Taking the Scare Out of Auto Repair

[Saaber]

http://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/autos/autorpr.htm

 

 

The best way to avoid auto repair rip-offs is to be prepared. Knowing how your vehicle works and how to identify common car problems is a good beginning. It's also important to know how to select a good technician, the kinds of questions to ask, and your consumer rights.

 

According to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the American Automobile Association (AAA), and the National Association of Attorneys General (NAAG), this kind of information about your automobile may help you keep a lid on mechanical mistakes.

REPAIR INFORMATION

 

How to Choose a Repair Shop

What should I look for when choosing a repair shop?

• Ask for recommendations from friends, family, and other people you trust. Look for an auto repair shop before you need one to avoid being rushed into a last-minute decision.
• Shop around by telephone for the best deal, and compare warranty policies on repairs.
• Ask to see current licenses if state or local law requires repair shops to be licensed or registered. Also, your state Attorney General's office or local consumer protection agency may know whether there's a record of complaints about a particular repair shop.
• Make sure the shop will honor your vehicle's warranty.

 

How to Choose a Technician

Is one technician better than another?

• Look for shops that display various certifications - like an Automotive Service Excellence seal. Certification indicates that some or all of the technicians meet basic standards of knowledge and competence in specific technical areas. Make sure the certifications are current, but remember that certification alone is no guarantee of good or honest work.
• Ask if the technician or shop has experience working on the same make or model vehicle as yours.

 

Repair Charges: Unlocking the Mystery

Before you arrange to have any work performed, ask how the shop prices its work. Some shops charge a flat rate for labor on auto repairs. This published rate is based on an independent or manufacturer's estimate of the time required to complete repairs. Others charge on the basis of the actual time the technician worked on the repair.

 

If you need expensive or complicated repairs, or if you have questions about recommended work, consider getting a second opinion.

 

Find out if there will be a diagnostic charge if you decide to have the work performed elsewhere. Many repair shops charge for diagnostic time.

 

Shops that do only diagnostic work and do not sell parts or repairs may be able to give you an objective opinion about which repairs are necessary.

 

If you decide to get the work done, ask for a written estimate.

 

What should a written estimate include?

• It should identify the condition to be repaired, the parts needed, and the anticipated labor charge. Make sure you get a signed copy.
• It should state that the shop will contact you for approval before they do any work exceeding a specified amount of time or money. State law may require this.

 

What should I know about the parts to be repaired or replaced?

 

Parts are classified as:

• New - These parts generally are made to original manufacturer's specifications, either by the vehicle manufacturer or an independent company. Your state may require repair shops to tell you if non-original equipment will be used in the repair. Prices and quality of these parts vary.
• Remanufactured, rebuilt and reconditioned - These terms generally mean the same thing: parts have been restored to a sound working condition. Many manufacturers offer a warranty covering replacement parts, but not the labor to install them.
• Salvage - These are used parts taken from another vehicle without alteration. Salvage parts may be the only source for certain items, though their reliability is seldom guaranteed.

 

What do I need after the work is done?

• Get a completed repair order describing the work done. It should list each repair, parts supplied, the cost of each part, labor charges, and the vehicle's odometer reading when you brought the vehicle in as well as when the repair order was completed. Ask for all replaced parts. State law may require this.

 

Preventive Maintenance

What are the consequences of postponing maintenance?

• Many parts on your vehicle are interrelated. Ignoring maintenance can lead to trouble: specific parts - or an entire system - can fail. Neglecting even simple routine maintenance, such as changing the oil or checking the coolant, can lead to poor fuel economy, unreliability, or costly breakdowns. It also may invalidate your warranty.

 

What maintenance guidelines should I follow to avoid costly repairs?

• Follow the manufacturer's maintenance schedule in your owner's manual for your type of driving.
• Some repair shops create their own maintenance schedules, which call for more frequent servicing than the manufacturer's recommendations. Compare shop maintenance schedules with those recommended in your owner's manual. Ask the repair shop to explain - and make sure you understand - why it recommends service beyond the recommended schedule.

 

Warranties

What warranties and service contracts apply to vehicle repairs?

