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Need soundproofing advices


Usamomo
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Thanks Zack123 and Fuelsaver.

 

Buy a quieter car cost at least S$20K more. A brand new Toyota Camry cost $20K more, even a Nissan Teana is $15K more. I think spend the $2K to soundproofing is more economical.

 

The whole car can be soundproofed. It is how much you wanna spend doing it. I previously soundproofed a Lancer GLX, which by anyone's standard is a noisy ass car. Mostly because I had ICE in it, but the difference was huge. Depends on how much you value quietness.

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Neutral Newbie

Got the tar-like sound proofing 3 layers at e-revmotorsports. 4 wheel arcs, undercarriage and bonnet. Test it out two trips on CTE.

Some improvement but not obvious. High frequency road noise reduce is very obvious, low frequency rolling tyres on rough road reduce slightly.

Solution acceptable.

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thank you all for the advices, do keep them coming.

i have actually tried to stick the 3M door seal one more layer.

Initially the door need to slam harder to close which is good and the sound from those bikes and buses really cut down by alot.

But over time the door seal lose it's firmness, the sounds came back.

I am currently on road tyres, kumho ku31.

change to Pirelli P7.. Tyre noise makes a lot of difference. Even new types vs old also lots of difference. I was on hankook S1evo for 3 yrs 40k mileage.. Change to a Pirelli Pzero already significant noise reduction as radio can be on volume 8 instead of 12-14. Almost same roads travel. Pirelli P7 is comfort touring so better than Pzero interms of noise, but no size for my car.

Anyone have suggestions and precautions to share on soundproofing on road and engine noise?

engine noise mainly from belts and engine mount.. Change new belts, and new engine mounts, also change new gearbox oil sure will help.

Not tryin to b funny, but I'd think it b better to buy a quieter ride, more insulated against nvh.

kinda agree with u bro.. No matter how much insulation, the glass that part still will transmit. I compare the thin glass on my puny car vs friends BMW and Lexus.. Think it's 2mm+ thick vs 4mm++ thickness..
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change to Pirelli P7.. Tyre noise makes a lot of difference. Even new types vs old also lots of difference. I was on hankook S1evo for 3 yrs 40k mileage.. Change to a Pirelli Pzero already significant noise reduction as radio can be on volume 8 instead of 12-14. Almost same roads travel. Pirelli P7 is comfort touring so better than Pzero interms of noise, but no size for my car.

engine noise mainly from belts and engine mount.. Change new belts, and new engine mounts, also change new gearbox oil sure will help.

kinda agree with u bro.. No matter how much insulation, the glass that part still will transmit. I compare the thin glass on my puny car vs friends BMW and Lexus.. Think it's 2mm+ thick vs 4mm++ thickness..

Tried n tested liao, last time do double layer all 4 drs still rd noise. Then some ppl said must do wheel arc, undercarriage, walau, no end. In the end nvr proceed further liao.

Thanks Zack123 and Fuelsaver.

 

Buy a quieter car cost at least S$20K more. A brand new Toyota Camry cost $20K more, even a Nissan Teana is $15K more. I think spend the $2K to soundproofing is more economical.

No prob, if u decided to go ahead, let us know wat u done n wat improvement. Better still, have noise meter to measure.
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Neutral Newbie

After 2 days of test drives, up down CTE, BKE and TPE. Road noise did reduce noticeable. I don't think more layers will help further. Will wait for tyre to wear out and changed to quiet tyre.

As long as we set the expectation right, improvement has to stop somewhere.

I don't care about ICE. I normally listen to FM radio. But vol up the noisy FM is annoying, that is what I did wheel arcs and undercarriage sound proofing to lower high freq noise, just to avoid FM noise.

Low freq rolling need thick material.

 

Sound clad coating is only 800 micron. Too thin to even mask off mid low freq around 1KHz.

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Road noise not only transmit though wheel arch, also from the vibration through connecting parts from the suspensions like shock absorber. I did full SP for my car with one of the best material in the market, when the car is not in motion, dead silent like a SP room, but once it's moving, the sound still intrude no matter what.

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Thanks Zack123 and Fuelsaver.

 

Buy a quieter car cost at least S$20K more. A brand new Toyota Camry cost $20K more, even a Nissan Teana is $15K more. I think spend the $2K to soundproofing is more economical.

 

The only place u cannot sound proof is your windscreen and door wind glass.

 

the thickness of the glass from a B&B car is so much thinner than a luxury.

The interior panels of a B&B car is also poor in quality, resulting to rattling..so your ICE will sound way off anyway.

