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therock
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Think dats 2 types of PS in merk,probably more.

Mine's gotta PD- to registered a number,the last number I see is 6 before overdrive.

Actually my queries on 9g is to Check weather u guys 're comfortable playing with the PS.

I only learn the correct way when I change my steering wheel to the flat bottom,the shop guy's show the way.

Previously when I ask,everybody tells me to keep pressing +

Little than I realised dey might not noes also.

Apologise ,I might come on a bit too strong.

I don’t understand bro..
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How to use Paddle Shift (for benefit of rest of mercedes owners):

 

- Left paddle: single tap to down shift 1 gear. double taps to downshift 2 gears.

The gear indicator will change from D to M (manual) and the current gear number will be shown. It stay in this mode till it times out if no further input to manually up or downshift.

 

- Right paddle: single tap to up shift 1 gear. double taps to upshift 2 gears and so on. The gear indicator will change from D to M (manual) and the current gear number will be shown. It stay in this mode till it times out if no further input to manually up or downshift.

 

*Tip:  tap and hold the right paddle to revert to full auto mode (D) at any point during the (M) mode. 

I use this neat feature quite often.

 

Eg. when approaching a tight curve with no traffic around, I will use the left paddle shift to downshift 1-2 gears such that the tachometer hovers around 3K RPM ( My power band drops off after 4K RPM), this will engine brake the car and allow me to go round the curve without braking and once pass the apex, i will step in on my accelerator to power out of the curve. While stepping in on the accelerator, I will press and hold the right paddle to hand over the gears control to the 9G-tronic, that way as the car accelerate from the curve, the AT can automatically up shift optimally without me having to bother when to upshift.

 

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Bro, think there is an error in your calculation

 

You forgot to minus 20k from 235+76k

 

=291/13.5 

 

= 21.5k dep/year

 

so its 20k depr/year old car vs 21.5k depr/year new car over 10 years, thats about 1.5k more a year or $125 a month more, same as newbie calculation above

 

bro Heman has a great deal,

 

drives a brand new car for $125 more a month, with new warranty and service vouchers and other freebies    [thumbsup]

 

 

http://www.mycarforum.com/topic/2708691-mercedes-c-class-2018/page-4?do=findComment&comment=6503894

 

I will use what I've posted previously to calculate, see if everyone agrees: 

 

Assuming paper value of both cars is the same = 20k

Your current car annual dep is 220k - 20k/10  = 20k dep/yr 

New car depreciation is = 21.5k dep/yr, therefore new car cost = 21.5 * 10 + 20k = 235k

 

Your depreciation for that 3.5yrs after trade in = 220k - 144k   = 76k

 

Total dep for your new car over 10yrs + Dep of old car over 3.5yrs = (235k + 76k)/ 13.5 = 23k dep/yr

 

So:

20k dep/yr if you drive for 10yrs in your current car

VS

23k dep/yr if you trade in your car ​+ the new car price is 235k

 

To me all the service credits shouldn't be computed as part of the "bleeding" cost cause that's one could argue that you "extended" your loans again, since you got them the first time you bought ur current car. I felt that it is the sales tactic to convince you that its worth it.

 

Using this one can calculate what is the break even point to switch, to "bleed" less compare to current car.

 

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How to use Paddle Shift (for benefit of rest of mercedes owners):

 

- Left paddle: single tap to down shift 1 gear. double taps to downshift 2 gears.

 

 

Ok this is very Cheem mathematics  ............. Can you please explain how this is possible  !  :omg:

 

:D

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How to use Paddle Shift (for benefit of rest of mercedes owners):

 

- Left paddle: single tap to down shift 1 gear. double taps to downshift 2 gears.

The gear indicator will change from D to M (manual) and the current gear number will be shown. It stay in this mode till it times out if no further input to manually up or downshift.

 

- Right paddle: single tap to up shift 1 gear. double taps to upshift 2 gears and so on. The gear indicator will change from D to M (manual) and the current gear number will be shown. It stay in this mode till it times out if no further input to manually up or downshift.

 

*Tip: tap and hold the right paddle to revert to full auto mode (D) at any point during the (M) mode.

I use this neat feature quite often.

