Seeking Help from Inexperienced Driver

[Mllcg]

throttle body damn easy one.

 

my car can stall on NEUTRAL gear.

 

then clean throttle body, problem fixed.

[Ken4555]

throttle body damn easy one.

 

my car can stall on NEUTRAL gear.

 

then clean throttle body, problem fixed.

 

your car how old?... ppl's car how old?... how to compare?... plus your car eng eng full throttle one...

[Mllcg]

your car how old?... ppl's car how old?... how to compare?... plus your car eng eng full throttle one...

 

my car got 8 years more to go la.

 

still new

[Acertey]

u should try cityzen.sg

 

1. Gear Box problem or oil required flushing, or change to a new type(E.g. Elf), or needed additives such as oil concentrate

gb juddering..it depends if 0-1500rpm ... or 1500-2000 rpm

 

if judder when start is startup clutch (wear n tear)

if 1500-2000rpm juddering shall be gb problem...

Mine seems to be like both, if in my case let's say i do a gearbox flush and use the HMMF(recommended from internet also), the only thing i am worried about is will flushing spoil more items?

 

2. Flywheel Problem(Internet)

possible... very jerking... u might have problem do a reverse also buit different people report differently...but cfm jerky

i think high chance i can rule this out.

 

3. Tension Bearing Problem(Internet)

this one.. i havent heard of 1 from cityzen

this one probably just run a check to confirm

 

4. Clean intake manifold + sensor.(Internet)

this one must find julian to clean.. or bruce...

Where about in Bro? Do you know the price estimation?

 

5. Undercarriage got some noise(WS, already checked but found no leakage)

what noise?? front ??rear?? front arb crack?? suspension bushing worn??wheel bearing?? did workshop hoist up and do a wheel spin ?

It's like a whistling sound, the exhaust supposed to go all the way out to the behind. Somehow in between seems to hear some whistling sound like it not push the power all the way behind. I checked this at Man Exhaust, he said no problem. Do you believe i need a 2nd opinion?

 

6. Engine mounting(Traces of crack)

if ur ride is vtec, u wack u will hear a thud sound which is the left mounting... and use only honda / OEM which is oil type..not rubber only..

that day i confirm this via a Honda Service center, indeed he got show me the mounting wear and tear. Btw if we found 1 mounting spoil, are we supposed to change the full set or just problem mounting?

 

7. Fuel Injection System Timing Out

hmm... not sure.. but if ur ride is pure stock... and u r the only owner.. i think u just plug in the ob2 and check for error code!! invest in a scanguage2 reader... and this one can transfer to many other jap modem (not sure about conti/korean)

actually this 1, i really not sure. I showed my car to Honda, they didn't use any gauge lah. But they say no fault lights, unless got some more but not for naked eyes.

 

ur problem is erratic..

BTW 80k also include aircon belt change..

 

i just did my 80k @KM and i only change a mounting... oh man.. u got a 'lemon'

 

Thanks itsec, very comprehensive.

 

[Maroon5]

Hi man, thanks, where can i go about doing it?

 

if u stil trust them, the workshop you went for the 80k servicing shd b able to handle it. quite small jobs, ard 30mins and $50.

[Nightsky]

u should try cityzen.sg

 

1. Gear Box problem or oil required flushing, or change to a new type(E.g. Elf), or needed additives such as oil concentrate

gb juddering..it depends if 0-1500rpm ... or 1500-2000 rpm

 

if judder when start is startup clutch (wear n tear)

if 1500-2000rpm juddering shall be gb problem...

 

Yup, similar problem on my ex-boss's city 4g, start-up clutch issue. However his mileage was 140k when it happened

[Beachboy7718]

Idle also juddering, that's during the warm up stage. Air con kicks in can hear, it's a little bit better.

 

It may due to the idle timing setting and ask the workshop to check. As long as your engine is not die out, I guess it is fine with small juddering. If shake too much, adjust the idle timing. About other wear and tear parts, when problem comes, can repair then repair else replace. It is the way it is. If anticipating/foreseeing major problems and high costs of repairs and trouble, perhaps sth wrong with this car. Can sell it and find another reliable car to replace it to save the maintenance costs and time.

