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Michelin Pilot Sport 4


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Not much of a diff in MIT or MIE. Tried both same same. Maybe wear the MIT last longer.

Side wall PS4 is softer. Need to pump higher PSI to maintain back what PS3 gave me.

My MIT lasted only 26k with normal driving and rotation every 10k.

 

The wear is on the inside of my tyre. Only realised it when I went to repair a puncture and also the tyre indicator is like 2mm above only.

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Same index but the construction of the sidewall is different also play a part. Load index is more like a guideline of the max weight its able to hold and the max speed legally. not how hard the side wall is.

 

that why you mention softer sidewall too. as compare to PSS even same index..

yup.

 

same size same load index,

u compare for example potenza to efficent grip.

very very big different,

if u pump the same pressure psi ,

your tyres will look very flat with the efficent grip

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yup.

 

same size same load index,

u compare for example potenza to efficent grip.

very very big different,

if u pump the same pressure psi ,

your tyres will look very flat with the efficent grip

 

It could be the design of the tyre which is more square.

 

I will not deviate from what was recommended as i am not tyre engineer.

 

PSS and PS4 same size same load index same pressure same look.

 

The feel is different.  PS4 has softer sidewall.  One i get used to the feeling, no diff to me.

 

Go up Cameron Highland can cup corner at 110 - 120km/h.

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It could be the design of the tyre which is more square.

 

I will not deviate from what was recommended as i am not tyre engineer.

 

PSS and PS4 same size same load index same pressure same look.

 

The feel is different.  PS4 has softer sidewall.  One i get used to the feeling, no diff to me.

 

Go up Cameron Highland can cup corner at 110 - 120km/h.

yup. 

 

wat i want to say is,

the load index got nothing to do with side wall soft or hard.

 

we can have 2 different tyres with same load index.

but 1 i with very soft sidewall, and 1 very stiff.

 

if in this case we cannot pump the same psi and expect the same performance. 

 

some time we follow exactly by the standard written on the car also not very accurate,

its a very rough guide only, have to try n error to see wat psi suit u best with that set of tyres

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Just changed 225/45R17 At hurry tyres $170. Was using PS3. Can’t really tell much yet but noise levels are improved.

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yup. 

 

wat i want to say is,

the load index got nothing to do with side wall soft or hard.

 

we can have 2 different tyres with same load index.

but 1 i with very soft sidewall, and 1 very stiff.

 

if in this case we cannot pump the same psi and expect the same performance. 

 

some time we follow exactly by the standard written on the car also not very accurate,

its a very rough guide only, have to try n error to see wat psi suit u best with that set of tyres

 

 

AFAIK,

The load index table, IIRC, is a standard.

On the car,  it is the manufacturer's recommendation.

 

I would say that they are never meant to be inaccurate or as a rough guide.

When there is trial and error to achieve a user's preference,  that is a deviation.

 

For example,   user change from a energy efficient non performance to a performance tyre that is not energy efficient.

The likely result will be improve in grip and increase in FC.

User deviate by increasing tyre pressure. FC decreases and grip decreases.

It is unlikely user will know how much grip has decrease as the grip improvement is much better than the original.

It could be the design of the tyre which is more square.

 

I will not deviate from what was recommended as i am not tyre engineer.

 

PSS and PS4 same size same load index same pressure same look.

 

The feel is different.  PS4 has softer sidewall.  One i get used to the feeling, no diff to me.

 

Go up Cameron Highland can cup corner at 110 - 120km/h.

 

IMHO, maybe need to be flat to have more contact on the road.  [laugh]

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It could be the design of the tyre which is more square.

 

I will not deviate from what was recommended as i am not tyre engineer.

 

PSS and PS4 same size same load index same pressure same look.

 

The feel is different.  PS4 has softer sidewall.  One i get used to the feeling, no diff to me.

 

Go up Cameron Highland can cup corner at 110 - 120km/h.

