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2016 Skoda Kodiaq


Aukang
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diesel got its pro and con.

Con

The particle filter is a big issue! If u don't drive long enough to heat up the filer it cannot clear off the carbon particle trapped and will cause CEL.

 

As for spark plug vs no spark plug, its because of diesel compression for Air to fuel ratio. the compression itself cause the fuel to detonate by itself, and its not diesel don't use plug but they use glow plug instead but normally for cold start.

 

And for diesel running till dry is a big issue unlike petrol you just need to top up and good to go. diesel u need to bleed and pump the diesel up which not many know how to do it.

 

Pro

High amount of torque avaliable at low rev. with TC now it more powerful and faster as compared.

Good FC. As the High compression mean it's more efficient in burning the fuel. and because of the torque lesser fuel is require to move the same load. that why diesel are normally use for towing stuff.

 

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diesel got its pro and con.

Con

The particle filter is a big issue! If u don't drive long enough to heat up the filer it cannot clear off the carbon particle trapped and will cause CEL.

 

As for spark plug vs no spark plug, its because of diesel compression for Air to fuel ratio. the compression itself cause the fuel to detonate by itself, and its not diesel don't use plug but they use glow plug instead but normally for cold start.

 

And for diesel running till dry is a big issue unlike petrol you just need to top up and good to go. diesel u need to bleed and pump the diesel up which not many know how to do it.

 

Pro

High amount of torque avaliable at low rev. with TC now it more powerful and faster as compared.

Good FC. As the High compression mean it's more efficient in burning the fuel. and because of the torque lesser fuel is require to move the same load. that why diesel are normally use for towing stuff.

Thx for the clear explanation. I admit I'm real ignorant to these facts, only know diesel cars got higher torque.

 

I'm not very conscientious with servicing. There was a time when I didn't drive much and lapsed 3 years between service appointments, but my car still ran properly.

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Thx for the clear explanation. I admit I'm real ignorant to these facts, only know diesel cars got higher torque.

 

I'm not very conscientious with servicing. There was a time when I didn't drive much and lapsed 3 years between service appointments, but my car still ran properly.

 

lapsing between service dont ring immediate danger. its more as a form of preventive maintenance to keep the engine health from the friction, due to heat break down in chemical the oil become less protective so it less protective and causes wear from the rubbing action of the movement. its matter of luck to lapse the servicing.

 

still can drive even u exceed the used mileage or years but in SG 10yrs cycle dont make us see the $ saving damage. even for those who exceed the 10yrs cycle normally will push it to wear and tear :)

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diesel got its pro and con.

Con

The particle filter is a big issue! If u don't drive long enough to heat up the filer it cannot clear off the carbon particle trapped and will cause CEL.

 

As for spark plug vs no spark plug, its because of diesel compression for Air to fuel ratio. the compression itself cause the fuel to detonate by itself, and its not diesel don't use plug but they use glow plug instead but normally for cold start.

 

And for diesel running till dry is a big issue unlike petrol you just need to top up and good to go. diesel u need to bleed and pump the diesel up which not many know how to do it.

 

Pro

High amount of torque avaliable at low rev. with TC now it more powerful and faster as compared.

Good FC. As the High compression mean it's more efficient in burning the fuel. and because of the torque lesser fuel is require to move the same load. that why diesel are normally use for towing stuff.

Regarding the diesel driving till empty tank and engines dies, most of the newer Diesel Cars have a bleed valve inside the engine bay, a bit of manual work of pumping the fuel(with the bleed valve) from the tank until diesel reaches the fuel rail then can start the engine, it does gets messy and smelly due to the smell of diesel but normally not many will still drive when fuel is under the 1/4 level and without looking for fuel station until the lights appears til the tank is empty, the car will go into a low fuel limp mode to save fuel.

 

From 1/4 to low fuel light to dry will easily be 100+km in a diesel car.

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Another thing to share...

 

I drove up to MY last week. I did find comfort mode to be better in Kampong area where the roads were rougher. 

 

After I came back to Singapore, I decided to change the drive mode to Eco without telling my wife and let her drove for a few days. I was happy that she did not complain any lack of power. That means Eco is usable. I personally find it less jumpy than normal and if you need to, you can press the pedal harder or shift to sport mode.

 

Now I'm running individual mode with Eco drive, comfort DCC (trying out whether I like it better in SG road) and normal steering (was using Sport for a month but find normal better if not on highway).

Hi,

 

Just to share something about Eco mode. I found that Kodiaq always reset the drive mode to D upon restarting the car even when you have it in Eco mode. Not sure why but this is not encouraging driver to drive in Eco mode.

 

I also would like to check with those with throttle controller. Is the acceleration the same as when you put the car into S mode without the higher rev gear change when the car is in normal mode?

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I also would like to check with those with throttle controller. Is the acceleration the same as when you put the car into S mode without the higher rev gear change when the car is in normal mode?

