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Found 224 results

  1. Hi, Just got my new Altis but got a little problem. The air-con is abit too cold for our liking, even at 27-28 degrees. Even when we push the vents away, still somehow can feel the "wind" blowing directly at us. During rain, the windows fog up easily even with the heater on. Any Altis owners out there, can advise? Thanks.
  2. ""This question is currently the subject of intense discussion. The fact is that, in principle, driving with lights on during the day offers a clear plus in terms of safety. Lights on during the day, is that really necessary? Among other aspects, this is shown by a study carried out by the Dutch "SWOV Institute for Road Safety Research" on behalf of the European Commission. The result of the study: in half of all accidents during the day, one contributing factor was that other vehicles were either not seen or were seen too late. Compulsory in many other countries already, in Germany the decision in relation to requiring daytime running light has yet to be made.""... More @ http://www.automotoportal.com/article/Ligh...eally_necessary Well, some of our "world class" drivers here don't even signal for lane change....
  3. Sofarsogood

    Any DIY plans during long weekends?

    Since we got 3 long weekends coming up (including this one), anyone has plans to do any DIY? I thought of removing swirl marks on my car (certain areas only). Will pop by Autobacs or DIYgurus to see what are the tools I need. Feel free to recommend me if you have any. BTW, it be purely handiwork (no machine involved).
  4. Hi, I will be quite free this week until 3rd Feb, not working mah.... CNY break. thinking of going to JB to see accessories shops, maybe can fix this or that in my ride.... like soundsproofing, or headlights or whatever add-ons...... any JB accessories shops that will be opened this week? maybe 1st feb onwards?
  5. Hi guys, wondering... for Chevy we have to go for serving at 1k & we have to change the engine oil.. but is it necessary to change so early? Eg, Japan cars only go for servicing at 5K during which they change to synthetic oil. Therefore can we also choose not to change until the 5K servicing? Also, can I go for the 1K servicing later like maybe when I hit 2K or so or will they forfit my servicing saying I passed the 1K mark ? Oh yah.. how many bottles do I need to buy if changing the engine oil? Ride is Optra (A) 1.6.. Tks!
  6. Got a problem here. Hope pple can help. Recently I feel my car have to drag longer before upshifting at 1st low speed. Once at cruising speed seems ok. Driving a G9 auto. FC also becomes higher nw. Used to get at least 12km/ltr easily. Nw only 11, something 10 + nia And I just completed my major servicing at 60,000km. Sparks and air filter changed. Using Mobil 1 0w-40. Drink Shell 95. Is it a transmission problem? Or could it be something else? What is happending here, huh? Is it a big rob? I worry chg trans oil also bai sai. Cld auto gearbox inside become kor yak liao? I hv been sending to Borneo for all my servicing so far. autoTrans oil was supposed to be changed at 40k. Cld it be that they cut corners and never change the oil for me ? What shld i do ? Anyone else got tis problem or heard of tis before? Pse advise. Thanks Many Many.
  7. hi guys... raining season is coming... wad do u guys do to protect ur car?? wash with water everyday after rain, wash with water or any other more ideas??
  8. I am currently driving a Protege and I close to my 40k servicing which requires ATF fluid change. The authorised workshop recommended me to do a flushing during the change to clean the gearbox and also prolong the lifespan. However, the flushing will cost much more due to the usage of more ATF Fluid. Is it required to flush ATF durin change esp when car is still new around 40k mileage?
  9. hi ppl, will be planning for a short trip soon.. but if i were to leave my car parked in MSCP just like that.. will the battery lose all its charge, say after a week? any diff if parked in open? pls share your exp or knowledge. thanks.
  10. going to hit 3000 soon anything need to maintain or look out for? radiator coolant, engine oil, brake oil etc felt the car moving smoothly and faster liao...:) achieved 12km/l for suzuki liana
  11. Hi all, Recently changed to a set of 15" Sports Rim with Falken ZE326 tyres to my Wira 1.3M. Currently, whenever I slow down the car, be it from 70kmph or 40 kmph, I notice that the Steering often give me a "swirling" feeling. Some times it turn a little bit. I did not have these experience before fixing the rims. Question: Is it due to the fact that I took out the Screw at the Back Brake Area where it contact with the Rims? The Tyre mechanic said those are redundant screws. Can kindly advice? Thanks. Loy
  12. As poll,What you spend most of the time on during CNY?
  13. Hi people, I had sent in my Optra to do body kit and the workshop had sent me some picts of my car during the installtion.
  14. Carlover76

