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BBKs - NASHIN vs RLOGIC vs FORCE vs RAGE


Kar_lover
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Hi All

 

Considering upgrading stock brakes to 4 pot BBK. Currently considering the above 4 brands. Price wise Nashin (N Line) & R.LOGIC is about the same at around $1500 while FORCE and RAGE is just under $2k. Anyone has any advise whether it is worth the extra for FORCE & RAGE? To what i know only Nashin is not local, the other 3 are local brands, am I right? Only thing about Nashin is i prefer a slotted/drilled rotor but it only has "grooves" in the rotor whereas the other 3 have slotted & drilled.

 

Appreciate any advice.

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Didn't forget, just kinda rule them out, otherwise too many options....part of my consideration is the appearance and some how i don't really like CJ DYNAMICS as a branding on the calipers. Likewise also not considering D1Spec.

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19 minutes ago, Macrosszero said:

Personally will not go with any of these brands, only established ones like Brembo, AP Racing, Wilwood, Endless, would be under my consideration.

 

Thanks but i have budget to work with (under $2k) otherwise i also got for these brands.

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I read up abit on these brands before, only Force is true local, probably also Nashin, but I am not too sure about Nashin.

The other 2 brands you indicated, are OEM from Taiwan. If Nashin is not local, they should also be OEM from Taiwan.

And big chances is that R.Logic and Rage are OEM from the same TW factory, as Rage and R.Logic are formerly partners, who splited about 5yrs ago.

If I were to make that decision, I will not spend that additional money, because I personally do not think its worth it. those extra holes may have a look good factor. But does your car needs that additional performance on a daily driving pattern, provided that those holes even works the way they claims.

Rotor needs to be of good quality, to prevent warping. personally experience is that TW rotors tends to warp easily. even for those without holes. With holes, the whole rotor just gets structurally weaker. Tends could be easier to get warp.

Those big brands why they are expensive, because their rotors are usually stronger and thicker. to prevent warp.

I am on AP, and I must say, so far, no warping experience. most friends on TW rotor telling me always warp. and its in one of the brand you indicated above.

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34 minutes ago, Kar_lover said:

Didn't forget, just kinda rule them out, otherwise too many options....part of my consideration is the appearance and some how i don't really like CJ DYNAMICS as a branding on the calipers. Likewise also not considering D1Spec.

CJ Dynamics is from Fong Kim. They can print any text you want on the callipers.

I agree with the earlier poster, personally will not change stock brake to anything other than reputable brand as mentioned. I also went through similar process like you, and went for apr entry level 4 pot kit for just front. It was around $3100ish. My car not very powerful less than 300hp so entry level is more than good enough. My consideration was reliable and good braking performance, in that order. I changed because stock brakes was really lousy. Looks not a consideration.

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58 minutes ago, Kar_lover said:

Thanks but i have budget to work with (under $2k) otherwise i also got for these brands.

I’d rather shop for used but genuine Brembos and spend a bit on a seal refresh kit, if $2k was my budget. There’s plenty that came off from Evos and WRXes.

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1 hour ago, Macrosszero said:

I’d rather shop for used but genuine Brembos and spend a bit on a seal refresh kit, if $2k was my budget. There’s plenty that came off from Evos and WRXes.

Actually i thought of that but the caliper and rotor must also be compatible right? Especially the rotor? Must follow my car PCD of 5x112? 

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2 hours ago, Columbian78 said:

CJ Dynamics is from Fong Kim. They can print any text you want on the callipers.

I agree with the earlier poster, personally will not change stock brake to anything other than reputable brand as mentioned. I also went through similar process like you, and went for apr entry level 4 pot kit for just front. It was around $3100ish. My car not very powerful less than 300hp so entry level is more than good enough. My consideration was reliable and good braking performance, in that order. I changed because stock brakes was really lousy. Looks not a consideration.

Thanks, I am not FK fan so even more don't want CJD now haha.... 

