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Help needed on sub woofer


Sparetyre
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Neutral Newbie
Finally experienced Soluna's ICE liow..... [cool] Can feel the air movement in the cabin caused by the sub. My hair was actually jumping up and down... [:p]

 

I was thinking of calling you.... want to have an amp to feel like Soluna's... [blush]

Drool everytime I think about it.... [blush]

 

[laugh][laugh][laugh][;)] Still have the roof and the bonnet to sound proof...

[cool][cool][cool]

 

love the sound of my woofer.... [angelic]

 

thanx a bunch Geoff....

 

Cheers

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Neutral Newbie
(edited)

Yeah the Cerwin Vega, Vega Series in Soluna's Soluna 4 sure is one of the best money can buy. And the best part is this genuine handcrafted in USA by one of the foremost expert sub manufacturers will not cost an arm and a leg.

 

But...

 

Ur OZ is the epitome of a refined SQ sub. It will go deep like the 15" and will very accurately reproduce all the different kinds of sub response from 30hz up to 160hz. Musical, controlled and loud 'nuff. Loudness of course losing out to the 15", but only just and it's only a 12" W/ a moderate size magnet unlike the Vega 15" W/ a double stacked dual strotium magnet set up.

 

U should take an audition of 'Duh's' from ICE Forum Lancer. The sub response one kinda nice, only problem all Lancers' booties tend to be very prone to vibraty. And U know how much U got that OZ 4 rite? [;)]

Edited by AutoS
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Neutral Newbie

Bro,

 

Ur system is the perfect example of an efficient but complete system kept to the simplest with perfectly matched hardware chosen for their unmatched performance for $$ spent. End result is the best possible performing set up for budget, W/ no $$ wasted. Nice clean and powerful performance. Every component is there for a crucial reason.

 

In contrast there are many a system driving around crammed with unnecessary hardware, draining the available power supply to the extent the whole system is struggling and it shows in the performance, and serving no other purpose other than to make more sales for the installer and stroke the egos of the owners who think they got something special. Until .. they get a chance to audition 'real car audio'.

 

First up U got the CDT Cambria 6" up front , just abt the best entry range speakers and sound great W/ the powerful Boss driving. Want audiophile standard will never lose out to those multi-K systems AutoS guarantee, just swap these spkrs; and the HD's are in the pipeline rite?

 

The sub got one Cerwin Vega, Vega 15" practically the best money can buy and being less than $500 can easily outperform majority of subs costing more and much more. Best part as a single sub U have a slim fit customed box for neat look and boot saving space and bass response and power a lot better than most pple's multi sub systems. U know it after comparing to so many others in club meets U attend rite?

 

The Boss Chaos amp is cheap like diaorhea for the kinda power. 150WattRms/ch @4ohms stereo can make any mid sing, and the rear ch bridged is getting a massive 420WattRms/ch @ 4ohm. More than enuff to max out the powerful but super efficient Vega.

 

One low priced powerful performing amp, less current draw for the little Soluna alternator and massive performance matched to produce 'real car audio'.

 

The PPI pre-amp, serves to do that EQ balance needed to tune up for the best possible line drive. Strong uncoloured signal line drive and effective frequency adjustments as good as hi-end pre-amps costing a lot more.

 

Ur VDO top of the line HU, older model chosen by U performs well and gives good clean signal although build quality could be a bit more solid. But hey, again at that Px nothing to complain.

 

Besides the speaker upgrade U can add in a capacitor to stabilize all the current 4 better performance. Other than that U honestly aren't going to get much better unless U gonna do something radical like Tubedriver Amp or run 3-way upfront.

 

Reason why I am citing Ur system in detail is to give a live example for Bros here on how to get more and the most from less and achieve 'real car audio' without breaking the bank. Even if one has deep pockets every bit of $$ spent should be allocated to SQ improvement and nothing less.

 

Cheers Bro seeya Sat,

AutoS

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Neutral Newbie
.........

The Boss Chaos amp is cheap like diaorhea for the kinda power. 150WattRms/ch @4ohms stereo can make any mid sing, and the rear ch bridged is getting a massive 420WattRms/ch @ 4ohm. More than enuff to max out the powerful but super efficient Vega.

 

Can I opt for the cheaper Boss amp than the AutoTek? Really keen to upgrade so that can "feel" the 12" OZ sings..... [cool]

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Neutral Newbie

Hi all esp Geoff...

 

Just want the rest of the boys here to know what can be done to the ICE if they are interested...

 

To Upgrade in stages rather that in a whole lump sum...

 

 

Ur system is the perfect example of an efficient but complete system kept to the simplest with perfectly matched hardware chosen for their unmatched performance for $$ spent. End result is the best possible performing set up for budget, W/ no $$ wasted. Nice clean and powerful performance. Every component is there for a crucial reason.

 

I Could not agree more...