 

Eg. when approaching a tight curve with no traffic around, I will use the left paddle shift to downshift 1-2 gears such that the tachometer hovers around 3K RPM ( My power band drops off after 4K RPM), this will engine brake the car and allow me to go round the curve without braking and once pass the apex, i will step in on my accelerator to power out of the curve. While stepping in on the accelerator, I will press and hold the right paddle to hand over the gears control to the 9G-tronic, that way as the car accelerate from the curve, the AT can automatically up shift optimally without me having to bother when to upshift.

Thank u for sharing. Was wondering how to make full use of the paddle shift
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http://www.mycarforum.com/topic/2708691-mercedes-c-class-2018/page-4?do=findComment&comment=6503894

 

I will use what I've posted previously to calculate, see if everyone agrees:

 

Assuming paper value of both cars is the same = 20k

Your current car annual dep is 220k - 20k/10 = 20k dep/yr

New car depreciation is = 21.5k dep/yr, therefore new car cost = 21.5 * 10 + 20k = 235k

 

Your depreciation for that 3.5yrs after trade in = 220k - 144k = 76k

 

Total dep for your new car over 10yrs + Dep of old car over 3.5yrs = (235k + 76k)/ 13.5 = 23k dep/yr

 

So:

20k dep/yr if you drive for 10yrs in your current car

VS

23k dep/yr if you trade in your car â+ the new car price is 235k

 

To me all the service credits shouldn't be computed as part of the "bleeding" cost cause that's one could argue that you "extended" your loans again, since you got them the first time you bought ur current car. I felt that it is the sales tactic to convince you that its worth it.

 

Using this one can calculate what is the break even point to switch, to "bleed" less compare to current car.

All else being constant, depreciation per year should theoretically be lower with the drop in COE prices from, in this case, $75k to $32k, which should translate into saving of $4.3k a year, $360 a month and $9 a day.

 

But those keen to change car will argue that if COE is still at $75k, the depreciation per year would have been much higher, perhaps close to $25k per year.

 

So it is really about how itch is your backside and how deep are your pocket.

Edited by Voodooman
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All else being constant, depreciation per year should theoretically be lower with the drop in COE prices from, in this case, $75k to $32k, which should translate into saving of $4.3k a year, $360 a month and $9 a day.

 

But those keen to change car will argue that if COE is still at $75k, the depreciation per year would have been much higher, perhaps close to $25k per year.

 

So it is really about how itch is your backside and how deep are your pocket.

Yes . Do it at your comfort level . Another reason why I enter now is because you can see alot of new models coming up with BMW Lexus and Merc. These belongs to cat b . I foresee cat b will up end year with cat A down . I maybe wrong Edited by Heman75
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Thanks for the tip. Have not used it becos donât know how.

Dats exactly the problem.

At least u come true,most ppl Yaya only ,u ask them,dey will say,juzz flip ++ only,veri easy.

 

Can u use yr own words ?

Its veri easy to copy & paste

Right paddle: single tap to up shift 1 gear. double taps to upshift 2 gears and so on. The gear indicator will change from D to M (manual) and the current gear number will be shown. It stay in this mode till it times out if no further input to manually up or downshift.

 

My take on dis PD thingy is basically for overtaking or downshift a gear or two earlier than the automatic can compute.

To activate the PD,first u have to press - ,am sure u guys ve try & it dun work ,u can't juzz press + to start the PD.

Also learn a few things from vratenza dat u press+and hold it 'll reach the OD faster.

Anwae u need to reach OD than u can b back to auto.

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To be frank, it takes alot of effort to try to understand what you are trying to express. Maybe english is not a language you are comfortable in.

 

The sentence you cut and paste, and which I highlighted in bold, ARE MY OWN WORDS. Thanks for insinuating I am qualified to write an instruction manual.

 

Let me clarify a few of your misinformation.

 

1. There is no practical situation on the road to need to go one gear higher manually from full auto (D). So why would anyone want to press the + paddle shift to activate the (M) mode? Just down gear immediately already.

 

Edit: I have never even attempted to upshift from (D) mode, so cannot say for sure if (M) can be activate. Will try this evening and update here later.

 

2. Pressing and holding the + is to change from (M) to (D) mode. Nothing to do with OD (which I assume you meant over drive gear) which is the final gear in the transmission ie. 9th gear in 9Gtronic and 7th Gear in 7G-tronic. So you don't need to reach OD before you can return to (D) -full auto mode.

