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  1. Just gathering what I've learnt so far about the car... Front headlamps = H4 Foglamps = ? PCD = 5 x 100 Offset = 35 Tyre Profile = 195/65/15 Wiper Size = ? Hope to get some input from you guys here as well (car still new to me lar ) Pls add to the list if you know something not listed here...Thanks alot guys!
  2. just clickz N be enlighten ... http://www.toyojapan.com/tires/tire_talk.html
  3. Jerry here goes by the nick of Heyjay in BITOG forums. Much to learn. Actual discussion is here: http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultima...ic;f=1;t=005614 This is of particular interest to us as they are discussing "Summer Weight Oil".
  4. As a new comer , I notice that "Korean" would mean Hyundai or Kia . Nobody has anything to say about the other major group DAEWOO . Or nothing good to say ? Comments welcome . Incidentally I do have a Daewoo . Rgs
  5. Road hogging ?? What is road hogging ??? anyone care to give some definition ?? is it as long as you block someone..then you are consider road hogging? If yes, can i drive on the left lane and honk all the van and lorry because they are hogging me?? or if I travelling too slow say on the right of the expressway well below the legal limit of 90 then i'm consider road hogging ???
  6. hi guys.. long time no post liao.. cos my vehicle got nothing much to talk abt unlike cars.. ahahah but recently came got into one incident tat some one actually couldnt really hear my horn when i hold on to it.. im running a pair of hella horns.. so im wondering if i could put 2 pair of hella horns to make sure those vehicle with good soundproof and ice can hear my horn! will tat thing burn off my switch or original relay..? any one tried this.. i dun wan to resort to compresssor horn which will burn a hole in my pocket if caught
  7. Hello gurus Got Klasse and have some questions. I have searched through the entire Detailing folder but can't find answers to my questions. Hopefully some of you can shed some light. Klasse comes with AIO and the SG. The Klasse application tips (1st link below) mentioned only 1 coat of AIO and multiple coats of SG. Preferably 1 day between coats of SG. Questions: [ol] [*]Won't putting multiple coats of AIO create a better shine? [*]If it is okay/good/recommended to put multiple coats of AIO, what should the lead time be? [*]If I leave the SG to another day and just apply the AIO, the Klasse application tips recommends that I wash the car again before putting on the SG. (I do not have a garage). Won't the shampoo strips off the AIO coat? [*]Comparing Zaino's application tips (2nd link below), Zaino users can alternate between Z2 and Z5 depending on the type of shine they want and for weekly touch up, they have Z6 "Gloss Enhancer" spray. How can I maintain or have a quick touch up every week with Klasse after shampooing the car? [*]Turbobrick mentioned that good carnuaba waxes, (such as Zymol and Mother's) can be applied on top of the SG, (3rd link below). Does it mean that once I applied carnuaba waxes on top of the SG, I cannot apply any AIO and SG again until the carnuaba wax has been stripped off?[/ol] http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=62661;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unr ead#unread://http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/gfo...=unr ead#unread://http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/gfo...=unr ead#unread://http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/gfo...=unr ead#unread http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=287810;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=un read#unread://http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/gfo...=un read#unread://http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/gfo...=un read#unread://http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/gfo...=un read#unread http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=413;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unrea d#unread://http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/gfo...=unrea d#unread://http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/gfo...=unrea d#unread://http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/gfo...=unrea d#unread Thanks Cool_jazz
  8. More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil by Ed Hackett Choosing the best motor oil is a topic that comes up frequently in discussions between motorheads, whether they are talking about motorcycles or cars. The following article is intended to help you make a choice based on more than the advertising hype. Oil companies provide data on their oils most often referred to as "typical inspection data". This is an average of the actual physical and a few common chemical properties of their oils. This information is available to the public through their distributors or by writing or calling the company directly. I have compiled a list of the most popular, premium oils so that a ready comparison can be made. If your favorite oil is not on the list get the data from the distributor and use what I have as a data base. This article is going to look at six of the most important properties of a motor oil readily available to the public: viscosity, viscosity index (VI), flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash, and % zinc. Viscosity is a measure of the "flowability" of an oil. More specifically, it is the property of an oil to develop and maintain a certain amount of shearing stress dependent on flow, and then to offer continued resistance to flow. Thicker oils generally have a higher viscosity, and thinner oils a lower viscosity. This is the most important property for an engine. An oil with too low a viscosity can shear and loose film strength at high temperatures. An oil with too high a viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low temperatures and the film may tear at high rpm. The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real" viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques. These measurements are taken at specific temperatures. Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at 0 F and is therefore suitable for Winter use. Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot. Multi viscosity oils are one of the great improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely. Always use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter. In the winter base your decision on the lowest temperature you will encounter, in the summer, the highest temperature you expect. The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot of polymers (synthetics excluded) to achieve that range. This has caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better for all engines. The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high polymer content. It is the oil that lubricates, not the additives. Oils that can do their job with the fewest additives are the best. Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil. The lower the flash point the greater tendency for the oil to suffer vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot cylinder walls and pistons. The flash point can be an indicator of the quality of the base stock used. The higher the flash point the better. 400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. Flash point is in degrees F. Pour point is 5 degrees F above the point at which a chilled oil shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined. This measurement is especially important for oils used in the winter. A borderline pumping temperature is given by some manufacturers. This is the temperature at which the oil will pump and maintain adequate oil pressure. This was not given by a lot of the manufacturers, but seems to be about 20 degrees F above the pour point. The lower the pour point the better. Pour point is in degrees F. % sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil burns. A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and deposits in the engine. Low ash content also seems to promote long valve life. Look for oils with a low ash content. % zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti- wear additive. The zinc is only used when there is actual metal to metal contact in the engine. Hopefully the oil will do its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear. A level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the extended oil drain interval, under normal use. Those of you with high revving, air cooled motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look at the oils with the higher zinc content. More doesn't give you better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of metal to metal contact is abnormally high. High zinc content can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling. The synthetics offer the only truly significant differences, due to their superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film strength, very low tendency to form deposits, stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics. Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to traditional petroleum oils. You will have to decide if their high cost is justified in your application. The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle manufacturers (typically 7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies (up to 25,000 miles) are for what is called normal service. Normal service is defined as the engine at normal operating temperature, at highway speeds, and in a dust free environment. Stop and go, city driving, trips of less than 10 miles, or extreme heat or cold puts the oil change interval into the severe service category, which is 3000 miles for most vehicles. Synthetics can be run two to three times the mileage of petroleum oils with no problems. They do not react to combustion and combustion by-products to the extent that the dead dinosaur juice does. The longer drain intervals possible help take the bite out of the higher cost of the synthetics. If your car or bike is still under warranty you will have to stick to the recommended drain intervals. These are set for petroleum oils and the manufacturers make no official allowance for the use of synthetics. Oil additives should not be used. The oil companies have gone to great lengths to develop an additive package that meets the vehicle's requirements. Some of these additives are synergistic, that is the effect of two additives together is greater than the effect of each acting separately. If you add anything to the oil you may upset this balance and prevent the oil from performing to specification. The numbers above are not, by any means, all there is to determining what makes a top quality oil. The exact base stock used, the type, quality, and quantity of additives used are very important. The given data combined with the manufacturer's claims, your personal experience, and the reputation of the oil among others who use it should help you make an informed choice.
  9. Hi everyone, There's a very interesting Q&A thingy by this person Ken4Camry at STC in Delphi. For those who are patient to read through the many many postings, it can provide quite an insight to anyone interested. http://forums.delphiforums.com/SGToyota/messages?msg=14093.1 He might be in the chemical engineering related line. At least what he is interested in discussing is based on science and facts.