 

In contrast there are many a system driving around crammed with unnecessary hardware, draining the available power supply to the extent the whole system is struggling and it shows in the performance, and serving no other purpose other than to make more sales for the installer and stroke the egos of the owners who think they got something special. Until .. they get a chance to audition 'real car audio'.

 

Till now I have not turned down an audition... In a matter a fact I am looking for a system with the same amount of moolas spent to other installer's set up to audition... sorry [angelic] hope tt i dun sound too "lau lan" or "sia lan" but I really hope for a friendly compairison here...

 

First up U got the CDT Cambria 6" up front , just abt the best entry range speakers and sound great W/ the powerful Boss driving. Want audiophile standard will never lose out to those multi-K systems AutoS guarantee, just swap these spkrs; and the HD's are in the pipeline rite?

 

Sure as hell... cannot wait to change the fronts to HDs and move the CAs to the rear...

 

The sub got one Cerwin Vega, Vega 15" practically the best money can buy and being less than $500 can easily outperform majority of subs costing more and much more. Best part as a single sub U have a slim fit customed box for neat look and boot saving space and bass response and power a lot better than most pple's multi sub systems. U know it after comparing to so many others in club meets U attend rite?

 

By far the only 15" I have compaired.... are set up by you too.... [;)]

the rest... are all pre-made boxes...

so no compairison. [blush]

 

The Boss Chaos amp is cheap like diaorhea for the kinda power. 150WattRms/ch @4ohms stereo can make any mid sing, and the rear ch bridged is getting a massive 420WattRms/ch @ 4ohm. More than enuff to max out the powerful but super efficient Vega.

 

You should see some of the people who knows car stereo see what amp i was using... they went [crazy]

 

[;)]

They were still trying to figure out how is that possible.... [laugh]

 

One low priced powerful performing amp, less current draw for the little Soluna alternator and massive performance matched to produce 'real car audio'.

 

well that was unexpected after some pple looked under the hood to see a guage 2 cable.... [sly]

 

The PPI pre-amp, serves to do that EQ balance needed to tune up for the best possible line drive. Strong uncoloured signal line drive and effective frequency adjustments as good as hi-end pre-amps costing a lot more.

 

I was really surprised with it's performance....

 

Ur VDO top of the line HU, older model chosen by U performs well and gives good clean signal although build quality could be a bit more solid. But hey, again at that Px nothing to complain.

 

Still hoping to get that Alpine 7876... but for my current situtation now... this VDO will have to do.... [blush]

 

Besides the speaker upgrade U can add in a capacitor to stabilize all the current 4 better performance. Other than that U honestly aren't going to get much better unless U gonna do something radical like Tubedriver Amp or run 3-way upfront.

 

As for the Cap, I was told that by far the most stable Cap is RF... is that true??

Anyway As for the Tube amp.... [:/] think that will have to wait... [blush]

 

Reason why I am citing Ur system in detail is to give a live example for Bros here on how to get more and the most from less and achieve 'real car audio' without breaking the bank. Even if one has deep pockets every bit of $$ spent should be allocated to SQ improvement and nothing less.

 

I totally agree.... By far I think I am a good example of how many of the pple here can upgrade in stages and at the same time appreciate the SQ improvement in stages...

 

[;)]

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Neutral Newbie
Hi all esp Geoff...

 

Just want the rest of the boys here to know what can be done to the ICE if they are interested...

 

To Upgrade in stages rather that in a whole lump sum...

.....

.....

[;)]

 

Hey Soluna, think you better stay away from AutoS for a while..... [:p]

You are getting more long winded than him liow... look at your reply.... [;)]

 

Heehee....dun be angry...just kidding ok?? [laugh]

 

Actually, I absolutely agree with you and I think I learned the hard way.... [mad]

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Neutral Newbie

CH,

 

Boss got 3 series of amps each W/ abt 8 models. Yes Soluna's one indeed could be good for U, it is a good choice. ... But if splitting hairs, 4 sure the Autotek is still a superior amp and price also superior. I rate those Autoteks right up there as the best. But the 4ch at ard $650 is right there, W/ the best, amongst amps which cost over the 4 figure. In fact for pure performance I would choose the Autotek ahead of what is recognized as the best of the best amp among serious enthusiasts anyday. This amp cost multi K amd strikes awe in pple's speach when discussing the brand name in ICE conversations.

 

Specs is an initial guideline. Simple test is the the smoothness and ease of power an amp powers the signal thro. An excellent amp has to be uncoloured and aids in the producing of fine resolution in the sound reproduction amplifying every detail becuz of it's smoothness of power delivery. Also in violent transients like sudden changes in frequency and sudden burst of sounds an excellent amp will have a full controlled grip at all times. And needless to say even full blast the amp will never cut. The Autotek amps have all these properties.