 

 

Dats exactly the problem.
At least u come true,most ppl Yaya only ,u ask them,dey will say,juzz flip ++ only,veri easy.

Can u use yr own words ?
Its veri easy to copy & paste
Right paddle: single tap to up shift 1 gear. double taps to upshift 2 gears and so on. The gear indicator will change from D to M (manual) and the current gear number will be shown. It stay in this mode till it times out if no further input to manually up or downshift.

My take on dis PD thingy is basically for overtaking or downshift a gear or two earlier than the automatic can compute.
To activate the PD,first u have to press - ,am sure u guys ve try & it dun work ,u can't juzz press + to start the PD.
Also learn a few things from vratenza dat u press+and hold it 'll reach the OD faster.
Anwae u need to reach OD than u can b back to auto.

 

Edited by Vratenza
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All else being constant, depreciation per year should theoretically be lower with the drop in COE prices from, in this case, $75k to $32k, which should translate into saving of $4.3k a year, $360 a month and $9 a day.

 

But those keen to change car will argue that if COE is still at $75k, the depreciation per year would have been much higher, perhaps close to $25k per year.

 

So it is really about how itch is your backside and how deep are your pocket.

When COE dropped 40k the price dropped 20k.

 

Mystery of the missing 20k?

 

1.VES - for example car went from 20k discount to neutral band

2. AD profit margin - your AD just makan 20k more which brings me to point 3

3. Overtrade - Ta Dah....... that’s why they can offer 20-30k more

 

 

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When COE dropped 40k the price dropped 20k.

 

Mystery of the missing 20k?

 

1.VES - for example car went from 20k discount to neutral band

2. AD profit margin - your AD just makan 20k more which brings me to point 3

3. Overtrade - Ta Dah....... that’s why they can offer 20-30k more

 

 

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When COE dropped 40k the price dropped 20k.

 

Mystery of the missing 20k?

 

1.VES - for example car went from 20k discount to neutral band

2. AD profit margin - your AD just makan 20k more which brings me to point 3

3. Overtrade - Ta Dah....... that’s why they can offer 20-30k more

 

 

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Bro, think there is an error in your calculation

 

You forgot to minus 20k from 235+76k

 

=291/13.5 

 

= 21.5k dep/year

 

so its 20k depr/year old car vs 21.5k depr/year new car over 10 years, thats about 1.5k more a year or $125 a month more, same as newbie calculation above

 

bro Heman has a great deal,

 

drives a brand new car for $125 more a month, with new warranty and service vouchers and other freebies    [thumbsup]

 

Bro thanks for pointing out!  [thumbsup]

 

Not a bad deal.. for the fresh leather smell!  [;)]

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Is it urban legend that if you go to  PML and tell them that you are trading in your w205 for the G30 and at the same time considering the E class.......will they go all out to give you a deal you cannot refuse? :D

 

 

When COE dropped 40k the price dropped 20k.

Mystery of the missing 20k?

1.VES - for example car went from 20k discount to neutral band
2. AD profit margin - your AD just makan 20k more which brings me to point 3
3. Overtrade - Ta Dah....... that’s why they can offer 20-30k more

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same as red wine.. as long as you like it.. it will be a good wine. so as long as you are comfortable will be good enough .. i still stick by my way of calculation as i only consider the saving or excess based what is left on my ride.

as for the service credit is a bonus. if i continue my ride i would have to spend money on servicing which will be saved with new car change. it may not amount to 6k outside but in cnc sure will hit.

as for the loan portion , you extended the loan again but you also extend the life so it the same.

for car it is for sure you lose money one. the only thing is how much. some ppl claim no change then no need to take out cash but have you thought by the 7th or 10th yr you change you also need to fork out cash.. it is a matter of now or later. the key should be minimized losses to ones acceptable value and enjoy the new car. by the 5th yr or so onwards, it is going to worth only paper value.

I think the joy and satisfaction of driving a newer is intangible and not reflected in the calculation process.
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Let's do the jump.

 

Nowadays it is no longer UDM. Just Sheer Driving Pleasure.

Think the G30 is only slightly better drive than the E........... must think first

the wide cockpit is nice ... jump ...

Why you never jump ah?

 

 

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