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  1. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BrcchCbq_vw
  2. hi guys been driving manual car for more than six months already... time to move up! so going to try driving my dad's IS200... i only know the very basic of how to drive an auto car which is basically to step on gas when moving and step on brake at all times when u dun want the car to move... search resource folder liao but no dummy's guide to auto trans cars so can give me some tips on fine points of driving auto trans, what to take note of etc? coz heard auto transmission spoil already super ex to repair... thanks!
  3. I know tat some bros here have changed their exhaust tips, but it requires them to cut off the curved portion and weld on the new one. I am actually looking for those bolt-on kind where i can bolt it onto the original tip. Reason being i do not want to cut off the curve portion of the original exhaust and have the new one welded on. Any bros can advise? Thanks.
  4. This is a 1.8 liter stick shift Toyota 1zz-fe engine. My usual fuel economy for the last three years on this car has been 12.7 to 13.6 km/lit. I always measure my FC carefully, always top up and wait until warning lights come up. If the pump tops up differently, it should even out if I go to the same pump over a few times. I usually stick with major brand fuel stations, but recently, I used a no-name fuel station near my work place. Suddenly the FC is boosted to 14.5 km/lit. It has been constantly 14 to 15 range, the max is 15.3 km/lit. I've been getting this results for MONTHS, no snake oil tricks on my car (except diy grounding). I'm suspecting that big brand names fuel have already marketed their brand name so much that they know people are loyal to their fuel. Then, they *may* put additives to their fuel that "cleans" your engine but leads to 5% drop in fuel economy, which is good for their business. The lesson is to try out different brands, you may be surprised.
  5. Hello everyone, I suggest most would know that i am driving a tomyam MT vios. really loved this car, much more power than my previous nissan.... actually, i am very used to it le.... dun miss my old nissan le... but one problem i encounter is... say if you are stuck in a jam.... start-stop-go condition... we often engage in gear 1, rev, speed is like 10-20km... then upshift to gear 2... speed is 20+km/h... but hor the traffic is like sxxt... you tap brake, speed reduced to 10+km/h.... like this, what would u do? drive at 10+km/h at gear 2, or shift into gear 1??? i dun like the idea of shifting into gear 1... coz for me, that is seldom used... unless i pick off from stationary or really speedometer register <10km/h... which you can't even see.... like this how huh? i drive at gear 2 at 10++km/h, like engine cough cough.. not good for engine.. but engaging in gear 1, its like hard to engage and not good for engine right? since ur speed is alreadie 10++km/h.... stuck in dilemma here can any pro manual drivers teach me? thanks..
  6. Anyone knows if welded exhaust tips legal in the eyes of LTA......how big a size are you allowed...is there black & white from LTA? Has anyone with welded exhaust tips on stock muffler gone for inspection?
  7. I was asked to give some tips to klasse and I reviewed your sticky and there are some more preferred methods. I mean no offense I'm just trying to give some information. One of the magor distributors of klasse in the states is Bill North, he uses a sceenname David N at http://www.detailersclub.com/ . He recommends a different method than your apply 20 minutes then buff off. His method is WOWO, or Wipe On Wipe Off. Klasse doesn't need to dry, just wipe off immedialty and you wont get any streaks. Also, when wiping if you put too much just use a little water and it will help with removal. When I used klasse I left it on overnight and buffed off the next day, it worked for me. The problem occurs when you let dry, but the longer you let it dry the easier it is to buff off. I hope this was helpful. I will say eventhough Bill (David N) sold klasse for decades but doesn't care for the new formula. If you have a questions ask him directly, he can also give you other product recommendations. He's a moderator over at http://www.detailersclub.com/ .
  8. recently, any1 encounter that M custom officers asking whether u need to change their currency? After giving the S$, there isnt any currency in return. if u keep waiting, officer will give u a stack of white card. if u persist waiting, a bigger stack of white card will be given. till the car behind u ...horning n u hv no choice but proceed w/o getting your wanted currency.
  9. http://www.eng-tips.com/ These are the experts. The hardcore. The battered and the bruised for the advancement of engineering. They got a pretty good automotive section. Venture forth for insights. The search function requires you to join as a member. This forum damn power siah! Got member criticize a poster and tell him to at least wait until he graduated from engineering school before posting in the Eng-Tips.
