife was driving the car and suddenly smoke started emitting from the steering column. Parked the car side of the road and got a tow to the AD. Today, they showed me that the wiring of the external battery was short circuiting and had actually burnt through the cars wiring harness. Going to cost me $1800 and 3-4 days to replace it. Not to mention the danger of the car catching fire.

$1800 and no car is mafan, but thank god the smoking didn't get worse and create a fire that could have injured myself and my wife. 

But I'm getting rid of all iroad parts from my car and going to Thinkware or Blackvue.  While it's not the parts that are necessarily the problem, I did go to an official iroad installer that rated quite well on sgcarmart.  If iroad is going to approve an installer that has such shoddy workmanship after only 1 year, then goodbye. 

Take what you want from my post. But telling my story. 

How has your experience been with Blackvue or Thinkware compared to iRoad? Am debating whether to get iRoad X9 vs. BlackVue 750s 2-ch.

Thoughts?

Do you ever use the vehicle sensing/driver assist features?

 

[GTO-1]

20 minutes ago, serendipity said:

How has your experience been with Blackvue or Thinkware compared to iRoad? Am debating whether to get iRoad X9 vs. BlackVue 750s 2-ch.

Thoughts?

Do you ever use the vehicle sensing/driver assist features?

 

Been using a thinkware u1000 for a few months now. First thing: (so far) it hasn't burned the car to a crisp, so that's a good start. 

Beyond that, the camera is "okay" - it does everything I expect of it. I don't use the 4K since I just don't see the benefit. I do like the cloud features that iRoad doesn't have. Because of CB I haven't checked its ability to withstand heat, which is my biggest concern based on feedback from the Internet. 

I do have the driver assistance features on for LDWS and Front Collision. I turned off the speed camera warnings because it's annoying and just use waze. I can tell you they actually work 90% of the time, whereas on the iroad x9 they were completely crap. Honestly, I've never really needed the driver assistance since it turns out to be alot of binging and bonging.

ZMC (thinkware agent) is friendly, but I would say workmanship is average. My rear camera was stuck on at a slight angle (it's minor, but it annoys me) and I noticed the other day that they actually wired one of their cables directly into the fusebox without using a fuse tap or piggyback fuse. But then again, my workmanship from an iroad authorised installer almost resulted in my car also nearly burned to a crisp and a $2k repair bill. So, as long as the thinkware installation doesn't do that, then I'll be fine. 

I'm any case I would recommend thinkware. I wouldn't necessarily recommend the U1000 because you can get one tier below for cheaper, with largely the same feature set. 

[serendipity]

18 minutes ago, GTO-1 said:

Been using a thinkware u1000 for a few months now. First thing: (so far) it hasn't burned the car to a crisp, so that's a good start. 

Beyond that, the camera is "okay" - it does everything I expect of it. I don't use the 4K since I just don't see the benefit. I do like the cloud features that iRoad doesn't have. Because of CB I haven't checked its ability to withstand heat, which is my biggest concern based on feedback from the Internet. 

I do have the driver assistance features on for LDWS and Front Collision. I turned off the speed camera warnings because it's annoying and just use waze. I can tell you they actually work 90% of the time, whereas on the iroad x9 they were completely crap. Honestly, I've never really needed the driver assistance since it turns out to be alot of binging and bonging.

ZMC (thinkware agent) is friendly, but I would say workmanship is average. My rear camera was stuck on at a slight angle (it's minor, but it annoys me) and I noticed the other day that they actually wired one of their cables directly into the fusebox without using a fuse tap or piggyback fuse. But then again, my workmanship from an iroad authorised installer almost resulted in my car also nearly burned to a crisp and a $2k repair bill. So, as long as the thinkware installation doesn't do that, then I'll be fine. 

I'm any case I would recommend thinkware. I wouldn't necessarily recommend the U1000 because you can get one tier below for cheaper, with largely the same feature set. 

Super helpful! Thank you. I'll research a bit further. 

[Gonegolf]

On 8/18/2019 at 9:57 PM, grandeus said:

After some research, I discovered that iRoad V9S2 recordings are foggy or have a “halo” because the inner lens may have become smudged. I cannot be certain but I suspect the issue may arise from condensation due to our car’s air conditioning. Each car’s interior environment being different, this may be why the problem crops up at different times for different poeple.

 

I have found it is not difficult to rectify the problem but do note that this would probably void your warranty as it involves opening up the front camera unit. This fix also assumes the problem is not a CMOS sensor or otherwise electronically related.

 

This is what one needs to do:

 

1) Open up the casing of the iRoad V9: there are 3 plastic catches (one above, two below) to undo. You may want to use a rubber tipped tool to push the catches or you may scratch them as well as the camera body.

 

2) Once the 3 catches are undone, slowly seperate the front and back pieces of the body. Note that there are 2 more concealed catches at the top on the extreme left and right sides. You may snap them if you are not careful.

 

3) You should now see that a speaker (fixed to the front piece) is attached to the main board (fixed to the rear piece) via 2 wires. It is not necessary to detach the speaker’s wire plug from the main board but be careful not to damage the connections.

 

4) You will also see the lens body (black coloured) attached to a small circuit module which is in turn attached to the main board. Remember the orientation of how the module sits on the main board (take a photo if you have to) and gently pull on the lens body. The smaller module should easily seperate from the main board.

 

5) You can now see the module (which is actually the camera CMOS sensor module) is attached to the main board via a plug. The lens body is attached to the module by 2 small black Phillips screws.

