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Neutral Newbie

For a newbie, a brand new Jap car (or used one) is a better choice than COEd B Class.

 

Not that the B Class is more problematic, but it is better you have basic knowledge to trouble-shoot when it broke down, and have set aside a sum for repair / replacement of parts, if you have set your mind on one.

 

The last time I owned a car under my name was 10 years ago though I've not stopped driving other cars (not registered in my name)

 

So am wondering if a COEd B class would a good drive considering its mechanics and the costs for sprucing its engine and the usual servicing. Would it even be with it ?

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Neutral Newbie

Help With Honda Vezel Error Indicators and Error Codes - Returns After Being Cleared 

 

I own a 2014 Honda Vezel (RU1 model - not Hybrid). A few weeks back, after not driving the car for 2 days, the following malfunction indicators appeared on the instrument panel after driving for about 5 minutes:

 

  1. Malfunction Indicator Lamp (check engine light)
  2. Electronic Power Steering (EPS)
  3. Vehicle Stabiity Assist (VSA)
  4. Electronic Parking Brake System
  5. CTBA - City Brake Active System
  6. Brake System Indicator (circle with ! within)
  7. Flashing Electronic Parking Brake when car is in motion

A scan by Honda dealer revealed the following DTC error codes:

 

  1. P0171 - Fuel System too lean
  2. 83-11 - PCM (PGM-FI) Malfunction
  3. 61-11 - Modulator-Control Unit Power Source Circuit (IG) Low Voltage
  4. U0416-68 - VSA System Malfunction
  5. U0401-68 - PCM Malfunction
  6. U3000-49 - Internal Failure of the CTBA Unit
  7. U3006-16 - Power Supply Voltage too low
  8. U0401-68 - Incorrect start control functional fault

The Honda Dealer tech cleared the codes on Monday and it returned on Tuesday. They said they checked everything (whatever that meant) and they cleared it again on Tuesday. The errors returned on Sunday, after not driving the car for 24 hours (Saturday). After driving the car on Monday for more than 20 miles intermittently, the codes cleared themselves the evening when I started the car to head home.

 

After being down on the following weekend for one day, the codes are back and they have not come off. The Honda Dealer tech and two other mechanics are unsure of what the root cause is. I'm from South America and the car is only now becoming popular in my country. 

 

One tech is suggesting a software upgrade for the VSA system is probably needed, but I'm more inclined to think that it is more a battery/voltage issue that is tripping it out. 

 

Full disclosure: I have no experience in the mechanics of cars beyond what I have researched relating to this issue. Prior to purchasing, I was advised that a battery sensor is needed but that has been back-ordered for a while now.

 

Can anyone say if they have had this issue with their Vezel and what the solution was. Appreciate any insights from anyone with knowledge in this field. Thanks. 

 

P.S. - The only other anomaly leading up to this issue is that the tech that serviced the car used 10w30 oil instead of 0W20 that the car has always been using. The issue started approximately 2 weeks after driving with this different oil. Not sure if this has any relevance.

The oil has since been changed back.

 

 

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Neutral Newbie

Hi Bro, is your car under warranty from OW? Thank you for sharing such a review! I hope that your car is alright now! 

Negative review on Optima Werkz (Optima WORST) - Please do NOT bring your car here! Had to tow my car away after they damaged it

 

I apologize that this is a long post, but I would like to share my experience in more detail so other people do not get cheated by this workshop as I did.

 

I've been sending my Panamera in to Optima Werkz at 6 Kung Chong Rd for the last 2+ years after my warranty and service package expired at the Porsche Center. Mysteriously, a few times after I sent in the car for regular servicing, they noticed some problems with the car, claiming that they either: 1) heard a sound when they took the car for a test drive, 2) saw an error message when they plugged in their diagnostic system, or 3) saw a warning light which happens to appear on the car just the day after I sent it in. I gave them the benefit of the doubt the first few times out of good faith, but this time was something else. 

 

I sent my car in for regular servicing to do an oil change last week. The car was perfectly fine with no problems, driving smoothly. What I thought was a regular service turned into a $6,400 bill, and was told that the intake cam sprocket was damaged and had to be replaced, furthermore it was a "good thing" they discovered this problem now as it would have cost us alot more and required an engine overhaul if the problem went on undetected. One sales rep said that it was due to, you guessed it, the diagnostic system showing an error, while another sales rep said (unsurprisingly) that they heard a sound when they took the car for a test drive - clearly something was not adding up as they were giving different excuses. When I questioned them on why the bill was so expensive and sent them a link that was selling the same part for US$650 vs. their quote of S$2,100 per piece, they came back with a revised quote of $4,450 after giving more discounts - shaved $1,950 off the bill just because I asked! I felt really uncomfortable at this point as they were clearly being dishonest, and requested for them to assemble the car back together for me without fixing it. To my horror, they said the car could not be driven / the engine could not start as the part was broken. Upon questioning further, I realized they had broken the part when they opened the cover, that's why they could not fix it back, and that is why the car could not start anymore although it was functioning perfectly when I dropped it off. Upon learning that I wanted to tow my car away to another workshop to fix it, they panicked and immediately dropped the price to $2,000, saying that they will fix my car "at a loss" by throwing in complimentary labor etc. when what they should have done is own up to their mistake that they broke the part and changed it FOC. 

