P0420 CEL on for RB3

[Apple-Tree]

11 hours ago, Brendon1980 said:

Hi Naimed,

With reference to 1st question - Nope, nothing done. Car stock totally, can't possibly be attributed to amp.

With reference to 2nd question - I suspect it could be the catalytic convertor issue, but darn got 2 cat so need to find out which one or possibly both got issue...

I have considered the options need to see which one viable -

(A) send to workshop, likely will be suggested to replace the O2 sensor which may or may not be the issue and problem will come back again when the O2 sensor detect abnormality in the exhaust fumes.

(B) send to KM to diagnose and resolve the issue totally (hopefully) by replacing/repairing the faulty parts since they have more diagnostic tools to find out what could be the problem, well at least a more accurate pinpoint of the fault. But will surely cost will not be cheap. Not sure if they will trial and error but end up charging only parts that warrant change/repair or also trial and error and lump the cost up...

(C) go to KM to identify the problem then pay some fees for that and go to outside WS to repair? But then again the diagnostic may not be pinpoint and may be other issues.

which is a better option?

I got a friend, drive his CITY TO KM to change O2,  $500-600 lor ...... For 1 SENSOR.

For me, Kia, I changed O2 sensor on the 150kkm regardless of condition lor, 40++ USD for stock sensor lor. Go JB.  Now JB closed..  Very hard to remove the sensor one ....

O2 problem

- Slightly higher FC

- Engine like very rough

- Acceleration Hesitation lor

Of course, CAT failure can also cause the above failure.  But it is still cheaper to start with O2 than CAT ma ....

 

Hope that helps ...

Ah yes, I whacked KM, my friend spent 500-600 KM did not even bother to wash and vacuum car wor. I said might well throw the money at dog lor.  I said C&C talk only, also wash and vacuum car ler .....

 

[Naimed]

9 hours ago, Brendon1980 said:

Currently only display that error code. Guess could be likely the sensor or wiring issue...(hopefully, keeping fingers crossed). Probably will have it replaced and see.

Yup, Namied.

yup, just renew the COE 4months back. 

Guess will probably try my luck at replacing the senor and wirings, hopefully that resolve the CEL code fault... thou I am not sure if the drop in mid to high range pickup is partially attributed to the clogged cat which triggered the fault code... 

I assume the ECU is stock also. During cold start, the ECU runs a pre-set parameters of AFR, usually running slightly richer to prevent knocks (in open loop) until the engine is warmed up (certain pre determined temperature that the manufacturer set) it will run in closed loop and where the 02 sensors readings are taken to adjust AFR, iirc in narrow band. 

O2 sensors 1 & 2 has their own pre-determined parameters and range (in voltage), so if they go beyond that range, it gives an error. Sensor 1 pre-Cat and Sensor 2 post-Cat to let the ECU know if the Cat is working and if the engine is running rich/lean and adjust the AFR towards 14.7:1. For naughty boys running test pipes, they get this code straight away after engine warmed up.

The drop in performance is probably due to the ECU not knowing the correct AFR to use because the O2 sensor/s is feeding it wrong/confusing data. You may experience hesitation during acceleration...etc but it is not a major issue, perhaps just wasting fuel. 

The K engines are also know for having faulty ignition coils. If you are hearing pops (misfiring), drive slow to the WS - or just keep a spare at home. This one easy to detect. Just unplug the coils one at a time, the engine runs properly (not shaking) after that particular coil is removed, you can swap in a new one in to test. Stock engine and ECU, the spark plugs are usually not a concern. Iridiums can change out at 40k kms. 

 

[Yeobh]

@ER-3682 

13 hours ago, Apple-Tree said:

I got a friend, drive his CITY TO KM to change O2,  $500-600 lor ...... For 1 SENSOR.

For me, Kia, I changed O2 sensor on the 150kkm regardless of condition lor, 40++ USD for stock sensor lor. Go JB.  Now JB closed..  Very hard to remove the sensor one ....

O2 problem

- Slightly higher FC

- Engine like very rough

- Acceleration Hesitation lor

Of course, CAT failure can also cause the above failure.  But it is still cheaper to start with O2 than CAT ma ....

 

Hope that helps ...

Ah yes, I whacked KM, my friend spent 500-600 KM did not even bother to wash and vacuum car wor. I said might well throw the money at dog lor.  I said C&C talk only, also wash and vacuum car ler .....