 

6) Unscrew the lens body from the module (gently!) and seperate the lens body from the sensor module. Below the lens, you can see the CMOS sensor itself. DO NOT TOUCH IT unless you are very sure you know what you are doing as it is very very easy to damage.

 

7) Now have a look at the inner lens of the lens housing. Depending on the severity of your “halo” problem, you may be able to see a layer of smudge on the inner lense. Using a dry cotton bud swab, gently clean the inner lens side of the lens housing. The entire housing CANNOT be seperated and there is no reason to clean the inside.

 

8) If the lens is still not really clean, breathe on the lens (open your mouth and exhale with the “horrr” sound onto the lens) and use the cotton swab to rub off the vapour condensate. I did not try cleaning with any solvents (medicinal alcohol, glass cleaner etc) and if you would like to try it would be at your own risk.

 

9) Screw back the lens housing onto the sensor module and attach the module via the small plug back to the main board. Gently snap back the 5 catches (2 hidden, 3 overt) to close back your camera unit and reattach it back to the mounting in your car.

 

If all went well, your unit will power up with no problems and you can now do a live view using the app on your phone to see the results of your cleaning.

 

 

This is before cleaning.

 

 

This is after cleaning. Photos are video recording screenshots of footage from my unit with no editing whatsoever.

 

Corvit charges $30 to do a 1:1 replacement and they cannot guarantee the problem will not reoccur (I asked). If your camera unit’s body is now a little bit sticky due to heat and sun exposure, expect to pay $60 for “body damage”.

 

I hope the above is of use to other V9 users who like me, find Corvit’s replacement charges to be a bit on the high side.

I changed mine under warranty about 9 months.  The replaced set had turned cloudy again at the 3.5 yrs point and it had turned cloudy again.

Also, the battery cover flap had broken off at the 3rd year point.

I am changing to another brand.  Give up.

[Solidus_gz]

Dear all, my iroad x9 had some issue, the front led was lighted up, and the power and gps light are flickering, and no sound when I press the power button and WiFi button. Despite I took out the power cable, same issue happen...

Anyone encounter this issue before? I only have this cam like 1.5 year ago

[Shibadog]

1 hour ago, Solidus_gz said:

Dear all, my iroad x9 had some issue, the front led was lighted up, and the power and gps light are flickering, and no sound when I press the power button and WiFi button. Despite I took out the power cable, same issue happen...

Anyone encounter this issue before? I only have this cam like 1.5 year ago

go to iroad customer service at ubi to check. https://www.facebook.com/IROADSG

my X9 also had some issues at the 15mth mark. Wasn't able to record and kept restarting non-stop. 

they had a one-for-one exchange with a small fee (below $100). The replacement unit came with a 3mth warranty.

[Solidus_gz]

thanks guys manage to resolve it, I actually replace it with non iroad memory card, apparently its working good for a few days and then it act weirdly, and then I took out the non iroad sd card and reinsert it say memory damage, and then I insert the old iroad sd card again, it work normally again... 

Anyone using other brand of sd card and it work? 

[Stanmehh]

Hello,

Wanted to seek advice, I’m on iroad q9 and noticed lately my cam’s recording time is always a few mins short of current real-time, how do I resolve this problem?

also noticed lens glare during my night recording and everything looks blur unless the car is right behind (eg I cant see number plates of cars near me clearly)

[grandeus]

On 9/14/2020 at 12:52 AM, Stanmehh said:

Hello,

Wanted to seek advice, I’m on iroad q9 and noticed lately my cam’s recording time is always a few mins short of current real-time, how do I resolve this problem?

also noticed lens glare during my night recording and everything looks blur unless the car is right behind (eg I cant see number plates of cars near me clearly)

I use the V9 so my opinions are based on my experience with my cam and some wild assed guesses.

The V9 has an internal battery to maintain the time should the unit shutdown for whatever reason e.g. to protect the car battery, unplugged by user etc. Depending on the age of your cam and/or usage conditions, the battery may have run down and so can no longer keep accurate time. However, you mentioned that the difference is a few mins instead of grossly off so it may be related to deterioration of the hardware related to time keeping.

Whichever the case, if you connect your cam to your mobile device via wifi, the cam time should sync and correct itself. You would have to sync regularly, depending on the severity of your time drift.

Regarding lens glare/flare, you did not mention if it is your front or rear cam, although you did say “...the car is right behind...”. This problem appear to arise mostly in the front unit, based on users in this forum but I recall reading about someone who said it was his rear cam having this problem.

Again based on my own experience, the lens flare could either be due to the CMOS sensor deterioration or smudge on your inner lens. If it is a CMOS issue then you are likely looking at a unit replacement. I will continue on the assumption that its a lens smudge problem.

I previously posted on how to open up the V9’s front unit to clean the inner lens and you can have a read to get a feel of what is involved. Not knowing how the inside of the Q9 look like and I am also unsure if it is your rear unit that is giving you problems, I suggest you search online to find if anyone has a made a teardown video or have some photos to reference. But do so at your own risk because opening your Q9 would likely void any warranty you have and there is always the risk of self inflicted damage.

It is very satisfying though, if you are able to fix your problems without having to pay Corvit’s (*cough*exorbitant*cough*) prices.

Edit: Forgot to mention that if you open up your front unit, you should be able to see the time keeping battery. If the Q9 uses the flat lithium type battery (CRxxxx), it will be easy to change.

Edited September 16, 2020 by grandeus
update with new info