 

The throttle controller basically make the throttle signal to the ECU react faster (higher rate of change of the voltage). What a TC do is basically translating our slow movement of our foot to a faster electronic signal; which change the response of the car.

 

The S or ECO or whatever Mode of the TCU basically hold the shift point at different level. Meaning take for example (not Kodiaq) the ECO mode will up-shift say 1500 rpm the Sport mode will up-shift on 3500 rpm. 

 

So using a TC will make the throttle signal to reach these shift point "faster". These shift point never change; so you do need to rev the engine to the same shift point as before just a little bit more faster with a TC.

 

So technically under the SAME Mode, a TC will make the acceleration faster. 

 

IMHO, I doubt the response of ECO mode (with TC) will match S mode (without a TC).

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The throttle controller basically make the throttle signal to the ECU react faster (higher rate of change of the voltage). What a TC do is basically translating our slow movement of our foot to a faster electronic signal; which change the response of the car.

 

The S or ECO or whatever Mode of the TCU basically hold the shift point at different level. Meaning take for example (not Kodiaq) the ECO mode will up-shift say 1500 rpm the Sport mode will up-shift on 3500 rpm.

 

So using a TC will make the throttle signal to reach these shift point "faster". These shift point never change; so you do need to rev the engine to the same shift point as before just a little bit more faster with a TC.

 

So technically under the SAME Mode, a TC will make the acceleration faster.

 

IMHO, I doubt the response of ECO mode (with TC) will match S mode (without a TC).

Thanks, Bro. I thought Eco and S mode also affect throttle sensitivity apart from the shift point.
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I did some research on diesel cars and it appears that in Singapore's context, unless yearly mileage is quite high, any savings from lower FC will still not offset the additional road tax for a diesel car. Is this generally true?

 

For recent Skoda car models with diesel engines, are they of a newer technology that makes them less pollutive compared older diesel engine models? I read the diesel cars will start to get very pollutive after 3-4 years and maintenance starts to get more expensive versus petrol engines.

The diff in road tax for a 1.5l diesel vs 1.5l petrol is about $500 per year.

RON95 is about 50c more than diesel. Diesel typically gives u more than 25% better FC as well so u don’t really need to clock high mileage to gain savings.

 

My suggestion is that choose a car base on your needs, budget, drive and likeability and if it happens to be a diesel, don’t avoid it cos that is the least of the concern. When i bought my current car which is a diesel, I didn’t choose it cos it was a diesel but rather it ticked most of the boxes.

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The diff in road tax for a 1.5l diesel vs 1.5l petrol is about $500 per year.

RON95 is about 50c more than diesel. Diesel typically gives u more than 25% better FC as well so u donât really need to clock high mileage to gain savings.

 

My suggestion is that choose a car base on your needs, budget, drive and likeability and if it happens to be a diesel, donât avoid it cos that is the least of the concern. When i bought my current car which is a diesel, I didnât choose it cos it was a diesel but rather it ticked most of the boxes.

Thanks for the advice.

 

I saw a couple of YouTube videos on cleaning some internal parts of a diesel car (apparently it's not that DPF thingy) which has a lot of carbon built up.

 

That lengthy servicing process got me thinking of a diesels car is suitable for me.

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The diff in road tax for a 1.5l diesel vs 1.5l petrol is about $500 per year.

RON95 is about 50c more than diesel. Diesel typically gives u more than 25% better FC as well so u don’t really need to clock high mileage to gain savings.

 

My suggestion is that choose a car base on your needs, budget, drive and likeability and if it happens to be a diesel, don’t avoid it cos that is the least of the concern. When i bought my current car which is a diesel, I didn’t choose it cos it was a diesel but rather it ticked most of the boxes.

 

unless special tax on diesel changes.

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Hi Bros,just got my "bear" less than a week but notice the headlights internal form vapour after rain.l wonder any bros have this issue.

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Its quite normal for new cars. Should go away on its own after a couple of weeks.

 

Hi Bros,just got my "bear" less than a week but notice the headlights internal form vapour after rain.l wonder any bros have this issue.

 

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Hi Bros,just got my "bear" less than a week but notice the headlights internal form vapour after rain.l wonder any bros have this issue.

 

Not sure if it will go away, but according to the manual, it is normal. I get it sometimes even when there is no rain.

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The diff in road tax for a 1.5l diesel vs 1.5l petrol is about $500 per year.

RON95 is about 50c more than diesel. Diesel typically gives u more than 25% better FC as well so u donât really need to clock high mileage to gain savings.

 

My suggestion is that choose a car base on your needs, budget, drive and likeability and if it happens to be a diesel, donât avoid it cos that is the least of the concern. When i bought my current car which is a diesel, I didnât choose it cos it was a diesel but rather it ticked most of the boxes.

Exactly, i dont do high mileage but still decided to go for it cos it checked all n what i wanted within the price range
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Its quite normal for new cars. Should go away on its own after a couple of weeks.

Thanks for the advise.Will continue to monitor the issue.

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