Richieleo Neutral Newbie October 17, 2002 Share October 17, 2002 What's a good amp for a 10" sub? Anyone? ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guyver 1st Gear October 17, 2002 Share October 17, 2002 Welcome to MCF!! Do have fun here and join our meetups!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolaba 1st Gear October 18, 2002 Share October 18, 2002 Hi, U can consider an Autotek SS750.1 http://www.millenniumaudio.com/supersport.htm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AutoS Neutral Newbie October 19, 2002 Share October 19, 2002 (edited) More expensive than the other Autotek Series and not suitable for most applications. For low impedence multi-sub usage can try, but from trying B4 the so-called sub-purpose usage is an over statement. I can't remember, but it may be one of those class D sub amps which are built to give more power without sucking more current. Others using this type of class D amp have been disappointed ie less performance from sub and less grip. If this Autotek is not a class D, it sure behaves like one. The last one I did we traded back 4 an Autotek SS550.2 bridged gave much superior performance. Ur recommendation probably based on manufacturers specs and implied usage, not to be faulted. For that same reason I also try, but once bitten ... For the most single 10" subs, in fact an Autotek SS300.2 puhlenty enuff. In fact I used one in a CRV also featured in an earlier issue of Wheels, to drive a 15" PPI sub and the bass response was puhlenty happening! So a single 10" will hardly be a probm. No need to look for overkill amps. Edited October 19, 2002 by AutoS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nozzlehead Neutral Newbie October 19, 2002 Share October 19, 2002 hi how much do you chagre for fibreglass fabrication of 2 12" sub? Using sealed box, currently. Need boot space. Can give a rough price? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AutoS Neutral Newbie October 19, 2002 Share October 19, 2002 What car are U intending to do it in? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nozzlehead Neutral Newbie October 19, 2002 Share October 19, 2002 lancer yr 2001. Perhaps you can PM me the estimated price? Also, i may need u to fabricate the 3 amps i have in my car. thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AutoS Neutral Newbie October 20, 2002 Share October 20, 2002 Bro, Best call me 97870213, then we can discuss in detail. AutoS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolaba 1st Gear October 20, 2002 Share October 20, 2002 Hi AutoS, Thanks for your recommendation. The SS750.1 is a class D amp. I'm keen in driving an IDQ12" dual 2 ohms, power handling 350W RMS. Will the SS550.2 be able to drive it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AutoS Neutral Newbie October 20, 2002 Share October 20, 2002 Well the only IDQ subs I've used are SVC ones. The IDQ Max is sumpthin I avoid. My feeling is that this is a max excursion, super power handling, need huge power type amp kinda SPL sub. Then worst still may end up W/ insufficient current supply issues At best after spending all that money on the sub and amp only gonna get reasonably good bass response. Feel that can get a lot better from a lot less money from subs that are purpose built for accurate bass response and don't require amps that knock out close to 4 figure WattsRms or more to get the most out. But back to Ur 2ohm DVC. U could run each ch from the Autotek SS550.2 into each VC. No need to worry much abt stereo ch cuz the bass frequencies on most recordings aren't stereo anyway, but if they were also not a problem for bass hits. Run this way quite often, no problem. Thing is at 2ohms the amp may have overheating probms can be solved W/ fan but not sure how good the grip is until actually try. @ 2ohms gonna have more than 550 Watts going into sub but whether the amp is stable or not .... That Class D monobloc if specs say can go down to 1 ohm should give some punch running both VC's in parallel. But I have seen lot's of these monoblocs spec'ed for lo impedance also cut off running continuously cuz they are purposed built for short bursts of max power for SPL purposes. If U already got this sub then the best bet is one of these monobloc or 2ch bridged can go lo-lo impedence amps. Hopefully the one U choose won't cut and can give even stabilized power not just huge power at lo-ohms. DVC 2ohms? Would not be my choice of sub. Complicates matters and begs for more money to be spent. How much SPL can one tolerate in the car anyway. Most better 'normal' sub or sub set-ups are more than capable of blasting beyond tolerance levels in the car. To me the ideal sub-bass response is upfront controlled bass that can go deep-deep, punch hard and be musical and controllable up to human tolerance levels. Of course need to have good sub/subs W/ decent size VC and magnet and decent amp matched. Don't need super macho sub and amp for that. In fact more likely to achieve W/ the first option here. Max excursion does not make for controlled bass and response only at 70hz and lower does not make for good thumping bass response only a lot of resonance. The greatest Con in Car Audio World Wide is the perpetuation of macho SPL subs and amps for SQ purposes. If these subs and amps were only sold to SPL pple then the manufacturers would have no market. BTW for those not in the know Sound Pressure Level has absolutely nothing to do W/ any kinda music reproduction. SPL is for SPL competition to see how much Sound Pressure can be created and where judges, contestants, all wear ear muffs 4 protection. Just my thoughts, a drop in the Ocean cuz even those who read here there will be lots who will still opt for macho subs and amps. To some spending big money on macho image is worth the investment and the placebo performance is reality. .. and this refers even to some pple who really know their stuff and theories. Such is the power of the American marketing machine. Who here thinks Big Mac is better quality and taste to Whopper? Which is really better and which sells better? But no problemo, to each his own but I hope these comments may lead to some spending their $$ more efficiently. AutoS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolaba 1st Gear October 20, 2002 Share October 20, 2002 Hi AutoS, I think all new IDQs come in DVC http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/website/products/idq.html Based on your suggestion, is it better to get a IDQ Dual 4 ohm and use 2 ch to feed it separately? Other than IDQ, what other 12" subs are suitable for SQ purposes, yet doesn't cout a bomb? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AutoS Neutral Newbie October 21, 2002 Share October 21, 2002 DVC is fine. Better to get 4ohm voice coil ones. Then U will have less configuration problems and easier to select suitable amp without having to pay a bomb. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolaba 1st Gear October 21, 2002 Share October 21, 2002 DVC is fine. Better to get 4ohm voice coil ones. Then U will have less configuration problems and easier to select suitable amp without having to pay a bomb. Hi AutoS, U mean getting SVC 4 ohms? Thanks in advance for ur advice Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AutoS Neutral Newbie October 21, 2002 Share October 21, 2002 SVC comes in 4ohms but most DVC's come W/ 2VC's each 4ohms. ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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