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60k Diy car maintenance qn (engine oil/atf/ coolant)


Nick2342
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To be honest stick to what is recommended. Cos even when you Google the Castrol Edge will appear more in the results.

 

How do you know SHU is better in protection? I mean unless you overhaul the engine and put the cylinder liners and crankshaft bearing journals under the microscope to really see what the protection is like.

 

Stick to what is recommended even for your ATF. It didn't go wrong in the 4 years ownership of your car so why change them?

O.o doesnt thicker oil have a higher temperature range? Ie 5w40 vs 5w30? Since car is turbocharged, sg quite warm and heavy foot sometimes, along with high mileage hence thinking to switch to w40.

 

Will stick to reccomended atf though as im not very sure atf wise.

 

Thank you!

That's because it is API CF

Since your car is 4 yr old, very likely need CJ-4

 

Check owner manual.

 

My friend 2011 Mitsubishi Triton using Total Quartz Diesel 7000 5w-30.

Thanks. It doesnt mention what api in the handbook though. Only oil grade Acea a/b5 and 5w30. Reccomended is Castrol Edge 5w30. Since is 2014 MY safe to say need CJ-4?
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O.o doesnt thicker oil have a higher temperature range? Ie 5w40 vs 5w30? Since car is turbocharged, sg quite warm and heavy foot sometimes, along with high mileage hence thinking to switch to w40.

 

Will stick to reccomended atf though as im not very sure atf wise.

 

Thank you!

 

You need to get your knowledge updated.

 

If engine clearance is designed for 30wt, any thicker oil will reduce the engine efficiency.

 

Go and read up on HTHS.

 

5w-30 can have the same HTHS as 0w-40.

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O.o doesnt thicker oil have a higher temperature range? Ie 5w40 vs 5w30? Since car is turbocharged, sg quite warm and heavy foot sometimes, along with high mileage hence thinking to switch to w40.

 

Will stick to reccomended atf though as im not very sure atf wise.

 

Thank you!

Thanks. It doesnt mention what api in the handbook though. Only oil grade Acea a/b5 and 5w30. Reccomended is Castrol Edge 5w30. Since is 2014 MY safe to say need CJ-4?

 

https://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-a5-b5-0w-30.html

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You need to get your knowledge updated.

 

If engine clearance is designed for 30wt, any thicker oil will reduce the engine efficiency.

 

Go and read up on HTHS.

 

5w-30 can have the same HTHS as 0w-40.

Too paranoid . For bread m butter cars, any reputable 30 or 40w oils can be used
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You need to get your knowledge updated.

 

If engine clearance is designed for 30wt, any thicker oil will reduce the engine efficiency.

 

Go and read up on HTHS.

 

5w-30 can have the same HTHS as 0w-40.

Ohh i see. Resistance to piston motion as piston have to move against heavier oil? But doesnt that happen if you switch to a much thicker oil grade alongside decreased fuel efficiency? Like w30 to 50 etc?

 

Just worried about using w30 cos heavy foot and turbo bearings might not remove heat enough since sg quite hot also to begin with.

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Ohh i see. Resistance to piston motion as piston have to move against heavier oil? But doesnt that happen if you switch to a much thicker oil grade alongside decreased fuel efficiency? Like w30 to 50 etc?

 

Just worried about using w30 cos heavy foot and turbo bearings might not remove heat enough since sg quite hot also to begin with.

 

My friend 2011 Mitsubishi Triton is using semi syn 10w-30.

 

He usually stretching his service interval longer than 5k km.

 

So far so good.

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Twincharged

Borrow this thread, how do you guys dispose off the engine oil ?

Bring to any Workshop,give a few Dollars..they will let you dispose.

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Supersonic

Bring to any Workshop,give a few Dollars..they will let you dispose.

Makes sense, some people didnt know this, just discard it into rubbish bins, which is wrong.

Thanks for sharing.

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(edited)

Ohh i see. Resistance to piston motion as piston have to move against heavier oil? But doesnt that happen if you switch to a much thicker oil grade alongside decreased fuel efficiency? Like w30 to 50 etc?

 

Just worried about using w30 cos heavy foot and turbo bearings might not remove heat enough since sg quite hot also to begin with.

If the oil is much thicker than what the car manual specifies, it may also damage the seals/gaskets other than increasing fuel consumption.

 

My car (turboed) needs 0w30 A5/B5, I searched high and low in Singapore, cannot find. Ended up settling for A3/B3 which means cannot last 20k km..... Anyway I change about once a year only around 10k less.

Edited by Volvobrick
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Bring to any Workshop,give a few Dollars..they will let you dispose.

Double profit. WS also sell the oil to used oil collector.
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Just bring to any industrial workshop and leave it there.

 

Spare them the trouble to thank you.

 

The used oil is collected and recycled to be sold oversea. 

