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Basetubes ...


Yongwd
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ICE gurus, care to enlighten me of the following ... dun quite understand

 

1. Active and Passive Basetubes (BT), what are they?

2. Objective and Subjective bass, how they sound?

3. Wat are the recommended size of BT for Sedans and Hatch?

4. Wat are the recommended Brands? Bazooka, Pyle ... ??

5. Anything else I need to beware b4 purchasing?

6. Wat r the prices I should be looking at ??

7. Any good recommendations? [cool]

8. To fix a BT or a Subwoofer? Wat is FREE-AIR?

 

Wa lao eh, cheem stuffs... Pardon my ignorance ... I know too many questions. [:p]

 

I have a normal stereo system and the HU has a pair of subout connector. I was thinking maybe just add a BT for some extra kick since I find the current setup is quite okie but lack of the bass oumph!!! [:p]

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Neutral Newbie

Me no ICE guru either, but lemme see what I can do to help.....

 

1. Active and Passive Basetubes (BT), what are they?

Active bass tubes come with built-in amps whilst passive ones need external amplifiers to drive them.

 

2. Objective and Subjective bass, how they sound?

Wow dude....this one is REALLY cheem ler...1st time i'm hearing of Objective and Subjective bass. Anywayz, lemme make an (un)educated guess: Objective bass, I would assume, is the ACTUAL bass notes reproduced by musical instruments. Subjective bass is what you would be hearing in the environment of your ICE setup, in this case, your car, and is affected by various factors such as the basstube or subwoofer, amplifier, signal cables, crossover, acoustic properties of your car, tuning, etc, and most importantly your ears. Therefore your subjective bass may not match the objective bass. Meaning the note produced by the instrument if you were sitting directly in front of it, and the note produced by your basstube or subwoofer may vary due to the above factors. I may be wrong, please dun flame me here...... [;)]

 

3. Wat are the recommended size of BT for Sedans and Hatch?

Boot space is normally the biggest determinant of size of bass tubes...hee hee!! There's no escaping this truth. For basstubes, try not to go below 10". However, if bootspace is not of concern, I would suggest you go for boxed-up subwoofers.

 

4. Wat are the recommended Brands? Bazooka, Pyle ... ??

Bazooka, Pioneer, GS Designs.....they should work well for you. Go for active basstubes if you do not wanna buy a separate amp to drive the basstube.

 

5. Anything else I need to beware b4 purchasing?

What are you hoping to achieve in terms of bass?? Cuz basstubes and free-aired and boxed-up subwoofers sound different.

 

6. Wat r the prices I should be looking at ??

Difficult to say as I am not in touch with current prices.

 

7. Any good recommendations?

Personal recommendations:

(i)Bazooka for basstubes

(ii)Infinity Perfect 12's and Cerwin Vega subs for boxed applications.

(iii)Kicker Freeair for Freeaired subs.

 

8. To fix a BT or a Subwoofer? Wat is FREE-AIR?

Refer to Q.3 and Q.5. Free-aired subs are subwoofers mounted in your boot without a box. They save space in situations where bootspace is a constraint, but are not as punchy and controlled as boxed-up subwoofers. Boxed subs are given a fixed volume of air to move which is what makes them so punchy and controlled, as compared to free-aired subs which are trying to move the volume of air in your boot.

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Woo, thanks mike! Hmmm. Maybe I will go for a 10" active Bazooka tube... I will hijack one from my fren's car and see how it sound before I commit anything. [laugh]

 

Is there any specific placement of the BT in the car boot? I saw many local installers putting horizontal but saw overseas installers doing the opposite.

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Neutral Newbie

No problemo! [cool]

 

The general trend is to place the tube horizontally across the floor of the boot, running parallel to the rear seatback. No idea whether different placement strategies will yield different sounds or not, but you can try.......hee hee!! [;)]

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Neutral Newbie

Wah Barakian, you the champ!

 

May I knw how much to pay for a 10" Bazooka? Are there places/shops that do offer 2nd hand ones? (dont want to buy thro internet classifieds - like to see what I buy)

 

Subs are one component of the ICE that we can safely buy 2nd hand... agreed?

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Neutral Newbie

Wah lieueh, I where got champ? Aiyah, now feel veddy paiseh liaoz ler... [blush]

 

Unfortunately I am unable to advise you on prices...mebbe some of the other brudders here can. As for buying a 2nd hand Bazooka, you can try installers or you can try the ICE forum in Delphi.....I believe the sellers in there will be willing to let you see 1st before buying.

 

Again, as far as subs are concerned, you will not know how the previous owner treated his subs, so buying 2nd hand is NOT a failsafe bet. For all you know, the previous owner could have been underpowering his subs and blasting, and his subs would have been bottoming out like nobody's business thereby compromising its reliablity or at worst even damaging the sub.....hope this helps! [:)]

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Neutral Newbie

Tks Barakian for your enlightenment on the 2nd hand pitfalls of the sub.. I always thought that a sub need considerable amt of banging and wacking for it to run in fully. Tks again!

 

[cool]

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Neutral Newbie

No problemo! Whacking the sub is perfectly fine as long as you have enough juice and the sub doesn't bottom out and distort, cuz thatz when problems start to arise. [cool]

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I happened to meet an old friend few days back. He is a ICE guy, so I ask him to recommend a system for budget $2K. He told me off and said save your money, its not going to be much better than your std set . I was a little offended initially.

 

But when I recalled those days when I change component speakers and amps, after spending $1K +, you still can't get the sound you wanted like good soft bass, clear vocals and crispy high end. Much of the budget actually went into the labour cost of installation.

 

Std speakers can be driven by the small internal amp and produce good sound especially if you got good head set like Sony, Alpine or Nakamichi. Once you change to big speakers or speakers that are designed to take high power, they need very high wattage amps to drive and the cost will be up the roof.

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Neutral Newbie

hi barakian. how are you ?

 

check out the bazooka website .... seems like parallel is not the most ideal as standing wave will occur and will cancel out the amplitude. the resident advisor suggest at the rearmost of the boot and angled. not the most convenient but what the heck you can't have the cake and eat it :)

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Neutral Newbie

agreed. some of the luxury cars use small amp to aid the hu ... no heart thumping bass but warm and rich sound all around for most people. helped by the better sound proofing also.

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