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2016 Hyundai Elantra / Avante


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2 hours ago, Daniu82 said:

Maybe ECU got reset after battery change? Might need some time to get used to your driving style again.

I don't think so cause the technician did hook up a spare battery before he disconnect my dead battery and he also explain this process to me. After the change all my radio setting still remains intact.

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13 hours ago, Acewin said:

I don't think so cause the technician did hook up a spare battery before he disconnect my dead battery and he also explain this process to me. After the change all my radio setting still remains intact.

I was amazed your ride was doing 6.4L/100Km which is above 15.6km per litre. It was extremely frugal. Having said, like to understand the 6.4L/100km record was your history drive pattern in highway? Have you gotten a chance to reset the FC metering and start a fresh trip record?

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1 hour ago, Tcx607 said:

I was amazed your ride was doing 6.4L/100Km which is above 15.6km per litre. It was extremely frugal. Having said, like to understand the 6.4L/100km record was your history drive pattern in highway? Have you gotten a chance to reset the FC metering and start a fresh trip record?

My route is mostly 80% high way and 20% city route and this is my daily routine. I do rest the FC meter but not every top up.

 

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18 hours ago, Acewin said:

Hi All Elantra Owners,

I would like to check with all on this finding on my 2018 Elantra and its goes on as:

My Elantra comes with the stock 45Ah battery and I had a flat battery on end Feb 2020 so no choice call up a friends recommendation for on site rescue, guy came and tell me this model is actually a 60Ah size and can accommodate it as KMC wants to cut cost so put a 45Ah in my 2018 car. As I am stuck here and also not much choice as I need to get the car moving to run my errands. So change to a 60Ah battery base on his recommendation.

The strange thing I notice is after this change my fuel consumption starts to increase although all my daily driving route and habit remains the same.

Before change my FC on my odometer was 6.4L/100Km for a long time

After change new battery my FC records 7.0 to 7.2L/100Km

Would like to find out from all Elantra owners does anyone experience FC increase after a battery size upgrade or something wrong with my ride. My ride mileage currently is 60K.

All sharing is welcome.

Thanks

Is yours the Basic or S trim?

If I recall correctly, the base trim comes with a 45Ah battery. The increase to 60Ah battery would also mean your alternator might have to work harder to get the battery fully charged.

Another possibility like what @Daniu82 mentioned, the ECU could be readjusting to your driving patterns.

Try to drive the car for longer distance to ensure that the new battery is properly charged up to the full capacity first and monitor. 

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(edited)

IMO, the battery of 45Ah or 60Ah is only rating of electrical ampere per hour. The 60Ah will provide a stronger crank on starter motor. It does not has direct contribution to engine fuel consumption. The only technical contribution to the engine is temperature if the driving pattern remain the same. Since the weather is getting hotter, the efficiency may differ from cooler weather during Jan/Feb period. As such, the FC may slowly creep up the number from 6.4 to 7.2L/100km. Nevertheless, the FC is still very good.

Edited by Tcx607
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5 hours ago, Acewin said:

My route is mostly 80% high way and 20% city route and this is my daily routine. I do rest the FC meter but not every top up.

 

Did you find out what other Elantras are using?

45 or 60?

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8 hours ago, Ahtea said:

Is yours the Basic or S trim?

If I recall correctly, the base trim comes with a 45Ah battery. The increase to 60Ah battery would also mean your alternator might have to work harder to get the battery fully charged.

Another possibility like what @Daniu82 mentioned, the ECU could be readjusting to your driving patterns.

Try to drive the car for longer distance to ensure that the new battery is properly charged up to the full capacity first and monitor. 

Mine is basic and comes with 45Ah battery.

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4 hours ago, Tcx607 said:

IMO, the battery of 45Ah or 60Ah is only rating of electrical ampere per hour. The 60Ah will provide a stronger crank on starter motor. It does not has direct contribution to engine fuel consumption. The only technical contribution to the engine is temperature if the driving pattern remain the same. Since the weather is getting hotter, the efficiency may differ from cooler weather during Jan/Feb period. As such, the FC may slowly creep up the number from 6.4 to 7.2L/100km. Nevertheless, the FC is still very good.

