wangxiaodi 1st Gear September 3, 2019 Author Share September 3, 2019 1 hour ago, Heartlander said: Let me share more on my thoughts. As a newbie, I used to be very diligent in calculating my FC manually every time I pump petrol, and keeping a spreadsheet to track., feeling heart pain when FC creep lower and happy when it got better. I managed to keep this insane practice for a total of about 6 years, keeping all the receipts also. Then over the years I realised that FC is really dependent on individual as everyone drives differently with different usage pattern. Someone with light foot could actually achieve better FC with a thirsty car than another person with a frugal car but having a HRF, if he always drive at night with light traffic and turn off aircon. And then I also realised that every time I pump petrol, the fuel could vary by a few litres depending on when the pump attendant release the pump, so effectively rendering this FC calculation exercise abit meaningless. So do not take every FC posted here seriously thinking that would be what you will get, as everyone drives differently with regard to route and time and right foot and fuel pumping. Too many variables at play really. It is meaningful only when comparing different rides driven by same person, that is why I bothered to share the figures for my past rides for reference. If someone posted very good FCs, it only showed him to have a LRF and a careful driver. Actually maybe you might have bought the issue of FC to a new level bah? You must know why you are so meticulous about keeping track of all these FC figures and money u spent and receipt etc. The issue with FC for any cars is that, once u bought this car, whatever the FC is, good or bad, u have to accept it. The only things that can change is, what measures are we taking to improve or changing or identifying why it is such? Maybe are we taking too many short trip drives, to many short distance locations unnecessarily? For myself, I only reset the speedometer to zero everytime I pump a new full tank. And more or less that is the average mileage the car can cover. Plus minus maybe 10 to 30km.. If I know more or less another model have a better FC. Or another brand has a better FC. That would be one of the deciding factor to consider when getting new cars. There will be many factors to consider when getting a new car. Price and budgets. Overall appearance of the car, Interior and exterior. Handling and driving comfort when test driving. Brand and reliability. And also age and FC. Does not mean that I will consider a car just because of the good FC. If out of 5 to 6 factors, 3 is met or Implaced, then it would prompt someone to go ahead and get that particular car. ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heartlander Turbocharged September 3, 2019 Share September 3, 2019 Frankly I hope no one is naïve enough to be influenced to buy a particular car because of some FC figures posted here by random people. With current technology, a typical modern car with reasonable power can easily returns 10 to 13km/L regardless of jap/kor/conti/etc. Do not be too fixated on FC or trying very hard to justify your car choice that you have to prove that it is frugal. Choose a car because you like it, or at least because it can serve your needs. All these FC talk is getting more and more light weight with the improvement in car technology as a whole nowadays. The decision should be more of what type of car to buy first, after knowing all the hidden costs in each technology. If you are not really ready financially, then do not buy it now and let this car ownership thingy becoming a burden that you have to bear instead of enjoy. I am not saying this FC talk is not relevant, but just that we should not put too much meaning into it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocus Turbocharged September 3, 2019 Share September 3, 2019 (edited) My experience on cars with real world FCs based on SG roads. I add horsepower figure to see the effect of power and FC. You all see the lower BP doesn't mean the most efficient. 2003 Toyota Vios (1st gen) - 12.5 to 14km/l, 109bhp 2005 Suzuki Swift - 11 to 12.5km/l, 101bhp 2008 Mitsubishi Colt Version R - 10 to 12km/l, 154bhp 2015 SJG Subaru Forester XT - 7.4 to 9.8km/l, 239bhp 2017 Hyundai Elantra - 11.2 o 12.6km/l, 126bhp 2019 Skoda RS245 - 7.2 to 10km/l, 241bhp Edited September 3, 2019 by Pocus 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oaksky Neutral Newbie September 3, 2019 Share September 3, 2019 (edited) What’s the ideal type of petrol for Qash Qai? SPC or Caltex? One of my friend pump in SPC 98 and his engine light was on. Sent to workshop and the Mechanic told him not to use SPC petrol. Is this true? Edited September 3, 2019 by Oaksky Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocus Turbocharged September 3, 2019 Share September 3, 2019 6 minutes ago, Oaksky said: What’s the ideal type of petrol for Qash Qai? SPC or Caltex? One of my friend pump in SPC 98 and his engine light was on. Sent to workshop and the Mechanic told him not to use SPC petrol. Is this true? If my previous few cars with sensitive turbo engines can take SPC, any car can. If the Qashqai really cannot take it, Nissan can close shop. My bet is poor maintenance from your fren. