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Fuel Grade for Lexus IS250(XE20)


latisern2
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I just recenlty got a COE lexus IS250. a, mot sure what fuel grade to pump so i just pump 98 to be safe, as i read on some manual that the min RON is 96. am i wasting money by pumping 98 ?

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3 minutes ago, latisern2 said:

I just recenlty got a COE lexus IS250. a, mot sure what fuel grade to pump so i just pump 98 to be safe, as i read on some manual that the min RON is 96. am i wasting money by pumping 98 ?

We got no RON 96 so pump RON 98 is correct. U cant pump RON 95 since the manual says min RON 96.

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1 hour ago, Spring said:

We got no RON 96 so pump RON 98 is correct. U cant pump RON 95 since the manual says min RON 96.

 

waaa Lexus so atas on petrol requirement ................. 

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No knocking sound. Most lexus cars in US use Ron 92 only. Most important is using fully synthetic engine oil preferably 5W-30 for a bit more power and smoothness. 

Just once in a while pump V Power to clean the engine required 

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On 11/15/2020 at 2:00 AM, ismailmiller said:

I pumped 95 to my COE Lexus IS250. No issues leh. Power still okay. 

 

Getting around 11-11.4KM/L and full tank average between 650-700KM.

waa.. yr fc is good sia!

am on 95 also. but getting 550 - 600 max. 9 - 10km/l usually

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59 minutes ago, q1n3fer said:

waa.. yr fc is good sia!

am on 95 also. but getting 550 - 600 max. 9 - 10km/l usually

9 to 10km/l sounds about right.

11km/l is amazing.

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The trick is I removed the spare tires plus rims to lighten the boot load. A bit of light footing when I just got the car cos still new. After a while I usually whack the accelerator after light turns green. 

Also I usually slow down early before reaching the red traffic light. 

Usually expressway I do 90-100 or more depending on the traffic. 

Plus my car is still mostly stock.. Still using 17 inch. Maybe that's why still good FC. now using 5W-40 oil because I got gasket leak earlier which I only fixed recently. Next servicing will try 5W-30 oil to have better mileage.

Try to also ensure tire pressure is based on the recommended pressure during cold weather. 

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6 hours ago, ismailmiller said:

The trick is I removed the spare tires plus rims to lighten the boot load. A bit of light footing when I just got the car cos still new. After a while I usually whack the accelerator after light turns green. 

Also I usually slow down early before reaching the red traffic light. 

Usually expressway I do 90-100 or more depending on the traffic. 

Plus my car is still mostly stock.. Still using 17 inch. Maybe that's why still good FC. now using 5W-40 oil because I got gasket leak earlier which I only fixed recently. Next servicing will try 5W-30 oil to have better mileage.

Try to also ensure tire pressure is based on the recommended pressure during cold weather. 

Yours is COE car?

Any other major issues encountered?

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16 hours ago, ismailmiller said:

The trick is I removed the spare tires plus rims to lighten the boot load. A bit of light footing when I just got the car cos still new. After a while I usually whack the accelerator after light turns green. 

Also I usually slow down early before reaching the red traffic light. 

Usually expressway I do 90-100 or more depending on the traffic. 

Plus my car is still mostly stock.. Still using 17 inch. Maybe that's why still good FC. now using 5W-40 oil because I got gasket leak earlier which I only fixed recently. Next servicing will try 5W-30 oil to have better mileage.

Try to also ensure tire pressure is based on the recommended pressure during cold weather. 

Removing spare tyre is quite an immoderate move to save fuel. And tyre pressures are to be checked when they are cold, nothing to do with the weather. I am no guru when it comes to engine oil, but I was told that for an older well run-in engine, best to use thicker oil for better protection.

Do you measure your FC physically (ie full tank to empty tank vs mileage)? Or rely on onboard FC meter? Toyota FC meters are optimistic by about 5%. 

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I have done it in my previous altis which I scrap / sold off, it works because you reduce the weight of the car. 

5W40 is thicker and is asked by workshops to use because it is more cheaper. Best to use the recommended original manufacturer EO. 

I measure physically. Calculation is done as follows; total distance traveled on meter divided by the amount of fuel pumped. I always made sure that the pump attendant fills the petrol fuel to the brim to ensure consistency in calculations. 

The car meter not that accurate. 

And yes this is a COE car, only 1 owner previously with 120K KM. 

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