Yes you are correct to say 60Ah battery will provide a stronger crank. But I was guess it may requires the alternator to work harder to charge it.

Not too sure if any Bro can share what the Alternator Management System that is model is equip with do?

Maybe the higher AH battery could be the cause of my higher FC.

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3 hours ago, Fcw75 said:

Did you find out what other Elantras are using?

45 or 60?

All 2018 model basic comes with 45Ah battery.

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On 5/2/2020 at 4:01 PM, Tcx607 said:

IMO, the battery of 45Ah or 60Ah is only rating of electrical ampere per hour. The 60Ah will provide a stronger crank on starter motor. It does not has direct contribution to engine fuel consumption. The only technical contribution to the engine is temperature if the driving pattern remain the same. Since the weather is getting hotter, the efficiency may differ from cooler weather during Jan/Feb period. As such, the FC may slowly creep up the number from 6.4 to 7.2L/100km. Nevertheless, the FC is still very good.

45Ah and 60Ah is the electrical ampere per hour and is directly related to how strong it can crank. It is like your mobile phone battery also, the higher the rating, the longer you need to fully charge the battery and this charging is handled by the alternator. 

I might be wrong.

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On 5/2/2020 at 5:16 PM, Fcw75 said:

Did you find out what other Elantras are using?

45 or 60?

Basic = 45Ah

S and Elite = 60Ah

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On 5/2/2020 at 8:40 PM, Acewin said:

Yes you are correct to say 60Ah battery will provide a stronger crank. But I was guess it may requires the alternator to work harder to charge it.

Not too sure if any Bro can share what the Alternator Management System that is model is equip with do?

Maybe the higher AH battery could be the cause of my higher FC.

A simple write up of AMS:

Quote

 

Alternator Management System

Alternator management system controls the charging voltage set point in order to improve fuel economy, manage alternator load under various operating conditions, keep the battery charged, and protect the battery from over-charging. ECM controls generating voltage by duty cycle (charging control, discharging control, normal control) based on the battery conditions and vehicle operating conditions.

The system conducts discharging control when accelerating a vehicle. Vehicle reduces an alternator load and consumes an electric power form a battery.

The system conducts charging control when decelerating a vehicle. Vehicle increases an alternator load and charges a battery.

 

So basically the AMS tries to regulate the charging of your battery to reduce the load on your alternator. Maybe you need to drive your ride for a long journey to have the battery fully charged up to 60Ah.

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9 hours ago, Ahtea said:

A simple write up of AMS:

So basically the AMS tries to regulate the charging of your battery to reduce the load on your alternator. Maybe you need to drive your ride for a long journey to have the battery fully charged up to 60Ah.

Thanks for the AMS explanation so I guess the logic is the change to higher AH battery needs more charging thus causing higher FC

This is from my layman understanding

Hope any other Bro/Sis can share if they do encounter similar situation. 

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(edited)

Actually I don't think that the higher battery capacity will cause the alternator to work harder such that the fuel consumption becomes higher... if you're driving the same route every day around the same time, your electricity needs and consumption should be largely similar if your aircon settings and stereo system remains the same throughout this period of using the car pre and post battery change... so you will consume a certain amount of electricity from the battery which the alternator must charge back... whether it is a smaller or higher capacity battery, the alternator is charging back the same quantity of electrical charge... it should not change the load on the alternator... don't be fooled by the 45 & 60 figures... these are the total capacity of the battery but when we drive, if the battery and car is functioning properly, then the battery should not be discharged to zero capacity... that's just not possible... hence your alternator is not charging a larger battery capacity... most of the time, if you measure the load, it should be quite steady cos the car's electrical system will replenish immediately with the alternator... you can never let the battery capacity drop below a threshold value, after which your battery is dead and cannot be re-charged... and you have to replace it or condition it if it's still new and salvageable... this tends to happen if you overload your car's electrical specifications, and draw more electricity from the battery than your alternator is designed to replace... which is why some car owners complain their batteries have to be replaced very often cos they modify the car by replacing with super high discharge head light bulbs, add all kinds of fancy LED decorative lights, install huge amps and speakers and also drive very short distances every day...