    High rev during Idling

    Just to check, anyone can tell me when idling, it should maintain around 800rpm but now at times when car stop at traffic lights and it idles around 1000 or 1100rpm, what is the problem here?
  15. had this problem for a while... especially when you brake harder on high speed. the steering wheel will jutter and vibrate. things got worse when I changed my front brake pads yerterday, now even braking at slower speed also can feel the vibration. is it becoz of the workmanship of the mechanic or is it becoz of some brake disc warp that i'm seeing in this forum? please advise me on how i shld proceed to solve this problem. i'm driving a 2-yr old corolla... still under warranty. can i get it serviced at borneo motor? wat's the cost? thx
  16. Hi All, Need some advise to a problem that i am facing to the current car i am driving. The car will randomly shakes, and the rpm meter needle will jump when idle. The problem is more obvious when the aircon is on. The car i am driving is a Toyota Corolla 1.5L (A) FL, and just sent for oil change at 15K using RP 10W30 engine oil. Mods that been done on the car: - Grounding - DIY DPS - 2 pairs of magnet on the fuel line So far have tried looking for answers to this problem on net, but could not get a picture of what is wrong with the car. Or, any workshops to recommend, which can help to check what is the problem. Thanks Regards
  17. I've just installed a voltmeter and it shows 13.x to 14 during driving. However, I notice that when picking up from stop at traffic light, sometimes it'll drop to 12V holding consistently until I reach cruising speed... why is this so ?
  18. Hi, i own a G9 auto. recently i noticed that there is this sound that sounds a little like that of rotors blades of the helicopter spinning. It disappears when i move off and appears occasionally when i stop. It's not very loud but kinda irritating. Used to think it was the air filter box vibrations giving out those sound but now i know its not. Any ideas what it is?
  19. Hi All, As there are members here whose cars are still under warranty but do not wish to send their cars to the main distributors' workshops for servicing, they will appreciate it if the lau jiaos here can give them advice as to which authorised 'satellite' workshops (competent and reliable etc) to send their cars for servicing while keeping the warranty intact. Please feel free to put your names here if you do not mind giving advice thru private messages if the members approach you. Toyota: Nissan: Mitshubishi: Mazda: Honda: Ford: etc, etc.... Many thanks
  20. Hi all hope your weekend was vunderbar. After a week of intense posting and learning from this bb, I decided to be gungho and do some stuff on my own, not that this was the first time. With the 'ter-kah' away for the weekend, I was a man-on-a-mission to toy with my ride... So came sunny saturday and I assembled my tools to do the following: 1)Grounding 2)Clean the bloomin MAF sensor. First things first, I prepared the cables for the grounding. 10mm diameter braided copper wires and a whole chunk of crimp terminals and screws. And of course a crimping tool. Blessed with large hands, but not large biceps. So a tool was necessary. Measured the resistance of the grounding link (battery to engine to distributor to each side of the sidewalls. All of them had interestingly different resistance values. Ranged from 2 to 6 ohms. Had to locate the grounding point from the battery and worked my way up from there. Started to remove battery and electrical wires and cleaned up the contact between joints, metal and grounding points. While I was at it, I decided to remove the air-box and MAF sensor as well. Grounding was a breeze. Just measure the length required, cut and crimp; and connect. However as I read somewhere on the net, it's not just grounding, but the art of grounding that will give the desired effect. So I had to ensure that I don't create an accidental ground loop that'll induce interference and 'confuse' the ECU. Completed in 1.5 hrs under the sweltering heat and a throbbing headache. So I measure again and resistance at all points was a neat 0 !! Mission complete ? or so I thought. Cleaning the MAF sensor was easy, now that the air-box was removed. On inspecting, it looked quite clean. No soot or fiber stuff. But then again, it was a sensitive sensor, so it had better be very clean; not to the naked eye. So just spray till I think it's enough...emptied about 3/4 of the can. With the sensor wires still intact, I washed the air-box. Clean as a whistle. Can eat my nasi lemak from it. The sun was strong and with a throbbing headache and creaking back, I assembled everything back. Hopefully no spare screws or brackets or hoses remained behind. It was beginning to get dark and having shaky fingers didn't really help. with everything back in place, I measured the resistance... 