 

You need a special socket to remove the O2 sensor

[Apple-Tree]

8 hours ago, Yeobh said:

@ER-3682 

You need a special socket to remove the O2 sensor

I know, but it is so jammed, even cut the wiring to use normal socket and half a bottle of WD40 ...... to loosen it lor.

So, there is not need to buy this special socket IF you are replacing a new.  ......

I just replace the PRE and POST ........ after that, the 150kkm car drive like BRAND NEW lor ...

 

[Brendon1980]

On 4/30/2021 at 5:18 PM, Beregond said:

Yup i do this with  the liqui moly cleaner. Plus replacing my sensor also.

That was years ago.

(Replace both sensor together)

 

Hi, pray tell where can do this and how much is the cost for doing this? Probably might as well do flushing since likely to replace the sensor.

On 4/30/2021 at 9:38 PM, ER-3682 said:

If it is an Old Car,& the Car work Perfectly Fine,just drive,maybe go for a high Engine Speed Run,put 2-3 Gear,off the Aircon,try to cruise at 5,000rpm...

Tried but no luck as CEL still there, also i quite heavy footer usually... so I am thinking if it is really due to the carbon clogging up the cat or otherwise...😰

On 4/30/2021 at 10:31 PM, Apple-Tree said:

I got a friend, drive his CITY TO KM to change O2,  $500-600 lor ...... For 1 SENSOR.

For me, Kia, I changed O2 sensor on the 150kkm regardless of condition lor, 40++ USD for stock sensor lor. Go JB.  Now JB closed..  Very hard to remove the sensor one ....

O2 problem

- Slightly higher FC

- Engine like very rough

- Acceleration Hesitation lor

Of course, CAT failure can also cause the above failure.  But it is still cheaper to start with O2 than CAT ma ....

 

Hope that helps ...

Ah yes, I whacked KM, my friend spent 500-600 KM did not even bother to wash and vacuum car wor. I said might well throw the money at dog lor.  I said C&C talk only, also wash and vacuum car ler .....

 

 

On 5/1/2021 at 1:11 AM, Naimed said:

I assume the ECU is stock also. During cold start, the ECU runs a pre-set parameters of AFR, usually running slightly richer to prevent knocks (in open loop) until the engine is warmed up (certain pre determined temperature that the manufacturer set) it will run in closed loop and where the 02 sensors readings are taken to adjust AFR, iirc in narrow band. 

O2 sensors 1 & 2 has their own pre-determined parameters and range (in voltage), so if they go beyond that range, it gives an error. Sensor 1 pre-Cat and Sensor 2 post-Cat to let the ECU know if the Cat is working and if the engine is running rich/lean and adjust the AFR towards 14.7:1. For naughty boys running test pipes, they get this code straight away after engine warmed up.

The drop in performance is probably due to the ECU not knowing the correct AFR to use because the O2 sensor/s is feeding it wrong/confusing data. You may experience hesitation during acceleration...etc but it is not a major issue, perhaps just wasting fuel. 

The K engines are also know for having faulty ignition coils. If you are hearing pops (misfiring), drive slow to the WS - or just keep a spare at home. This one easy to detect. Just unplug the coils one at a time, the engine runs properly (not shaking) after that particular coil is removed, you can swap in a new one in to test. Stock engine and ECU, the spark plugs are usually not a concern. Iridiums can change out at 40k kms. 

 

Hi Apple-Tree and Naimed, the experience are pretty spot on, there were initially some pinging issues but after recent servicing and replacing the sparks, now dont really hear anything.

There is still the lag in response I feel on the throttle side especially when I floor the pedal. The pickup seems well heavier and lethargic in response, can hear the engine roaring but the pickup seems well lag or speed doesn't want to climb.  This happens usually in the mid range or maybe say 3rd or 4th gear range. Pickup at 1st gear to 2nd gear seems well ok, but pedal abit heavier than before. I dont know if that is the O2 fault that screw up the ECU AFR, hopefully so. Haiz...🤕

[ER-3682]

If Car run fine,just take out the Bulb for the Check Engine Light,case close.

[Fcw75]

1 minute ago, ER-3682 said:

If Car run fine,just take out the Bulb for the Check Engine Light,case close.

I sticked black tape over it. 🤣