Amateur ICE setting

[Ronnchee]

Hi all Shi Fu

 

Need helps.

 

My audio setting as follow.

 

1. Headunit - Alpine 9887

2. Front Speaker - DB Drive Component 680, 2 ways, 50 watts RMS

3. Rear Speaker - OZ Audio Coaxial

4. 4 channel Amplifier - Rockford P450.4, 450watts, connected to 2x10in sub

5. 4 channel Amplifier - Pyle Dryver PLAD 412, 2000watts, connected to front and rear speakers.

6. Rear Tweeter - MTX, additional installed

7. Subwoofers - 2x10in Rockford P1S410, 150watts

8. Capacitor - Kole Audio 1.6 Farad

 

I used to play Techno musis when my headunit was stock (clarion). Now I switched to SQ.

 

Understand from Uncle Bob my current setting is more passive, and is "in a mess".

 

What should I get rid from the above in order to improve the quality of the "enjoyment" ?

 

Should I go for sound proofing first or change the front speaker, as my installer said the mid bass "cannot catch up" ?

 

Pls, pls, contribute your ideas.

[Dunno]

What car are you driving? If not a big car, then don't need the rear speakers. Use your 4ch amp to drive the front active. Not sure what your installer meant by midbass cannot catch up. Maybe it's passive and the tweeters sound faster than the midbass? But if you go active, then will not have this problem since you can TA your speakers individually.

[Harveynorman]

If you would like to re-do your ICE, I would suggest you do it once and right.

 

Thinks you should keep...

1. Headunit - Alpine 9887

4. 4 channel Amplifier - Rockford P450.4, 450watts

7. Subwoofers - 2x10in Rockford P1S410, 150watts

8. Capacitor - Kole Audio 1.6 Farad

 

Things you can keep for the time being before subjecting yourself to potential posioning.

2. Front Speaker - DB Drive Component 680, 2 ways, 50 watts RMS

5. 4 channel Amplifier - Pyle Dryver PLAD 412, 2000watts

 

Forget abt the rear spkrs and go full 2-way active with setup based on your current equipment.

 

If you are intending to keep your ride for awhile, you may want to consider these factors:

 

Power cables

at least 4awg from Alt - Batt - Cap - Dis Block - Amps

 

Interconnects and spkr cables

At least 16awg for tweeters and 14awg for Mids

 

Additional items:

More Soundproofing

Pods or a-pillar

exposed Mid bass at door panel

 

Try to sell of one of your Rockford P1S410 as your HU does not output a stereo sub signal.

[Ronnchee]

Hello Dunno

 

Uncle mentioned your name before.

 

I am driving Mazda 3.

 

My installer actually recommended Kicker front speaker, which I dont think is a good idea, as Kicker is "famous" for "boom boom boom" music.

 

Though my installer claimed he had done the time alignment, somehow, I still dont feel comfortable.

 

If I forgo rear speaker, will it improve the SQ ?

[Ronnchee]

My car is less than 2 years, and intend to drive for another 3 years or so.

 

What is full 2 way active ??

 

By the way, will this item help http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8090_A...C8+-WHITE-.html, aftermarket Crossover.

 

I have no idea how is my power cable currently being run ?? Will look into it.

 

Quote "expose mid bass at door panel" mean what ??

Edited July 20, 2008 by Ronnchee

[Harveynorman]

What is full 2 way active ??

 

Do and search and read abt it. It is not explanable in a few sentences.

 

http://www.mycarforum.com/forum/Aftermarke...Setup_P1003154/

 

The LC8 is not neccessary as your HU has active crossover features aready. Provided you start ditching your rear spkrs and intend to go active on your fronts.

 

Quote "expose mid bass at door panel" mean what ??

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13302209@N07/...157603291112689

 

Bro Audiolab paisei borrow your Pic for awhile....

[Bobcatsysop]

Hi Ronn,

You finally managed to get the model and specs of your ICE setup. That's good. However, some of the power ratings you got is not the true output. From what I can see, your current setup with front, rear and 2xrear subs configuration is more for boom boom type. To reconfigure to SQ, needs a little revamp.

I had checked those actual specs out here is what I got:

 

Take note of the actual specs of your 4-ch amps.

Pyle Dryver PLAD 412 4-ch Amp: 100w x 4 @ 4ohms RMS

4 x 100W RMS @ 4 Ohms

4 x 250W MAX @ 4 Ohms

2 x 400W MAX @ 4 Ohms Bridged

4 x 150W RMS @ 2 Ohms

Bridgeable at 4 Ohms

2 Ohm Stereo Stable

Tri-Mode Capable

THD: <0.04%.