  10. An intro to Klasse here at http://www.premiumautocare.com/klasse.html For those using Klasse, here are some application tips, taken from one of the detailing threads. AIO = All-In-One SG = Sealant Glaze The Application And while applying Klasse isn
  11. Hi everyone, can anyone enlighten me to the various possible scenarios leading to large amounts of carbon build-up on the tips of the exhaust? Temperature? Mixture? Oil? Fouling? Thanks guys.
  12. Hi-Glaze88 Application Tips Product Name: Hi-Glaze88 Product Type: Polish/Sealant Cost: ~S$17 for 500ml bottle, ~S$32 for 1litre bottle Availability: Locally, from most petrol stations and car accessories shops. Feels like: Smooth thin glass. Application: - Use a foam applicator [eg. Meguairs foam applicator, round shaped, yellow ~10cm in diameter] - Apply in long [~30cm] overlapping oval strokes in the direction of air flow over the car body - Start with the tops surfaces first..like the roof, bonnet, and boot. Then move on the front quarter panels, rear quarter panels and doors. - Once you have finished application, it will be just right to start buffing off the panel with which you started first. - Paintwork should feel like smooth glass after buffing. Other Uses: Add one capful into normal car shampoo wash. [inline HiGlaze88.jpg]
  13. Extracted from : http://www.zainostore.com/...ory_Code=APPLICATION ZAINO APPLICATION TIPS 1. Because Zaino Show Car Polish is optically perfect (99.9%) The optimum results are achieved by using over wax free paint. 2. If you are looking for the ultimate paint surface preparation. Use Z-18
  14. I personally feels the lancer 03 is rather unstable at cornering, anyone got tips or recommendations on lowering the car? not too low but enough to improve the handling the turbo verion has lowered 15mm any idea what would be a good brand or place to do the lowering? thnx in advance
  15. Hi everyone Just got my new ride 2 days ago - Toyota Altis, silver color, my first car. I need help in the following area: 1. Run in? What the hell is that? The SE never tell me anything about that... I was cruising at 100 plus the 2nd day...bad? 2. I have read lots of posting about car care+polishing...can anyone offer advise when to start a good maintanace? My wife said that I'm crazy when I start washing my car this morning...hahaha 3. What's the right step to do? => wash? then sealant?(Just brought the only kind of sealant found in carriefour... a simoniz liq. diamond polymer sealant) But now after reading all the posting here feel like throwing it away liao. rgds
  16. Applying All-In-One by Hand: Wash and dry vehicle. Work in a shaded area out of direct sunlight. Check for paint contamination. Place your hand in a small plastic bag (i.e. Glad Sandwich Bag) and gently run your fingertips over the car
  17. 1)never RUSH!!! car value drop 95% of the time. only 5% it increase. 2)never let the SE pressure you to buy. never make decision when pressured 3)do ur research 4)try not to buy frm girl especially chiou bu 5)join mass order for discount 6)be thick skin. ask for freebies and discounts. ard 3-5k worth 7)bring frens along (those whu knows how to bargain) = less chance to be "eaten" by SE 8)have a customer is king mentality. you are paying tens of thousand so better get good service. dun beg the SE - like in BM 9)fill in ur views
  18. Hey i would like to know where to get cheap bodykits for my civic sir 99 ? And i would like to know where to fix the wire mesh? any bros here can help?
  19. Just gotten my new ride have not done anything, any info on how to improve pickup / speed? Leagal mods that is. Also is there any legal turbo charger for this car? IT a Lancer Sports 1.6A
  20. Getting my new ride tomorrow.Any lao chiao brothers here who can advise on what to check and ask my SE tomolo ? Zoom Zoom!