• There is no "standard warranty" on repairs. Make sure you understand what is covered under your warranty and get it in writing.
• Be aware that warranties may be subject to limitations, including time, mileage, deductibles, businesses authorized to perform warranty work or special procedures required to obtain reimbursement.
• Check with the Federal Trade Commission or your state or local consumer protection agency for information about your warranty rights.

 

Service Contracts

Many vehicle dealers and others sell optional contracts - service contracts -issued by vehicle manufacturers or independent companies. Not all service contracts are the same; prices vary and usually are negotiable. To help decide whether to purchase a service contract, consider:

• Its cost.
• The repairs to be covered.
• Whether coverage overlaps coverage provided by any other warranty.
• The deductible.
• Where the repairs are to be performed.
• Procedures required to file a claim, such as prior authorization for specific repairs or meeting required vehicle maintenance schedules.
• Whether repair costs are paid directly by the company to the repair shop or whether you will have to pay first and get reimbursed.
• The reputation of the service contract company. Check it out with your state Attorney General's office or local consumer protection agency.

 

How do I resolve a dispute regarding billing, quality of repairs or warranties?

• Document all transactions as well as your experiences with dates, times, expenses, and the names of people you dealt with.
• Talk to the shop manager or owner first. If that doesn't work, contact your Attorney General or local consumer protection agency for help. These offices may have information on alternative dispute resolution programs in your community. Another option is to file a claim in small claims court. You don't need an attorney to do this.

HEADING OFF PROBLEMS

The more you know about your vehicle, the more likely you'll be able to head off repair problems. You can detect many common vehicle problems by using your senses: eyeballing the area around your vehicle, listening for strange noises, sensing a difference in the way your vehicle handles, or even noticing unusual odors.

 

Looks Like Trouble

Small stains or an occasional drop of fluid under your vehicle may not mean much. But wet spots deserve attention; check puddles immediately.

 

You can identify fluids by their color and consistency:

• Yellowish green, pastel blue or florescent orange colors indicate an overheated engine or an antifreeze leak caused by a bad hose, water pump or leaking radiator.
• A dark brown or black oily fluid means the engine is leaking oil. A bad seal or gasket could cause the leak.
• A red oily spot indicates a transmission or power-steering fluid leak.
• A puddle of clear water usually is no problem. It may be normal condensation from your vehicle's air conditioner.

 

Smells Like Trouble

Some problems are under your nose. You can detect them by their odor:

• The smell of burned toast - a light, sharp odor - often signals an electrical short and burning insulation. To be safe, try not to drive the vehicle until the problem is diagnosed.
• The smell of rotten eggs - a continuous burning-sulphur smell - usually indicates a problem in the catalytic converter or other emission control devices. Don't delay diagnosis and repair.
• A thick acrid odor usually means burning oil. Look for sign of a leak.
• The smell of gasoline vapors after a failed start may mean you have flooded the engine. Wait a few minutes before trying again. If the odor persists, chances are there's a leak in the fuel system - a potentially dangerous problem that needs immediate attention.
• Burning resin or an acrid chemical odor may signal overheated brakes or clutch. Check the parking brake. Stop. Allow the brakes to cool after repeated hard braking on mountain roads. Light smoke coming from a wheel indicates a stuck brake. The vehicle should be towed for repair.
• A sweet, steamy odor indicates a coolant leak. If the temperature gauge or warning light does not indicate overheating, drive carefully to the nearest service station, keeping an eye on your gauges. If the odor is accompanied by a hot, metallic scent and steam from under the hood, your engine has overheated. Pull over immediately. Continued driving could cause severe engine damage. The vehicle should be towed for repair.

 

Sounds Like Trouble

Squeaks, squeals, rattles, rumbles, and other sounds provide valuable clues about problems and maintenance needs. Here are some common noises and what they mean:

 

Squeal - A shrill, sharp noise, usually related to engine speed:

• Loose or worn power steering, fan or air conditioning belt.

 

Click - A slight sharp noise, related to either engine speed or vehicle speed:

• Loose wheel cover.
• Loose or bent fan blade.
• Stuck valve lifter or low engine oil.

 

Screech - A high-pitched, piercing metallic sound; usually occurs while the vehicle is in motion:

• Caused by brake wear indicators to let you know it's time for maintenance.

 

Rumble - a low-pitched rhythmic sound.

