Active vs Passive Setup

[Unclesoong]

It is very clear that your HU has the full active crossover function and your amp does not have one.

So set all the crossover functions at your amp to FULL to bypass them.

Then:

 

1)set your HU level to -3db and adjust your speaker level at the amp so that the listening level is just good enough-not too loud nor too soft, using good quality & branded CDs, not those ciplak ones.

2)to start with, set your HPF to the tweeters at 3,150hz at 18db/oct slope.

3)set your bandpass to your mids at 80hz(HPF) and 2,500hz(LPF), again at 18db/oct slope.

4)set the LPF to your sub at 80hz, at 24db/oct slope.

5)switch off all the bass boost.

6)forget about the rear speakers.

 

From here, use some of your favourite CDs to fine tune.

Happy tuning.

Edited December 4, 2005 by Unclesoong

[Xiaogary]

Firstly, thanks a lot for your help. I sure appreciate it.

 

If 3,150Hz at 18dB/oct slope for tweeter, then the tweeter will receive some frequency below 3,150Hz also right, since it slope gently into the band pass area.

 

Then bass pass upper limit is 2,500Hz (LPF), how about from 2,500 to 3,150Hz range? Some frequency will be missing right? I mean these frequency will not be output by the tweeter or the mid, maybe a bit from both since there is some slope of the 18dB/oct stretching thru the 2,500 to 3,150Hz range.

 

Low pass for sub at 80Hz meaning the heart aching mid bass(abt 100 to 125Hz) is handled by the mid only right, subwoofer do not help to pump this frequency of heart aching bass right?

 

As for rear speaker, really no solution? I really enjoy those 4 point speaker surround effect, or I should only get a 2 channel amp to drive them for rear fill? I dont think my HU is powerful enuf to drive them right? The CDT CL62 is 150W to 250W. My HU only 17 or 18W rms per channel.

[Unclesoong]

That's why I said in the last sentence-to fine tune.

Due to car interior accoustics, some times it is not a bad idea to keep a gap in between the frequencies, neither it is to overlap some frequencies.

The golden rule is -trust your ears.

Try difeerent settings until you achieve the best suited to you.

Yes, let the mids handles those 100hz or so frequencies and let the sub give you that rumbling sensation.

If you really need those surround effect, then use a pair of mids (without tweeters)at the rear and power them with a 2 channel amp and HP them slightly above 200hz.

But with these rear speakers, your stage depth will be compromised.

Edited December 5, 2005 by Unclesoong

[Kwongwing]

One question - don't whether stupid, or not - let's say I want to go active - can I still use the speakers' original passive x-over just for connecting the tweeters (sort of as a form of protection for the tweets), and use the HU's x-over to drive the mid-bass?

Or does that defeat the purpose of going active in the first place?

[Unclesoong]

You are not going full active at all.

The passives pre-determine your HPF to the tweeters and you can only bandpass your mids.

[Kwongwing]

OK - thanks! I was thinking then one can still control relative volumes between tweets & mid-bass speakers whilst having some form of protection for the tweets which usually are the most likely to blow in an active set-up.

 

Anyway - though I would like to try going active sometime later on - boot space constraint - no more space for any more amps

[Xiaogary]

can try underseat mounting or roof top inverted mounting...hehe

[Wbucket]

I read somewhere the passive cross-over that usually comes with normal component will only work when the whole set-up is connected properly. Meaning for 2 way, mids and tweeter must be connected, or for 3-way, mids, tweeters and sub must be connected, for the filtering to work. If not connected fully, the filtering might not work as it should be.

[Kwongwing]

Just a thought that's all on my part to go active.

Anyway the passive x-over for my 2-way component spkrs actually allow for 4 channels to be connected to the x-over itself. I am actually using jumper cables to bridge the HP and LP terminals on the x-over now!

[Wbucket]

That is some special cross-over. Most cross-over will take in 1 signal is slit them to the respective speakers, yours a bit funny. Is the cross-over point adjust-able?

[Kwongwing]

The x-over allows bi-amping lol - but x-over point not adjustable. Only switch for attenutaing the HF by -3db & -6db. I have it currently at the "0" level.

Anyway, not going to go active this year - no more further ICE project for the year!

Going away next week and only coming back after Christmas

Waiting for a pre-amp - ETA Feb 2006; then decide what else to do thereafter!

Though some did mention to be to get a Class A/B amp to drive my sub-woofer ... hmmmmm ...

[Kermit]

KW,

 

I heard the year ending in a few day's time? Miss you (r car) leh....

[Kwongwing]

Aiyoh

I should be at the meet-up next Wednesday, 28 Dec - if it's still on and not too tired out from the trip!!!

 

Merry Christmas & Happy New Year to all.

[Anthonyfd3s]

do i need very gd spks to use active??? cos some says tat if u overload then ur spks will gone hell... need to put something like.. something which act as fuse... is it true??? will it sound great differene on active aompare to passive?? better?? or depends..

[Unclesoong]

UNTRUE!!

As long as you are not sending clipped signals to your speakers, you will not be having problems with yur speakers.

If you run active, just be careful on your HPF on the tweeters, setting them above 3khz usually should be OK.

Putting those resister caps on the tweeters will compromise the details and resolution of your high frequencies and a big no no!!

Active systems do not mean better sounding as compared to passive systems.

Just that active systems allow you more flexibility in tuning to improve on your staging and imaging.

Edited December 24, 2005 by Unclesoong

[Slonez]

Uncle,

 

Are you the uncle soong from KL driving the Camry when we met about a year back?

[Unclesoong]

Yes, now driving the Accord.

[Bosebani]

>>Yes, now driving the Accord. >>

 

 

With new 7990r