Jump to content

Simple home DIY repairs


Lala81
 Share

Recommended Posts

On 11/23/2021 at 8:00 PM, Adrianli said:

How about installing the table top upside down? So you will be screwing down.

Thanks bro for the suggestion. Guess I just so frustrated that never think laterally. 

Managed to drive in the 2 rear screws with it upside down and the weight pressing down. 

Done! 

20211124_200511_compress71.jpg

Edited by Lala81
↡ Advertisement
  • Praise 6
  • Haha! 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 11/21/2021 at 5:46 PM, Lala81 said:

Lol I tried to install the base for my living room TV just now. And realised... I threw away the base plate required to attach to the stand. I thought it was the base stand for my old Samsung TV which I junked in 2019. 

Now as per @inlinesix, I need to get a vesa universal tv mount. 搞笑行动。

搞笑行动 finale. 

Vesa universal wall mount TV stand came. The thing is stable but the panel can wobble a bit due to its long length and narrow base. 

Install Liao... But TV remote still missing somewhere in the boxes or somewhere. Lol. 

20211124_185725_compress12.jpg

  • Haha! 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

My final DIY installation. Held by two screws.

I find it not easy to align screw holes together with the rotary hammer.

If u are drilling into concrete I feel its better to start mid speed rather than start with low speed cos the chance of the drill bit skipping, shifting just a small bit or enlarging the entry hole is higher. That happened to my first hole when I went too slow. 

Thought my drilled hole entry was straight. But the 2nd hole the screw is tilted. Maybe it's near a plastered area cos there was a hook rack here by the previous owner. Thankfully can still fit the rack. Almost thought it might not with the way the screw position was. 

My masking tape holding the plastic bag also took off some paint when I removed it. I am lucky this hook rack covers the bare paint area. 

Close shop Liao for my cheap corded rotary hammer. 

I have increased respect for those construction guys who can drill holes into concrete with good precision. Even with the right equipment it's not easy. 

20211125_170130_compress98.jpg

  • Praise 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 11/25/2021 at 8:48 PM, Lala81 said:

My final DIY installation. Held by two screws.

I find it not easy to align screw holes together with the rotary hammer.

If u are drilling into concrete I feel its better to start mid speed rather than start with low speed cos the chance of the drill bit skipping, shifting just a small bit or enlarging the entry hole is higher. That happened to my first hole when I went too slow. 

Thought my drilled hole entry was straight. But the 2nd hole the screw is tilted. Maybe it's near a plastered area cos there was a hook rack here by the previous owner. Thankfully can still fit the rack. Almost thought it might not with the way the screw position was. 

My masking tape holding the plastic bag also took off some paint when I removed it. I am lucky this hook rack covers the bare paint area. 

Close shop Liao for my cheap corded rotary hammer. 

I have increased respect for those construction guys who can drill holes into concrete with good precision. Even with the right equipment it's not easy. 

20211125_170130_compress98.jpg

Alignment is tricky. If I were to hang this nicely, I'd probably take a bit more time, more work.

  1. I'll start with drilling 2 holes in the wood. Not sure how yours is hung. Use marker to draw 2 hole positions on the walls. Use a leveller placed on top of the hanger. 
  2. After I removed the hanger, I'll draw a cross X over the 2 mark. This is bcuz when drilling the wall, the bit tends to wander a bit, with the big X, you can still see where the mark original is.
  3. Then I'll drill the 2 holes in the wall (with a dust collector). I'll start slow until the bit gets a little deep in the correct position, then go all the way in, depending on the plug length.
  4. If the hanger wood is too thick for the marker, I'll just roughly drill one hole in the wall first. Put in the plug and screw  on the hanger, with the leveller, then use a smaller diameter bit (like 4mm) to drill through the other hole, just to make a small pilot hole. Then remove the hanger, and finished up with correct 6mm bit. This way guarantees the 2nd screw hole position is correct.

More work, but will make the job looks nicer. Anyway this is just for fun, it's not that we are paid to do this kind of job by time.

  • Praise 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

You probably shouldn't do this DIY, if you're not qualified. [:p]

Install a 32A isolator for aircon, to replace an existing 15A socket/plug. If you're having a new aircon installed, go with an isolator, it's better.

The isolator is a switch inside a IP66 box with higher current rating (20A, 32A, 40A onwards), the protection is still coming from the MCB.

 

hgiso.jpg

  • Praise 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Kb27 said:

You probably shouldn't do this DIY, if you're not qualified. [:p]

Install a 32A isolator for aircon, to replace an existing 15A socket/plug. If you're having a new aircon installed, go with an isolator, it's better.

The isolator is a switch inside a IP66 box with higher current rating (20A, 32A, 40A onwards), the protection is still coming from the MCB.

 

hgiso.jpg

What's the advantage? 

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Lala81 said:

What's the advantage? 