S/N Ratio: >90dB

Input Sensitivity : 100mV ~4V

Channel Separation : >65dB

Freq. Response : 10Hz ~ 30KHz

Full specs here: http://www.pyleaudio.com/itemdetail.asp?br...s&model=PLAD412

 

Rockford Fosgate 4-ch Amp P450.4: 60w x 4 @ 4ohms RMS

Rated Power continuous power:

60W x 4 @ 4-Ohms RMS

110W x 4 @ 2-Ohms RMS

225W x 2 @ 4-Ohms bridged RMS

Full specs here: http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=2&series_id=6&family_id=21&item_id=106471&locale=en_US&p_status=

://http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/prod..._US&p_status=

://http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/prod..._US&p_status=

://http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/prod..._US&p_status=

Currently you have:

Front stage and rear:

4 channel Amplifier - Pyle Dryver PLAD 412, Pyle Dryver PLAD 412 4-ch Amp: 100w x 4 @ 4ohms RMS connected to front and rear speakers.

Front Speaker - DB Drive Component 680, 2 ways, 50 watts RMS

Rear Speaker - OZ Audio Coaxial

Rear Tweeter - MTX, additional installed

My Recommendation:

Keep your 4-ch Amp Pyle Dryver PLAD 412: 100w x 4 @ 4ohms RMS

Sell away both your front and rear speakers and top up with upgrade to get a better front components using your Pyle to drive your new front components 2-way active.

What to upgrade to?.. depends on your liking. Suggest you come to our meetups a little more often and hear for yourself what kind of speakers you like while playing your favourite CD. That's most important. Your favourite CD.

 

Sub: 4 channel Amplifier - Rockford P450.4, 60w x 4 @ 4 ohms RMS, connected to 2x10in sub

Subwoofers - 2x10in Rockford P1S410, 150watts @ 4ohms, peak power: 300w, Frequency Response: 30-250 Hz

For 2xsubs, your sub is underpowered.

Option 1: If you use just One x 10in P1S410 sub, then you could bridged your amp to pump out 225W x 2 @ 4-Ohms bridged RMS which should be just right. That means reducing your 2x10in sub to using just one sub (sell off the 2nd one) and of course, change the box size according to size recommended by RF.

Option 2: If you want to keep the 2x10in P1S410 sub, then you need to upgrade your amp, which I personally feel may not be a good idea. Perhaps you could hear from other bros that is more knowledgeable on subs to advise.

 

Oh yes.. forgot to say to keep your new Headunit - Alpine 9887.

Hope to see you this Friday at our ICE meetup. BTW, this is just my personal recommendation. Perhaps other bros have some better advice.

Edited July 21, 2008 by Bobcatsysop

[Dunno]

Uncle Bob, the RF 450.4 is a 4ch amp, when bridged, it is 225w rms x 2ch. Actual rating may be around 250w rms x 2. More than enough to drive 2 x RF P1S4 subs that's 150w rms. Each sub only need 1 ch to run leh, not 2 ch.

[Bobcatsysop]

Oops...Thank you for the correction. So sorry for causing the confusion.

[Ronnchee]

Uncle

 

Thanks for your advice.

 

Anyway, I have changed the front speaker to Focal 165 V1, and the tweeters are mounted on A pillar.

 

I also switched my RF amps, and used it to bridge the Focal and tweeters.

 

My installer "lend" me their MONO block amps to bridge the RF subs.

 

Somehow, I think the tuning was not done properly yet. Still dont have the staging effect lah.

[Bobcatsysop]

Hi Ronn,

 

<>

 

Your 4-ch RF P450.4: 60w x 4 @ 4ohms RMS is barely ok for running your front components 2-way active but when you 'bridged' it, that means you are still running passive? Perhaps that's why you said "Still dont have the staging effect lah".

 

Perhaps you could come to our Friday ICE meetup at AMK ? or can call me to meetup near my house if you like.

Edited July 24, 2008 by Bobcatsysop

[Hyun]

as my installer said the mid bass "cannot catch up" ?

 

the usual reasons are because 1) the installer doesn't know how to make it "catch up" (whatever it means), 2) the installer is unwilling to make it "catch up" because you belong to the lower end of his clientele, and unless you pay more, you have to "wait" to "catch up", 3) the installer invented the term "catch up" and there is actually no such thing.

[Gumpert]

[Ronnchee]

Hi Hyun

 

Have been a long time since we last met. How's your Yrc ??

 

I have changed my front speaker since, and now the "effect" is more better, and you really can feel it.

 

For your reasons above, Pt 1, Yes, he is not really good in tuning SQ Pt 2, the installer is willing, but I have no time for time to "fondle" around, and Pt 3, refer back to Pt 1.

[Dunno]

If the tuning is done by an experience person, using the general crossover and TA settings, it should not take more than 45mins or one hour to get a rough front sound stage with centre vocals. It's the precise fine-tuning to get exact imaging that will take some time.

[Ronnchee]

Thanks for the advise.

 

Currently I am still waiting for my components to be complete, before I send for final tuning.

 

Anyway, I run thru forums to forums, it seems like everybody has some good tuners to recommend.

 

I think Foon audio in Macpherson should be quite credible, look at the trophies

[Dunno]

Just tell him your preference, or leave him some of your favourite discs, he'll use them to tune for you.