2016 Skoda Kodiaq

[Kccar]

Any of the kodaiq 1.4 DSG version tried the 0-100km/h test? Although the spec states 9.7 secs, there is a youtube kodaiq review that tested and got it at 8.6 secs! 1 sec off the spec. 

 

Not sure if it's real.. 

 

Here is the video, at 1:42 secs of the video where the test was done and 8.6 secs!

 

 

Any adventurers of 1.4 DSG to test in Singapore??   

[badlammy]

Maybe because he tested using launch control.

[Lchong]

Maybe because he tested using launch control.

 

he tested it on sports mode 

[Othello]

Any of the kodaiq 1.4 DSG version tried the 0-100km/h test? Although the spec states 9.7 secs, there is a youtube kodaiq review that tested and got it at 8.6 secs! 1 sec off the spec. 

 

Not sure if it's real.. 

 

feel sad for the Kodiaq owners, they were obviously cheated and lied to 

Maybe because he tested using launch control.

 

means yours also #fakedata ?? can shave 1s off or not ? 

[Ody_2004]

Maybe because he tested using launch control.

 

MTL! later go Skoda Center to try! 

[FuzzBolst]

Dear Bros,

 

Just to update you on this issue. Yesterday I sent in my car to Skoda/Volkswagen service center for DiamondBrite paint protection package. I dropped my car in the morning 7.40 using the 24 hours key drop because I have to reach office early. I wrote about my door issue on the envelope on top of the paint protection schedule hoping that they can do both at the same time.

 

I got a call about 8.20 (my original schedule time)  and the service guy told me that he will send the car for inspection first to identify the door issue and send it for paint protection afterwards. He called me at least two more times. Once at about 12 noon to tell me that he managed to find the issue (something loose in the door handle or something) and the last one at about 16.20 to tell me that my car is ready for collection.

 

To my surprise, My wife showed showed me a checklist she received after she collected the car . It turns out that they did basic check on the car as well (brake, light, battery, tires and so on). This is my first encounter with Skoda/Volkswagen service center. All in all I find that they are quite good and professional.

 

The car black looks deeper after the paint protection. There is an extra bottle given for maintenance but given the lazy me, it may not get used. The car rattling noise is also solved.

 

During the first call, the service guy also mentioned that there are 2 dents in my car door (sibei heart pain, car not even 1 month). Today morning went for PDR in Toa Payoh. Problem resolved with $60 in about 20 mins.

 

All in all I'm a happy man now.

 

Last issue is the rims. I really hate the brake dust.Went to shop in UBI and ask how much is the trade in price for Skoda 19" rims only. They only value it at $400 which means I have to top up $1600 for the rims I want. Decided to think about it first. Is the trade in really so low? Next come to mind is to paint the rims which should cost around $500. Decision decision..

Dear Bros,

 

Just some sharing. I decided against the idea of painting my wheels because:

1. It takes time and more hassle

2. I may still not like the wheels after painting.

 

I went to research on wheels to change to. I wanted to stay on 19" and had a few criteria in mind:

1. I must like the design.

2. It cannot be worst than previous wheel.

3. I wanted the cost to be within my budget.

 

Out of the three criteria, I find number 2 was hardest to define and in the beginning I got caught up in the concept of how the wheels are manufactured (gravity cast, low cast, flow forming, forged) and was determined that flow formed wheels was the way to go (good mix of stronger, lighter and cost) but some flow formed wheels are cheaper than some other brands low cast wheels which got me confused. Is it just branding or are there other parameters? What does it mean by stronger? In the end I decided to focus on whether the wheels can handle the Kodiaq's load, suitable for Kodiaq and lighter than Kodiaq Triglav 19" wheels (14kg based on website).

 

Based on what I have read in the internet to able to handle the car's load you have to take the highest axle load defined (front or rear) and divided it by 2. This will be the minimum single wheel load rating. After researching the manual and checking car info in the driver's side B pillar ( which can be seen below), I think Kodiaq highest axle load is at the rear which is 1390kg (2.0 TSI). That translates to 700kg per wheels (I rounded it up to be safe).

 

 

This made it easier. I need to find wheels that is load rated 700kg above per wheel and lighter than 14kg. Some of the flow formed lighter wheels are rated below 700kg which I think is not suitable. Having said that other things come to mind, how reliable is the wheels load rating stated by the wheels manufacturers? What about wheel's width and offset? Is there any standard?