First, you get higher rating current protection, say 20A against 15A socket. It means the parts can withstand higher heat before melting in case of any overloading.

For me, the box internally provides more space to run the wires. I can also add washing machine to the isolator.

The box is IP66 rated, provides protection against water splashes, rain splashes, if you're installing it at an open balcony.

  • Praise 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Supercharged
On 11/25/2021 at 8:48 PM, Lala81 said:

My final DIY installation. Held by two screws.

I find it not easy to align screw holes together with the rotary hammer.

If u are drilling into concrete I feel its better to start mid speed rather than start with low speed cos the chance of the drill bit skipping, shifting just a small bit or enlarging the entry hole is higher. That happened to my first hole when I went too slow. 

Thought my drilled hole entry was straight. But the 2nd hole the screw is tilted. Maybe it's near a plastered area cos there was a hook rack here by the previous owner. Thankfully can still fit the rack. Almost thought it might not with the way the screw position was. 

My masking tape holding the plastic bag also took off some paint when I removed it. I am lucky this hook rack covers the bare paint area. 

Close shop Liao for my cheap corded rotary hammer. 

I have increased respect for those construction guys who can drill holes into concrete with good precision. Even with the right equipment it's not easy. 

20211125_170130_compress98.jpg

Painter's tape (blue colour) is better than masking tape. Doesn't remove paint and can be reused 

  • Praise 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Kb27 said:

You probably shouldn't do this DIY, if you're not qualified. [:p]

Install a 32A isolator for aircon, to replace an existing 15A socket/plug. If you're having a new aircon installed, go with an isolator, it's better.

The isolator is a switch inside a IP66 box with higher current rating (20A, 32A, 40A onwards), the protection is still coming from the MCB.

 

Higher amperes need thicker gauge wires from the DB to the socket/isolator, cannot suka suka just change the end point and expect instant increase in the system current capacity (a bit like modding 3 inch exhaust tip in the car and expect double the power output).  Overloading can melt the wires and cause fire.  BUT the isolator will survive of course.

So proceed with plenty of caution.

Edited by Volvobrick
  • Praise 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Volvobrick said:

Higher amperes need thicker gauge wires from the DB to the socket/isolator, cannot suka suka just change the end point and expect instant increase in the system current capacity (a bit like modding 3 inch exhaust tip in the car and expect double the power output).  Overloading can melt the wires and cause fire.  BUT the isolator will survive of course.

So proceed with plenty of caution.

Yes, important to check wire size. Also can split the load by running extra set of wires.

  • Praise 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

This is my sons ikea bed. These two metal rods fell off 2 years ago cos the screw and bolt holding them came loose. Lost the screws and nuts over the years before I moved. 

Purchased m3 1" screws and the nuts from shopee. 

Needed the makita to tighten this. Have to hold the nut with a plier while using the makita. Almost thought I got the wrong nut until I used the power tool. Cos u can't hand tighten these nuts. 

20211213_200240_compress16.jpg

20211213_200227_compress49.jpg

  • Praise 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

On 11/23/2021 at 9:51 PM, Lala81 said:

My makita has the 10.8v impact driver and it can't drive the screw in to the table I showed earlier in the afternoon. Ah well just make do with what I have.

If I ever buy another power tool, surely will be 18v brushless haha. 

If cannot drive screw into wood is really cannot Liao 

p

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, Lala81 said:

This is my sons ikea bed. These two metal rods fell off 2 years ago cos the screw and bolt holding them came loose. Lost the screws and nuts over the years before I moved. 

Purchased m3 1" screws and the nuts from shopee. 

Needed the makita to tighten this. Have to hold the nut with a plier while using the makita. Almost thought I got the wrong nut until I used the power tool. Cos u can't hand tighten these nuts. 

20211213_200240_compress16.jpg

20211213_200227_compress49.jpg

My sons double deck bed also ikea one but 100% metal one. No wood. I ownself assemble and double check all bolts

ikea metal bed good because metal won’t corrode like wood and also their length is longer 

  • Praise 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

14 minutes ago, Mustank said:

My sons double deck bed also ikea one but 100% metal one. No wood. I ownself assemble and double check all bolts

ikea metal bed good because metal won’t corrode like wood and also their length is longer 

Sorry. I don't like all metal beds. Reminds me of saf. 

I like powder coated steel. But only for storage items. Lol. 

  • Haha! 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

15 minutes ago, Mustank said:

My sons double deck bed also ikea one but 100% metal one. No wood. I ownself assemble and double check all bolts

ikea metal bed good because metal won’t corrode like wood and also their length is longer 

I once dismantled that double decker...took me almost 1.5hr...😅

  • Shocked 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, Mustank said:

If cannot drive screw into wood is really cannot Liao 

p

 

Buy already then use lor. A small and light power tool is still good for putting normal screws into ikea stuff. 

  • Praise 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...