• Defective exhaust pipe, converter or muffler.
• Worn universal joint or other drive-line component.

 

Ping - A high-pitched metallic tapping sound, related to engine speed:

• Usually caused by using gas with a lower octane rating than recommended. Check your owner's manual for the proper octane rating. If the problem persists, engine ignition timing could be at fault.

 

Heavy Knock - A rhythmic pounding sound:

• Worn crankshaft or connecting rod bearings.
• Loose transmission torque converter.

 

Clunk - A random thumping sound:

• Loose shock absorber or other suspension component.
• Loose exhaust pipe or muffler.

 

Feels Like Trouble

Difficult handling, a rough ride, vibration and poor performance are symptoms you can feel. They almost always indicate a problem.

 

Steering

• Misaligned front wheels and/or worn steering components, such as the idler or ball joint, can cause wandering or difficulty steering in a straight line.
• Pulling - the vehicle's tendency to steer to the left or right - can be caused by something as routine as under-inflated tires, or as serious as a damaged or misaligned front end.

 

Ride and Handling

• Worn shock absorbers or other suspension components - or improper tire inflation - can contribute to poor cornering.
• While there is no hard and fast rule about when to replace shock absorbers or struts, try this test: bounce the vehicle up and down hard at each wheel and then let go. See how many times the vehicle bounces. Weak shocks will allow the vehicle to bounce twice or more.
• Springs do not normally wear out and do not need replacement unless one corner of the vehicle is lower than the others. Overloading your vehicle can damage the springs.
• Balance tires properly. An unbalanced or improperly balanced tire causes a vehicle to vibrate and may wear steering and suspension components prematurely.

 

Brakes

Brake problems have several symptoms. Schedule diagnosis and repair if:

• The vehicle pulls to one side when the brakes are applied.
• The brake pedal sinks to the floor when pressure is maintained.
• You hear or feel scraping or grinding during braking.
• The "brake" light on the instrument panel is lit.

 

Engine

The following symptoms indicate engine trouble. Get a diagnosis and schedule the repair.

• Difficulty starting the engine.
• The "check engine" light on the instrument panel is lit.
• Rough idling or stalling.
• Poor acceleration.
• Poor fuel economy.
• Excessive oil use (more than one quart between changes).
• Engine continues running after the key is removed.

 

Transmission

Poor transmission performance may come from actual component failure or a simple disconnected hose or plugged filter. Make sure the technician checks the simple items first; transmission repairs normally are expensive. Some of the most common symptoms of transmission problems are:

• Abrupt or hard shifts between gears.
• Delayed or no response when shifting from neutral to drive or reverse.
• Failure to shift during normal acceleration.
• Slippage during acceleration. The engine speeds up, but the vehicle does not respond.

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Car trouble doesn't always mean major repairs. Here are some common causes of trouble and techniques to help you and your technician find and fix problems:

• Alternator - Loose wiring can make your alternator appear defective. Your technician should check for loose connections and perform an output test before replacing the alternator.
• Battery - Corroded or loose battery terminals can make the battery appear dead or defective. Your technician should clean the terminals and test battery function before replacing the battery.
• Starter - What appears to be a defective starter actually may be a dead battery or poor connection. Ask your technician to check all connections and test the battery before repairing the starter.
• Muffler - a loud rumbling noise under your vehicle indicates a need for a new muffler or exhaust pipe.
• Tuneup - The old-fashioned "tuneup" may not be relevant to your vehicle. Fewer parts, other than belts, spark plugs, hoses and filters, need to be replaced on newer vehicles. Follow the recommendations in your owner's manual.

[Saaber]

Car Care Tips

Some of the most important tips I can give you are things you should not do to your vehicle, so I will begin with those.

OVERHEATING: Please, never drive your vehicle when you know or suspect that your engine is overheating. This is a very expensive decision. If your temperature gauge is 3/4 or over, pull over and turn off the engine. Do not try to fix it yourself - just raising your hood at the wrong time can cause serious injury. If you do not see any steam or coolant boiling out onto the ground, you should be able to allow your engine to cool off 15-20 minutes, then restart and quickly drive to the nearest phone or service facility, constantly watching the temperature gauge. The safest decision is usually to call a tow truck. Just a minimum amount of overheating can actually ruin your engine and cost you a bundle on replacement. Constantly observing all the gauges on your car while driving should be as regular as looking into your mirrors. It's that important.