 

I also moved from PSS to PS4.  The best way to describe it is like moving from premium condom like Durex to some Desker Road brand.  Still good still can use, but its like made by 2 diff tyre companies.  For those who dont think its worth spending more $$ on premium tyre to get the best put of your car if u are the enthusiastic type of driver, then u r missing out alot.  PSS, which is PS4S now, is really at the top of its game in tyres.

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is it likely your set up causing the inside to wear faster?

My MIT lasted only 26k with normal driving and rotation every 10k.

The wear is on the inside of my tyre. Only realised it when I went to repair a puncture and also the tyre indicator is like 2mm above only.

 

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170 dam good price lei and yes, ps3 was noisy like a bitch.

 

Just changed 225/45R17 At hurry tyres $170. Was using PS3. Can’t really tell much yet but noise levels are improved.

 

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yup. 

 

wat i want to say is,

the load index got nothing to do with side wall soft or hard.

 

we can have 2 different tyres with same load index.

but 1 i with very soft sidewall, and 1 very stiff.

 

if in this case we cannot pump the same psi and expect the same performance. 

 

some time we follow exactly by the standard written on the car also not very accurate,

its a very rough guide only, have to try n error to see wat psi suit u best with that set of tyres

 

yes i agree, like i mention side wall has no relation with load index.

load index is more like the tested force and speed before the rubber will give way. as the amount of metal and reinforcement done is different for each index.

 

as for side wall for softer side wall u will feel more comfy and cushy vs harder sidewall more stiff and hard over the same kind of road feel. as one the impact is cushion off and another directly impacting back.

 

but when cornering the difference is opp way. softer wall give u the wobbly feel and the harder give u the very stable feel.

My MIT lasted only 26k with normal driving and rotation every 10k.

 

The wear is on the inside of my tyre. Only realised it when I went to repair a puncture and also the tyre indicator is like 2mm above only.

 

that because your PSI inflation and alignment are out.

u need to adjust around to find a right spot.

 

manufactures recommendation are guideline not a strictly follow item. 

just like the Fuel consumption rating. what the manufactures did test with was constant driving at 60-80km/h with 1 drive and 1/4 of fuel for some distance. this isn't real life.

same like 0-100 timing.

I also moved from PSS to PS4.  The best way to describe it is like moving from premium condom like Durex to some Desker Road brand.  Still good still can use, but its like made by 2 diff tyre companies.  For those who dont think its worth spending more $$ on premium tyre to get the best put of your car if u are the enthusiastic type of driver, then u r missing out alot.  PSS, which is PS4S now, is really at the top of its game in tyres.

 

the difference between the two ain't that much unless u track. there was a video test somewhere in previous post comparing the two models.

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is it likely your set up causing the inside to wear faster?

 

i went for alignment on stock suspension 8 months after i got my car.

 

then i decided on impulse to just order and install a set of lowering springs two weeks after that. The drop is roughly an inch.

 

went back to Kenny, he said no need to re-align so i didn't do anything.

 

so, maybe it could be my drop that caused the wear.

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that because your PSI inflation and alignment are out.

u need to adjust around to find a right spot.

 

manufactures recommendation are guideline not a strictly follow item. 

just like the Fuel consumption rating. what the manufactures did test with was constant driving at 60-80km/h with 1 drive and 1/4 of fuel for some distance. this isn't real life.

same like 0-100 timing.

 

i have a TPMS. i religiously maintain my tyre pressure.

 

as per my post above, maybe it could be my alignment. but that's just one factor. the other is the tyre wear as a whole, is down to within 2mm of the tyre wear indicator in the groove.

 

anyway i have since changed to coilovers and re-did the alignment. will monitor my current set's wear levels.

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i went for alignment on stock suspension 8 months after i got my car.

 

then i decided on impulse to just order and install a set of lowering springs two weeks after that. The drop is roughly an inch.

 

went back to Kenny, he said no need to re-align so i didn't do anything.

 

so, maybe it could be my drop that caused the wear.

from experience once u lower the car,

the camber confirm become negative ,

then will have inside wear.

