Joleong Neutral Newbie October 5, 2019 Share October 5, 2019 Stonic SX is quite a nice to drive car in terms of it's quick pick up turbo speed in short distance and low Fuel consumption for 1.0L. However there's one design imperfection is it's front body is a little short it's difficult to gauge the distance between the front vehicle.. ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prataboy 3rd Gear October 5, 2019 Share October 5, 2019 5 hours ago, Joleong said: Stonic SX is quite a nice to drive car in terms of it's quick pick up turbo speed in short distance and low Fuel consumption for 1.0L. However there's one design imperfection is it's front body is a little short it's difficult to gauge the distance between the front vehicle.. You will get used to it. So how is your FC like? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joleong Neutral Newbie October 6, 2019 Share October 6, 2019 (edited) I usually pump $80 for my fuel and it can last for 12 days so for normal driving with the Auto Start & Stop system turned on. This car can be quite fun to drive but cannot do well at tailgating.. 😄 Edited October 6, 2019 by Joleong Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackknight88 1st Gear October 6, 2019 Share October 6, 2019 1 hour ago, Joleong said: I usually pump $80 for my fuel and it can last for 12 days so for normal driving with the Auto Start & Stop system turned on. This car can be quite fun to drive but cannot do well at tailgating.. 😄 $80 can go how many KMs? thks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joleong Neutral Newbie October 6, 2019 Share October 6, 2019 $80 approx. 540KM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackknight88 1st Gear October 6, 2019 Share October 6, 2019 1 hour ago, Joleong said: $80 approx. 540KM quite decent mileage .... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanket 2nd Gear October 15, 2019 Share October 15, 2019 Recently go jb and stuck in jam for abt 2 hours coming back really sweat while stuck in jam cos the clutch temperature kept rising. Damn scared car will shutdown. I got put neutral while stopping but didn’t seem to help much so in the end also kept at D while braking Creeping: I think it’s defined as half depressing brake while letting car move forward right? If so, I didn’t do that. I release brake fully to let car close the gap when gap opens up by the time I get out of the jam, the temperature gauge was just 3 bars from the top, which I think if reach, the car would shutdown Will changing the tiger nose section to a grille instead of the current plastic help to reduce the temp? Saw someone on sg stonic group on Facebook did it but not sure of the effectiveness Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prataboy 3rd Gear October 15, 2019 Share October 15, 2019 2 hours ago, Blanket said: Recently go jb and stuck in jam for abt 2 hours coming back really sweat while stuck in jam cos the clutch temperature kept rising. Damn scared car will shutdown. I got put neutral while stopping but didn’t seem to help much so in the end also kept at D while braking Creeping: I think it’s defined as half depressing brake while letting car move forward right? If so, I didn’t do that. I release brake fully to let car close the gap when gap opens up by the time I get out of the jam, the temperature gauge was just 3 bars from the top, which I think if reach, the car would shutdown Will changing the tiger nose section to a grille instead of the current plastic help to reduce the temp? Saw someone on sg stonic group on Facebook did it but not sure of the effectiveness 3 bars from the very top past the <hot> line? Was there any warning light indicated? I was in a ~1-hour jam recently in the evening and I observed the clutch temperature creeping up towards the <hot> line. Avoided creeping as much as I can. In the end, it was 2 bars above the normal temperature after extended drive, 2 bars below the <hot> line. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prataboy 3rd Gear October 15, 2019 Share October 15, 2019 On 10/6/2019 at 3:26 PM, Joleong said: $80 approx. 540KM So far, I have been averaging 480-490km for the 40+ litres. ~11-12km/litres. ~80% urban start-stop conditions. Have not got the chance to test on the NSHW yet. Perhaps can reach ~13+ as indicated by the trip computer during the expressway drives? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanket 2nd Gear October 15, 2019 Share October 15, 2019 7 hours ago, Prataboy said: 3 bars from the very top past the <hot> line? Was there any warning light indicated? I was in a ~1-hour jam recently in the evening and I observed the clutch temperature creeping up towards the <hot> line. Avoided creeping as much as I can. In the end, it was 2 bars above the normal temperature after extended drive, 2 bars below the <hot> line. Is there a hot line? I only remember that it was 3 bars from filling the whole bar. Don’t think there was a warning light also Is there any driving technique to control the rising temperatures if stuck in jam?0 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chubbs Clutched October 16, 2019 Share October 16, 2019 13 hours ago, Blanket said: Recently go jb and stuck in jam for abt 2 hours coming back really sweat while stuck in jam cos the clutch temperature kept rising. Damn scared