Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'engine'.
-
Hi all I have a 2007 Nissan Latio (Premium with CVT gearbox) that produces rumbling noise at low speed or when the engine is experiencing load. The noise is especially evident at cold start and the noise got louder over the past whole year. I brought it to a mechanic and was told initially that the engine mounting might be damaged. Then when i urged the mechanic to confirm again, I was told that the catalytic converter might be the one vibrating and causing the issue. Any bro here got the same problem as me? anyone know whats wrong? -
Hi all anybody got reliable mechanic to recommend if I want to diao one (JDM) Honda EK3 engine (+ harness, electrical....so that everything works properly) into my vehicle? Of course the mech should have lobang to source the engine from Jap. Ever since I fried the engine and did top overhaul, I still have niggling issues with the engine after all the repairs and figured the best thing is to change the heart, some minor organs and arteries. Gum siah anybody who have recommendation. Gum siah! -
http://paultan.org/2011/12/22/driven-proto...st-impressions/ A turbocharged MPV!!! I feel like ripping out the engine and drop it into my Neo. Proton also drop the VVL and change it to VVT for the intake (I think it is to improve FC).
-
Guyz, anyone experienced a bladdy loud sound when you attempt to accelerate fast from 80 upwards ? I was driving at 80 and stepped my accelerator down, then suddenly got a bladdly loud cranking sound. Any advise or anyone experience this ?
-
1. I was one of the judges during the SiTF 2015 Awards and one of the participants was this interesting company call Neutrinos Engineering Pte. Ltd. 2. Their product that they pitched is one that clean the car engine (specifically the carbon deposit) using dry hydrogen. I was convinced and went for the cleaning as I'm interested to see how much carbon is deposited in my 8+ yrs old car and the results was a shock to me - glad I went for this service. Below is the result/report: 3. Forumers who are planning to renew their COE or is driving a 10+ years car may wish to consider this service as well. 4. List of workshops that provide this service: http://neutrinos.com.sg/where-to-get/ 5. Found a write up of this service in sgcarmart: http://www.mycarforum.com/index.php?app=sgcarstore&req=showprod&product=82492 6. A Youtube video that explains what is this all about: 7. Their other Youtube videos: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDbN10Qy4r5DIDM9pWqJIlw 8. Their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/NeutoTherapy Declaration: I have no vested interest in Neutrinos Engineering Pte. Ltd. -
Just send my car for servicing last wednesday (100k servicing) and also change front and back shock absorbers. Was introduced to this engine oil and auto transmission oil by the workshop and after a day of driving, what a surprised. The engine was purring with less vibrations now at traffic junctions and shifting of gears by auto transmission were so smooth that I did not feel the shift.... I am using Miller's oil for both and was told that it was made in England. Also came to know that this engine oil use by high performance cars. From now on will only go for Miller's Engine oil and transmission oil .....
-
Asking for a friend. These lights turned 'ON' after his wife skidded ( but didnt lose control). Now even after resetting ecu and disconnecting battery supply. A shop said his brake accumulator is damaged and need to be changed at a cost of 4ks. Anyone had this problem before? TIA. -
Today, I encountered a strange problem. The car suddenly revving between 1000rpm to 2000rpm. I was not stepping of the accelerator. Even when the gear is put to P or N, the needle went up and down. When reaching traffic light, I needed to step hardware in order to brake. Anyone encounter such an issue before?
-
Tried to search for topics with regards to this but couldn't find any. Has anyone here put water into their engines to decarbonise the upper cylinders? Well here I am to share my experience... Been hearing about adding water into the engine and all sorts of amazing things happen... Since the 90s. I have tried nail polish (acetone) into the fuel tank to improve FC, as well as moth balls... Also tried 2T, which I simply love and have started to use racing ester 2T. Love the smell... Lol But I have not tried water into the engine until recently. My engine started to cough during start ups some months ago... I thought it was natural as it was coming of age.... Then when I did my last plug change I realised one of the plugs had a washer failure and leaked. But even after new plugs my engine still couldn't start immediately at 1st crank all of the time. Only maybe like say 30% of the time. So after some research, I decided to feed my trusty engine some water. I bought a small bottle of distiller water from Watsons, and a small spray bottle. Took out the part before my throttle body and after my airflow sensor. Started the engine and it died due to the error readings on the AFS I guess. Started the engine again and sprayed like 2-3 squirts of the water directly into the throttle body... Engine rpm dropped till like it was going to stall for a second or two, then back to normal... Then I would spray again. And repeat this for over 5mins. Then I wiped of the excess water in and around the throttle body, and fixed everything back. Started the engine and did some revving... Note the engine check light might be on and won't go away. You can google how to reset your error codes for your car model, or simply disconnect your battery for some cars. Do note your radio and all will be reset as well. For me I didn't want my ice settings gone so I used the scan gauge to reset my error code. So after I went onto the expressway to try out the difference, I could immediately feel the throttle sharper and more responsive. Over the next few days, ALL I repeat ALL my starts were with 1 crank and my ride was so mush nicer to drive. Felt like a new oil change or new plugs... Lol Now this water thingy will surely not do wonders to a failing engine. But to a good condition engine this made it work better. And I have nothing but good things to say about this. Hydrogen cleaning? What the hell do you call this? Lol. Go search and check out Eric the car guy and many other videos on the water into the engine thing. It's amazing... And there are videos to show how water, hydrogen and oxygen can combust till it removes carbon deposits... We don't need any seafoam or other expensive stuff in the market to do this... Just water... Lol
- 22 replies
-
- 3
-
-
- decarbon with water
- diy decarbon
- (and 5 more)
-
Hello MCFs, We are located at 25 Kaki Bukit Road 4, Synergy Building, #01-52 S(417800) Currently, we have a whole range of engine oil for your to choose. All our engine oil are API-SN approved. We choose 5W-40 engine oil to cater to Singapore temperature and fuss free change! Emara Engine Oil Change Starting from $88 onwards. Ultralube Engine Oil Change Starting at $88 onwards. Come down now to find out more!