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Most Diesel engine with DPF use low ash low S EO lor.  So ACEA C1/2/3/4.  I use E7/E9.

 

R yours Adblue ? ANW, best read your service manual carefully. 

 

 

As for ATF, for all my rides, hardly change.  My previous ride drive 238kkm over 10 years only change TWICE.  KIA service manual say Inspect wor, the manual even say if not RED is OK one as over time the dye deteriorate wor. As long as the ATF is clear, a light brownish is OK.  If it is very dark or got particles then it is too late anyway.

 

As for EO schedule, some countries is 12kkm and some is 15kkm. I change EO every 15kkm or 6 months or whichever later.  My budget only call for 2 EO change PER Year.

 

So far so good.

 

For my current, got some kind of ATF but NO Need to change wor.

 

 

Approaching 60k+ svc soon. Will be trying to get parts myself to save cost
Car is 4 yr old 1.6 turbo diesel.

Currently using Castrol Edge 5w30 but thinking to change to Shell Helix Ultra 5w40 as offer better protection against high rev/temps esp in hot weather.
However not very sure about ACEA grade A5/B5 which is what the Edge is rated at. The SHU is rated at A3B3.. from what i gather it refers to viscosity? Is the SHU compatible with the current engine? From what i gather,

ATF wise.. the handbook says it recommends BOT 341 fluid. Not sure what ATF is good.. Using Volvo MPS6.

Thanks in advance

 

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If the oil is much thicker than what the car manual specifies, it may also damage the seals/gaskets other than increasing fuel consumption.

 

My car (turboed) needs 0w30 A5/B5, I searched high and low in Singapore, cannot find. Ended up settling for A3/B3 which means cannot last 20k km..... Anyway I change about once a year only around 10k less.

 

Mobil1 Extended Performance xw-30 is A5/B5.  Mxtrading has stock.

 

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(edited)

Are you going to change your own oils/coolant in MSCP or buy oil and find someone else to do?

 

1) For engine oil, refer to your handbook for all the required velosity for both extreme use and normal use. From there choose the velosity which is meant for extreme use. In Singapore climate, usually I would just follow the guidelines for extreme use. As for oil standards, follow the guide and google the engine oil you intending to use. Should be able to find the information of the product spec sheet

 

2) ATF, 

seems like your gearbox is using JWS3324 similar spec

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=243900

Edited by Goldenvodka
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If the oil is much thicker than what the car manual specifies, it may also damage the seals/gaskets other than increasing fuel consumption.

 

My car (turboed) needs 0w30 A5/B5, I searched high and low in Singapore, cannot find. Ended up settling for A3/B3 which means cannot last 20k km..... Anyway I change about once a year only around 10k less.

 

Ah i see. Like the oil not going into seals/gaskets etc then not enough lubrication? But if slightly thicker wont be much of an issue? w30-40 is not much of a diff right?

 

Mine also around there, 10-15km during AD.. Now warranty finish hence trying to diy or 3rd party workshop if cannot in order to save cost.

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Most Diesel engine with DPF use low ash low S EO lor.  So ACEA C1/2/3/4.  I use E7/E9.

 

R yours Adblue ? ANW, best read your service manual carefully. 

 

 

As for ATF, for all my rides, hardly change.  My previous ride drive 238kkm over 10 years only change TWICE.  KIA service manual say Inspect wor, the manual even say if not RED is OK one as over time the dye deteriorate wor. As long as the ATF is clear, a light brownish is OK.  If it is very dark or got particles then it is too late anyway.

 

As for EO schedule, some countries is 12kkm and some is 15kkm. I change EO every 15kkm or 6 months or whichever later.  My budget only call for 2 EO change PER Year.

 

So far so good.

 

For my current, got some kind of ATF but NO Need to change wor.

 

Yes, car is speced with DPF. Manual says ACEA A5/B5 5W30.. Is ok to use A3/B3?

 

Nope, no adblue treatment.

Manual says the the ATF is for life of the car, no need change but of course,  like all fluid will deteriorate as you say and collect particles from friction andwear.. hence change atf maybe once since not going keep car long term perhaps. Anything that prevents more expensive maintenance down the road is good.

 

 

 

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Are you going to change your own oils/coolant in MSCP or buy oil and find someone else to do?

 

1) For engine oil, refer to your handbook for all the required velosity for both extreme use and normal use. From there choose the velosity which is meant for extreme use. In Singapore climate, usually I would just follow the guidelines for extreme use. As for oil standards, follow the guide and google the engine oil you intending to use. Should be able to find the information of the product spec sheet

 

2) ATF, 

seems like your gearbox is using JWS3324 similar spec

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=243900

 

Not sure.. leaning more towards buying own oil and do at 3rd party as dont have the tools and space. It states 0W30 A5/B5 for adverse conditions. Thinking about using SHU 5W40 but is A3/B3.

 

Thanks. For ATF any ATF that conforms to the JWS3324 spec can use?

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