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Just to share my personal experiment: Pasting rubber seal all four doors cut down the noise level too. It is pasted on the door and the body part as well...A great amount of noise we hear, either from the road, tyre or car body travels through the gap between door and car body. ;)

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Just to share my personal experiment: Pasting rubber seal all four doors cut down the noise level too. It is pasted on the door and the body part as well...A great amount of noise we hear, either from the road, tyre or car body travels through the gap between door and car body. ;)

Wanted to go for cost effective sound-proofing for my wifey CRV the past 3yrs. Can share where to get this rubber done or you DIY? Certainly hope these are quality rubbers which will not deteriorate over time. Pls pm me contact. Thks

Edited by Amazon777
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Janling,

 

I went to revmotor sports. Look for Edward. He is the salesman.

I have done 4 wheel arc, undercarriage and bonnet, total $640 (paid NETS no surcharge, paid VISA 3%).

 

http://www.e-revmotorsports.com.sg/

 

I tested few brand new CrossOver and SUV previsously. Benerally CrossOver, MPV and SUV are higher from ground, and have large tyre with thick wall.

I think for such vehicles' noise mainly from rear-boot region rather than from the ground. The wheel arc type of coating might not be as effective as sound proof the rear wheel arc, boot and boot-door.

I will suggest you drive across the MCE and listen to the noise.

 

In my case, when I drove along MCE with some traffic so that I can drive at around 90km/h, my car is as good as in sound proofed room. Almost no road noise. When I stop at traffic junction with a bus or lorry beside my car, I will wind down the windows to check on how much noise the bus/lorry generated and how much I heard with the window close. From there, I concluded my car noise mainly from under the car rather than from side of the car.

 

Hope this info helps.

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Just to share my personal experiment: Pasting rubber seal all four doors cut down the noise level too. It is pasted on the door and the body part as well...A great amount of noise we hear, either from the road, tyre or car body travels through the gap between door and car body. ;)

Then I must did the wrong things all along..

 

I tried the bonnet, firewall, wheel fender with those soundproof material etc..

Even undercoat the whole car beneath...

 

Like Nothing improve.. instead, making the car heavier..

 

Well, guess sound is too sophisticated for me

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Try noise stop system

 

 

Then I must did the wrong things all along..

 

I tried the bonnet, firewall, wheel fender with those soundproof material etc..

Even undercoat the whole car beneath...

 

Like Nothing improve.. instead, making the car heavier..

 

Well, guess sound is too sophisticated for me

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As long as you set your expectation right, I am not saying dropping your expectation, you could save cost in sound proofing.

Ask yourself some of these questions:

Are you expecting quality audio from ICE while car is moving, or stationary? (eg. I want to enjoy ICE in the car park while waiting for someone)

Are you expecting normal speech loudness while car is moving? (eg. I expect normal speech loudness while driving to take phone call)/

Is the noise too annoying that distracted your driving? (eg. I want to hear news from radio clearly at <25% of the max radio volume).

 

For example:

For poor ICE, the louder you blast your amp, the worst the audio is. Hence, sound proofing from external noise won't help to improve audio quality. It just enable you tuned the volume low. In this case, you need sound damping inside the car to reduce the poor audio noise from bouncing/reflecting within the car.

For this situation, I will rather spend money on better ICE.

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Neutral Newbie

If anyone is considering soundproofing and reading this thread.... 

 

Just been to Silent Auto recently for front and back wheel arch+fender soundproofing (1st time doing soundproofing for my car).  Strongly NOT recommending this workshop for soundproofing.  Materials used are ok but workmanship was very poor - they did not paste entire wheel arch with soundproofing material - said this part and that part cannot be pasted - I guess less than 50% of wheel arch and fender had the soundproofing material.  Only achieved about 30% road noise reduction.  Felt like .....  [smash]

 

What is the difference between wheel arch and fender soundproofing anyway???  I am still confused.

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If anyone is considering soundproofing and reading this thread.... 

 

Just been to Silent Auto recently for front and back wheel arch+fender soundproofing (1st time doing soundproofing for my car).  Strongly NOT recommending this workshop for soundproofing.  Materials used are ok but workmanship was very poor - they did not paste entire wheel arch with soundproofing material - said this part and that part cannot be pasted - I guess less than 50% of wheel arch and fender had the soundproofing material.  Only achieved about 30% road noise reduction.  Felt like .....  [smash]

 

What is the difference between wheel arch and fender soundproofing anyway???  I am still confused.

 

hi

 

can share your cost? i cant seem to find silent auto. where is it?

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