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I started about 5 months ago to stop driving on Sunday and let the car and the planet rest. It turned out I did save some money and got a chance to see what I have been driving through everyday from sitting in a bus. I thought it was tough but I made it for 5 straight months I thought it would be a good idea if forumers could chip in that is pledging to not to drive one day of the month: Please do show your support and put your nickname here thanks Caring drivers 1.Meecar 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. Thanks for caring for our environment. We are all very grateful to you.

Car Care: Paint-Care Myths and Reality With so much misinformation out there surrounding car care, it's no wonder people get confused about what's truth and what's fiction. By Rik Paul With so much misinformation out there surrounding car care, it's no wonder people get confused about what's truth and what's fiction. Paint care is definitely one area that can raise a lot of questions. To sort the myths from the reality, we talked to Mike Pennington, director of training for Meguiar's. Active with detailing professionals, show-car owners, and amateur enthusiasts, Pennington conducts regular paint-care classes and seminars and acts as technical consultant for many auto manufacturers and their dealerships-including BMW, Lexus, Nissan, Infiniti, and DaimlerChrysler-as well as such automotive paint manufacturers as DuPont, PPG, and BASF. Here's his insight into the paint-care quagmire. Natural 100-percent carnauba wax must be blended with other ingredients for a car wax that's easy to apply.Myth: A wax made of 100-percent carnauba is superior to those using lesser amounts. Reality: Carnauba wax has been a favorite among car enthusiasts for years, but don't believe that any wax is made of 100-percent carnauba. As the hardest natural wax known, carnauba is much too hard to apply directly to automotive paint. It comes in bricks that must be melted and added to a company's formulation. If a paint protectant advertises "pure carnauba," it means the part of the formula that is carnauba is pure, not that it's 100-percent carnauba. According to Pennington, today's synthetic polymer technology actually provides better protection than carnauba. Myth: Avoid a silicone-based wax. If used, the vehicle can't be repainted. Reality: It's true that silicones are a bane of the auto painter. For instance, if particles of silicone are on the sheetmetal when it's painted, they can keep the paint from adhering to the surface, causing defects known as fisheye. That's why some professional cleaners and polishes intended for shop use are formulated without silicone. However, once paint is on the car, silicone is no longer an issue. In fact, virtually every wax on the market uses some kind of silicone in its formula because it enhances the product's ease of application, gloss, and durability. If repainting is necessary, a body shop can easily take off the wax as part of its normal preparation. Myth: You can assume that a finish that looks glossy is in good shape. Reality: There are different degrees of glossiness, and a paint can dull so gradually you may not realize it's happening. For this reason, don't rely just on reflectivity to judge your paint's condition. Use your sense of touch, as well. Place your clean, dry hand flat against the paint and slowly rub it along the surface. Feel with both palm and fingertips. A well-maintained finish should feel smooth as glass. Any roughness could be due to oxidation, tree sap mist, or adhered grit, all of which degrade a paint's gloss to some degree. To avoid swirl marks, dry with a clean chamois or high-quality, thick-nap towel.Myth: Oxidation is a major problem for factory paint. Reality: Until a few years ago, this was definitely the case. Today, however, oxidation is no longer the concern it used to be. Ultraviolet radiation from the sun was once a finish's worst enemy, gradually causing the paint to deteriorate into a white, chalky dullness. In the last five to 10 years, new paint technology has come onto the