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Accident Insurance Claim - Total Loss! Help!

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Insurance claim aside.

 

Will TS accept a car that has undergone a car with a $65k repair bill?

 

I would not for safety reason.

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When you like this write, I assume you already talk a few rounds with the insurer lor, 

 

-Total loss because the impact has affected your engine, the repair is going to be extensive lor.  It is not just change a brand new engine solve the problem, the chassis crumble zone is also triggered or affected.  This is rule one, touch engine, confirmed declared as total loss.

 

-Airbag triggered is another problem, it just said that you are driving at least 40km/h which the car BCM will armed the airbag.  You may end up with a less than 100% case lor.  If a typical road is 60km/h, crossing at 40km/h is also too fast.  If your car is a newer model, the BCM would be smart enough to sense a sharp deceleration not tripping the airbag. They calculate instantaneous speed.

 

-Repair at AD, always problem lor. 65K cannot be just change bumper and some patch work one

 

 

I think the insurer would have give you a dateline to accept offer, if the offer lapse, then courts case lor.

 

 

The highest claim I ever done is 42K for my Kia Carens lor ........ 30K on repair, 3k loss of use and rest legal fee. the car is 4 yrs old.

 

 

Hi Seniors..

Need your advise on the below:
I was involved in a cross junction traffic accident whereby I was driving straight towards a junction when the greenlight is in my favour. I hit a right turn car. My front bumper is badly damaged with engine and passenger air bags activated.
The car is quoted 65k to repair at authorised dealer. As my car has a high parf of 80k and a resale same car is going at ard 100k. The opp insurance company treat this case as a total loss.
As much as i will prefer to repair the car..thereis now no other offer from other workshop to take up this job.
What other alternatives are available to me? As a total loss write off will be at my disadvantage?
Appreciate your constructive comments please.
Thanks

 

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When you like this write, I assume you already talk a few rounds with the insurer lor,

 

-Total loss because the impact has affected your engine, the repair is going to be extensive lor. It is not just change a brand new engine solve the problem, the chassis crumble zone is also triggered or affected. This is rule one, touch engine, confirmed declared as total loss.

 

-Airbag triggered is another problem, it just said that you are driving at least 40km/h which the car BCM will armed the airbag. You may end up with a less than 100% case lor. If a typical road is 60km/h, crossing at 40km/h is also too fast. If your car is a newer model, the BCM would be smart enough to sense a sharp deceleration not tripping the airbag. They calculate instantaneous speed.

 

-Repair at AD, always problem lor. 65K cannot be just change bumper and some patch work one

 

 

I think the insurer would have give you a dateline to accept offer, if the offer lapse, then courts case lor.

 

 

The highest claim I ever done is 42K for my Kia Carens lor ........ 30K on repair, 3k loss of use and rest legal fee. the car is 4 yrs old.

Quote

 

If a typical road is 60km/h, crossing at 40km/h is also too fast.

 

Unquote

 

Could you elaborate on the above? What would be the appropriate speed?

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one can only negotiate for more. the PARF is 80k and a similar model is 100k the insurance loss is only 20k. no way will they ever repair and cough out 65k

 

try to bargain for more. try 25k. dont forget you still have to add in medical.

Yes. Thats the case now.

http://motorcarinsurancesg.com/faq/#nineteen

 

19. If My Car Is Stolen or Totally Damaged, How Will I Be Compensated?

If your car is damaged beyond economical repair, stolen or destroyed by fire, the insurer will compensate you by sending you a cheque for the market value of your vehicle at the time of loss. Some insurers will deliver a new car (of the same make & model) to you if your vehicle is still within the limited warranty period.

For some insurers, they have an additional protection package (at a minimal premium) that will not total loss your vehicle even if the damaged vehicle is beyond economical repair unless LTA certified it is not safe to drive.

The cheque u mentioned wont be the mkt value of the car. If u scrap the car.. u get your own parf. The cheque amount is the difference between the parf and the mkt value of the model.

When you like this write, I assume you already talk a few rounds with the insurer lor,

 

-Total loss because the impact has affected your engine, the repair is going to be extensive lor. It is not just change a brand new engine solve the problem, the chassis crumble zone is also triggered or affected. This is rule one, touch engine, confirmed declared as total loss.

