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60k Diy car maintenance qn (engine oil/atf/ coolant)


Nick2342
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Yeah but some shops think they are smart. Use air gun and then followed by torque wrench to tighten. Ha. What’s the point.

 

To save time, tyre man will set the air wrench torque setting to low  so as to be able to run the lug nut into position. Once all the lug nuts are in , the final tigthening will be with a torque wrench.

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My friend is using Total Quartz Diesel 7000 10w-30. It cost SGD70 (oil only).

 

Supposed to do oil change every 5k km (it’s semi-syn oil). But always drag till 10k km.

 

Good quality Diesel EO is hard to find.

 

Ps. I found C1 & C4 oil

http://www.mxtradings.com/Fuchs.htm

 

Diesel engines are subjected to very high compression pressure ( 10 x more than petrol engines), temp and with high rotating forces , the bearing are again subject to more twisting forces. So the lub must be replaced as when the time it up so as to prevent excessive overhaul repair cost.

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(edited)

 

thanks!

 

managed to find this

 

https://www.lazada.sg/products/castrol-edge-5w-40-4l-acea-c3-i237793382-s364222710.html?ef_id=CPmGluuz2-ICFUeFjwod5PUOEQ:G:s&s_kwcid=AL

No harm using SHU for one oil change interval? arnd 10-15k? Will it affect DPF by a lot if i am using slightly higher SAPS oil than the A5/B5 Castrol Edge?

Edited by Nick2342
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Twincharged

To save time, tyre man will set the air wrench torque setting to low so as to be able to run the lug nut into position. Once all the lug nuts are in , the final tigthening will be with a torque wrench.

That’s the idea case, but sadly it probably never happens.
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thanks!

 

managed to find this

 

https://www.lazada.sg/products/castrol-edge-5w-40-4l-acea-c3-i237793382-s364222710.html?ef_id=CPmGluuz2-ICFUeFjwod5PUOEQ:G:s&s_kwcid=AL

No harm using SHU for one oil change interval? arnd 10-15k? Will it affect DPF by a lot if i am using slightly higher SAPS oil than the A5/B5 Castrol Edge?

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4111008/1

 

You better check how much DPF cost.

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Hypersonic

thanks!

 

managed to find this

 

https://www.lazada.sg/products/castrol-edge-5w-40-4l-acea-c3-i237793382-s364222710.html?ef_id=CPmGluuz2-ICFUeFjwod5PUOEQ:G:s&s_kwcid=AL

No harm using SHU for one oil change interval? arnd 10-15k? Will it affect DPF by a lot if i am using slightly higher SAPS oil than the A5/B5 Castrol Edge?

I always avoid SHU, always it is one of the lousy EO.

Engine get rough at quite low engjne oil mileage.

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Diesel engines are subjected to very high compression pressure ( 10 x more than petrol engines), temp and with high rotating forces , the bearing are again subject to more twisting forces. So the lub must be replaced as when the time it up so as to prevent excessive overhaul repair cost.

Most ppl abuse pickup 1 la.

 

It’s a matter of whether using good or bad oil.

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(edited)

 

yup i know.. But since alr bought the oil.. LL.. Just use for this oil change and the next after go back to castrol 5W40 ACEA C3 should be fine right? Short term use only (10k or lower) and not long term accumulation over several oil changes.

 

 

Edited by Nick2342
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yup i know.. But since alr bought the oil.. LL.. Just use for this oil change and the next after go back to castrol 5W40 ACEA C3 should be fine right? Short term use only and not long term accumulation

Should be ok since you are using a/b-standard oil from day 1.

 

Only C1/C4 is low SAPS.

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(edited)

Should be ok since you are using a/b-standard oil from day 1.

 

Only C1/C4 is low SAPS.

 

Thanks. [thumbsup]  Is there any precautions i should take while using this higher SAPS oil in the meantime? Try to do more regens?

 

Will try to source for Castrol ACEA C1/C4 5W40 for next round.

Edited by Nick2342
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Thanks. [thumbsup] Is there any precautions i should take while using this higher SAPS oil in the meantime? Try to do more regens?

 

Will try to source for Castrol ACEA C1/C4 5W40 for next round.

Read the link I post previously. No way to get rid of SAPS within DPF.

 

Good luck in your oil search.

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(edited)

 

Oil like quite headache.. Protect against heat.. use thicker oil.. but then have extra ash.. Hard to find the best of both worlds.

 

IMHO,  actually it is not the protection against heat but rather removal of heat.

A lower viscosity engine oil is thinner and will flow faster thus heat is "removed" quicker.

Protection against wear,  you will need an engine oil has good HTHS.

 

Probably that is why there is ACEA A5/B5.

Edited by Kklee
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Thanks. [thumbsup] Is there any precautions i should take while using this higher SAPS oil in the meantime? Try to do more regens?

 

Will try to source for Castrol ACEA C1/C4 5W40 for next round.

You a paranoid person?
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You misunderstood. I still got my ATF changed at a workshop. But because mine was the first batch of 6 speed gearboxes in SG, I had to show them the section in the service manual on how to drain and fill ATF from which drain and fill bolt.

 

General rule of thumb, you refill exact volume that is drained. That way, you can never do any harm to the gearbox.

 

Your knowledge of automatic transmission also needs to be updated. Kia's 6 speed gearbox has the ATF filter deep inside the gearbox. Changing it means the entire gearbox has to be opened up. It is not as easy as the Toyota 4 speed that I am driving now where there is a dedicated cover to open to access the ATF filter.

 

To DIY Auto transmission  oil drain and replacement of fresh oil, is no easy task unless one have access to use of vehicle lift and ATF dispenser.

 

Most professional mechs will drop the transmission oil pan to drain, do cleaning and replace the filter. Replacing the new ATF into the  transmission ( most of the filling plug is located at the lower side of the AT ) must be carried out with pressure dispenser and with the correct adapter screwed into position to prevent oil flow-out.. This hydraulic-tight arrange will allow the AT to be filled to the desired level.

 

Mechanics without proper tools , the chance of introducing dirt into the AT is high and the high possibility of not filling up to the desired volume.

 

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You misunderstood. I still got my ATF changed at a workshop. But because mine was the first batch of 6 speed gearboxes in SG, I had to show them the section in the service manual on how to drain and fill ATF from which drain and fill bolt.

 

General rule of thumb, you refill exact volume that is drained. That way, you can never do any harm to the gearbox.

 

Your knowledge of automatic transmission also needs to be updated. Kia's 6 speed gearbox has the ATF filter deep inside the gearbox. Changing it means the entire gearbox has to be opened up. It is not as easy as the Toyota 4 speed that I am driving now where there is a dedicated cover to open to access the ATF filter.

 

Tku for yr adv, I was trained as a heavy diesel engine mechanic in the later 1960's and spend  than 6 yrs as trainer / lecturer. By the way I am already near to 70yrs old. If I have offend you pl accept by apology. Have a nice day.

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None taken.

 

Just updating the current trend of transmission design to you.

 

They want it as compact as possible, as small as possible, as maintenance free as possible. But we all know the maintenance free part is bullsheet as far as moving fluids between assemblies are concerned.

 

Tku for yr adv, I was trained as a heavy diesel engine mechanic in the later 1960's and spend  than 6 yrs as trainer / lecturer. By the way I am already near to 70yrs old. If I have offend you pl accept by apology. Have a nice day.

 

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