Battery for Honda Vezel

[Kb27]

Known as Q85,also used in my Mazda 6,now costed $195.00.

 

 

Mazda use Q85

Vezel use N55L

[Kb27]

If that is the case I am very happy.  Finally found a way to disable the expensive useless irritating feature/bug.

 

Do you all Vezel owners experience the same thing?  That is, the auto-stop does not come on after about 2.5 years?

 

What I heard is that many cars with stop/start feature, it will be disabled when the battery is weak.

That is due to the main starting battery.

Not only is this limited to Vezel, but other cars as well.

[King_Kong]

What I heard is that many cars with stop/start feature, it will be disabled when the battery is weak.

That is due to the main starting battery.

Not only is this limited to Vezel, but other cars as well.

 

Which battery?  Main battery?  Or that special device in the trunk?

[Kb27]

Which battery?  Main battery?  Or that special device in the trunk?

 

I believe it's the main battery that's weak. The "special device" may be just a small battery (like Mercedes Auxiliary battery) to keep electronics alive, but not strong enough to start engine.

 

Think of auto-stop not working as a wake up call to change your starting battery.

If you continue to ignore it, then next time, the car may not start at all.

[ER-3682]

Hi, do you use the start-stop function?

18mths battery life span is short.

Yes i used.

[w7_lee]

If that is the case I am very happy.  Finally found a way to disable the expensive useless irritating feature/bug.

 

Do you all Vezel owners experience the same thing?  That is, the auto-stop does not come on after about 2.5 years?

 

I have no idea if this feature is still working in my car. When they had the recall, I started disabling it every time when I start the vehicle.  The recalled part had been replaced but it is now a muscle memory thing for me that I am still disabling it without thinking.  I also do not like this feature, so never bother to break this habit.

 

While waiting for the recall part to be replaced, I did tried disconnecting the cable to the boot battery (capacitors). The car will start and drive around just fine (for the 2 days that I tested). No need to disable the start-stop and it never cuts in. The only downside is that there is an icon on the speedo to show a problem. 

Which battery?  Main battery?  Or that special device in the trunk?

 

Why not get a multimeter and measure your main battery voltage when the car is cold and when idling.

 

I got the car in Dec 2015, I am still using the original battery. Below are my measurements for your reference.

May 2016: 12.4v engine cold, 14.2v engine idling

May 2017: 12.2v engine cold, 14.3v engine idling

 

Edited December 19, 2017 by w7_lee

[Kb27]

 

Why not get a multimeter and measure your main battery voltage when the car is cold and when idling.

 

I got the car in Dec 2015, I am still using the original battery. Below are my measurements for your reference.

May 2016: 12.4v engine cold, 14.2v engine idling

May 2017: 12.2v engine cold, 14.3v engine idling

 

Measuring voltage on a battery is just measuring the state of charge (SOC).

It's actually best measured as OCV (open circuit voltage) meaning you disconnect one of the terminal, so that the battery is open circuit.

But since, it's troublesome, most people just measured the battery voltage "in-circuit"

 

A battery with close to 100% SOC is about 12.6~ 12.7V, this number is also temperature dependant.

 

When you're measuring with the engine running, you are just measuring the charging voltage from the alternator. This is not the battery voltage. A good value is a range between 13.3V to 15.5V. The higher the voltage, the faster it will charge the battery and the hotter the battery will get. It's like a "fast charge". But remember, battery doesn't like heat. It's life is shortened by heat.

 

However, measuring battery SOC does not mean much, other then it's charged or not.

 

You should have a fully-charged battery tested for its CCA.

This will give a definitive answer whether the battery is still fit for use.

 

Example, a Vezel battery (when new) normally has about 350~450 CCA depending on the battery type.

If you measure that battery and you get anything less than 200, the battery is no good already and it needs to be changed.

There are many types of CCA tester available, ranging from cheap $80 to well over $1000

The more accurate ones cost somewhere around $500.

[King_Kong]

I called the battery man.  His meter gives CCA in percentage.  My old battery showed 80%.  What does CCA stand for?  Anyway, I had the battery changed and now the irritating auto-stop is back on again.

 

I found out the following that I was cheated by the dealer who sold me the car. The original EFB battery has been swapped out with a normal battery.

Edited December 20, 2017 by King_Kong

[Kb27]

I called the battery man.  His meter gives CCA in percentage.  My old battery showed 80%.  What does CCA stand for?  Anyway, I had the battery changed and now the irritating auto-stop is back on again.

 

I found out the following that I was cheated by the dealer who sold me the car. The original EFB battery has been swapped out with a normal battery.

 

CCA stands for cold cranking ampere.

 

To test CCA under SAE J537, the battery is cooled to –18°C (0°F) and discharged for 30 seconds at the rated CCA. A battery marked 600 CCA would be discharged at 600A for 30 seconds at –18°C (0°F). During discharge, the voltage cannot drop below 7.2 volts. If it does, the battery fails and the CCA test must be repeated to find the true CCA value.

[minyoro]

                    

 

 

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Vezel with stop/start feature can use EFB (enhanced flooded cell) battery