  21. http://www.autohausaz.com/html/tech_tips.html Auto Repair #1: Brake Repairs Needed? Don't Take Chances with Your Brakes - Repair Them Now Auto Repair #2: Cooling System Repairs: It's Easy to Prevent Breakdowns BEFORE They Happen Auto Repair #3: Fuel Pumps & Fuel Injection Repairs Auto Repair #4: Troubleshooting Noises Coming From Your Import Car (Is Your Car Trying to Tell You Something?) Auto Repair #5: Engine Knock? Low Oil Pressure? How To Diagnose Needed Repairs Auto Repair #6: Use These Tips When Shopping for Import Parts & Save Big $$ on Auto Repairs Auto Repair #7: Tuneup & Auto Maintenance Tips to Lengthen Your Import Car's Life Auto Repair #8: Replacing Wiper Blades Regularly Saves Lives & Windshields Auto Repair #9: Understanding Your Import Car's Electrical System Auto Repair #10: Oxygen Sensors Are Critical Key to Passing Emissions Auto Repair #11: Know Your VIN & Get Exactly the RIGHT Auto Repair Parts Every Time Auto Repair #12: Perform Monthly Car Maintenance & Keep Auto Repair Costs Way Down
  22. http://doityourself.com/auto/ Finding Your Way Under The Hood & Around The Car Introduction Engine Exterior Inspection Keep An Eye On Your Car's Filters A Roadside Emergency: Would you Know What to Do? Flats and Jumpstarts Breakdowns Preventive Measures What You Should Know About Your Car's Drive Train Introduction Definitions Tips Which Way To Go? Replace Your Car Or Rebuild Your Engine Replace Rebuild Why Rebuild What's in a Rebuilt Engine Performance Annual Vehicle Inspection: Introduction Maintenance Tips When to Have Your Brakes Serviced: Introduction Cylinders and Sensors Brakes How to Keep Your Wheels on the Road: Bad Shocks Warning Signs Tips Is it Time for a Tune-Up Yet?: Introduction Hard Starting, Knocking, Stalling Power Loss and Poor Gas Mileage Dieseling, Exhaust Odor, Rough Running Auto FAQ's: Air Conditioner Belt, Coolant, Guage and Pump Brake Electrical Oil Tire and Alignment Transmission Windshield Miscellaneous Automotive Questions Prepare Your Car for the Seasons: Introduction Prepare your Car for Winter A Winter Coat For Your Car Prepare Your Car for Summer Electrical Ignition Emmission and Fuel Cooling and Under Lube, Visibility and Paint Emergency Kit Tips Car Maintenance Info: Auto Body Repair & Refinishing: Touch up Small Rust Spots Car Care Investments: Increasing the Longevity of Your Car Car Maintenance Tips Car Stereo Speakers in Dash Choose a Repair Shop Clean Car Battery Clean Up Your Engine and Save Get Better Automotive Service How to Change Your Oil Polishing Mag Wheels and Chrome Tip Profits in The Auto Polishing Business Profits in The Auto Tune Up Business Repair a Dent in a Car Repair an Auto Ding Stuck Oil Filter Tip NEW! Time for a Change Tint Removal Tips to Make Your Vehicle Go the Distance How to Help Your Car Keep its Cool Engine Check Cooling System Check Clean, Flush, Refill Various Auto Pages Car-ramba! Down on the Farm: Harvesting the Agricultural Parts Market Fueling the Future: The Road to Zero Emissions [/color]Learning to Drive a Standard Transmission Made Easy Pump Up Your Product Remanufacturing: The Original Recycling Take a New Look at Recycling: These Programs Save Money, While Keeping Regulators Happy The Automotive Technician Shortage The Extended Drain Interval Debate
  23. I've attached a document with the application guide. SHINE ON! Klasse Application Tips.doc
  24. "Every car finish shares a common enemy. It relentlessly pursues your car from the second it leaves the factory until your car meets its ultimate demise. The enemy is pollution. It's in the air we breathe, it's on the roads we drive, and it attaches to your car's paint, where it bonds and begins a process of oxidation. When contaminates get a solid grip on your car's paint, washing alone may not be enough to remove them. Pre-wax cleaners, also, may not be able to exfoliate large particles. In this case, you have two choices, use a polishing compound, which removes a lot of paint material, or use a clay bar. Clay isn't a polish or a compound. Clay is a surface preparation bar that smoothes the paint and exfoliates contaminates..........." more at the link below: http://www.autopia-carcare.com/cleanwitclay.html CLEANING WITH CLAYBAR "Clay is a surface preparation bar that smoothes the paint and exfoliates contaminants." Every car finish shares a common enemy: pollution. It relentlessly pursues your car from the second it leaves the factory until your car meets its ultimate demise. It's in the air we breathe, it's on the roads we drive, and it attaches to your car's paint, where it bonds and begins a process of oxidation. Surface contamination, as shown by this diagram, are difficult to clean or polish off, yet paint cleaning clay removes it with ease. When contaminants get a solid grip on your car's paint, washing alone may not be enough to remove them. Pre-wax cleaners also may not be able to exfoliate large particles. In this case, you have two choices: use a polishing compound, which removes a lot of paint material, or