  10. About Suspension Shox absorbers The purpose of shock absorbers is to control the velocity of the suspension. If the shocks don't have enough resistance, the spring will move the suspension too fast and it will have an underdampened motion. If the shocks are too firm, the motion will be overdampened. It is important to ahve just he right amount of dampening to control the spring action of the suspension. Proper Dampening Extra firm shocks have the same negative effects on ride and handling as extra stiff springs. The tires cannot follow the road irregularities unless they are free to move in relation to the chassis. The relative motion must be as free as possible, but it also must be controlled. Shocks are used for CONTROL. If the shocks are too firm, the suspension will be over-dampened and the tires will not be able to keep in contact with the road. If there is no dampening, the suspension will cycle up and down at its natural frequency and again the tires will not keep in contact with the road. What is need is CRITICAL-DAMPENING, which means just enough control to keep the suspension from cycling. Run your shocks as soft as possible--just enough so the car doesn't wallow over bumps. Spring rates for the Street The purpose of suspension springs is to hold the car steady while allowing the wheels to follow road irregularities. In general, the softest possible springs will do this job best. Softer springs will allow each individual wheel to move in relation to the chassis while having the minimum effect on the driver's compartment. This translates into a soft ride, noise isolation and good handling. All stiffer springs do is make the car have a stiff ride. They have no capability to make a significant improvement in handling. As long as the springs on a car are stiff enough to keep the car from bottoming out, they are adequate. If a car is lowered, a slight increase in spring rate can be used to compensate for the reduced ride travel. Optimum road-holding demands that the tires be in contact with the pavement; a soft spring lets the wheels follow road irregularities so that the tires can generate maximum adhesion. Roll angle When a car rolls, the tires change their camber angle to the track surface. Since a tire develops its maximum traction when it runs perpendicular tot he track, this positive camber angle results in less cornering power. Less roll angle results in less positive camber, so a car will corner faster if the roll angle is kept small. Roll Stiffness The best way to control canber changes caused by body roll is to limit the roll angle by changing the ROLL STIFFNESS of the suspension. The two most common means of controlling the roll stiffness on any given car are via the springs and the stablilizer bars. SPRING RATES Increasing the spring rates will reduce roll angle. Unfortunately, raising the spring rates can also change other aspects of the car's handling. As an example, if a car had a front spring rate of 700lbs-inch and a roll angle of 2 degrees, and you wanted to reduce the roll angle to 1 degree, you'd need to install 1400lbs-in front springs. This would double the roll resistance. But increasing the spring rates this much would also upset the ride motions and cause the car to understeer. STABILIZER BARS The best way to increase roll stiffness is to increase the size of effectiveness of the STABILILZER BARS, which are sometimes called anti-roll bars.The stiffer the bar, the more resistance to body roll it can provide. Since the forces that cause the car to roll are being absorbed by the stabilizer bar, and these forces are fed into each lower control arm, the outside tire loadings will increase as the stabilizer bar twists. The stiffness of a stabilizer bar increases very quickly as its diameter is increased. The stiffness is a function of the diameter to the 4th power.
  11. Wheels Size isn't everything, they say. Well, maybe not in most cases, but when it comes to alloy wheels, size is everything. Getting the right size rims under your arches can make the world of difference to your cars looks and handling. Ignore the people who tell you to squeeze the biggest wheels you can under your arches. That is complete shite, because not only do oversized wheels make your car looks rediculous, it also completely ruins your cars handling. For example, 106's running 17" rims is way over the top. Your car wouldn't be able to turn corners very well at all, your full lock would be severly reduced, and the car would look like its on stilts. Its recommended that you go up 2 wheel sizes maximum, so if your running 14" wheels, then 16" wheels are the maximum you should fit, but this is not always the case. So as well as chosing the right size, you also need to chose the right style. Some rims look superb. Take the BBS CH rim, above. A beautiful alloy wheel, one of the most advanced rims BBS make, modelled on the Formula 1 design. However, while these rims look the dogs on VW's, they just don't look quite right on Peugeots and Citroens. For this reason, try and put the wheel up against your car, either at a friendly alloy dealer, or by using a WheelWizard on the web. This can save alot of trouble if you fit a rim, only to find that you don't like it on your car. But never forget that like all car modifications, its all about personal taste. What I might think looks brilliant on a VW Golf might look horrible to you..... Buying Info The first decisions you need to make are the size (diameter and width) and most importantly the style. The offset of the wheel is as important a factor as the diameter and width of the wheel. Putting wheels of the wrong offset on your car can dramatically affect its handling and steering, and at the extreme make the vehicle dangerous to drive. Check the size of the hub centre - this is the protrusion in the centre of the hub that the wheel rests on. The alloy is either cast with the correct size or adapter rings are added to make the wheel fit. Have you uprated your brake discs. i.e. gone bigger on the diameter - will they foul the wheel?? You may also have to mod (roll) your arches to prevent catching!! Correct wheel alignment is crucial to preserve expensive tyres and to prevent wear to bearings and ball joints etc. Once you know what your after, and have the size your after, phone as many companys as you can, there are loads of numbers in magazines like Max Power and Revs - also look on our Links page. Don't forget to phone local companys as they can sometimes surprise you... When your quoted a price make sure everything is included in the quote, i.e. fitting and delivery. If your definate on the size of rim and the size of tyre then buying them as complete package can save lots of those important beer tokens. Lastly, make sure your buying a rim that suits your car! People buying small rims (13-15") should stick with alloys with a thin rim, to make them look bigger. Offset Many people have been after a comprehensive list of wheel offsets for their car - so I decided to put one together. It now contains all current car models. If you know of any errors in this table - please contact us and we will check the information. Also, if you know of some offsets for cars we do not list, please contact us. http://www.moddedcars.com/styling/wheels.htm
  12. Read this post from the US-based Nissan Forums, and thought it was well said and put. Backpressure is a bad thing and I'd thought it be good to be more accurate in future representation.... : ========================= Anyways, I noticed something that really was getting on my nerves something fierce that people kept saying. "The GA motor needs backpressure to run right." B*LLSH*T! Whew. Sorry. I had to get that out of my system. On any car, with ANY size engine, BACKPRESSURE IS BAD. Re-read that kids. BACKPRESSURE IS BAD. The fact that the GA loses power with piping bigger than 2" has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING WHATSOEVER TO DO WITH BACKPRESSURE. It has to do with EXHAUST VELOCITY!!! When your exhaust is traveling through your piping, it is spinning around the outer diameter of the pipe. If the pipe is too small, it can't get out fast enough, and it causes backpressure, which, if you've been reading, is a BAD THING. If the piping is too big, the gasses can't swirl out fast enough, causing, you guessed it, BACKPRESSURE. If the piping is just right, the gasses swirl right out and in fact help suck out the exhaust gasses that are exiting from the engine. Let's recap. BACKPRESSURE IS BAD. Properly tuned exhaust systems let the exhaust gasses flow right out, creating NO BACKPRESSURE.