[Xcen]

bro, it maybe your alternator bearing that needs to replace....

i got this problem before

[Ken4555]

bro, it maybe your alternator bearing that needs to replace....

i got this problem before

 

you sure anot?....

[Ken4555]

my car got 8 years more to go la.

 

still new

 

sorry sorry yes yes brand new condition i remember...

 

 

[Jpcc]

actually not very clear over your statement :

my FC to suffer badly by about 80km.

 

Does it mean you have a baseline of (say full tank, 500km) now it reaches only 420km, need to pump?

 

Jerking has several reasons, as you have already found in various forums and internet.

 

Is your car a pre-owned car or you are the first owner?

80k km wear and tear, driving style (boy racer), servicing consistently, or even a lemon car can cause issue.

 

But yeah,

I would think

1. gear box (change CVTF)

2. engine mount (change if required)

3. scangauge to monitor

 

For this car, I would be careful not to go JB for servicing yet unless you have good contacts.

Cuz u r not sure if this is a lemon, and still want travel far just to save some bucks??

 

Better to make sure this car is a reliable/ dependable ride before changing to a cheaper workshop.

 

my 2 cents.

[Mecontle]

i think u meant seeking help For an inexperienced driver

[Aaron_soh80]

Hi there.. driving a 4G city too.. i didnt face all this prb u mention so far ..mine already 90k liao..

u can try call this guy name eddie ( 92723423) for help.. he is specialise in honday city/jazz/fit.. cnf will solve ur problem..

 

[Acertey]

actually not very clear over your statement :

my FC to suffer badly by about 80km.

 

Does it mean you have a baseline of (say full tank, 500km) now it reaches only 420km, need to pump?

 

Jerking has several reasons, as you have already found in various forums and internet.

 

Is your car a pre-owned car or you are the first owner?

80k km wear and tear, driving style (boy racer), servicing consistently, or even a lemon car can cause issue.

 

But yeah,

I would think

1. gear box (change CVTF)

2. engine mount (change if required)

3. scangauge to monitor

 

For this car, I would be careful not to go JB for servicing yet unless you have good contacts.

Cuz u r not sure if this is a lemon, and still want travel far just to save some bucks??

 

Better to make sure this car is a reliable/ dependable ride before changing to a cheaper workshop.

 

my 2 cents.

 

Hi bro, many thanks for your insight.

I'm the 1st owner for this car, however it was fully utilize by my wife the last 4yrs(Really can't comment how my wife use this car, engine on, can move can liao.). Recently it got handed to me becos of job location change. You are right to say that in my 1st full tank i usually covered about 500km, but recent 4 weeks i have been covering about 400km. I still can't think of a logical explanation of why the FC is so bad. Even in this, if we solve the juddering problem it might not lead to significant improvement in FC. Probably heavy footed, causing this problem. In last week i actually controlled by driving style, with all air con off when i was alone. Managed to attain about 480km. Though i am not expecting this to perform like a lexus, or high end car, but i really hope to be able to drive this car at least for the next 3yrs or even until such time that COE drops significantly. I think many brothers are waiting as well.

 

Actually 1 of the problems i have is not having a reliable or rather consistent WS. I usually go here, and there on friends recommendation, but have usually never stayed long enough due to price and service factor, waiting time etc. I guess that's how it ended up as a lemon. I haven't got good contacts in JB, but again cos of friends recommendations for flushing which they usually do in JB, i am considering to give it a try. Actually another big concern i have is the fault suspected was very random, there was almost no place which can pinpoint the exact problem. That's the help i needed in getting a recommended WS, i have actually shortlisted Riverview Auto, hearing that it's good.

 

Actually i have a plan not sure if it is feasible:

Find a workshop or even go back to Kah Motor and check following items:

Gear box and CVT flushing(Will probably switch to HMFF, heard that it might work);

Ignition Cables Check;

Fuel Ignition Timing Check;

Check bottom car for any leakage or unwanted vibrations,

Engine Mounting Check(By the way do you guys only change those which cracked or change it as a set?)

Add in a 2nd hand Scanguage for learning new driving method/ improvements

 

Any more recommendations?

[Jpcc]

I think this car is not exactly a lemon, since you are the first owner, and it has served you well for quite some time.

Engine ages and will deteriorate faster if it is not well taken care of.