 

-Airbag triggered is another problem, it just said that you are driving at least 40km/h which the car BCM will armed the airbag. You may end up with a less than 100% case lor. If a typical road is 60km/h, crossing at 40km/h is also too fast. If your car is a newer model, the BCM would be smart enough to sense a sharp deceleration not tripping the airbag. They calculate instantaneous speed.

 

-Repair at AD, always problem lor. 65K cannot be just change bumper and some patch work one

 

 

I think the insurer would have give you a dateline to accept offer, if the offer lapse, then courts case lor.

 

 

The highest claim I ever done is 42K for my Kia Carens lor ........ 30K on repair, 3k loss of use and rest legal fee. the car is 4 yrs old.

What is the 1) parf 2)mkt value of a 4year old carens at the point in time?

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Think is the workshop who will file the 3rd party claim and the insurers will sort it out themselves.

 

When I was involved in an accident 2 years ago, I was given 3 choice

1) Claim own damage

2) File 3rd party claim

- no repair will be done until the other party approve the 3rd party claim

3) Claim own damage and file for 3rd party claim

- Pay excess up front and start repair. The 3rd party claim will take a few months to settle

 

I went for option 3.

Paid the excess and proceed with repair while filing for 3rd party by workshop.

Eventually Insurance companies settled at 80/20. My NCD not affected. Workshop sent me the cheque for refund of excess + loss of use.

 

I have to agree with Sx4falcon caused this is the fastest way (even on the assumption that your insurance lost your car) your insurance will do all the leg work for you (if i m not wrong your insurance can even help in claiming your loss of use). No point waiting and it will make the siutation worse if you have outstanding loan on your ride...good luck

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Aiya, when the airbag triggered simply said you at least drive at MORE THAN 40 lor ...... is it 41 ? 45 ? 55 ? Confirmed CANNOT be 39 lor.

 

When you are the surveyor, day in day out is accident watch ...... you can get a good number lor. BCM also very smart one these days.....

 

 

My carens on expressway ....... 90......ebrake bang.  Airbag not triggered lor. The head smashed lor and  best 1 or 2 inch gap to the engine lor.  So repair hor.  42K, I said I take money as total loss lor.  Insurer say no wor.  Repair. Actually, repair shop claim ANOTHER 5K said VITAS failed, rear wheel misaligned - Change all.

 

 

Authorized repair shop.

 

 

It is a clear sign of speeding lor.  Show video lor ?  Or CAM suddenly spoil lor.

 

Insurance claim these days is not that straight forward one, it is exact science.  Yes. 100% and your airbag is triggered ....... let play.

 

 

OK. Bro, you are approaching a junction, a car in the opposite already at marked turning bay and stopped.  How do you response ?

 

Bro, you are approaching a junction, a car in the opposite is moving slowly into the right turn lane, with good chance of entering a marked turning bay.  How do you response ?

 

Is your response the same ?

 

 

Quote

If a typical road is 60km/h, crossing at 40km/h is also too fast.

Unquote

Could you elaborate on the above? What would be the appropriate speed?

 

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OK.  The year is 2014.  Correction it is 6 years old.

 

It is the only time I drive a car for 5 years and still sell at a profit.  Market price 40~45K. New carens 68888 in 2008, very famous number Stream and Wish 69888.  By 2014 Caren new one cost into 100K ??

 

PARF is always 10~12K. COE 16++K. I scrapped in 2017 for PARF 9400 lor.

 

It is a chain collision.  Front assessment is  18K, owner try to claim 32K - My insurer offered 20K, owner never take up after 6months lapse.  Courts case, my insurer let me off the hook.  I kept my NCD.  All lawyer letter send to insurer. Anyway, never received a lawyer letter before, probably I look cute, honest, down to Earth etc.  I am not even pushy lor.

 

I claimed behind 42+5K.  Why I need to know ?

 

1 week of panic, of the total amount claim 19K of liability is UNCLEAR wor.  Anyway, it is cleared lor.  I only got a 2K++ for loss of use lor.

 

I went to an Authorized Repair Shop, not an Authorized Distributor.  I can actually choose an AD, but I didn't lor.