1.4ohm max between all the gound points. How come ? Perhaps there was a leak from one of the components when the battery is installed. But I'm satisfied anyway. Could find another opportunity to bring it down to 0 ohm. So the ultimate test awaited me. As some of you might know, my car has a hard start problem coupled with a surge of RPM 2500 to 3000 when changing from gear 1 to 2. Cranked the engine and it didn't start 2nd cranked fired it up ok. So cleaning the MAF didn't cure the hard start. Back to the drawing board. But I noticed something interesting. Idle RPM was much lower at 750 and the car didn't sound like it was choking. Water temp appeared to be much lower. (Was close to middle, now looked much further than before) 20 mins of idling and the exhaust gas didn't feel hot at all. Could my engine be running efficiently ? I checked the exhaust and found small water droplets forming and dripping (As far as I remember, it was a sign that fuel was combusting efficiently) A good sign ? It never happened before. Turning up the aircon brought the RPM to 800. Used to be 1000. Wow. For the ultimate check...a test drive. waited til sunday to do it. N-S highway was out of the question as my car had a wanted dead or alive sticker in their books. So had to be local drive. Did the airport thingy. CTE, SLE, TPE. Noticed some things. 1) Car still surged, but at a lesser RPM. Now occurs at 2500 to 2750 and much less noticeable. Got to bring to mech for a tranny flush. 2) Acceleration feels good. RPM crossover is 70kmh at 2000rpm instead of 80kmh. 3) Speed is good. 105kmh at 2500rpm, instead of 100kmh. 4) Tailed a lexus SUV RX300 at abit more than 90 ( ) shhh...actually more than that 5) Road noise is rather noisy (bridgestone potenza G3) at certain parts of the road. The darker patches/ rougher are noisier. Suspect that my shock dampers are not so good quality Else the ride is relatively quiet and handling is good. So in conclusion, the grounding did some improvements. Not sure if it's alot, but I thought it was. If any others have some ideas, pls share. Apologise if it's an essay length story, but thought I'd put down in words so that we can learn from one another.
  21. whenever i start my car in the morning, there is a weeing sound coming out from the bonnet,what i suspect is the belts, but i just change the timing belt n the rest of the belts, b4 changing those belts also got this problem, pls help!! many thanks
  22. Upon closer inspection, found that the sound is there throughout but is more apparent between 2-3k RPMs. I also found out that this whirring goes away when I off the aircon. It comes from around the alternator area. Any ideas on whats causing this and is it covered under warranty?
  23. Hi people, Need some of your brain powers on this one. It seems that my car is experiencing a squeeky sound (sounds like braking) from the wheel(s) and it only happens occasionally. I'm not sure if it's from the front or the rear axle. Has anyone experience this b4? What do u think is the probabe cause for this? Thanks a million
  24. When I brake lightly at speeds over 80kph, I feel quite bad vibrations coming from the front wheel. If I release the brake pedal and tap on it again, then the vibrations sort of diminish and disappear when my car slows down to below 60kph. I was told by my service mechanic that my car's front rotors are "polarised" (not sure what that means...and changing the front pair would cost S$180. Is that the real cause of the vibrations? I was also told in another forum that I could just flip the rotors so I dun need to change them. True? I plan to have this fixed soon cos brakes cannot play play one... I also encounter squealing sounds when moving off in 1st gear and especially when reversing. I've sprayed belt dressing on all the rotating parts and the belts but the problem is still there. While moving, there's also some grinding noise coming from the drive shaft I think...somewhere from the bottom of the car or gearbox. Any idea what ARE wrong?? Any workshops to recommend to have these problems fixed cos it's the first time I own a car. I'm driving a Suzuki Swift. BTW, hope it's near Woodlands cos I stay there
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