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BMW 523i F10 Highline 10 Years COE Renewal


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10 hours ago, TheCarDealer said:

Bro, don't mind PM which workshop you went to for the parts you've fixed? Hopefully with a receipt so i can compare it with my own workshop. Many thanks! I've short listed a couple of parts on taobao too. Waiting for the COE to be between 20 to 25k before i renew so that my depreciation will be about $4.9k Per Year

Hi Bro, what i did was before taking over the car i sent it to SW Werkz https://www.sgcarmart.com/directory/merchant.php?MID=16924 cos my frd's old 335i was serviced there, and had them to run a diagnostics & thorough physical check which cost me $120 after which with the list of mechanical items that needed to be fixed i nego with the dealer to get all those stuff fixed at his own workshop, after he got it fixed i took the car back SW Werkz to get it reviewed again then whatever stuff still not fixed i went back to the dealer to get it done on the spot before i paid up the rest of my deposit...

so ya for my mechanical parts replacement  i can't tell you how much i paid for it but you can roughly check it out based on past threads in the BMW SG forums.

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21 hours ago, TheCarDealer said:

As much as i want to buy a 535, there are a few factors that do not allow me to do so. 

1) My company does not have the 535i
2) I'm getting the 523i Highline at 5.5k Depre per year (Cost Price based on $33k PQP)
3) If i were to buy it from any other dealer, im looking at 7.7k Depre per year
4) Road Tax difference (2.5 vs 3.0) + 10 to 50%
5) Fuel Consumption
6) Wear and Tear parts as compared to 523i
7) I no money, thats why the 523i is what im looking at. If not i buy a brand new one already. 

Based on your 7). Think you better off getting a bread and butter car. Maintaining the BMW will probably cause you your both legs and arms

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On 7/20/2020 at 8:26 PM, Roadhogger said:

Based on your 7). Think you better off getting a bread and butter car. Maintaining the BMW will probably cause you your both legs and arms

Wah 7 Points you quote me on 1 nia Sibei selective leh.

If the depreciation for a Toyota mid size sedan is min $4.3k and i'm getting a luxury sedan at $5.5k depre per year or less, it makes no sense for me to get the toyota in my perspective. Granted that the maintenance on a Conti will be much more on a Jap make, but since its a used cars, alot of factors to consider like the mileage, ownership count, condition of the car and how often do you use the car.

A toyota is known for its reliability no doubt. I'd say as long as one does their homework on the car that he/she is buying, as long as one does not  lose that much on a car then end of the day its more like heng suay. You heng, you spend min on maintainance. You suay then like what you mention, donate 1 arm & 1 leg.

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On 7/20/2020 at 10:05 AM, Jujitsuka said:

Hi Bro, what i did was before taking over the car i sent it to SW Werkz https://www.sgcarmart.com/directory/merchant.php?MID=16924 cos my frd's old 335i was serviced there, and had them to run a diagnostics & thorough physical check which cost me $120 after which with the list of mechanical items that needed to be fixed i nego with the dealer to get all those stuff fixed at his own workshop, after he got it fixed i took the car back SW Werkz to get it reviewed again then whatever stuff still not fixed i went back to the dealer to get it done on the spot before i paid up the rest of my deposit...

so ya for my mechanical parts replacement  i can't tell you how much i paid for it but you can roughly check it out based on past threads in the BMW SG forums.

Thanks for the info bro. I'm planning to do my own servicing during my free time but i'll leave the rest to the mechanics. I'll be sending the car for Vicom or AA for evaluation first. Once again, thank you.

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On 7/19/2020 at 11:02 PM, TheCarDealer said:

Bro, im not looking to tune it to match the 535 in terms of power. Is there anyway to tune up its torque slightly for 0 to 100km as i've heard that the L6 is very slow off the blocks due to it being an NA.

You are looking at wrong car if you want a fast sprint off the line everytime. I think even the BlueSg vehicle can do better in this. The show from this N52 engine begins after 60km/h. Like some bro mentioned, the wear and tear of this car could be a killer passed its first coe cycle. Build up a good relationship with a workshop who has in-depth knowledge of working on the bmw car will definitely help also.

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This is an odd thread. TS came asking for advices but he is not listening to any. He just want validation on his choice only.

Ok, good luck TS. IL6 NA for the big win. You have made the best choice. 👍👍

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1 hour ago, Soundphile said:

You are looking at wrong car if you want a fast sprint off the line everytime. I think even the BlueSg vehicle can do better in this. The show from this N52 engine begins after 60km/h. Like some bro mentioned, the wear and tear of this car could be a killer passed its first coe cycle. Build up a good relationship with a workshop who has in-depth knowledge of working on the bmw car will definitely help also.

To be fast sprint off the line for an NA, the driver need to drive it for a day like mad man.  ECU will adapt to the new driving style.

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12 minutes ago, inlinesix said:

To be fast sprint off the line for an NA, the driver need to drive it for a day like mad man.  ECU will adapt to the new driving style.

No wonder the 7-er I had was like a cruise ship

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F10 523 is a reliable and would be my choice for a run about car for daily use.

May not be the fastest but put it in sport mode, its good enough for many. 

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5 minutes ago, Hamburger said:

F10 523 is a reliable and would be my choice for a run about car for daily use.

May not be the fastest but put it in sport mode, its good enough for many. 

haha i dunno how the many people living with normal NA engines are surviving. Me being one of them.

As long as the gearbox/ECU is fairly reponsive, should be more than enough lah. It's not a 1.6L NA which can feel bit sluggish at times.
At most just rev and get lousier FC but just less low end torque lor. Just need to match your driving habits.

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7 hours ago, Hamburger said:

F10 523 is a reliable and would be my choice for a run about car for daily use.

May not be the fastest but put it in sport mode, its good enough for many. 

 thats the same as what he said in his review even though his car is problematic. not the fastest, but in the f10 lineup probably the most reliable

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On 7/16/2020 at 10:34 AM, Sopskysalat said:

spend more to get a near EOL 528 or 520. Refresh it and ready for COE in 1-2 years. Should be better than 523 especially the 528. You can tune it

Better avoid the turbo one

 

used to drive 520i alot prob, never end one until i sold the car away

 

to TS better save ur money for repair. Its a great car but not wallet friendly

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On 7/22/2020 at 8:25 PM, goldennugget said:

 thats the same as what he said in his review even though his car is problematic. not the fastest, but in the f10 lineup probably the most reliable

Yes f10 523i is best choice to renew than 520 or 528. Its one of the best car i ever owned and also most problematic one lol

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If you intend to buy one for COE extension, best is to get one with 1 year COE left first. Drive for a while and let the problems surface first before deciding to extend the COE. If there are too many issues, just scrap.

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On 7/14/2020 at 5:57 PM, Vinceng said:

In a nutshell, he spent over $7,000 on repairs in those few months of ownership and sold it back the car to the dealer at a further loss. 

Must have a deep pocket to swallow this.

In essence, he repaired the car for the dealer for free.

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Sorry for digging this thread but I am also considering a 2011 f10 523i with coe renewed cause got a decent lobang and mileage < 100k. But coe pqp went up so gotta pay abit more as compared to those in 2010. 

Any current or previous owners have insights? 

If I'm really keen, I will be sending the car for a pre inspection first with the reputable BMW workshops like R2D. 

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