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My present setup


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Neutral Newbie

u mention that u got another amp (what power)for cdt spk.and lighting audio sub using performa amp

 

Front: CDT component speakers/amp

Rear: Kenwood stock 6/9 speakers

Boot: 12" Lighting audio sub/performa monoblock

 

look at your performa spec ,should be enough power for your sub ,unless your sub is DVC .

your sub should be perform very well with that kind of music(hip-hop,my favourite too)

 

boot vibration is normal .cos u never soundproof it.and another thing is your number plate behind need a rubber ring to put in between the boot & the plate to reduce to vibration.

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stock grounding is one small cable to the body chasis. then from ur battery gtot one big 4 gauge cable to ur amp, not 'even' rite?

 

so if wanna diy, go get some 4 gauge cable and ring terminals and can do diy grounding one

 

the ONLY problem i forsee is that.. i duno where to get the bloody 4 gauge ring terminals, sim lim have, but the uncles sometimg damm blur one, duno wat 4 gauge one..

 

basically, 3 main grounding pts:

 

batt to chasis,

alt to chasis

engine to chasis(i think)

 

if u want, i also gonna do diy grounding soon, we do together lah.. hahaha..

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i wouldnt recommend focals for loud music.. though it will do the job, but duno whether it will do the job that well (also imagine u blast until ur focals koyak, u sure heart pain)

 

 

go for DLS UR6s. those are famous for gettin LOUD and CLEAR...

 

do consider.. they are also in the same price range.. heheh.

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Neutral Newbie

Your set is most likely not properly tuned ... [sweatdrop]

Your equipment seems quite OK - like I said before try to max out your current setup before making any decision on what to upgrade.

As for your preference for heavy bass, you would definitely need more sound-proofing especially for your boot area. [nod]

Come down for one of the meetups and see whether our kind brothers can help you out ... [flowerface]

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Neutral Newbie

u coming back monday right? ok lor wait for u.

 

alt to chassis, engine to chassis, why must change those grounding? or those are currently ungrounded?

 

batt to chassis i understand - the 4 gauge + term must match the 4 gauge - term. currently amp is grounded to chassis with 4 gauge, but from chassis, like u said, only small cable return to - term. so this final link must be replaced.

 

our meetup will be on thursday specially for you :) and i told u dun eat those mushrooms u dun believe. see lah, eat lah, US$20 mushroom become US$200. USA is a fine country.

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Neutral Newbie

> CDT went bust?

 

lionheart was telling me the CDT boss ran away with all the money contributed by me when i bought my CDT ... that guy so bad.

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Neutral Newbie

> Bro...may be CDT Boss is afraid that he is passive crossover CMI compared your custom one

 

no lah how can .. the only good thing about mine is that my crossovers are "microwaveable". dun believe i show u next time.

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Neutral Newbie

Hey Headshok,

 

Can I join u also, 'cos I want to do the grounding from my batt too.

 

Btw, those big ring terminals I think you can get from most installer shops. 'cos I got my 0GA ring terminals from one of the audio shops at Alexandra Village. I have one spare now (see picture below). If you want, I can help to get somemore.

 

[inline 4GaRingTerm.jpg]

post-4-1154782273_thumb.jpg

Edited by Eddy216
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Neutral Newbie

problem with this ring terminal is, it doesn't fit most battery terminals right on.. have to screw onto the side somewhere, not the main terminal. i wonder if there are larger rings big enough to fit those fat battery terminals which have a diameter about almost twice this size?

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Neutral Newbie

True, that ring term won't fit directly onto the batt terminals. But those aftermarket binding post, like this one from Efx, I think it should fit directly onto the batt terms.

 

 

[inline Efxbindingpost.jpg]

 

Cost US $29.95 though! But look very nice lah. inlove.gif

post-4-1154849687_thumb.jpg

Edited by Eddy216
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Neutral Newbie

hehe sorry i on a budget, that thing looks too shiny and sleek for me to afford. will stick to that gold ring terminal - just that i have to tie it at the side instead of sitting right on the batt terminal.

 

i'm still wondering what's the rationale of grounding from alternator or engine. cos where ICE is concerned, we mainly need to ground the chassis to the negative terminal because our amp negative runs to the chassis.

 

although nobody seems to have mentioned this, i wonder if this is true:

our power cables can handle up to a certain current. too much and the wire burns. but the current runs thru all the components, and finally back into grounding. if we don't ground with a sufficiently large cable, the excess current can burn the stock thin ground cable also right? or the electricity can really run into "the ground" ?

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