scene that's much more resistant to UV, allowing new-car paint to hold up many years longer. With older cars, though, oxidation is still a problem an owner should be concerned with. Myth: Clear-coat finishes don't require waxing. Reality: Even though today's clear-coat finishes are much more resistant to UV radiation, they're still as susceptible to other environmental contamination. A clear coat is still just another layer of paint, and is subject to the same deterioration as paint with pigment. Therefore, periodic waxing is still recommended for maximum protection against the elements. Always use a non-abrasive formula labeled safe for clear coats. "The problem today is the stuff that lands on paint," says Pennington. Contaminants ranging from bird droppings and bugs to tree sap mist, industrial fallout, and airborne pollutants can adhere to the paint and gradually cause dulling and roughness. If left unattended, it can chemically etch into the paint, causing permanent scars. A quality wax can help keep the contaminants from bonding, but the best strategy is to wash them off before they can adhere. Myth: With modern "easy-care" formulas, paint scratches can be easily removed by hand. Reality: Scratches can be temporarily filled with some types of products, but they'll likely reappear after your first wash. The only sure way to eliminate scratches is to use an abrasive product-such as a cleaner-that removes enough of the surrounding paint to physically make the scratch appear less deep. Pennington notes, though, there's a wide range of scratches. Even with a cleaner, only the very lightest scratches can be removed by hand. As scratches deepen, they require more advanced methods, progressing in order from an orbital buffer, a dual-action polisher, a rotary polisher, and finally wet sanding. Scratches that go completely through a paint layer cannot be eliminated without repainting. The ol' flame-on-paint trick proves nothing about car-wax protection.Myth: Machine buffing is dangerous for paint. Reality: As mentioned above, there are different types of machines designed for buffing and polishing, and all are safe when matched with the right skill level. An orbital buffer, is the least aggressive type and can be easily used by the average do-it-yourselfer. A dual-action polisher is slightly more aggressive and therefore requires more care and skill to use safely. Finally, a professional-type rotary polisher can remove paint relatively quickly, making it a good choice for fixing damaged paint. This same trait, however, also makes it easier to burn through a paint layer unless used by an experienced person. Myth: Swirl marks or spiderwebbing are found mostly in old or abused paint. Reality: Even brand-new paint can quickly show spiderwebbing-very light scratches, often in a circular pattern, most easily seen in the reflection of a light. A number of products are designed to remove swirl marks, but Pennington emphasizes the real key is to find out what's causing them. Spiderwebbing is commonly caused by unseen dirt on a towel, sponge, or chamois, and can happen either at a carwash center (even those that handwash) or in your own driveway, while you're washing or drying your car. Even cheap towels can cause these marks. "Use a good quality terry towel with a thick nap," says Pennington, "and always use good car-care techniques." Myth: A good paint protectant can even protect against fire. Reality: Don't be misled by sleight-of-hand. You may have seen a car wax salesman demonstrate the durability of his product by lighting a flame on the surface of a car and then pointing out that his product's "superior protection" kept the paint from being damaged at all. What he sprays on the paint and ignites is lighter fluid, which burns extremely easily and quickly. In fact, the flame doesn't actually touch the paint surface because it's feeding off rising fumes. Usually, the paint gets no warmer than it would on a hot summer day, and you can place your hand on the spot immediately after the flame goes out and not be burned. Even paint with no protection at all will survive this test just fine.