Edited by teomingern
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1 hour ago, teomingern said:

Actually I don't think that the higher battery capacity will cause the alternator to work harder such that the fuel consumption becomes higher... if you're driving the same route every day around the same time, your electricity needs and consumption should be largely similar if your aircon settings and stereo system remains the same throughout this period of using the car pre and post battery change... so you will consume a certain amount of electricity from the battery which the alternator must charge back... whether it is a smaller or higher capacity battery, the alternator is charging back the same quantity of electrical charge... it should not change the load on the alternator... don't be fooled by the 45 & 60 figures... these are the total capacity of the battery but when we drive, if the battery and car is functioning properly, then the battery should not be discharged to zero capacity... that's just not possible... hence your alternator is not charging a larger battery capacity... most of the time, if you measure the load, it should be quite steady cos the car's electrical system will replenish immediately with the alternator... you can never let the battery capacity drop below a threshold value, after which your battery is dead and cannot be re-charged... and you have to replace it or condition it if it's still new and salvageable... this tends to happen if you overload your car's electrical specifications, and draw more electricity from the battery than your alternator is designed to replace... which is why some car owners complain their batteries have to be replaced very often cos they modify the car by replacing with super high discharge head light bulbs, add all kinds of fancy LED decorative lights, install huge amps and speakers and also drive very short distances every day...

Hi,

Thanks for your explanation I am still puzzle as my drive route/timing etc still remains the same except for the change of battery recently.

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20 hours ago, Acewin said:

Hi,

Thanks for your explanation I am still puzzle as my drive route/timing etc still remains the same except for the change of battery recently.

You know... I find the same for me... when the car is new, the fuel consumption is better... but I think it's the psychological effect of having a new car where you take really good care of it and drive it gently... after 6 months or so, you're more familiar with the car, you tend to push the car harder... I was mostly able to clock around 11.5 to 12.5 km/L for my Sonata initially... this lasted for about 1.5 years... gradually the fuel consumption increased to 10.8 to 11 km/L and now having just crossed the 4th year, I'm averaging 10.2 to 10.6 km/L... I'm definitely more conscious of pushing the car harder... I don't sayang my car much one lar... within 12 months of getting the car, I already chiong on North-South Highway - hitting 6000 RPM when I accelerate... ha ha...

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On 4/17/2020 at 11:05 AM, Ahtea said:

You feel that the Altis is really going at 90km/h is likely because Altis is light wright (at least for the earlier generations).

Did you try the same GPS in another car to see if the speed matches it speedo?

 

On 4/19/2020 at 10:09 PM, Apple-Tree said:

Oh, this one I know.  Korean Car followed European standard closely and they do not do localisation of features for others country one.  LTA never has a very specified on speedo, they only said car ought to have a speedo ba .....heee

Hence there is a built-in error of +5km/h into speedo lor.

As for the other error, GPS is ground speed, the assumption is that you are on leveled ground lor.  I would assumed you are driving a slightly slope road.  It is actually very difficult to find a really really flat road lor ........

Jap car generally don't have this feature lor.  Because if you are driving at 90km/h you confirmed cannot kenna a 90km/h speed cam ........ EXCEPT SLE.... ya.

My 2 Kia also have this FEATURE lor .....heeee

Hi all, I'mnot sure if anyone ans your Q yet. When I gotten my elantra oct 18, I notice this issue as well. Accordingly to my findings, hyundai put a +5-10% buffer from the smallest compatible rim size for the car to compensate in case if someone put a 17" rim(max supported) for the model, the speedo will be almost just right before it records a slower speed instead.

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