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyox 2nd Gear September 3, 2019 Share September 3, 2019 1 hour ago, Pocus said: My experience on cars with real world FCs based on SG roads. I add horsepower figure to see the effect of power and FC. You all see the lower BP doesn't mean the most efficient. 2003 Toyota Vios (1st gen) - 12.5 to 14km/l, 109bhp 2005 Suzuki Swift - 11 to 12.5km/l, 101bhp 2008 Mitsubishi Colt Version R - 10 to 12km/l, 154bhp 2015 SJG Subaru Forester XT - 7.4 to 9.8km/l, 239bhp 2017 Hyundai Elantra - 11.2 o 12.6km/l, 126bhp 2019 Skoda RS245 - 7.2 to 10km/l, 241bhp I'm more surprised u were actually willing to move to a Hyundai Elantra having driven the XT. 🤣 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wangxiaodi 1st Gear September 3, 2019 Author Share September 3, 2019 (edited) 2 hours ago, Oaksky said: What’s the ideal type of petrol for Qash Qai? SPC or Caltex? One of my friend pump in SPC 98 and his engine light was on. Sent to workshop and the Mechanic told him not to use SPC petrol. Is this true? Does pumping any particular grades of petrol at any particular station makes any difference to your FC? She'll had better grade petrol then the rest? Or just another myth? 9 hours ago, Heartlander said: . Edited September 3, 2019 by wangxiaodi Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BanCoe Hypersonic September 3, 2019 Share September 3, 2019 (edited) 12 hours ago, Carbon82 said: You can see the trend, I am starting to get naughty...(the hazard of getting powerful TC car) For me, I track FC of my rides using an Excel spreadsheet (I'm a numberman, everything is about numbers). But to be able to recall figure off hand, there are reasons to it (not just for coffee shop talk). Vivio - In the days when petrol is <$1.3/L, I have to crack my head how to enjoy discount by petrol company for pumping say $30 of fuel and such (OK, I admit I'm cheapo) so the figure sort of etched into my mind after prolong monitoring and constant calculation Civic & Crossroad - Someone challenge me online (in the now defunct AsiaOne motoring and non-active SHC) to prove my claim on my FC, so I actually took photos and post online of my consumption figures, and the rest are history Stream - This one was very interesting. I once participated in Shell fuel challenge, and with super-extra-feather-light right foot (and no aircon), I managed to get ~27Km/L (exactly double of my normal FC) for a 4 days drive, under mixed driving conditions, only to be beaten by a Hyundai Sonata (@33Km/L)... Superb and Sharan - Too recent to forget Give this Man a Beer 🍺......but don’t drink n drive 😆 I only check fuel consumption when car is new maybe 3-4 times initially when pumping ..... after that I become lazy and don’t bother Edited September 3, 2019 by BanCoe 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocus Turbocharged September 4, 2019 Share September 4, 2019 8 hours ago, Nyox said: I'm more surprised u were actually willing to move to a Hyundai Elantra having driven the XT. 🤣 Still driving the Elantra. The Skoda replaces the XT. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SZ_ford 5th Gear September 4, 2019 Share September 4, 2019 audi a5, averaging 7.2l/100km 60% highway/40% city, i think 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
STiYaKuzA 3rd Gear September 4, 2019 Share September 4, 2019 2009 Azera 3.3 - 13-14L/100km 2009 Impreza 2.0 MT (N/A) - 11-12L/100km 2018 G80 3.8 - 12-13L/100km Heavy footed, and mostly highway routes. Am pretty impressed that the G80 has better FC than the Azera despite the larger capacity, maybe due to GDI and other tech improvements. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oaksky Neutral Newbie September 4, 2019 Share September 4, 2019 21 hours ago, Pocus said: If my previous few cars with sensitive turbo engines can take SPC, any car can. If the Qashqai really cannot take it, Nissan can close shop. My bet is poor maintenance from your fren. 21 hours ago, Pocus said: If my previous few cars with sensitive turbo engines can take SPC, any car can. If the Qashqai really cannot take it, Nissan can close shop. My bet is poor maintenance from your fren. But it’s a new car driven less than 2 weeks 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ctdpong Clutched September 4, 2019 Share September 4, 2019 22 hours ago, Oaksky said: What’s the ideal type of petrol for Qash Qai? SPC or Caltex? One of my friend pump in SPC 98 and his engine light was on. Sent to workshop and the Mechanic told him not to use SPC petrol. Is this true? Last time I drove Nissan Elgrand, less than 1 year, engine light also on. Nissan started to give all kind of reasons, and blame me for fixing additional LED lights. They reset at least 4 times and finally took almost 8 months to detect transmission issue. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oaksky Neutral Newbie September 4, 2019 Share September 4, 2019 Ic. Now I’m also having issue whereby I start my engine and turn on the aircon in the morning, it have a hissing sound ard 2-3 secs. Under hot weather, although aircon is set to 21 deg, basically the air is warm. