Do NOT engine flush

[Phillim]

Almost reaching 50, owned previously 6 cars, now on 7th, all until about 150,000 mileage and highest was about 240,000. From mineral oil those days until synthetic now.

 

My recommendation, if on mineral every 5k oil change and recommended service. If on synthetic, every 10k...

 

Suggested top overhaul at around 120k - 140k, and total overhaul only when suggested by a trusted workshop or if you feel like rebuilding a very old car (250k and above, but even my last car at about 240k was still ok before I sold off).

 

I serviced my previous Tucson eo at about every 5-8k with sun (overdoing it a bit) and the transmission oil at about every two intervals, but the car was in fine condition (about 140k) when I let it go.

 

I think owners should save money and look more into areas like the schedules for timing belt/chains, water pumps, transmission oil, brakes, transaxle (if you have) oil and a few other parts with regular engine oil servicing, cos when these go... heavy $$$ down the sump.

 

All these and never did a flush before.

 

There is no maintenance-free car, many parts will break down due to wear & tear and will require replacements and repairs for all these parts (which are many in the lifespan of owning a car), so save your money for all these replacements/repairs and regular servicing.

 

 

 

 

[FourZero]

Phillim, totally on your side on your recommendation. :-)

[Seabreeze]

 

 

There r several reasons for poor FC.

 

U can try: Change air filter n plugs. Regular service oil n filter. Check 4 wheel alignment. Pump tires to correct pressure. Check brakes not binding.

 

What else. I can only think of these now.

 

Also remember to ensure workshop uses all the correct parts like plugs n filters n oil.

I just change my spark plugs at last servicing n e FC went poorer, could it be the mech did not gap e plugs? or what it meant by gap??

[Pisces69]

I just change my spark plugs at last servicing n e FC went poorer, could it be the mech did not gap e plugs? or what it meant by gap??

 

 

OK if immediately after your service yr FC got worse then likely something during it caused the poor FC.

 

Cud b plugs not correct heat range/gap not correct or not tightened properly or low quality plugs.

 

It cud b other things too like new air filter wrong type or oil heavier etc.

 

If u do suspect the gap of plugs, is there any difference with your idling or power when u accelerate. Wrong gap size wil affect these too.

 

Oh cud also b the plug leads were damaged when yr mech unplug n plug them in. U can also check yr coils packs if one or more is gone. U can DIY these checks if u know how.

Edited May 25, 2014 by Pisces69

[Pisces69]

Almost reaching 50, owned previously 6 cars, now on 7th, all until about 150,000 mileage and highest was about 240,000. From mineral oil those days until synthetic now.

 

My recommendation, if on mineral every 5k oil change and recommended service. If on synthetic, every 10k...

 

Suggested top overhaul at around 120k - 140k, and total overhaul only when suggested by a trusted workshop or if you feel like rebuilding a very old car (250k and above, but even my last car at about 240k was still ok before I sold off).

 

I serviced my previous Tucson eo at about every 5-8k with sun (overdoing it a bit) and the transmission oil at about every two intervals, but the car was in fine condition (about 140k) when I let it go.

 

I think owners should save money and look more into areas like the schedules for timing belt/chains, water pumps, transmission oil, brakes, transaxle (if you have) oil and a few other parts with regular engine oil servicing, cos when these go... heavy $$$ down the sump.

 

All these and never did a flush before.

 

There is no maintenance-free car, many parts will break down due to wear & tear and will require replacements and repairs for all these parts (which are many in the lifespan of owning a car), so save your money for all these replacements/repairs and regular servicing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fully agree with yr above post.

 

Only re-building engine nowadays usually unnecessary cos newer engines can last very long. Like most of my earlier cars I drove till 10 yrs then scrap without any need for an engine re-build.

 

Even my Totota Corona I drove till 20 years n 400K km without any need for a re-build cos the engine was still very tight without any oil loss at all.