Bros, i just come back from a local clinic cutting off away 2 'chicken eye' from my left foot. Doctor say the cause is from virus in the water that most people got it because bare foot or didn't take good care of the feet. Bare foot, that's how I wash my car, bare foot and didn't wash properly after washing and all the way till I dry and AIO, SG and details here and there. I told the doctor about how I wash my ride and suspect the cause of the 'chicken eye', he say it's advisable to wash finish to car, wash your feet and dry them before drying your ride. Leave your feet dry by itself might have let some washing shampoo which might will harm the feet and 'eat' under your skin. So maybe we need a new towel to clean our feet ? Cheers.

Link to original article There is a lot of confusion about the difference between a polish, and a wax. Many companies are marketing waxes and paint protectants as polishes and glazes and the terms have become almost interchangeable. Professionals know there is a big difference. Meguiar's is a true polish manufacture. That is, unlike many of our competitors that can only offer you a few products for cars with cured paint, Meguiar's product range runs from the highest quality finishing papers in the industry, to state-of-the-art pure synthetic paint protectants, to everything in-between. Example: Most companies only offer the following products: Car wash Pre-wax cleaner One or two waxes (usually some type of natural wax or polymer/silicone synthetic protectant) Multi-surface vinyl protectant And sometimes one or more of the following: Some type of wheel cleaner, leather treatment, or tire dressing.Because they offer such a limited selection, and often times don't even manufacture the products themselves, they really have no expertise when it comes to formulating complex products that professionals require as an intricate part of performing their job duties as skilled craftsman. This is why frequently you will see a product whose purpose is to protect the paint labeled as a polish. Instead of merely defining the difference between a polish and a wax, below you will find the Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle and the products and procedures for each of the 5 steps. Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle The 5-step paint care cycle outlines the 5 basic but important procedures and the accompanying products that enable you to restore and maintain a show car shine on your car's finish. Below are the 5 categories of products including pure polishes and cleaner/polishes as they are placed in the 5-step paint care cycle. The 5-Step Paint Care Cycle includes: Step 1 Washing Product Procedure Wash Solutions Washing Washing removes loose surface dirt and loose contaminants that have not yet bonded to the surface. All Meguiar's wash products are specially formulated to clean well without stripping wax protection or dulling and drying out all paint types. All Meguiar's washes also contain special conditioning agents that leave behind a slick, high gloss surface. Because most people wash their car more than any other procedure, it's important to use a car wash solution that is specifically formulated for the unique chemistry used to make modern clear coats. Above all, avoid using common dishwashing detergents because these products are extremely harsh and tend to dull the finish down with each use. Dish soaps are also hard on other materials and components such as rubber, vinyl and plastics, remember, when you wash your car with dish soap everything is subjected to the dulling and drying effects high alkaline soaps cause to your vehicle. Step 2 Cleaning or Surface Prep Product Procedure Paint cleaners Removing below surface defects Clay bars Removing above surface contaminants Surface Prep includes both paint cleaning (not to be confused with the washing step), and claying the finish (with a clay bar). To help you accomplish these two steps, Meguiar's offers a number of safe but effective paint cleaners and an easy to use clay bar kit that includes everything you need to clay your car's finish. Paint Cleaners This includes highly specialized Compounds and Paint Cleaners, which utilize both microscopic and macroscopic diminishing abrasives

Hi Guys, Now that I got my ride, would like some advise for Skoda Car Care. 1. Should I wax? or Glare? 2. There are so many in the market, which should I go for? 3. VAG mechanics to recommend for Skoda supporters? Saw the one posted by Lightspeed, but just wanted to hear your views out, if not right to post out rightly, please PM me. 4. After market side view lamps with signal light indicators? TIA!

just to share my experience shopping for car care products online on a US website, autogeek. products i bought: 1 x optimum car kit (includes car wash, car wax, protectant plus, 1 MF towel, 1 applicator pad) -- US$29.99 3 x meguiars' plush wash mitt -- US$17.97 product total: US$47.96 + $7.99 UPS shipping = $55.95 (assuming 1.62 => S$90.70) used vpost to ship, shipping charge came up to unexpectedly high of S$47. total damage = S$137.70 so now, suppose i buy the products locally, optimum from a local website and the wash mitts from carrefour. optimum car wash -- $23.50 car wax -- $35.50 protectant plus -- $28.50 wash mitt @ carrefour -- $18 x 3 total local price = S$141.50 and this does not include the MF towel and applicator pad in the kit... conclusion? at the end of the day, it's only a marginal bargain for diying yourself, and if local distributors can give better discounts, should be cheaper to buy from them.

Hi guys, I read this from somewhere: "A common complaint made by many car owners is a bad smell from the air-con after a year or so of driving. This is caused by mould forming in the system and it can be easily prevented. Make it a habit to switch off both the air-con compressor (by pressing the

Hi, Anyone can advice the different the two Autoglym product, read the info from www.autoglym.com but can't figure out. Am looking for some product to clean up my black trims and clean my red bumper. thks

With the popularity of beige coloured leather, leather cleaning is more important than ever. I am finding that its not really easy to maintain. Anyone got good recommendations for DIY leather cleaning that will not cause more harm than good?

Very good source of reference for DIY checks and maintenance!!! For all car lovers. http://www.icarumba.com/cobrands/contentmo...ter/default.asp

Any brothers/sisters here drive white car? How do you maintain your car to prevent it from turning yellowish? Any recommendation of products to maintain it? Thanks.