 

 

 

 

 

Yes. Thats the case now.
The cheque u mentioned wont be the mkt value of the car. If u scrap the car.. u get your own parf. The cheque amount is the difference between the parf and the mkt value of the model.
What is the 1) parf 2)mkt value of a 4year old carens at the point in time?

 

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Claim ownself and claim 3rd party, the repair is different lor.

 

Claim 3rd party is repair until solid solid while claim ownself is repair until solid lor or at least look solid.

 

I never claim ownself before, but I heard own insurer will open tender for repair lor.  Open tender means lowest bidder get lor.

 

 

 

Claim 3rd party when the liability is uncleared cause the case to be pending lor or top-up the difference.

 

Like TS, with a PARF80K should have some legal adviser on standby ba ? 

 

My new Carens PARF at scrap only 7.5K ........ heeee, I everything OK one.

 

 

 

Think is the workshop who will file the 3rd party claim and the insurers will sort it out themselves.

 

When I was involved in an accident 2 years ago, I was given 3 choice

1) Claim own damage

2) File 3rd party claim

- no repair will be done until the other party approve the 3rd party claim

3) Claim own damage and file for 3rd party claim

- Pay excess up front and start repair. The 3rd party claim will take a few months to settle

 

I went for option 3.

Paid the excess and proceed with repair while filing for 3rd party by workshop.

Eventually Insurance companies settled at 80/20. My NCD not affected. Workshop sent me the cheque for refund of excess + loss of use.

 

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Posted (edited)

Hi Seniors..

 

Need your advise on the below:

I was involved in a cross junction traffic accident whereby I was driving straight towards a junction when the greenlight is in my favour. I hit a right turn car. My front bumper is badly damaged with engine and passenger air bags activated.

The car is quoted 65k to repair at authorised dealer. As my car has a high parf of 80k and a resale same car is going at ard 100k. The opp insurance company treat this case as a total loss.

As much as i will prefer to repair the car..thereis now no other offer from other workshop to take up this job.

What other alternatives are available to me? As a total loss write off will be at my disadvantage?

Appreciate your constructive comments please.

Thanks

Hi, I have the same situation in 2013.

 

My car was badly damaged. Accident happened in North south highway in Malaysia. I called AIG and they activate a tow truck to tow back to SG. Cost $1400.

 

Back in SG, surveyor came and assess the damage. A quote by authorised dealer is $95k including a brand new engine. Surveyor noted the quote and AIG deem it as “Not Economical to repair” Total Loss. Authorised dealer also advice me to scrap it as not worth to repair. But actually, it is becos they dont want to have any issues after repair.

 

I managed to find a workshop and they willing to repair for me. I tow the car to the workshop and they assess the total cost of repair.

 

I then met with AIG Claims officer. She gave me 2 options.

 

1) Deem as total loss under “Non Economical To Repair”

2) They will base on the highest selling price listed in SGCarMart. Then minus off the current parf value. Balance will be used for the repair at outside workshop.

 

If i choose option 2, AIG will payout the balance and they will cancel the policy. I remember that time my payout balance is $39-40k as I choose Option 2. I did not choose option 1 is because I still have outstanding loan, and it is insufficient to clear the loan. That is also why it is not advisable to buy a car with full loan, full tenure. A great lesson learnt.

 

The workshop quoted me $42k using back same engine as there is no damage. They say authorise dealer will quote high cos they dont want to repair at all. Will have many issues after repair.

 

I then begin to look for another insurer. Called more than 5 and they dont want to cover this “total loss” car.. and luckily, Aviva willing to cover me.

 

And then i drove the car for 3yrs plus and trade in to dealer. He say will scrap... but end up sell in open market.

 

There is a difference between “Not Economical to Repair” and Total Loss.

 

Hope this helps.

 

If u need that workshop who helped me, i can refer u.

Edited by sHy3r
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want to vomit, lor here lor there......

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Hi Seniors..

 

Need your advise on the below:

I was involved in a cross junction traffic accident whereby I was driving straight towards a junction when the greenlight is in my favour. I hit a right turn car. My front bumper is badly damaged with engine and passenger air bags activated.

