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brake pad labour cost


Saggi
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2 minutes ago, mersaylee said:

And where is that vital facility? It's macam tiananmen Square at the rooftop under the hot sun 😅 

Next time I take a photo of the area. At level one along AML that stretch of main road, if you see an orange juice vending machine around the door, you go in is the passenger lift le.

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4 hours ago, Lala81 said:

Actually for the 1-2 years I've been hearing some minor squealing when i brake. But i feel braking performance is still ok. 
Lol i honestly didn't think anything about it cos i assumed the workshop would always want me to change brake pads at the sign of wear, but they never say anything.

 

Squealing must check. If it's the front brake, the pads may have worn out. Meaning, now every time you brake, it's metal against metal. Very soon the disk rotor will be damaged. The brake system is designed such that the pad material is softer and wears out first before the rotor. Some brake pads have a little metal thing sticking out, which intentionally caused the screeching to warn you of the pad's life is ending.

If the sound is coming from rear drum brakes, the pads inside just needs to be cleaned up.

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7 minutes ago, kobayashiGT said:

Next time I take a photo of the area. At level one along AML that stretch of main road, if you see an orange juice vending machine around the door, you go in is the passenger lift le.

Please take the lift to the roof top and take a picture there instead. I scared sekali someone changes the orling juice vending machine to one that sells condoms the next time I go there...chuay boh...😁

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I used to DIY brake pad change. it's quite a bit of work, so depending on the w/s labour charge and hourly rate.

You need to jack up the car, remove the wheel.

Then you can release the caliper bolts holding the pads. Then you need a clamp to push back the pads, so the new (thicker) one can fit.

While pushing back, the brake fluid in the container actually rises. If you had a ws topping up brake fluid previously (while servicing), this is a bad idea. The fluid will overflow out of the container.

So if you have not top up brake fluid, the level can also tell you the condition of the pad. As it wears, the fluid will drop. This is assuming that there's no other leakage.

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I'd highly recommend anyone changing out brake pads to also replace the brake fluid at the same time.

This is bcuz brake fluid is hygroscopic. It absorbs moisture in our humid environment, esp. DOT 4 type. The more moisture it absorbs, the lower the boiling temperature.

This is bad, bcuz when the brake fluid starts to boil under high stress condition, you have no effective brake.

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9 minutes ago, Kb27 said:

I'd highly recommend anyone changing out brake pads to also replace the brake fluid at the same time.

This is bcuz brake fluid is hygroscopic. It absorbs moisture in our humid environment, esp. DOT 4 type. The more moisture it absorbs, the lower the boiling temperature.

This is bad, bcuz when the brake fluid starts to boil under high stress condition, you have no effective brake.

Replacement of brake fluid dependant on how much moisture it had absorbed.

For DIY, get brake fluid tester.

I rem need to change when it hit 3%

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I used to go by 1 set of rotors to 2 sets of pads change then coincide brake fluid change together with the rotor...

Nowadays no need...all my cars under 1 year left to go kind...just need to find those with enough beef to last can liao...😁

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Twincharged
1 hour ago, Beregond said:

I give  u 1 example.

My lorry chassis is npr75xxxxxxxx.

The same lorry same chassis 

1 batch newer their clutch bearing is 5 cm higher.

Maybe the spare parts  supplier cannot  read thexxxx number behind. But  the general model is npr75.

U need physically take the parts to compare. 

 

thats why need to quote the whole chassis number. cause there are face lifted versions which share the front numbers but back numbers tell the full story.

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Twincharged
1 hour ago, inlinesix said:

Replacement of brake fluid dependant on how much moisture it had absorbed.

For DIY, get brake fluid tester.

I rem need to change when it hit 3%

tester cheap cheap. aliexpress taobao... $2 bucks

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Supercharged

I change brake pads at home

will pay $50~$80 if mechanic pay the same level of TLC and tighten with torque wrench 😁

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10 hours ago, kobayashiGT said:

We are looking at around $80 for the labour. I wouldn't recommend you to buy your own brake pads if you are not familiar with your car.

 

Last time, I bought my own brake pads and ask my mechanic to change, then, in the end, my brake pads cannot fit, I have to buy the brake pads from my mechanic.

Quite right, i ended up with mechanic telling me the brakes were meant for motorbike....

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On 1/8/2021 at 3:22 PM, Kb27 said:

Squealing must check. If it's the front brake, the pads may have worn out. Meaning, now every time you brake, it's metal against metal. Very soon the disk rotor will be damaged. The brake system is designed such that the pad material is softer and wears out first before the rotor. Some brake pads have a little metal thing sticking out, which intentionally caused the screeching to warn you of the pad's life is ending.

