If you buy a COE Car and have $3K to spare. . .

[Mkl22]

51 minutes ago, Hamburger said:

Car makers don't made parts. They assemble. 

 

Parts are supplied oy OEM. So if you wish to pay more with makers badge endorsed, it's your call, your pocket. 

some parts no choice but to buy originals. some "OEM parts" have too many fakes out there.  also no necessarily true that originals will always be more expensive than OEM parts.

[Roh96]

I see many hero here..haha. I personally won't touch a used car that is beyond 5 yr old or more than 2 owners. Moreover, the mileage on the ODO can't be trusted, so let alone a COE car. Plus $3K wont be enough to see doctors. Having said that, I am driving a COE renewed Honda now. The reason I keep the car is bcos it has been with me since day 1 so I know how the car has been driven.

Edited May 20, 2020 by Roh96

[kobayashiGT]

22 hours ago, Mockngbrd said:

U buy old w124 your 3k will go to replacing all the undercarriage bushings, rubbers, engine mounts, wheel bearings, shocks, suspension mounts, window seals, steering linkages, replace leaking seals. Mayb 3 k no enough. 

I only illustrate hypothetically if I were own a W124, these are the mods I will spend on. Of cuz you are absolutely right! 🙂 Old car have to fix all the wear and tear first. 🙂 👍

[EddieTan_144369]

46 minutes ago, Roh96 said:

I see many hero here..haha. I personally won't touch a used car that is beyond 5 yr old or more than 2 owners. Moreover, the mileage on the ODO can't be trusted, so let alone a COE car. Plus $3K wont be enough to see doctors. Having said that, I am driving a COE renewed Honda now. The reason I keep the car is bcos it has been with me since day 1 so I know how the car has been driven.

Do you plan to drive all until renewed COE expire or scrap if decided to change car? Since you say you won't touch COE car because of all the problems, means it's better not to buy your COE car because of all the problems. 

[Mockngbrd]

2 hours ago, Hamburger said:

Car makers don't made parts. They assemble. 

 

Parts are supplied oy OEM. So if you wish to pay more with makers badge endorsed, it's your call, your pocket. 

Coming from my own experience, some parts do have differences in quality between OEM / Manufacturer originals. Parts with manufacturer stamps could mean they are subject to the rigorous testing that manufacturers impose on them while the OEM counterparts are built to the same spec. Some parts are, of course, just stamped with a label. 

If $$$ no object, I'll, of course, go for all original parts, not just OEM. 

[Roh96]

41 minutes ago, EddieTan_144369 said:

Do you plan to drive all until renewed COE expire or scrap if decided to change car? Since you say you won't touch COE car because of all the problems, means it's better not to buy your COE car because of all the problems. 

I intend to change car if new car price is low enough. What I am saying here is that I wouldn't take the risk to buy a COE car from dealers. I had my lesson learnt from past experience of getting used cars with multiple ownership, spending time at workshops, downtime, initial budget of few Ks for repair became never ending thing. 

Edited May 20, 2020 by Roh96

[Hamburger]

39 minutes ago, Mockngbrd said:

Coming from my own experience, some parts do have differences in quality between OEM / Manufacturer originals. Parts with manufacturer stamps could mean they are subject to the rigorous testing that manufacturers impose on them while the OEM counterparts are built to the same spec. Some parts are, of course, just stamped with a label. 

If $$$ no object, I'll, of course, go for all original parts, not just OEM. 

Agreed. I have inquired some bmw parts that's oem and slightly cheaper than original, so no brainer there. 

[Adrianli]

59 minutes ago, Mockngbrd said:

Coming from my own experience, some parts do have differences in quality between OEM / Manufacturer originals. Parts with manufacturer stamps could mean they are subject to the rigorous testing that manufacturers impose on them while the OEM counterparts are built to the same spec. Some parts are, of course, just stamped with a label. 

If $$$ no object, I'll, of course, go for all original parts, not just OEM. 

The car remote battery of an Audi is CR2032 type of button battery. Brand new at PA will cost you $10. It comes in a VW ziplock bag and the battery is with a Made in China stamp on it.

Anywhere else, a CR2032 button battery cost few cents if bought in bulk to $1 to $2.

 

But there are still ppl who believe that the $10 battery from PA is far superior than the battery bought at a supermarket.

[Mockngbrd]

24 minutes ago, Hamburger said:

Agreed. I have inquired some bmw parts that's oem and slightly cheaper than original, so no brainer there. 

You should see the difference between OEM / Original Pork parts prices. kns

[Yeobt]

I owned numerous of COE renewed cars in my driving history since early 90s. It was not as easy to fix some of the car problem then. I remember spending alot of regretful time and money going round and round just to correct an overheating radiator issue for my '88 EG Civic. 真是怨枉!

