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Nice paper from Japanese on lube


Genie47
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Neutral Newbie

Now than the mass gets thinner, where does the already thin people go? [laugh] 0w-10? [sly] How i wish i can get the oil with a HTHS of 3.5cp! [scholar]

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Neutral Newbie
http://www.pecj.or.jp/japanese/report/e-report/01M445e.pdf

 

Even Toyota now recommends xW20 oil.

 

Funny that I can see the pdf from my home PC but not from office PC....

 

Anyway, its a very good nod.gifthumbsup.gif but very technical paper. I read until dizzy.gif.

However, it seems like: [ol] [*]There is no conclusion because there is no oil that meets all the requirements [*]The test engine was kept at or below 3,000 rpm and that is not realistic because most of us to see 4,000 to 7,000 rpm.[/ol]

 

I read one of Ken4's post on BITOG and he mentioned that it takes about 20 to 25 minutes to get the engine oil to operating temperature shocked.gif (between 80 degrees C to 100 degrees C). I think most Honda owners would have kui VTEC before this and I know I used to redline about 15 minutes after starting the engine when water temperature was about 75 degrees C sweatdrop.gif. I honestly think a Oil Temp and Pressure gauge is important, but don't like the bling bling effect on the car interior. (If only someone could make a LCD display measuring no more than 8cm x 3cm to display these info.... I will be the first in line!)

 

Chicken and Egg Situation (Trapped b.w the devil and the deep blue sea)

My ex-ride and my present ride both recommends -w40, if it takes 20 to 25 minutes to get it to operating temperature then maybe I should increase viscosity and get a -w30 oil so that I can reach operating temperature earlier.

 

But if I were to do that, there might be insufficient protection when I redline the engine or when I keep it at high rpms for a extended period on the NS (e.g. 6,000+ rpm for an hour or so). My present ride don't even have a water temperature gauge hur.gifwhip.gifrifle.gif.

 

 

What do you suggest?

 

 

Cheers

Cool_jazz

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Oil temp gauge and oil pressure gauge is best. As for digital display, I think some OBD scanners can do that but it depends on your car.

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If you have read this site, you will be finding oil with the lowest cSt at 40'c (our tropical climate). Remember the focus is startup wear, not winter cold cranking, it's will not be applicable here.

 

No doubt SLX will perform better than Schaeffer in super freezing condition but here SLX 0w30 actually flow slower than Schaeffer 5w30.

 

 

Castrol 0w30

Pour Point.....-63

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Neutral Newbie

hhmm... I read the site but did not check out all the visc numbers on oil.

He did say that a 0w will be less thick at room temperature than a 5w. That much I remembered. And of course to keep pressure at 10psi per 1,000rpm.

 

I believe the Castrol SLX is a full syn oil whereas the Schaeffer is a Group III with group IV. Castrol is rated MB 229.3 whereas the Schaeffer is rated MB 229.1.

 

Question that begs to be answered then is.... how about shearing? With such a thin oil, it might shear down really quickly especially if it group III with group IV additives. At least is a 0w (like the Castrol SLX) its fully syn with less additives and will shear less. Maybe that why the MB ratings are different?

 

In BITOG, the Castrol GC (I believe its the Castrol SLX here) has always had good results. In fact I was tempted to go Castrol RS 10w50 till I read your link by Haas.

 

I am still learning, so pardon my ignorance.

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(edited)

Yes, I agree with you that SLX or GC is a very well balance fully synthetic oil. It's made up mostly of group IV + Group V base oil couple with a strong unique additives package. You can actually do 16k km OCI with this oil without a problem.

 

So let's do a comparison between SLX & Schaeffer #7000 5w30 syn blend.

 

Castrol SLX 0w30 Fully Synthetic

Cost: S$78 per 4L

Flash Point......238

Edited by Trex101
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Neutral Newbie

Can i know where/how you managed to get the idea that thin oil shear down quickly with respect to a thicker oil? Maybe its just me, but i noticed that many 20wt oils thickened as compared to cases that thinned down in the gene pool. I see thicker oils shear down much more often. Same goes to the F575 and F550 comparison in bitog by that Aahas. The M1 20wt stayed in grade while the SHU 40wt sheared 1 grade down.

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Neutral Newbie
Now than the mass gets thinner, where does the already thin people go? [laugh] 0w-10? [sly] How i wish i can get the oil with a HTHS of 3.5cp! [scholar]

 

RL 5W20 [thumbsup]

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