 

The best decision I've made is to tow my car away from Optima Werkz so that they never damage any part of my car ever again. For those out there looking for a car workshop, please please do NOT use them as they will create unnecessary problems and make a huge hole in your wallet for repair bills you did not even need. Your repair and servicing needs are better met elsewhere.

 

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Neutral Newbie

Hi Bros! im new here, getting my new car soon. So much to learn , anyone care to share what is the most important things to take note if your journey of taking care of car. thanks in advance

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Neutral Newbie

I’ve imported the first generation of the Honda grace hybrid GM4 from japan, 2015. It came with a Honda internavi premium club which is in Japanese. I tried google translate too, can’t figure out how to change the language to English. Help would be appreciated!!

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Hi everyone, i am new to this forum so couldn't post a new thread. I have got a 2004 Toyota Mark X JDM the car is working fine, but there is a Check Engine light on, i bought an ODB2 scanner BlueDriver but it isnt working and found out that this car may not support ODB2 at all.

 

I have read other threads on this forum guys reading Check Engine lights on Mark X, could someone please guide me which scanner can i use to diagnose the issue?

 

I also contacted Toyota support, but they said i need to contact the distributes where the car was manufactured, since that is Japan i have no luck contacting them.

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Hi everyone, i am new to this forum so couldn't post a new thread. I have got a 2004 Toyota Mark X JDM the car is working fine, but there is a Check Engine light on, i bought an ODB2 scanner BlueDriver but it isnt working and found out that this car may not support ODB2 at all.

 

I have read other threads on this forum guys reading Check Engine lights on Mark X, could someone please guide me which scanner can i use to diagnose the issue?

 

I also contacted Toyota support, but they said i need to contact the distributes where the car was manufactured, since that is Japan i have no luck contacting them.

 

Anyone? please help

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Neutral Newbie

Hello, newbie here.

 

I picked up a 1997 Mercedes Benz 230E. I drive it for perhaps only about one weekend a month.

 

Given that mileage accrual is low, it may take some time before it hits the mechanic’s recommended mileage for the next servicing. That is, it may take about 2 years or even more.

 

My question is: should I send the car for servicing at a frequency based on time lapse since the last servicing instead of based on mileage accrual?

 

If so, what is the recommended or maximum time I should allow, before bringing the car for its next servicing?

 

Thank you in advance!

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Neutral Newbie

I'm wondering what's the comparison of maintaining a BMW 1 vs Audi A1. I'm considering getting a 2-3 years old unit and hope to find some tips here. Thank you in advance

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Neutral Newbie

Hi guys,

 

Need some help - my VW scirocco 2010 seems to have suddenly had a "knocking" sound while in idle or driving.

 

Sound gets louder with acceleration.

 

https://vimeo.com/343820130

 

Please see the video for the knocking sound... any suggestions on possible issues with recommended work shops who specialize in VW? 

 

I know VAG is one but hoping to look for others that is more friendly on wallet.

 

Thank you.

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Turbocharged

Iâve imported the first generation of the Honda grace hybrid GM4 from japan, 2015. It came with a Honda internavi premium club which is in Japanese. I tried google translate too, canât figure out how to change the language to English. Help would be appreciated!!

AFAIK .. easier to go learn Japanese than get one
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Neutral Newbie

Hi there!

 

Im looking to purchase a car. My first ever.

Looking at C-HR hybrid.

 

Not sure which is more worthwhile.

 

USED (1year 10months old) at 50K COE or New car at prevailing COE (30k).

 

Price for them is $88K and $108K approx..

 

I need your expertise in this.

Thanks!

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Neutral Newbie

Hi all,

I was looking at getting a new car soon and I'm trying to decide between silver and black. I currently own a silver car and most of the time it does look fairly clean so after hours of washing and detailing, the improvement is only somewhat minor. On the other hand, I think that black cars look stunning and hence was looking at getting one. I would wash it every week and polish/wax it every few months or so.

 

I'd like to hear from people that own a black car or have owned a black car in the past. What are your thoughts? Did you guys regret getting a black car?

 

Thanks

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Neutral Newbie

Hi guys ... My first post here so please be gentle ... Hopefully the mods can make a topic out of this question :) ...

 

I recently got a used 2016 Volkswagen Tiguan and while moving a metal bedframe for someone today, I got two light surface scratches on the dashboard :( ... The scratches aren't deep and can only be seen in light from the right angle ... Still, I was wondering if there's any quick fix to completely fix them so that they're not visible anymore (to the extent possible without spending too much money) .. ? Thanks in advance for your help :)

 

Ty4SyJQ.jpg

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Hi,

I am in search of an old car plate but no luck with car plate sellers. Still awaiting reply from LTA on how to proceed. Anyone has suggestions on how I can go about to search for that old car plate? Looking at SGL515 (any alphabets behind is ok).

Thanks!

Edited by ChristineZAD
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