-
Make: Hyundai Tucson Mileage: 2k plus Already done the 1k servicing n for the past 2 days, realised that the engine's sound is loud (rough) when pressing the oil. Kindly advise what is the cause of it cause I wanna know more before going back to AD. Thanks & Regards
-
Hi Folks, Need some help from those car experts here. My car uses a keyless entry/push-start button system. It is factory fitted (JDM). In the last week or so, I started having issues opening doors. Intermittently I'll have to press the door button / keys a few times before the doors will unlock. Today for the first time, my car could not even start! The key could not be detected! Finally after letting the engine rest for a couple of mins, I managed to get it started again. I've changed my key batteries. Confirmed also not the car battery since I changed it only in Feb 2012. What other possibilities are there? Also if the engine can't detect my keys again, what else can I do to get it started so that I can drive it to the workshop? Appreciate your help. Cheers!
-
Anyone have tried 0W-40 engine oil? any positive feedback?
-
To all bros using Proton Gen2,Satria Neo,Persona,Saga Blm,Exora and Preve If your engine got squeak sound especially during cold start its either your fanbelt that's need silicone spray/Belt spray or just rub a soap under the belting.For cars under 15000km its normal cause of driving under raining condition.If squeaking during you turn on a/c it's mostly your tensioner bearings that probably worn out.This applied to cars under 30000km.If continuously got squeaking then probably your belts having stress out due to over tightened or loose,You probably have to get it check asap.Campro timing belt it's best to change during 60000-70000km not 80000 as per recommend cause our engine is Alloy and generate a lot of heat compared to others especially always drive during afternoon.Campro belting and tensioner brands is also not so durable compared to japs or other makes.For engine with IAFM if occurred a knocking sound it's not tappet but its mostly the inlet manifold and canister purge valve.Get this at JB eon for under 370 rm.Most Svc Ctr will say your iafm gone case and would charge you a hefty 1150 to replace!The new manifold is slightly improved over the previous gen cause its a new hard plastic material.For IAFM without modification it's best using 50series eo ie 10W-50,5W-50 or even 15W-50.For normal Campro recommend is 15W-40 or 20W-40 and CPS its 5W-30(Exora CPS) or 10W-30..For auto cars its better use drop in stainless steel filters suchs as K&N,Simota,Works engineering or Project S.For manual can go for open pod with heat shield and better with cold air intake.Extractor recommend is 4-2-1 for auto and 4-1 for manual.4-2-1 for manual is also recommend if you want low and mid torque.Campulley etc better buy from R3 as they can remapped your ecu tally with those gadgets you install.Remember most aftermarket workshops don't really knows about Campro engine so if in doubt get an advice and do diagnose at Proton Svc Ctr before doin top overhaul of remapping your ecu.
-
I know this is a weird topic but I really just wanna reach out to people who have this engine so as to share info. Please feel free to comment if you are knowledgeable on this topic. I am starting this topic for the MR16DDT engine, known as the 1.6 DIG-T engine in Nissan cars. It is a turbo charged direct injection 1618cc engine. So far, in local context I only know 3 car models use it. Please share if you know more. - Renault Clio RS (200HP, 240nm?) - Nissan Juke Turbo (187HP, 240nm) - Nissan Sylphy SSS (187HP, 240nm) I am driving a SSS. The Sylphy threads are very inactive and there does not seem to be any fellow SSS drivers around. I am going for 10k servicing soon. Had been using Tan Chong's mineral oil at 1k, 5k servicing and wanna use syn oil for next servicing as engine should have break-in now and starting on 10k intervals next. Tan Chong has their own in-house brand syn oil. I am thinking of bringing my own oil but not sure which type to use. Can anyone share what oil they had used for this engine? Should i get xW30 or xW40 oil? I don't go to the tracks at all. -
Hi, I driving a stock Colt Plus Turbo. I had been hitting a temperature of average 90 to 95 when moving and about 95 when station. Is it normal for a turbo car? What are the advise you guys can give me? Does installing a engine coolant kit helps? Thanks
-
Is there any offer on good engine oil currently?