use a clay bar. Clay isn't a polish or a compound, it is a surface preparation bar that smoothes the paint and exfoliates contaminants. USES FOR CLAY Clay is not a cure-all or a replacement for polishing. It's a tool for removing surface contamination. One of the many reasons for using clay is the removal of brake dust. Brake dust contamination, which attaches to painted rear bumpers and adjoining surfaces, is a metallic surface contaminant that can be removed safely and effectively by using clay. Holly is using a natural clay bar to remove heavy oxidation and paint contamination on the trunk of her car. She's using a detailing spray as the lubricant. Soapy water works equally well. The paint surface needs to be well lubricated or the clay will stick. Clay is also very effective on paint over-spray. If the over-spray is particularly heavy, you may want to seek the assistance of a professional. Tree sap and tar specks can also be safely removed with a clay bar. Recently, I have also started using clay on my windows (exterior) to remove heavy road film, bug deposits and water spots. It works very well, and seems to outperform even the best window cleaners. EVALUATING YOUR PAINT FOR CLAY How do you know if you need to use a clay bar? After thoroughly hand washing your car, feel the surface of your car's paint. Do you feel bumps and rough spots? These bumps are contaminants attacking the finish of your car. Removing these surface contaminants (road tar, acid rain spots, bug residue, paint over-spray, brake pad dust, hard water spots, etc.) will improve both the look and health of your car's paint. By the way, you can magnify your sense of touch by inserting your fingertips into a sandwich bag or a piece of cellophane. No matter how well you hand-wash your car, many of the contaminants that have worked their way into your car's paint finish will remain. Have you ever looked at your foam wax applicator pad after applying a coat of wax? What do you think that black stuff is? It's dirt, and you're waxing over it, sealing it in. CLAY SAFETY Clay itself isn't new. In fact, it's one of the most common compounds on earth. However, it is fairly new to the car detailing market. Clay bars are made of fine clay particles in a soft, malleable "clay" medium that allows the bar to be formed and kneaded. Some clay makers add color to make the bar more attractive or to identify bars of differing strength (coarseness). Many clay products claim to contain no abrasives. This is stretching the truth. The reason many clay manufacturers claim their products don't contain an abrasive is because the general public thinks the word "abrasive" refers only to aggressive, paint removing materials. The fact is the abrasives in most automotive clay products are so fine that you will not see any reduction in paint gloss. After several uses, paint luster may even improve. Still, I have heard some horror stories about people ruining a Ferrari paint job using a clay bar. I can see how this might be true if an inappropriate product was used or if a clay bar was used incorrectly. USING CLAY Before using a clay bar on your car, you must thoroughly clean and dry your car to remove any loose dirt. Direct sunlight should not fall on your car's surface, and it's best if the work area is relatively cool to prevent rapid evaporation of the clay lubricant. To use the clay bar, you spray a water-based lubricant on a small area of your car and rub the bar back and forth with light to medium pressure. If the lubricant begins to dry, you'll need to spray more. Clay bars are fairly sticky, and cannot be used dry. Try using it dry and you'll make a big mess. After a few passes with the clay bar, rub your hand over the area to feel if the surface contamination was removed. Keep rubbing until all contamination bumps are gone. Finally, wipe the clay residue off with a soft terrycloth towel, and buff to a nice luster. Just like waxing, work in small areas. Check the clay bar frequently for hard particles. When found, pick them off. Make it a habit to occasionally knead and reform the bar so that a fresh portion of the bar contacts your car's paint. If you drop your bar of clay on the ground, it's history. Toss it out. Don't take any chances, discard the clay bar if it becomes impregnated with grit. Read the manufacturers' directions for the number of uses of their clay bar. Do not overuse a clay bar. When you're finished claying your car, you should wash it to remove the lubricant film, then go over it with a pre-wax cleaner to finish cleaning the paint. Finally, seal your freshly cleaned paint with your choice of wax or sealant. SUMMARY Automotive paint cleaning clay offers many advantages in the removal of surface contamination from paint. Even in the hands of a first-time user, it is difficult to do any damage to your paint with clay. Sure, if you use a dirty clay bar, scratches can result. However, compared to machine buffing, compounding, or using harsh chemicals, clay is much safer and easier to use.