The car is quoted 65k to repair at authorised dealer. As my car has a high parf of 80k and a resale same car is going at ard 100k. The opp insurance company treat this case as a total loss.

As much as i will prefer to repair the car..thereis now no other offer from other workshop to take up this job.

What other alternatives are available to me? As a total loss write off will be at my disadvantage?

Appreciate your constructive comments please.

Thanks

 

I have read your post and understand your frustration. One thing you have yet to consider is the aftermath of such a repair. 

 

An accident car after such a huge impact can never be repaired back to its original state. I am 100% certain breakdowns will occur and nitty gritty issues will surface for the remaining lifespan of the car. Is it worth going through the hassle and deal with these issues? How long do you think workshop will honour the parts repair/ replacement should any issues happen after the car has been reinstated?

 

Can the reinstated car be truly safe for you and your family members after the chassis of the car has been compromised?

 

You have to move on and think that repairing the vehicle is the least ideal solution and move towards claiming for the total of loss of the vehicle. Since it will be a third party claim, substantiate your claim via compelling evidence to reduce/eliminate your liability. Engage legal advice independently or via. the workshop to negotiate on the claim if necessary.

 

"The cheque u mentioned wont be the mkt value of the car. If u scrap the car.. u get your own parf. The cheque amount is the difference between the parf and the mkt value of the model."

 

The most ideal is to obtain payout equivalent to purchase of the second hand car of the same make, model and remaining COE year.

 

There will always be markup in the secondhand car market, else how would the car dealers survive? Take the money, go to the car market and negotiate for your next ride.

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i think i more or less understand TS problem, 

 

say your car left  2 years cost only 10k on the market.

but is involve in a accident, to fully repair back the car need 20k.

 

under the law i believe there is something like if its not worth it to repair,

 

the opposition insurance( the insurance that is being claim ) can choose to pay up only the full value

of the car that is worth from market price.

(i think there is such thing around, and it sound very unfair to driver esp if u are the victim )

 

if its really like this no workshop would take up the task, cos they might be only able to claim 10k,

but need to spend 20k to repair.

 

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Quote

 

If a typical road is 60km/h, crossing at 40km/h is also too fast.

 

Unquote

 

Could you elaborate on the above? What would be the appropriate speed?

Get out of car and manual push across?
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Hi Seniors..

 

Need your advise on the below:

I was involved in a cross junction traffic accident whereby I was driving straight towards a junction when the greenlight is in my favour. I hit a right turn car. My front bumper is badly damaged with engine and passenger air bags activated.

The car is quoted 65k to repair at authorised dealer. As my car has a high parf of 80k and a resale same car is going at ard 100k. The opp insurance company treat this case as a total loss.

As much as i will prefer to repair the car..thereis now no other offer from other workshop to take up this job.

What other alternatives are available to me? As a total loss write off will be at my disadvantage?

Appreciate your constructive comments please.

Thanks

 

Nego and get the SGD 96k or more. Get a new car (maybe with some top up).  The key is you will get you fresh 10 years.

 

With current low COE, I believe you pay for lower depreciation next 10 years; vs you continue old car (assuming no accident happened).

 

Again, you get fresh 10 years is the key.

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Nego and get the SGD 96k or more. Get a new car (maybe with some top up). The key is you will get you fresh 10 years.

 

With current low COE, I believe you pay for lower depreciation next 10 years; vs you continue old car (assuming no accident happened).

 

Again, you get fresh 10 years is the key.

TS has to check if he still have any outstanding loan too.

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Quote

 

If a typical road is 60km/h, crossing at 40km/h is also too fast.

 

Unquote

 

Could you elaborate on the above? What would be the appropriate speed?

I will turn left, then U turn and turn right back into the same road.
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Not recommmended to repair the car since you have mentioned its a 65k repair bill. Just the amount already tells you how extensive the repair will be. Is the car going to be as strong and safe as before?

 

You should try to nego for a higher payout so you can buy the same model in the resale market or it is actually a good chance for you to buy a new car. If your parf now is 80k, if u wan to change your car, the tradein might be only 90k or even lesser.

 

In my opinion, in this soft market for trade-in cars, you actually gain a chance to buy new with a fairly good "trade-in" price.

 

Insurance payout for total loss cars have been quite good.

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