  13. does the ATF lubricate the auto-gear like the gearbox-oil in manual-gearbox ?
  14. Hi, This might not be something new. But a few of us were talking about it the other night and was wondering how people get to knows about MCF. Thanks.
  15. Guys, Been thinking for a while...is there any difference if ignition cables are arranged from the distributor the spark plugs? For example, 1-2-3-4 becomes 1-3-2-4...and so on?
  16. Hi Guys Does putting nitrogen gas in tires really enhances performance of the tire? This debate has been ongoing about the necessity of paying more for nitrogen and thus getting more performance out of it. Is it really essential? Can the driver really feel the difference? (Race cars aside). Please provide your personal hands-on experience. Thanks.
  17. I've decided get a Pre-amp/Equaliser to add on to my car. I need it because I want to add an "aux-in" to play MP3s using an external MP3 player. (Seems like a good enough reason to get one ) Any recommendations on a brand/model that is not too expensive (read cheap) and has multiple functions... (sub control, gain, ...) And any place in particular where I can get this done... Thanks
  18. Everyone seems to talk about Shell, Caltex, Esso/Mobil etc but how about BP? The BP petrol station is just next to my block and I thought of patronising them... Any comments of the fuel consumption? Thanks!!!
  19. I wana know if anyone can tell me the difference between the skyline GTR R32, GTR R33, and GTR R34. I can't really find much info on them except they all use the same engine, but not much else is said.... help would be nice.... tnx....
  20. I know in the market there are 3 main types of rims in general. The one piece, two piece and three piece. Other than the fact that the three piece and two piece rims come apart (therefore if one part of the rim is damage one only needs to buy the damage part and not a whole new rim) and cost more than a 1 piece rim; What are the advantages do the 2/3 piece rim have to a 1 piece rim?
  21. Came across this article while searching for more info of Philips Vision Plus. http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/info/bulbs/blue/good/ http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/info/bulbs/blue/bad/
  22. What do u think about Subaru cars in terms of: 1) maintenance cost 2) fuel consumption 3) availability of spare parts 4) services provided by Motor Image I am thinking of getting the new Subaru Impreza.
  23. Specs: (From Volvo UK site) Petrol engines Five-cylinder turbo petrol engines. Double overhead camshafts, 20 valves. Continuously variable valve timing (CVVT) on the exhaust or inlet side, depending on engine. Electronic engine management. Three-way catalytic converter with Lambda sensor. Engines with turbo also with charge-air cooler (Intercooler). DRIVELINE Front-wheel drive. Transverse engine. Five-speed manual all-synchromesh gearbox. As an alternative, there is a five-speed, electronically controlled automatic transmission with adaptive shifting pattern, winter mode and a lock-up function that reduces fuel consumption when cruising. The 200-bhp and 250-bhp turbo engines are also available with five-speed Geartronic adaptive automatic transmission, which allows manual shifts. The automatic transimission will be available on the D5 diesel engine from late 2001. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Multiplex digital electrical system with OBD (On Board Diagnosis). Battery capacity 12 V, 520 A(Volvo S60 D5 680 A). Alternator 120 A. STEERING GEAR Power assisted rack and pinion steering gear. Steplessly adjustable steering wheel, vertically and horizontally. 2.8
  24. Anybody have othe experiences with specialty spark plugs to share? http://trucks.about.com/library/weekly/aa0...pion+spark+plug
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