Now, information is so conveniently available online. Have been reading up some valuable postings on BMW forum this few days, now I'm good to start planning which workshop i can go to, what are the things I going to fix and how much am i going to spend even before i get my car. 😁

Really save so much troubles.

[Mockngbrd]

Always factor in extra 5-10k buffer when buying used for repairs/refreshing worn bits. 

Edited May 20, 2020 by Mockngbrd

[Lala81]

18 hours ago, Stratovarius said:

How the h*ll did your suspension last for 12 years? My previous car 8 years went through 3 sets. My current ride 3 years already got sound for 1 year. Lol.

what's your mileage? Sounds a bit too high.

[Lala81]

1 hour ago, Adrianli said:

The car remote battery of an Audi is CR2032 type of button battery. Brand new at PA will cost you $10. It comes in a VW ziplock bag and the battery is with a Made in China stamp on it.

Anywhere else, a CR2032 button battery cost few cents if bought in bulk to $1 to $2.

 

But there are still ppl who believe that the $10 battery from PA is far superior than the battery bought at a supermarket.

There was one time, i changed my CR2032 battery for my honda remote 3 times within a few months. And i bought 3 different brands, 3 different sellers (online twice, and last one at my work hardware store). But all last at most 2 months then battery weak.

Then when i went for servicing at KM, i mentioned this to the guy. He was like ... I asked if i can change the remote. He later call me and say its battery problem, he changed for me. Later charged me for the battery. yes $10+ dollars.

BUT haha this battery actually lasted me 2 years already. And I'm still using it.

So my conclusion is that a lot of these batteries outside are crap. 
 

Edited May 20, 2020 by Lala81

[Yeobt]

When you buy a COE renewed car, you get saving from the lower car depreciation. But on the other hand, you have to factor some spare money and time to fix problems and for parts replacement. So, one must really do your homework well to maximize the saving.

I find the saving for driving COE renewed car is more rewarding for me.

[Incom]

No matter how well the car is being maintained. The moment it's being transferred to another owner, issues might start to occur.

I have owned 2 cars before (2003 Corolla and 2009 Swift). The moment one it's being transferred to the new owner, some leaks at the engine will happened. I have no problem with the cars during my ownership.

There can be a few scenarios when one will buy a COE car. Budget? A car model which one liked very much? Modding potential? etc ... One thing for sure is that wear and tear replacement is going to be high during the initial period of ownership.

Assume that the COE car has been checked that overall is ok.

The moment I took over the car, I will do the following:

1. Make sure the car is LTA compliant
2. Replace all fluids.
3. Flush aircon gas
4. Change all the tyres (if necessary)
5. Do wheel alignment
6. Wash and wax exterior (DIY)
7. Wash the interior (DIY)

Except for item 1 which can be quite costly process. The rest is quite straight forward and should not cost much.

The rest of the money will just save up for wear and tear replacement.

My current car (2007 Civic) bought in Jan 2018. The previous owner took a lot of effort to maintain the car. For 2 years, besides normal servicing, I have only changed power steering hose.

Cheers.

[Ody_2004]

41 minutes ago, Mockngbrd said:

Always factor in extra 5-10k buffer when buying used for repairs/refreshing worn bits. 

Not a small sum but realistic.. 

I think there's 2 group here.. one buy liao will repair/do preventive maintenance..

The other group is financially burden so they get COE car which so call cheaper/affordable.. this group will just drive till the car broke down.. then repair..

[kobayashiGT]

2 hours ago, Yeobt said:

I owned numerous of COE renewed cars in my driving history since early 90s. It was not as easy to fix some of the car problem then. I remember spending alot of regretful time and money going round and round just to correct an overheating radiator issue for my '88 EG Civic. 真是怨枉!

Now, information is so conveniently available online. Have been reading up some valuable postings on BMW forum this few days, now I'm good to start planning which workshop i can go to, what are the things I going to fix and how much am i going to spend even before i get my car. 😁

Really save so much troubles.

So the golden question is what car are you getting? hahahaha.

[Phluvcat]

1 hour ago, Ody_2004 said:

Not a small sum but realistic.. 

I think there's 2 group here.. one buy liao will repair/do preventive maintenance..

The other group is financially burden so they get COE car which so call cheaper/affordable.. this group will just drive till the car broke down.. then repair..

For me is manual cars hard to get nowadays. Brand new manual ones usually come at a premium.

Old school has old school flavour.

Next milestone is see ERP2 how is it, whether to carry on driving.