Autocraze Neutral Newbie July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 Mine was brought in from the US when someone came back. You can't get it locally. I DIYed my car by hand which took 16 hours of sweat for 2 coats. Unless you have friends going there or coming here from the US, then you can get them to get it for you. Only US$30 to US$35 per bottle. did u also get the Glare microfinish which is good to cover/remove swirl and minor scratches before applying the polish?? ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Autocraze Neutral Newbie July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 Yup! Until you park next to another car that has a super shine! Then you wah... u so emotional.. I will just admire the shine lor.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwoon 1st Gear July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 No, I didn't. Just got the Glare polish. Anyway, for the benefit of those who do not already know the characteristics of the polish since most would just send the car for GLARE and get it back after its done. Here's what I posted in another forum. I did my GLARE personally so let me share with you what I experienced. 1. Coloured stains (which could not be removed by stain removers) on the surface can be rubbed out upon application of the GLARE polish. Draker stains must use more force before it is removed. 2. Light/fine scratches on the surfaces are removed by the coating. 3. Had a patch on the top which was "clear coat eaten" by bird sxxt. That also was rubbed away with the polish. 4. Tarnished areas on chrome surfaces like the grille can be brought back to shine and stays shiny so far. In fact, I used GLARE to polish the outside of my kettle which was badly tarnished/scorched and it came out great. 5. Do not get the polish onto plastic/rubber areas especially textured sufaces like fenders as they cannot be removed and turns white with washing. I'm still suffering with my poor handywork. 6. The coating cannot cover up the pits and chips on paintwork as they are too deep or big. 7. GLARE can withstand high temps and although my bonnet is hotter than most cars due to its nature, the coating still stays on. Not like waxes which disappears within a week of application. (Kettle surface is also still shiny after a month). Hope these few points helps you. Also, do note that it is not advisable to do the self application by hand as it is way too tedious as I found out (16 hrs job for 2 coats). If you must, buy a rotary polisher for ~$40 which'll help a long way to reduce the time/effort. Cheers! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuabc Neutral Newbie July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 So tat means glare is a coating itself adding on top of your clearcoat. then tell me what will happen when ur car is being vandalise and u bring in for painting. the poor fellow will hv to remove the miserable coating to access to the paintwork. and whenits done, the parts tat are been re-paint will be glareless. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwoon 1st Gear July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 Actually, I think the Glare goes into the clear coat but not sure if it actually dissolves the clear coat away. The coat is in sub microns and not as thick as one thinks. I too initially thought that perhaps the layer will crack in time or maybe flake or something. But its not the case. Dents will still occur as per normal when someone opens their car doors too hard & hit yours. When the paint is removed, obviously the GLARE is removed with it. That's why its called coating. Paint is also a coating, so is clear coat ........ if paint is removed, isn't it obvious what happens to any form of layers on top of it, be it Glare or some other form of protective coats? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zakuii 1st Gear July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 that's why going back to glare for touch semi-annually sounds like a good idea! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
King 1st Gear July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 as long my car shine under day light,good enough for me. when under the MSCP light,all scatches surface...... inevitable... no way to have 100% siwrl free paintwork... That why i do it my self. as long one is driving on road,how not to have no scatch??? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tien Neutral Newbie July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 Agreed. according to glare web site, glare actually bends with the clear coat (or paint) so that it becomes part of the coating. glare's property will strengthen the clear coat and enables it to shine. of course, all will be gone when you go for paint touch up/ respray/ etc... everything including klasse, zaino wax and whatever you have on that part of the car will Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lufu 1st Gear July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 (edited) the mobile car washing is very affordable to most HDB landers... but when I see them using the same cloths to do up all the cars in a night, I that is car wash, not car polish right. and best of all the $20+ service even removes all stains on the car including interior Edited July 29, 2004 by Lufu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jagash Neutral Newbie July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 The kettle is not painted but it is subjected to 100 deg C daily to boil water. At least it can withstand heat rather than waxes or inferior coatings which'll disintegrate under heat. I don't think your bonnet experiences 100 deg C right? especially when moving as there's the wind cooling factor. First of all just heat protection is not sufficient for paintwork. A lot of damage is done through the exposure of UV light etc. Secondly, since your kettle is not painted but stainless steel or chrome. There are lots of polish out there that are made for stainless steel and chrome but these are not recommended for painted surface. So just because it is good for your kettle does not mean it is good for the car paintwork. The stuff may be too harsh and dry out your paint in the long run. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jagash Neutral Newbie July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 No, I didn't. Just got the Glare polish. Anyway, for the benefit of those who do not already know the characteristics of the polish since most would just send the car for GLARE and get it back after its done. Here's what I posted in another forum. I did my GLARE personally so let me share with you what I experienced. 1. Coloured stains (which could not be removed by stain removers) on the surface can be rubbed out upon application of the GLARE polish. Draker stains must use more force before it is removed. 2. Light/fine scratches on the surfaces are removed by the coating. 3. Had a patch on the top which was "clear coat eaten" by bird ****. That also was rubbed away with the polish. 4. Tarnished areas on chrome surfaces like the grille can be brought back to shine and stays shiny so far. In fact, I used GLARE to polish the outside of my kettle which was badly tarnished/scorched and it came out great. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jagash Neutral Newbie July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 If it just blend with the clearcoat, how are the swirl marks removed? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrate Neutral Newbie July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 yeah man, i've engaged the services of mr ling... saturday morning appointment... will show you guys the results! $28 including interior! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrate Neutral Newbie July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 did u consider amazing glaze before you got this glare package? sad to say no... I wanted to try it after glare to see effect. But this means I gonna claybar and apply AG all over again... Did you try it?? How's the beading effect and shine after a mth?? no i havent done anything yet... still considering which is da best... in fact, gonna try out the cheap polishing by mr ling this saturday morning and see how's the results... then after that made appointment wif yong... he said he'll gimme a demo at maxwell... on another note, i called amazing glaze and asked them regarding glare... as expected, they said 'not very nice' things about glare and claimed that they complained to CASE about glare too... so i must say i'm really really confused... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuabc Neutral Newbie July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 its always like tat dude. who will say his/her product is inferior. Juz go get wat u wan. try it urself and fom there then u learn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitrate Neutral Newbie July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 yeah u're right man... dats why i'm getting mr ling's cheap polishing! $18 for exterior, $10 for interior...! hope it goes well! will post pics after done... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genie47 1st Gear July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 OK Straight talk on these stuff. Wax: Doesn't last very long. Maybe 2 weeks the most. If done properly, nice deep shine. Sealant: Don't let people bluff you. The most 6mths of protection or depending on how often your park outside and wash the car. If they claim can last donkey years, you know they are pulling your leg. Shine is sterile but still shine lah! Teflon stuff: Don't even go near it. Auri and all these are uselss. Cannot protect against UV. BTW, Blue Coral's Fomblin A is Teflon. Nobody will say their stuff is bad but ask anyone who has done detailing, the above is what they will say. These are realistic answers and not hype. Another thing too. Anything that shines the best usually protects the shortest. Cannot always have your cake and eat it. Want to make it look good, must sweat more often. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuabc Neutral Newbie July 29, 2004 Share July 29, 2004 If its not, then PM me. I do for u lor. Sure customer satisfactory But remember to pay 4 my labour hor. ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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