 

since your tyres is expensive , my advice is next time when u change new set just pay abit for alignment and see the reading for the cambers.

 

normal car stock come confirm -0.3-0.5 .

if after lower become -0.5 to -1 still reasonable.

if reach -2 degree, your tyres wear very jialat 1

 

need to ajust back even if need to pay extra for the camber kit.

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from experience once u lower the car,

the camber confirm become negative ,

then will have inside wear.

 

since your tyres is expensive , my advice is next time when u change new set just pay abit for alignment and see the reading for the cambers.

 

normal car stock come confirm -0.3-0.5 .

if after lower become -0.5 to -1 still reasonable.

if reach -2 degree, your tyres wear very jialat 1

 

need to ajust back even if need to pay extra for the camber kit.

 

yup, i was willing to pay for alignment after i lowered. just that i was told there's no need to.

 

Alignment at Kenny, 24th May 2017, Stock Suspension (used for 5 months)

Front Camber: Left -0.36, Right -0.02

Rear Camber: Left -1.49, Right -1.47

 

After i lowered my car with springs, it became this

Front Camber: Left -1.35, Right -0.53

Rear Camber: Left -2.06, Right -2.00

 

i forgot to the the readings of my current coilovers (installed 1 month ago, ride height slightly taller)

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yup, i was willing to pay for alignment after i lowered. just that i was told there's no need to.

 

Alignment at Kenny, 24th May 2017, Stock Suspension (used for 5 months)

Front Camber: Left -0.36, Right -0.02

Rear Camber: Left -1.49, Right -1.47

 

After i lowered my car with springs, it became this

Front Camber: Left -1.35, Right -0.53

Rear Camber: Left -2.06, Right -2.00

 

i forgot to the the readings of my current coilovers (installed 1 month ago, ride height slightly taller)

 

Kenny's alignment rig is set up for degrees and minutes. so the Camber is read as Left: 1 Deg 35min , Right: 53mins

 

On stock suspension there is a 34min difference between right and left. and lowered difference about 42mins. not too big a diff.

 

And 60mins = 1 Deg. so you will never see 1Deg 60mins.

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yup, i was willing to pay for alignment after i lowered. just that i was told there's no need to.

 

Alignment at Kenny, 24th May 2017, Stock Suspension (used for 5 months)

Front Camber: Left -0.36, Right -0.02

Rear Camber: Left -1.49, Right -1.47

 

After i lowered my car with springs, it became this

Front Camber: Left -1.35, Right -0.53

Rear Camber: Left -2.06, Right -2.00

 

i forgot to the the readings of my current coilovers (installed 1 month ago, ride height slightly taller)

your is rwd? the inside wear is front or rear?

i got a old coe ls250, 

i know the rear toes can be ajusted, the rear camber forgot already .

 

anw if rear camber out and rear tyres wear inside,

if no inbuild ajustment allow, can forgot about it.

 

super expensive to modify for rear camber ajustment.

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your is rwd? the inside wear is front or rear?

i got a old coe ls250,

i know the rear toes can be ajusted, the rear camber forgot already .

 

anw if rear camber out and rear tyres wear inside,

if no inbuild ajustment allow, can forgot about it.

 

super expensive to modify for rear camber ajustment.

Yup rwd.

 

The wear is on the inside. I can't tell from front or reae cos I rotate by crossing down from front to rear, and move from rear straight up.

 

Toe is ok, can be adjusted. It's camber that's fixed and requires a camber kit which I'm not willing to buy

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I also moved from PSS to PS4.  The best way to describe it is like moving from premium condom like Durex to some Desker Road brand.  Still good still can use, but its like made by 2 diff tyre companies.  For those who dont think its worth spending more $$ on premium tyre to get the best put of your car if u are the enthusiastic type of driver, then u r missing out alot.  PSS, which is PS4S now, is really at the top of its game in tyres.

 

I also want PS4S.  But PS4S don't have 17".

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