 

Further reading brought about JWL tested by VIA, TUV, ABE and ECE. They are basically different certifications for wheels. I also found that Germany seems to require the wheels sold there to be certified for the car model. If you look at the wheels manufacturer website in Germany or those in Europe, you will find the wheels certificate (certificates are in German language and it shows wheel specification like load, PCD, width and offset). I did find one thing odd, I found one of the AEZ wheels are certified for Kodiaq but the load rating is 675kg IIRC. I'm not sure why.

 

Anyway, I decided to look for wheels that are certified for Kodiaq. Maybe I was thinking too much but I just wanted to be sure that I'm not compromising safety for looks. In the end, I finally settled on these. 

 

 

Hope this helps someone.

Edited October 20, 2018 by FuzzBolst

[FuzzBolst]

Another thing to share...

 

I drove up to MY last week. I did find comfort mode to be better in Kampong area where the roads were rougher. 

 

After I came back to Singapore, I decided to change the drive mode to Eco without telling my wife and let her drove for a few days. I was happy that she did not complain any lack of power. That means Eco is usable. I personally find it less jumpy than normal and if you need to, you can press the pedal harder or shift to sport mode.

 

Now I'm running individual mode with Eco drive, comfort DCC (trying out whether I like it better in SG road) and normal steering (was using Sport for a month but find normal better if not on highway).

 

Edited October 20, 2018 by FuzzBolst

[pbswiss]

Thanks FuzzBolst for real life pic of the Kodiaq in the carpark lot. I've never seen a Kodiaq before so this pic really puts the size into perspective.

[FuzzBolst]

Thanks FuzzBolst for real life pic of the Kodiaq in the carpark lot. I've never seen a Kodiaq before so this pic really puts the size into perspective.

Your welcome, Bro.

 

Ask away if you have any questions. Lotsa helpful bros around.

[pbswiss]

Not sure if this Kodiaq review has been shared before, https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/official-new-car-reviews/193738-skoda-kodiaq-official-review.html .

 

It's the most comprehensive review I've came across for a RHD Kodiaq.

 

The review even covered the undercarriage of car. a bit like savage geese.

[Infohigh]

hi folks.

Curious on the FC for Kodiaq.

How are your average FC? The highest and lowest.

We are exploring on Kodiaq.

[Infohigh]

Impressive fuel consumption on highway back home.SmartSelect_20181003-150558_Gallery.jpg

Woah!

Not even hitting this in my current ride.

[pbswiss]

I did some research on diesel cars and it appears that in Singapore's context, unless yearly mileage is quite high, any savings from lower FC will still not offset the additional road tax for a diesel car. Is this generally true?

 

For recent Skoda car models with diesel engines, are they of a newer technology that makes them less pollutive compared older diesel engine models? I read the diesel cars will start to get very pollutive after 3-4 years and maintenance starts to get more expensive versus petrol engines.

[Wildpig8]

hi folks.

Curious on the FC for Kodiaq.

How are your average FC? The highest and lowest.

We are exploring on Kodiaq.

 

Exactly FC really depends on your daily route and your foot.

If going for 1.4, 10/11 km/L is average for the guys in the grp.

As for me, i am 70% highway due to workplace, average is 600km per tank, and mine is a 2.0.

My highest was 630km when the refill light came out. 

[Nlatio]

Exactly FC really depends on your daily route and your foot.

If going for 1.4, 10/11 km/L is average for the guys in the grp.

As for me, i am 70% highway due to workplace, average is 600km per tank, and mine is a 2.0.

My highest was 630km when the refill light came out. 

 

 

Yap, FC depend on daily route.... for me, mostly short city driving.... even my previous Vezel, which is suppose to have good FC.... my full tank cannot hit 400km..... now my 2L ride full tank also cannot hit 400km.... only time is when i highway for a few days then the FC will go beyong 400km!!

 

Now see open, just drive.......

 

So don't read too much about the FC.... if I tell people Vezel FC cannot hit 400km full tank, think nobody will buy.......     

[Infohigh]

Thanks. Just committed to the last silver earlier.

Thanks. Just committed to the last silver earlier.

[Dannnn]

I did some research on diesel cars and it appears that in Singapore's context, unless yearly mileage is quite high, any savings from lower FC will still not offset the additional road tax for a diesel car. Is this generally true?

 

For recent Skoda car models with diesel engines, are they of a newer technology that makes them less pollutive compared older diesel engine models? I read the diesel cars will start to get very pollutive after 3-4 years and maintenance starts to get more expensive versus petrol engines.

Diesel less spark plug to maintain. Why more exp? Unless u spoilt the dpf or something

[Hamburger]

Still so many is so ignorant on diesel engine.