If the sound is coming from rear drum brakes, the pads inside just needs to be cleaned up.

I had a squealing at my front brake rotors once. Brought to the workshop and the guy said - skim the rotors. So I did. And replace the brake pads. So I did.

Afterwards, it worked perfectly fine. Then the squealing came back after 3 weeks. I brought it back to the workshop - guy said "Boss, this one you must change the rotors already!"

I didn't believe him - jacked up my car and inspected the brakes/calipers myself - the rubber boots were torn. So I went to the stockist and bought a brake restoration kit - it came with the boots and grease and rings and pins.

So I got to work and disassembled the brake calipers - realised that the brake caliper pins were also stuck REALLY bad - pulled it out, used brake cleaner to wash it, and then re-greased it with silicone grease. Re-assembled it into the brake, replaced the torn rubber boot...

Thereafter, the brakes went super silent and worked like a charm! Could even brake at traffic junction from the last arrow just before the stop line some more (not that I do that often, but tried it once and was very amazed at the results!)

Edited by Comage
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42 minutes ago, Comage said:

I had a squealing at my front brake rotors once. Brought to the workshop and the guy said - skim the rotors. So I did. And replace the brake pads. So I did.

Afterwards, it worked perfectly fine. Then the squealing came back after 3 weeks. I brought it back to the workshop - guy said "Boss, this one you must change the rotors already!"

I didn't believe him - jacked up my car and inspected the brakes/calipers myself - the rubber boots were torn. So I went to the stockist and bought a brake restoration kit - it came with the boots and grease and rings and pins.

So I got to work and disassembled the brake calipers - realised that the brake caliper pins were also stuck REALLY bad - pulled it out, used brake cleaner to wash it, and then re-greased it with silicone grease. Re-assembled it into the brake, replaced the torn rubber boot...

Thereafter, the brakes went super silent and worked like a charm! Could even brake at traffic junction from the last arrow just before the stop line some more (not that I do that often, but tried it once and was very amazed at the results!)

Haha. Many such useless workshops around who just want to make a quick buck. I chased brake rattling sounds before too. In the end it was the spring clips at the top and bottom end that needed to be bent and reseated. DIYed. 

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21 minutes ago, Mkl22 said:

Haha. Many such useless workshops around who just want to make a quick buck. I chased brake rattling sounds before too. In the end it was the spring clips at the top and bottom end that needed to be bent and reseated. DIYed. 

Can't say I blame them - the effort I took to dismantle and clean the brakes all the way down to the calipers, nuts and bolts could've easily be spent installing a new set of rotors and/or brake calipers.

I myself have also yet to witness any workshop that offers brake restoration services - it is after a very, very labor-intensive operation that provides nothing but risk for the workshop to bear, in case the restored brakes simply don't work well due to wear-and-tear and/or age...

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45 minutes ago, Comage said:

Can't say I blame them - the effort I took to dismantle and clean the brakes all the way down to the calipers, nuts and bolts could've easily be spent installing a new set of rotors and/or brake calipers.

I myself have also yet to witness any workshop that offers brake restoration services - it is after a very, very labor-intensive operation that provides nothing but risk for the workshop to bear, in case the restored brakes simply don't work well due to wear-and-tear and/or age...

A standard brake job for me would be to grease the caliper slide pins(if any). Reseat the spring clips. Dab grease on all pad and caliper contact points. Sand paper pad face. 
cannot claim to be an expert, but have dismantle and greased and shim enough slide pin type calipers to know that if all the above are done. Nothing else to create squeals. “Warped rotors” are but uneven pad deposits. As long as you don’t go track. I doubt you can see an actual warped rotor. 

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When you change pads, you also need to apply high temp grease/anti-seize on the back. that are specially made for this purpose.

Bcuz the pads are vibrating against the caliper backing during braking, it will create high frequency squeal.

Yeah, when you do a brake job, you need to dismantle, clean, and regrease. It all takes time, only if DIY, you will take the time.

Workshops don't normally want to spend these kind of time.

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My IS250 which I bought just 3 months ago had a squeaky sound when braking so decided during servicing to change brake pads and rotors. 

Bought at Stockist Front rotor (260 a pair), rear (240) + Front Brake pads (100) and Rear (55): Total 655 + labor charge at workshop 180 for replacement + throttle body cleaning total damage 835. Abit pain but no choice as wear and tear. From my experience, if you continue long enough with the squeaky sound, may damage your brake calipers which cost alot more to fix. 

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On 1/8/2021 at 9:04 AM, Saggi said:

anyone have idea of labour cost for brake pad..any recoomendation ?

It is around $30 to change a pair of front brake pads for my Vios as part of my car servicing.  You can PM for the workshop.

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