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocus Turbocharged September 4, 2019 Share September 4, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, Oaksky said: Ic. Now I’m also having issue whereby I start my engine and turn on the aircon in the morning, it have a hissing sound ard 2-3 secs. Under hot weather, although aircon is set to 21 deg, basically the air is warm. I tot it's your fren car? Your cooling coil gone liao, leaking gas (hence the hissing sound) and need to be replaced. If it's out of warranty go fix. More Jap cars should cost around 400+... Edited September 4, 2019 by Pocus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocus Turbocharged September 4, 2019 Share September 4, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, Oaksky said: But it’s a new car driven less than 2 weeks 2nd hand issit? If not then it's a serious malfunction. Maybe airflow sensor. They better check properly before pointing fingers. Else SPC can sue them for spreading fake news... Anyway I checked the Qashqai thread, many mentioned pumping SPC 95 and 98 without highlighting issues. Edited September 4, 2019 by Pocus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atrecord Supersonic September 5, 2019 Share September 5, 2019 Knowing the real (not manufacturer's declared) FC of a car is very useful. But over the years, i get the feeling that this is not easy. First, different driver/owner of the same car can - and will likely - have vastly different figures. Apart from being heavy- or light-footed, the more important factor that beats everything, is the normal route used. Someone who stays in landed property just off a main road near to expressway (let's say near Woodlands), and working in airport, for example, will guarantee have fantastic FC, as compared to someone who parks in a MSCP (top floor somemore) in the middle of, let's say Bishan, and working in Orchard Rd. So even for myself, when i was working in Jurong (stayed Serangoon) about 20 yr ago, FC was average 13-15 km/L, even with morning jams around Macritchie. Now that my office is only 4 km away from home, with 6 traffic lights in between, a more modern/technologically advanced car (have to be, 20 yr on), can get maybe 6 km/L on a bad day, if most of the lights are red... And that's during school holidays when there's no school runs. During term time, on good days, i can average maybe 11-12 km/L cos I'll travel much further, and also use the expressways a fair bit. We can say that the differences will even out over time, so the figures shown can still be used. I'm not completely convinced, but in the absence of better methodology, have to use them lor... For me: 2001-3 Nissan Sunny 1.5 EX (A) ~11 km/L 2001-5 Toyota Corolla 1.6 GLi (A) ~11-14 km/L (14 km/L was when working in Jurong) 2005-18 Toyota Wish 1.8 ~9.9-11 km/L 2007-8 Daewoo Lanos 1.6M ~7-8.5 km/L 2008-2011 Hyundai Atos 1.0M ~10 km/L 2011-2016 Hyundai Verna 1.6A ~8-9.5 km/L 2016-7 Ford Focus 1.6A ~7.5-8.5 Km/L 2017- Hyundai Tucson 2.0 ~9.9 km/L 2018- Nissan X-Trail ~9.6 km/L I should add that for quite a few of the cars, my wife and my father also got drive, so it's really difficult to compare apple to apple 😅 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mkl22 Twincharged September 5, 2019 Share September 5, 2019 30 minutes ago, Atrecord said: Knowing the real (not manufacturer's declared) FC of a car is very useful. But over the years, i get the feeling that this is not easy. First, different driver/owner of the same car can - and will likely - have vastly different figures. Apart from being heavy- or light-footed, the more important factor that beats everything, is the normal route used. Someone who stays in landed property just off a main road near to expressway (let's say near Woodlands), and working in airport, for example, will guarantee have fantastic FC, as compared to someone who parks in a MSCP (top floor somemore) in the middle of, let's say Bishan, and working in Orchard Rd. So even for myself, when i was working in Jurong (stayed Serangoon) about 20 yr ago, FC was average 13-15 km/L, even with morning jams around Macritchie. Now that my office is only 4 km away from home, with 6 traffic lights in between, a more modern/technologically advanced car (have to be, 20 yr on), can get maybe 6 km/L on a bad day, if most of the lights are red... And that's during school holidays when there's no school runs. During term time, on good days, i can average maybe 11-12 km/L cos I'll travel much further, and also use the expressways a fair bit. We can say that the differences will even out over time, so the figures shown can still be used. I'm not completely convinced, but in the absence of better methodology, have to use them lor... For me: 2001-3 Nissan Sunny 1.5 EX (A) ~11 km/L 2001-5 Toyota Corolla 1.6 GLi (A) ~11-14 km/L (14 km/L was when working in Jurong) 2005-18 Toyota Wish 1.8 ~9.9-11 km/L 2007-8 Daewoo Lanos 1.6M ~7-8.5 km/L 2008-2011 Hyundai Atos 1.0M ~10 km/L 2011-2016 Hyundai Verna 1.6A ~8-9.5 km/L 2016-7 Ford Focus 1.6A ~7.5-8.5 Km/L 2017- Hyundai Tucson 2.0 ~9.9 km/L 2018- Nissan X-Trail ~9.6 km/L I should add that for quite a few of the cars, my wife and my father also got drive, so it's really difficult to compare apple to apple 😅 surprised the Atos FC is so sucky. the ford and daewoo is bad too. ↡ Advertisement 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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