Can any1 advise the proper way to apply autoglym bumper care?? I started with using those terry cloth then found the tat it start to leave string of cloth on the bumper stripes. Then recently apply using toothbrush, easier but think too thick. Now it sticking leaves n dirt and still looking very sticky. At least its black. Should I use sponge instead? Btw its sticky since the NY eve when I 1st apply....

anyone care to give me some advices on this type of car shampoo i am using....i am not sure whether i will be using it as i just went for waxing and sealant. maybe i should just stick to wash and wax. but this shampoo really good at removing dirt... but shine i not sure.... so what should i do? shine or remove dirt? my car is white

To all bros and sis, I have been reading up from the forum about the various products. Would like to know where I can get them ? I have been to places like IMM Giant, Carrefour and Home-fix. What other places I can pay a visit ? Would appreciate if addresses are provided.

the above brand was launched recently. detailing gurus, any comment on the above range of products?

http://doityourself.com/auto/ Finding Your Way Under The Hood & Around The Car Introduction Engine Exterior Inspection Keep An Eye On Your Car's Filters A Roadside Emergency: Would you Know What to Do? Flats and Jumpstarts Breakdowns Preventive Measures What You Should Know About Your Car's Drive Train Introduction Definitions Tips Which Way To Go? Replace Your Car Or Rebuild Your Engine Replace Rebuild Why Rebuild What's in a Rebuilt Engine Performance Annual Vehicle Inspection: Introduction Maintenance Tips When to Have Your Brakes Serviced: Introduction Cylinders and Sensors Brakes How to Keep Your Wheels on the Road: Bad Shocks Warning Signs Tips Is it Time for a Tune-Up Yet?: Introduction Hard Starting, Knocking, Stalling Power Loss and Poor Gas Mileage Dieseling, Exhaust Odor, Rough Running Auto FAQ's: Air Conditioner Belt, Coolant, Guage and Pump Brake Electrical Oil Tire and Alignment Transmission Windshield Miscellaneous Automotive Questions Prepare Your Car for the Seasons: Introduction Prepare your Car for Winter A Winter Coat For Your Car Prepare Your Car for Summer Electrical Ignition Emmission and Fuel Cooling and Under Lube, Visibility and Paint Emergency Kit Tips Car Maintenance Info: Auto Body Repair & Refinishing: Touch up Small Rust Spots Car Care Investments: Increasing the Longevity of Your Car Car Maintenance Tips Car Stereo Speakers in Dash Choose a Repair Shop Clean Car Battery Clean Up Your Engine and Save Get Better Automotive Service How to Change Your Oil Polishing Mag Wheels and Chrome Tip Profits in The Auto Polishing Business Profits in The Auto Tune Up Business Repair a Dent in a Car Repair an Auto Ding Stuck Oil Filter Tip NEW! Time for a Change Tint Removal Tips to Make Your Vehicle Go the Distance How to Help Your Car Keep its Cool Engine Check Cooling System Check Clean, Flush, Refill Various Auto Pages Car-ramba! Down on the Farm: Harvesting the Agricultural Parts Market Fueling the Future: The Road to Zero Emissions [/color]Learning to Drive a Standard Transmission Made Easy Pump Up Your Product Remanufacturing: The Original Recycling Take a New Look at Recycling: These Programs Save Money, While Keeping Regulators Happy The Automotive Technician Shortage The Extended Drain Interval Debate

anyone knows of leather conditioners which have a leather scent. Other than mothers and z10. I would rather prefer those available off the shelf. easier to buy. tried searching posts here, only found z10 and mothers. anything else??

Hi all, I'm driving a year 2000 Accent 1.5. At 150km, my fuel gauge is at 3/4, at 250km, the fuel gauge is near to mid-way mark. Is my Accent fuel consumption high or low? What about other Accent owners, how are your fuel consumption like? Regards, limws

hi, Seek your comments/advice in these How do you take care of new leather seats ? e.g. how often do u apply the leather cleaner/conditioner What brand of conditioner do u used and why. thanks

Anyone used the Leather Master by Dr Torke? Seen a box on the shelf and is pretty tempted to get one. Homefix selling at $39.90. Inside the box comes with 2 bottle of conditioner, cleaner and an ink remover stick. Comments?