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Engine Oil Change - Vacuum or Drip Method?


Vinceng
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Seems like I resurrect an old thread [;)]

 

During the very initial dripping process, I dont notice sludge or thicker substance which leads me to think that vacuum will do the job as well, it will be like using a tube to suck the s--t out of the fish tank?

 

The oil is already well warm up and properly stirred after we drive it to the Workshop, so I believe vacuum might be even better than dripping.

 

Best of all is most of the oil are being suck out.

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drip method

 

vaccum wont work on the current vehicle

 

dip stick hole not big enough....or maybe certain workshops have a better machine

 

i am ok with both

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Not a problem at all, most of the vacuuming machines /units does come with flexible plastic hoses of few sizes. For some European vehicles the makers have actually put in place a metal tube within the dip stick opening complete with quick connecting fitting.

 

PS Most of the vacuum oil changers are powered by shop compressed air which are used to either operate a diaphragm pump or use to create vacuum via a venturi or vortex opening.

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I think vacuum method is good for DIY. Cause don't need ot jack up car and climb underneath. Less hassle and spillage compared to unscrewing the drain bolt.

 

 

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Seems like I resurrect an old thread [;)]

 

During the very initial dripping process, I dont notice sludge or thicker substance which leads me to think that vacuum will do the job as well, it will be like using a tube to suck the s--t out of the fish tank?

 

The oil is already well warm up and properly stirred after we drive it to the Workshop, so I believe vacuum might be even better than dripping.

 

Best of all is most of the oil are being suck out.

 

Seriously, if there is sludge build up in your engine, neither method will be effective. This is because the sludge actually sticks onto the engine components and walls. Even a flush alone may not be sufficient to remove it. The oil becomes a thick grease like substance...I seen it once in a WS while the person is tearing the engine apart for rebuilding. ITs really horrible.

 

But then it only occurs to those who do not maintain the engine properly.

 

As long as you change oil regularly, the oil left in the engine does not matter at all.

 

 

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Sorry to revive an old thread

 

Is it ok to use the vaccuum method to change CVT gear oil (or any transmission oil) also?

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I change my ATF using vacuum method at whitesnail before, seems like it can drain out more than regular drip method. While most other workshop i visited use drip method. Drip seems to be the cheaper option.

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Neutral Newbie

Neither one if good, maybe you can ask the workshop which is a better option for your car.It would be bette this way.


Neither one is good, maybe you can ask the workshop which is a better option for your car.It would be better this way.

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(edited)

I change my ATF using vacuum method at whitesnail before, seems like it can drain out more than regular drip method. While most other workshop i visited use drip method. Drip seems to be the cheaper option.

 

ATF damn hard to access drain plug so vacuum is easier

 

Edited by Rustyz
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(edited)

Sorry to revive an old thread, I just wanted to ask those people who uses vacuum oil pumps if these are good to extract deposits and sludge after using engine flush additive?

 

So:

1 - add engine flush additive into your engine’s oil-filler port

2 - idle the engine for about 10-15 minutes

3 - use oil pump to extract the oil and garbage

 

Anyone done this? Experiences?

 

Or is it better to drain the oil the old way? But I think it's not because junk will end up in the oil filter anyway? And we will change the filter, of course, before adding a new oil.

 

Thanks.

Edited by maya77
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Sorry to revive an old thread, I just wanted to ask those people who uses vacuum oil pumps if these are good to extract deposits and sludge after using engine flush additive?

 

So:

1 - add engine flush additive into your engine’s oil-filler port

2 - idle the engine for about 10-15 minutes

3 - use oil pump to extract the oil and garbage

 

Anyone done this? Experiences?

 

Or is it better to drain the oil the old way? But I think it's not because junk will end up in the oil filter anyway? And we will change the filter, of course, before adding a new oil.

 

Thanks.

 

https://www.mycarforum.com/topic/2680861-do-not-engine-flush/?hl=%2Bengine+%2Bflush

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Thanks but I'm going to do it for a reason, because some stupid idiot poured an old oil into my car. Then hydraulic lifters started knocking, then I discovered it's dirty oil. I hope oil pump and rod bearings are not damaged. It's not the old car, I'm going to do it myself, and not with some unknown liquid or kerosine but Liquid Moly Engine Flush. Hope it will do its job.

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(edited)

Thanks but I'm going to do it for a reason, because some stupid idiot poured an old oil into my car. Then hydraulic lifters started knocking, then I discovered it's dirty oil. I hope oil pump and rod bearings are not damaged. It's not the old car, I'm going to do it myself, and not with some unknown liquid or kerosine but Liquid Moly Engine Flush. Hope it will do its job.

 

Go  to a shop that has air powered oil/fluid extractor , DIY type using hand pump are rather weak in the extraction volume and speed

Edited by Yeobh
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Supersonic

Sorry to revive an old thread, I just wanted to ask those people who uses vacuum oil pumps if these are good to extract deposits and sludge after using engine flush additive?

 

So:

1 - add engine flush additive into your engine’s oil-filler port

2 - idle the engine for about 10-15 minutes

3 - use oil pump to extract the oil and garbage

 

Anyone done this? Experiences?

 

Or is it better to drain the oil the old way? But I think it's not because junk will end up in the oil filter anyway? And we will change the filter, of course, before adding a new oil.

 

Thanks.

 

I've used the manual vacuum pump quite a few times.

 

It depends on the engine type. For some it's easy to push the tube to reach the bottom of the oil pan.

For others, it appears the path for the tube is blocked and can't push down all the way.

 

If you're able to insert the tube down all the way, (usually through the dipstick path), you'll remove a lot more oil, than letting it drip through the oil pan hole.

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Yeah - did the vacuum method a few times. I poured another 100ml or so for fresh oil and extracted till clear oil was being sucked out. No issues.

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