-
To those driving the small cc models with turbo like Ford's Ecoboost or VW's TSI, do you agree with their report? http://pressroom.consumerreports.org/press...my-entry-2.html
-
Hi Gentlemen, Does anyone know if Optra's engine valve clearance need to be adjusted ? or is it auto adjusted by hydraulic ? Recently, during engine idling, I can hear a faint "tap tap" sound. Otherwise the car run smooth. Any advice from bro here?
-
Hi guys, just wanted to find out if is it normal for a 9 year old car to have minor engine oil leaks ? I found out that by doing some test : ie putting some newspaper underneath the engine. Every morning saw a slight dip on the paper...And I have sent this to the workshop - the above issue was repaired (with replacing some oil gasket and stuff) when the oil leak was bigger portion. But this issue came back with minor oil dip now.. Also, after parking car , i always can smell the fuels odour smell coming from fuels tank and underneath (not exos since exos smell is different). Sent to workshop , there was some leak from the fuels reservoir tank , the technician apply some residue to 'wash away' the fuels and the workshop manager request to apply gum on the leak area since it is old car. No point replacing . The good thing is the salesperson is a responsible person and absorb about 80% of the repair payment . But the fuels odour came back again. Darn it..how.. My previous Mitsubishi dun have such issue except throttle valve which cost me close to S$1K.
-
Went for a servicing promotion at a certain workshop. Too cheap to be true... Brand 'X' fully syn 5w40 selling at $110 and above at most workshops. But selling at only $35 nett at this workshop inclusive of oil filter. which means.. $15 for labour and $8 for oil fiter = $12 for 4 litre of engine oil fully syn (Brand 'X' is quite a known brand). Went to try thinking "how bad could it be?". So head down after making an appt, standard checks were done, oil drained etc etc. Then comes the part when they fill my oil. Suddenly the mechanic took out a very dirty opened engine oil bottle. So my first instinct was to stop him and asked him what was that? And there wasn't any 'Brand X' label on the bottle. He told me 'Brand X' was drawn from an oil drum through a pump and showed me where it was. The oil drum showed 'Brand X' but there wasn't any label on it. Just handwritten with a marker 5w40. So he told me he pumped out the oil from the oil drum to the spare bottle and fill it for me through the spare bottle. So i thought to myself, maybe it's a cost saving method. Fine with me. So i asked him, is it because it comes without the fancy packaging that's why its so cheap? Nope. he told me its a same as the main series except with lousier quality. Also, he said and i quote "So far no one complain." Right then i felt very uncomfortable with his reply so i went back home to google the distributor's number and called them asking if this practice is standard among workshops. Do they produce lousier quality oil of the same series in bulk? The convo between me and the distributor will be kept private. But they said they will investigate the matter. Just for your info, i am not complaining on the workshop hoping they get into trouble or whatever, my main intention for calling the distributor is to check if they are selling the oils by the barrel and that this oil is legit from Brand 'X'. Also, what rating and series is the oil in the barrel so that i can plan my next servicing. Thats all. and i am not asking for a refund etc. Just a peace of mind. The above is to let you know more about the situation so you can give your views. My question here is, are there recycled or fake engine oil circulating around? What do u think could be inside the oil barrel? Could it be cheap oil using Brand 'X' name as the cover? Anyone had similar experience mind sharing? On a fair note, the engine wasn't rough and it felt normal. Colour of the oil was a tad lighter but similar to all the normal engine oil. Note: It is very very unlikely (though not impossible) that they are running some super promotion. 1) They are not advertising the promotion openly at their shop and fb page. 2) my convo with the distributor strongly suggest so unless they decide to do some 'charity' work.
-
hi guys i'm looking for items to beef up my engine. currently running dc5 stock engine. was thinking of getting cams and maybe intake. anybody has suggestions? i've alr done my exo and decat so i'm just gonna leave it as that. thanks in advance guys! if anybody is selling used parts for dc5 or k20a please let me know!
-
Anyone using it and how would you rate their quality ? Thank you!
-
peepoopeepooo https://www.facebook.com/Mpora/videos/10152697660547854/
-
Hi, just wondering if anyone has any experience with adjustable cam gear? Any improvement in torque so far?