OIL LIGHTS: NEVER NEVER EVER drive with an oil light on or flashing, quickly pull over and turn off the engine. Checking the oil level will quickly tell you whether you have a low oil situation or an internal oil pressure problem. If the level is low, like not even on the dipstick, that may be why you have a light on. Correct the level and then restart the engine - if the light still appears, call a tow truck. If the light stays out, you may drive home or to the nearest full service facility and find out why the oil level was low. Each time that light is on at that moment you have no oil pressure, which means that your high revving engine is running with no lubrication going to all the moving parts. End result - serious engine damage.

EXCUSES: Please keep in mind some of the excuses we have heard over the years of why they did not pull over and turn off their engine: I was late to an important meeting; I was just trying to make it to work, or home; I was trying to get to the daycare on time; I was on the freeway trying to get closer to Houston before I pulled over. All these excuses ended with a $3000 to $6000 shop bill, plus being without their car for a week, and the price of a rental car. We realize that sometimes you have no other choice, especially when driving through an area that may be unsafe for you or your passengers to pull over and get out. Just be aware that the two items noted above can get expensive very quickly.

NOISES: Never ignore strange noises. If you drive the car most of the time, and you hear a noise that was not there the last time you drove the car, and it does not sound like it is going away any time soon, you should have someone check it out for you. It's always better to be safe than sorry.

HIGH WATER: During some of our heavy rains here in Houston we frequently experience localized flooding. When at all possible you must avoid driving through deep water. What is deep water? When the water is as high as the curb, 4 inches or above, try to go around it, take another route. Some years flood damage can rank third as the most expensive car insurance claims, right behind collision and theft. Driving through deep water can cause wheel bearing grease to be washed out, brake components at each wheel to rust and seize, carpet and/or the padding underneath can become saturated before you see the first drop of water on the floorboard, computers, relays, modules and wiring harness that are mounted on the floor of your car can become shorted or corroded. The interior of your car can become mildewed with a wonderful odor that follows. And if the water is high enough, or a big truck drives with you into that big puddle/river of water and creates a serious wave, your engine's air intake snorkel can pick up water, causing your engine to hydrolock, which ends in serious engine repairs and leaves you going for a swim. Along with the time it takes dealing with your insurance company, flood repairs can take weeks to repair, if they don't total your car. So watch the weather, listen to traffic reports, learn the high water areas during storms when you're out, and avoid them in the future. If you do drive through deep water, you should give us a call so we can look your car over. Don't wait until something fails, or a check engine light comes on...it's usually more expensive by that time. So please, don't become a "U" boat commander!

OIL CHANGES: Based on our own experience with our own service vehicles and personal vehicles, we recommend to change the oil every 3,750 miles or 90 days, whichever comes first. We do not believe in the need for expensive synthetic oil in normal use vehicles that are serviced as mentioned above. Honda even points that out in some of the later owners manuals. We also do not believe in cheap oil or oil filters used in many facilities today.

SCHEDULED MAINTENANCE: For years many people have argued about the maintenance schedule auto manufactures put into the owner's manuals. They claim that these services are expensive and unnecessary. All that we can share with you is our experience. I believe in following the maintenance schedule whether you own a Honda or a Ford; they are important and they do pay off. We have had several cars come into our shops over the years with well over 250-300 thousand miles on them, and they all had been serviced by the maintenance schedule. Another thing we have found over the years (which became rather humorous) was all the educated young women who had been coming into our shops for years servicing their Honda or Acura just they way they were supposed to, and getting excellent reliability out of their cars. Then after getting married, and leaving all the car details up to the new man in their lives, we would stop seeing the cars for regular service. When we did finally see the car, they were always in for repairs. Most people do not even realize that the car manufacturer or the extended warranty companies can deny most repairs that were under warranty if you do not have receipts showing you maintained the vehicle according to your owner's manual. Do not underestimate the importance of scheduled maintenance.

YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL: I am still amazed to this day by the number of people who will invest $5000 to $35,000 in a vehicle they depend on every day, and never open the owner's manual! Reading your manual, and understanding everything in it, is one of the most important things you can do for your car.