  25. Interesting article : SPARK PLUGS We have had this one before, but readers are still asking about types of sparking plug and which are the best for power. Please note: muti-earth electrode plugs are not designed to increase power output. The only reason they are becoming popular is that the service intervals are getting so long that a normal plug wears out before the service is due. By having two or three electrodes, the spark can choose the shortest path to earth which means it moves about as they wear down - and therefore the service life is extended. For power output, the real trick is finding the right grade of plug. Plugs with similar grades from different manufacturers are not exactly the same which is why some people find one brand of plug better than another in one particular engine. You have to experiment with each engine to see what it likes. FLYWHEELS Lighten and balance are words we often use, without stopping to explain exactly what we mean and why they're important. For instance, what are 'lightened' flywheels and why do they allow the engine to generate more power? Well for starters they do not affect the power output of the engine one way or another. Let's begin with why we have a flywheel in the first place; it's more than just somewhere to put the clutch and starter ring gear. The flywheel effectively stores the energy acting on the crankshaft. It smooths out the pulses from the firing cylinders and reduces the tendency of the engine to rock on idle. It allows lazy gear shifting by keeping up engine rpm when the clutch is depressed and the throttle is closed during gear changes. This is fine on a family car but we look for something different. The down side of the heavy flywheel is that it takes energy to accelerate it, energy that could be better employed in accelerating the car. The way to think of it is that every gram taken off the flywheel is like one gram (multiplied by the overall gear ratio) taken off the car. For example, reduce the flywheel weight by 1kg and with an overall gear ratio of 10.1 your car is effectively 10kg lighter. Note now that 1kg off the centre of the flywheel is not as effective as 1kg off the outside - now I'm sure you are getting the picture. The lighter flywheel also allows the engine to slow down quicker so gear changes can be made in a hurry. Generally speaking, for a competition engine you cannot have the flywheel (and clutch assembly) too light. CAMSHAFTS We get a lot of enquiries about camshaft specs where readers are trying to fathom out which camshaft to buy. Sadly the numbers given by manufacturers only give you a clue as to what performance you can expect from a camshaft. So much depends on what you do with rest of the engine, and the exhaust in particular. As an example, I have seen a 300 degree camshaft in a Pinto regularly peak at 6,400rpm. But when the exhaust is swapped from a 4-2-1 to a 4-1 design, peak power shifts up towards the 8,000rpm mark. But this isn't a general rule, the lengths and design of the 4-1 system are critical. If you get the lengths right you need not lose out on bottom end or mid-range power either. Generally it would appear that a 4-2-1 design will ultimately give you better results on a competition engine. Going around the country on rolling road tours I regularly find that the best engines use 4-1 manifolds rather than 4-2-1 but that isn't always the case, there are plenty of Pintos making 200bhp on 4-2-1 systems. From our own experience the exhaust has a major influence on how well the camshaft works - or doesn't work. On our Golf we tried a 300 degree cam which gained 2bhp on peak and lost power everywhere else. But then we refitted the stock cam and Magnex developed an exhaust manifold and system for us. The exhaust picked up some l2bhp on the stock cam but when we fit/ed our 300 degree camshaft we gained l4bhp on peak with improved mid-range. As with all engine mods you have to look at the overall pictures before you start making up general rules to apply to all engines. from Demon Tweeks 2002
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