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2 hours ago, Macrosszero said:

BBK also cannot save this VW or this Civic

 

Blame the other 8 vehicles for not having BBK 😂 The VW and civic merely suay to be sandwiched

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Here's my take.

You must make sure the rotor is a common size. Mid-size car all choose 4 pot 330mm. if you are on a bigger ride, then 6pot 355mm.

There are brands out there come out with their own size like 320mm and all when you wanna change the rotor, you have no flexibility but to go back to the same brand.

Other than that, if you are not on the very harsh driving environment, like track use and all, daily usage, all the brands that you have mentioned are all okay one. They are all from Taiwan IIRC.

And the lao da in Taiwan for brakes is D1 Specs. They also white label their brakes to other small brands.

One key thing about D1 Specs is their S-RS series do have some resemblance of the brembo GT series. Which will cost you maybe a leg also. So for those who want to hiao, never really drive like a mad man and still looking out for good braking performance, then I will recommend D1Spec. They in the market damn long le. So is a

 

 

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I forgot to share an important factor when choosing aftermarket brake kit --> Availability of good brake pads options.

This is like buying rims and tyres. Some rim size/spec are odder and require odd size/profile tyres that are more expensive. And then might not even be available for popular good tyre models.

I have a friend with the same car as mine. I am using apr caliper while he is using d1 spec. Mine came with stock apr pads that were super dusty. I was willing to even downgrade some performance in exchange for cleaner pads, which I manage to find in Dixcel type M. Performance was even better than the stock apr pads and its much much more cleaner (win win). The point is, the apr calliper is more "global" and has more aftermarket pad manufacturer making pads for it, and listed in the website. You can easily find and confirm the applicability just searching on internet. Reputable bBrands like Dixcel, ebc, hawk, bendix, ferodo, etc. Usually these manufactirers will list the applicable callipers in their website for the more reputable brands like brembo, apr, and certain stock cars. AP racing website gives all the mechanical specs so you can double confirm specs.

For my friend on D1 spec, there is not much info on his calliper and pads and he is pretty much tied to the same thing when he need to change. If you ask the local distributor and the oem, they probably will not tell you which aftermarket pads is compatible, correct me if wrong. Maybe someone has tried and tested and found other compatible pads but this inherently carries alot of risks.

I think for rotor should be less issues than pads so not too problematic.

 

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I am using Nashin. Quite happy with the performance. Some BBK are noisy but no issue with Nashin. Was told Nashin really manufactures the BBK themselves while some other brands merely take other OEM manufactures and print their brands.

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On 12/18/2020 at 4:00 PM, Koster said:

I am using Nashin. Quite happy with the performance. Some BBK are noisy but no issue with Nashin. Was told Nashin really manufactures the BBK themselves while some other brands merely take other OEM manufactures and print their brands.

Yes i had previously used Nashin as well.

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On 12/18/2020 at 11:40 AM, Macrosszero said:

BBK also cannot save this VW or this Civic

image.thumb.png.686966ab1458ee37c7bfcd3d2a6cdcb6.png

 

image.thumb.png.652838c09ca60f0d4d190ed2b9b24e36.png

This is one of the reasons why BBKs are not suitable for street use. As the name suggest the bigger rotor disc adds unsprung weight. If you know moment of inertia your acceleration will be slowed, feels sluggish cos the rotor disc spin together with your wheel. You see in the pics. Most will realized the extra weight affected the performance and start looking for light weight rims to reduce the weight. The disc are cast iron and rims are Aluminium or Steel Alloy. How much weight can you save on the rims? So you want that BBK and have to install big rims, big rubber to fit your kit all of which will add much weight as compared to your stock factory wheel.

When ppl accelerate hard to overcome that sluggish feel in our kinda driving/traffic condition, want to brake cannot brake in time. See above pics. It's not that brakes are not good.

Improved braking performance is subjective cos tires play a big part on grip. So if you want good braking effect you will have to spend on tires that grip and grip. Your suspension also plays a part too . LoL...

So if you changed to BBK you car may behave quite differently. Braking like it or not doesnt rely solely on one part. Improving just one part might not change for the better.

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