 

Even the top-overahaul like grind valves, etc I also never needed to do even on the 20 year old Corona.

[Phillim]

Phillim, totally on your side on your recommendation. :-)

Thanks bro

[Hamburger]

I just change my spark plugs at last servicing n e FC went poorer, could it be the mech did not gap e plugs? or what it meant by gap??

 

SP gap are pre-set and seldom needs regapping.Eg. 0.9mm. 1.1mm etc...

 

maybe its the wrong type, too cold or too hot.

[Naimed]

I just change my spark plugs at last servicing n e FC went poorer, could it be the mech did not gap e plugs? or what it meant by gap??

 

Different cars have different specs (heat range, gap) for their spark plugs. So it is good to follow your car's manual when you change during servicing.

 

Example of spark plug gap:

 

 

It can be measured and re-gapped by a gapping tool:

 

 

As mentioned by others, bad FC can be affected by many other things not only spark plugs.

[FourZero]

Naimed, well shared. :-)

[Cyberian]

Someone told me to use EO to do engine flush ans ATF for transmission flush Anyone heard of it before?

 

[Yuan]

Almost reaching 50, owned previously 6 cars, now on 7th, all until about 150,000 mileage and highest was about 240,000. From mineral oil those days until synthetic now.

 

My recommendation, if on mineral every 5k oil change and recommended service. If on synthetic, every 10k...

 

Suggested top overhaul at around 120k - 140k, and total overhaul only when suggested by a trusted workshop or if you feel like rebuilding a very old car (250k and above, but even my last car at about 240k was still ok before I sold off).

 

I serviced my previous Tucson eo at about every 5-8k with sun (overdoing it a bit) and the transmission oil at about every two intervals, but the car was in fine condition (about 140k) when I let it go.

 

I think owners should save money and look more into areas like the schedules for timing belt/chains, water pumps, transmission oil, brakes, transaxle (if you have) oil and a few other parts with regular engine oil servicing, cos when these go... heavy $$$ down the sump.

 

All these and never did a flush before.

 

There is no maintenance-free car, many parts will break down due to wear & tear and will require replacements and repairs for all these parts (which are many in the lifespan of owning a car), so save your money for all these replacements/repairs and regular servicing.

 

 

 

 

 

I agree.

 

My previous ride of 6 years which clocked more than 175k km in mileage and earlier car (which was a 1991 Swift) did not do any flush. Engine and performance were fine. Normal servicing was carried out. No flushing was done.

[Meanmachine]

Bro, what car are you driving? your mileage is not high but imo, you still need to change EO at least every 6 months. mine is around 15-16k per year and i do half yearly, just did it today at BM (8000km) and can really feel the diff. they are using castrol edge btw.

you think that changing EO more often is more risky than flushing engine?

 

 

I'm not advocating regular EO change will be better, the least we would like to now is how effective is EF?

 

In d end of d day, if one mileage is over 100K, maybe or perhaps it will be good to consider and that wld be dependent on d type of car and manual instruction guidelines.

[Seabreeze]

I did a hydrogen flush / cleaning recently and after monitoring, it did not seem to give me better FC except smoother throttle response and better cranking, but during overtaking it did not feel as sluggish as before thou. My mileage is only 100k when I did it.

[Phillim]

I did a hydrogen flush / cleaning recently and after monitoring, it did not seem to give me better FC except smoother throttle response and better cranking, but during overtaking it did not feel as sluggish as before thou. My mileage is only 100k when I did it.

I too get a better feel after servicing my car with new EO and other staff required in the schedule.

 

Try saving up for a top overhaul in about 20-40k km more, but if your engine is fine then refrain until there's a necessity, like rattling engine, etc...

 

But at your mileage, soon you might want to look at other things like Timing belt, water-pump, CV joints boots and etc...

 

Engines are made to last longer if we take care of them correctly by servicing the right components on time.

 

Read your maintenance schedule, I'm very sure it does not mention engine flush in there.