car will shutdown. I got put neutral while stopping but didn’t seem to help much so in the end also kept at D while braking Creeping: I think it’s defined as half depressing brake while letting car move forward right? If so, I didn’t do that. I release brake fully to let car close the gap when gap opens up by the time I get out of the jam, the temperature gauge was just 3 bars from the top, which I think if reach, the car would shutdown Will changing the tiger nose section to a grille instead of the current plastic help to reduce the temp? Saw someone on sg stonic group on Facebook did it but not sure of the effectiveness I think if you release the brake without depressing the accelerator is also considered creeping. Should depress the accelerator slightly to allow the gear to be fully engaged. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roh96 6th Gear October 16, 2019 Share October 16, 2019 So 1 to 2 hrs of jam is enough to fry the clutch? The fear of overheating and having to watch the temp guage is no fun. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
teomingern 6th Gear October 16, 2019 Share October 16, 2019 Don't just release the brakes. When you do so, you feel the car creeping forward. Step on the accelerator, you'll feel a slight jerk which signals the full engagement of the clutch. Needs a bit of practice and being conscious of it. I agree it's not fun... my Dad's Fluence doesn't have this meter but maybe an electronic warning message. Never seen it. He's been jammed over 4 hours before. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanket 2nd Gear October 16, 2019 Share October 16, 2019 3 hours ago, teomingern said: Don't just release the brakes. When you do so, you feel the car creeping forward. Step on the accelerator, you'll feel a slight jerk which signals the full engagement of the clutch. Needs a bit of practice and being conscious of it. I agree it's not fun... my Dad's Fluence doesn't have this meter but maybe an electronic warning message. Never seen it. He's been jammed over 4 hours before. Ok maybe next time can try. But I hope I won’t need to go through it again Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferrytales 4th Gear October 16, 2019 Share October 16, 2019 hope the dct can last for full 10 years of ownership and not pull a stunt like what happened to the vw dsg 7 spd. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wormee 5th Gear October 16, 2019 Share October 16, 2019 19 hours ago, Prataboy said: 3 bars from the very top past the <hot> line? Was there any warning light indicated? I was in a ~1-hour jam recently in the evening and I observed the clutch temperature creeping up towards the <hot> line. Avoided creeping as much as I can. In the end, it was 2 bars above the normal temperature after extended drive, 2 bars below the <hot> line. Is there a clutch temperature gauge for Stonic? I thought you guys are referring to the coolant temperature gauge, which overheating situation will eventually shutdown the engine though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wormee 5th Gear October 16, 2019 Share October 16, 2019 (edited) 11 hours ago, Blanket said: Is there a hot line? I only remember that it was 3 bars from filling the whole bar. Don’t think there was a warning light also Is there any driving technique to control the rising temperatures if stuck in jam?0 My Audi friend taught me, when stuck in a jam, he switches to manual mode using the paddle shifters. This in terms engages the clutch to first gear and when you move off you manually shift to 2nd gear and down back to first when u stop (in a traffic jam situation so you probably go-stop-go-stop scenario). This will force the 1st gear to be engage and only shifts to 2nd gear by your action. In D, a DSG/DCT will be always in “half-clutch” position for 2nd gear getting ready to upshift. The manual action above can prolong the clutch-plates life but will not solve the issue especially DQ200 or dry-clutch equivalent. P.S. I do not drive a 7-speed DSG, yet. Might get one day. It is more fun to drive than traditional 6ATs. Cheers. Edited October 16, 2019 by Wormee Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanket 2nd Gear October 16, 2019 Share October 16, 2019 2 hours ago, Wormee said: My Audi friend taught me, when stuck in a jam, he switches to manual mode using the paddle shifters. This in terms engages the clutch to first gear and when you move off you manually shift to 2nd gear and down back to first when u stop (in a traffic jam situation so you probably go-stop-go-stop scenario). This will force the 1st gear to be engage and only shifts to 2nd gear by your action. In D, a DSG/DCT will be always in “half-clutch” position for 2nd gear getting ready to upshift. The manual action above can prolong the clutch-plates life but will not solve the issue especially DQ200 or dry-clutch equivalent. P.S. I do not drive a 7-speed DSG, yet. Might get one day. It is more fun to drive than traditional 6ATs. Cheers. If you’re just going to move like 1m to cover a small space in a jam, why not just leave it in gear 1 instead of upshifting to gear 2? Genuine question cos I have not driven a manual car before and this is my first car ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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