 

I.e. not sure if your wife service your car every 10k km. CVT gear box is recommended to change CVTF every 40k km, but most careful city or Jazz owners change at 20k km to protect the gearbox, which is the major pain point for an otherwise, quite reliable b&b car. Some may even add oil extreme additives during the cvtf oil change.

 

Engine mount, depends on condition and whether the workshop is honest.

But mostly, it depends on car condition, sometimes need to change only two, or even one, but if really koyak, need to change all three.

 

I think AutoDynamac (Ubi), Riverview or Eddie (buddyclub) are all fine choices with honest and competent guys.

 

Do you pump in Malaysia often, if not, the fuel in Singapore is quite clean (or so i heard).

 

I would think problem definition is more important to describe the issues (you faced) and let them diagnose, isolate for you.

 

For FC matters, most will suggest control your right foot.

Scangauge has parameters , e.g. LHK or LOD which will give u almost real time display (maybe 1-2 sec delay) on your fuel economy, such that you can adjust accordingly.

 

 

[Acertey]

I think this car is not exactly a lemon, since you are the first owner, and it has served you well for quite some time.

Engine ages and will deteriorate faster if it is not well taken care of.

 

I.e. not sure if your wife service your car every 10k km. CVT gear box is recommended to change CVTF every 40k km, but most careful city or Jazz owners change at 20k km to protect the gearbox, which is the major pain point for an otherwise, quite reliable b&b car. Some may even add oil extreme additives during the cvtf oil change.

 

Engine mount, depends on condition and whether the workshop is honest.

But mostly, it depends on car condition, sometimes need to change only two, or even one, but if really koyak, need to change all three.

 

I think AutoDynamac (Ubi), Riverview or Eddie (buddyclub) are all fine choices with honest and competent guys.

 

Do you pump in Malaysia often, if not, the fuel in Singapore is quite clean (or so i heard).

 

I would think problem definition is more important to describe the issues (you faced) and let them diagnose, isolate for you.

 

For FC matters, most will suggest control your right foot.

Scangauge has parameters , e.g. LHK or LOD which will give u almost real time display (maybe 1-2 sec delay) on your fuel economy, such that you can adjust accordingly.

 

Hi bro, thanks for your response especially for suggesting autodynamac, i'll try to give them a call to access the damage.

 

In fact all my servicing are done on time as in 10,000km, so far the oils that i used are pretty reputable. Such as Amsoil, Shell Helix, OWS etc.

 

Petrol wise, 99% in singapore on a 95 SPC. Ocassionally in JB if i go. but last pump in JB is about last year.

[Ucypmas]

I think it might be worth trying to replace engine mounting. Usually you will replace the whole set because they age about the same - one crack and the rest might follow closely behind.

 

I had a previous car where there was this juddering when moving off. Once the car gets into motion it goes away. When I checked it was due to engine / transmission mounts worn out. Workshop replaced it and car was fine afterwards. Loose mounts also cause car to lose some power - might contribute to FC loss. However the car was RWD, since Vios is a FWD not sure if the engine mount worn out might cause similar problems but I think there's likelihood this will be the case.

 

Engine mounts dampens vibrations and holds things in place. Once the mounts are worn there will be more vibrations throughout the car. Worth trying this if you don't want to do anything else first.

[Acertey]

I think it might be worth trying to replace engine mounting. Usually you will replace the whole set because they age about the same - one crack and the rest might follow closely behind.

 

I had a previous car where there was this juddering when moving off. Once the car gets into motion it goes away. When I checked it was due to engine / transmission mounts worn out. Workshop replaced it and car was fine afterwards. Loose mounts also cause car to lose some power - might contribute to FC loss. However the car was RWD, since Vios is a FWD not sure if the engine mount worn out might cause similar problems but I think there's likelihood this will be the case.

 

Engine mounts dampens vibrations and holds things in place. Once the mounts are worn there will be more vibrations throughout the car. Worth trying this if you don't want to do anything else first.

 

Thanks brothers.

 

1 more curious thought cos i felt suspension also getting pretty bouncy recently especially when go over hump. Can poor suspension contribute to vibration while on the road and cause FC impact? Lolz, i starting to be a complain king, maybe should consider a new ride...