 

But to all those who feel that they should do so, by all means please do so if you feel better, its only my opinion and most importantly it's your car afterall.

[Seabreeze]

I too get a better feel after servicing my car with new EO and other staff required in the schedule.

 

Try saving up for a top overhaul in about 20-40k km more, but if your engine is fine then refrain until there's a necessity, like rattling engine, etc...

 

But at your mileage, soon you might want to look at other things like Timing belt, water-pump, CV joints boots and etc...

 

Engines are made to last longer if we take care of them correctly by servicing the right components on time.

 

Read your maintenance schedule, I'm very sure it does not mention engine flush in there.

 

But to all those who feel that they should do so, by all means please do so if you feel better, its only my opinion and most importantly it's your car afterall.

I agree, water pump is a must not forgetting brake pump as well.. Mine using timing chain so no need to replace timing belt, all belting changed on 80k.

[Baal]

Btw, I came across a product at a station called CD2. Its an add on additive to eo and not a flushing product.

 

Claims to contains lots off detergents to clean the internals of the engine. Sludge, sticky rings...etc.

 

Any bro here tried it before or have more knowledge on this product?

 

 

PS : http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/CD-2-Chemical-Oil-detergent/_/N-260b?itemIdentifier=238992_0_0_

 

 

.................

 

Features & Benefits

Designed for cars with over 40,000 miles. Comes in 4, 6 and 8 cylinder formulations. A product that’s right for any 4 cycle automotive engine. Contains Cerflon, a ceramic reinforced P.T.F.E. compound. Cerflon is a thermally stable concentrated micronized friction and wear modifier. It reduces wear and prevents metal to metal contact and surface scuffing. Today’s most recent automotive oil certification requirements have lower anti-wear levels that may not be right for an older or higher mileage car. CD-2 Adrenaline Power Restorer with Cerflon contains up to twice the amount of anti-wear, anti-oxidants, anti-corrosion and detergent additives as compared to regular motor oil. These additives provide extra wear protection, especially in critical valve train and bearing components and engine cleanliness in hard working engines subject to extreme operating conditions. Conditions that can promote the formation of harmful acids, oil thickening and engine sludge which can lead to clog.

• Replenishes detergents and dispersant in your motor oil
• Cleans all internal engine parts
• Prevents rust and corrosion
• Restores pep and power
• Replenishes additives to worn oil

Edited June 5, 2014 by Baal

[Hamburger]

Btw, I came across a product at a station called CD2. Its an add on additive to eo and not a flushing product.

 

Claims to contains lots off detergents to clean the internals of the engine. Sludge, sticky rings...etc.

 

Any bro here tried it before or have more knowledge on this product?

 

 

PS : http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/CD-2-Chemical-Oil-detergent/_/N-260b?itemIdentifier=238992_0_0_

 

 

.................

 

Features & Benefits

Designed for cars with over 40,000 miles. Comes in 4, 6 and 8 cylinder formulations. A product that’s right for any 4 cycle automotive engine. Contains Cerflon, a ceramic reinforced P.T.F.E. compound. Cerflon is a thermally stable concentrated micronized friction and wear modifier. It reduces wear and prevents metal to metal contact and surface scuffing. Today’s most recent automotive oil certification requirements have lower anti-wear levels that may not be right for an older or higher mileage car. CD-2 Adrenaline Power Restorer with Cerflon contains up to twice the amount of anti-wear, anti-oxidants, anti-corrosion and detergent additives as compared to regular motor oil. These additives provide extra wear protection, especially in critical valve train and bearing components and engine cleanliness in hard working engines subject to extreme operating conditions. Conditions that can promote the formation of harmful acids, oil thickening and engine sludge which can lead to clog.

• Replenishes detergents and dispersant in your motor oil
• Cleans all internal engine parts
• Prevents rust and corrosion
• Restores pep and power
• Replenishes additives to worn oil

 

 

 

[Tohto]

 

 

 

Your snake is very BIG