 

Same good speakers different amp test Snow Rose for the nuances. Can hear the difference in naturalness and detail between different amps. Then test Erich Kunzell and the Cincinatti pops movie soundtracks - Star Wars, Godzilla, Jurasic Lunch and Tsaikovsky 1812 overture real canons firing recording. Do it at full blast, the lousy amps cut or even smoke out, the so-so amps like cannot keep up, no grip and the excellent amps like Autotek will play and grip every detail to the extent U will not only hear but feel the sounds and get transported right into the sound field.

 

The Autotek amp gain I set at barely 9 O'clock to get good comps to fully sing at least distortion setting and barely 10.30 to get subs thumping at max. Then I come accross these multi K, name drop, heart skip, kinda amp name... Amp, and I got to crank to 1.30 to get the same comps to sing and when I got to crank sub up to 3 O'clock and still not get full thump. Can't help feeling that an international scam, con job swallowed wholesale by the majority of enthusiasts is at hand. Not being a smarty pants but it's staring me right in the face, I got to be in denial not to resognise. No logic, but a lot of pple sure as hell in this denial .. I can't under der stand.

 

W/ the Tubedriver at least, touted as the best, can actually audibly hear and experience an obvious diff produced from the unique and innovative design. ie having all those properties described above plus that pure, warm signature tube sound reminesc of the best home audio tube amps. Set up properly W/ the right speakers, who says men cannot multiple orgaz? [shocked]

 

Yes got carried away ... again [crazy]. But back to that Boss - being such a powerful amp, it is one of the very few 4ch that are purpose built 4 sub duties. This one is and as a result only has LP in-built X-over. ie no HP. Yup Soluna's system got one electronic X-over unit to take care of fading sub from front comps. In dereliction I forgot to mention when describing his system. [blush] So that's a consideration 4 U, cuz electronic X-over also money must come out. [:(]

 

Anyways we'll wait and see, eventually I am sure U will eradicate that little problem, a result of previous recommendation.

 

AutoS

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Neutral Newbie

Bro,

 

I never use Rockford Fosgate power caps B4. So I cannot make a definitve assesment. But I wouldn't be to quick in listening to what 'those pple' say. Cuz the biggest cause of false ICE phallacies and all that mis-allocation of ICE$$ arise from what 'those pple' say.

 

Baically I avoid most things RF but invariably end up using it cuz the brand is so pop many of my customers already have it. So I am forced to do my best with it. It's like when U want the best Laksa U go to Katong Laksa and not Mediteranean Kopi Tiam food court. And similarly for best Makerel Otak U go to Joo Chiat Otak Specialist. For audio this is even more pronounced.

 

Power caps? Brax are the premium specialists but U pay specialists Px. The 2Farrad Intelligent Power Cap will retail @ $1.2K if U can get Ur hands on it. My van using 3 of these. [:p] For stupendous power external blasting system the second connect up the Brax as opposed to others can hear the bass firm up. Saw Ban Leong brought in some oblong shaped ones look pretty solid and specs look good even got 5 Farad one. Definitely will be cheaper than RF and do U think performance will lose out to RF? [;)]

 

AutoS

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Neutral Newbie

Actually, I absolutely agree with you and I think I learned the hard way.... [mad]

 

Double spend right?? [cool]

 

Dun make it so clear lah, bro!!! [:p]

 

I embrassed lah.... [blush]

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Neutral Newbie
Dun make it so clear lah, bro!!! [:p]

 

I embrassed lah.... [blush]

 

[;)]

Ok sorry, me admit too... me also double spend abit before i went to Geoff's,

But all in all i spent only less than 500 buckaroos.... [laugh]

 

Anyway that's what I am trying to let the rest of the bro's know too... before they do the same thing too...

 

The thing is also... many like it loud, not wanting it good....

I think loud is easy... sound good is hard.... loud and good is even harder... [sly]

 

Cheers

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Neutral Newbie

ice soluna - how did you manage to do it all for less than 500 buck ?? maybe i shd pay geoff a visit as well as i've spent about $750 by now for a new amp and usd front component. not really happy.

 

You were saying in previous threads that a pair of new CDT classic costs $300+ inc installation ???

 

Thks

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Neutral Newbie
ice soluna - how did you manage to do it all for less than 500 buck ?? maybe i shd pay geoff a visit as well as i've spent about $750 by now for a new amp and usd front component. not really happy.

 

You were saying in previous threads that a pair of new CDT classic costs $300+ inc installation ???

 

Thks

 

If you followed the thread, I mentioned that I double spend and spent about 500 bucks before I went to Geoff...

 

Anyway that 300++ was coming close to about 400, and that was for the old CDTs, now I was told that the CDTs comes with the 1" tweeters... I thought I have replied to your personal mail??

 

Perhaps you have not read it yet...

 

Anyway, there is no such thing as cheap and cheaper... even if there is... prob the opp cost is the hardware... of a lower grade...

 

Cheers

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