Valentino Neutral Newbie July 6, 2005 Share July 6, 2005 Hi, need some help b4 I go to the workshop to do anything... in case get chop like vegetable head... Here goes... 1) Car died on me the day b4... needed to jump start it... Car is working fine again... why? batt??? 2) Another thing is whenever i filter out, i usually drop gear and use engine brake instead of stepping on brake... but by doing this, sometimes the engine dies and i have to restart it when it's moving.... scary... Need the professional help i can get here. Thanks. ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clio Neutral Newbie July 6, 2005 Share July 6, 2005 your flywheel sensor Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentino Neutral Newbie July 6, 2005 Author Share July 6, 2005 ??? wat flywheel sensor??? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clio Neutral Newbie July 6, 2005 Share July 6, 2005 u cant get any help by asking. even mechanic also need to troubleshoot before they find the actual reason. just go to your regular mechanic and ask for advice. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeobh 4th Gear July 6, 2005 Share July 6, 2005 Yours is basically a electrical problem even though you managed to jump-start you car and it is doing "fine",I reckon that the battery is not in a very good shape even though your alternator many have manage to "pump" in sufficient electrons. When you do a engine brake, you are applying heavy demand and sudden load on the engine systems and that include the elcetrical system. Under heavy sudden load the spark plugs need to have very much higher KV to fire the cylinders - that means the battery should be in the position to supply.The engine is almost immediately cut-off indicates that the battery just don't have the sufficient electrcial power in store. Get the battery replace with a high AH/hr and check the alternator for output under heavy load. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentino Neutral Newbie July 6, 2005 Author Share July 6, 2005 (edited) Thanks a lot for ur valuable advice... At least i know what is happening now... Will be going down this sat to see what can be done... Roughly how much will a batt cost? Anyway, i drive a honda civic 1.5l eg model Edited July 6, 2005 by Valentino Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mivec9 1st Gear July 6, 2005 Share July 6, 2005 excellent analysis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fortress Clutched July 7, 2005 Share July 7, 2005 It sounds like there might be a couple of episodes, first is the battery, hence you need to jump start, if it is maintenance free and been used for 12 to 15 months, quite sure it is. You can use a multi tester, checking the voltage, if it is 12 volts and did not drop significantly, then it is not the battery but the Alternator (then in this case, the battery will be recharged there after you have sorted out the issue). Your second statement sounds like alternator, for that you can use a electronic contact cleaner to decarbonise it as a start to check. How old is your car..if it is 4 to 5 years then it sounds like alternator is carbonised. Ivan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seaweed 1st Gear July 7, 2005 Share July 7, 2005 Valentino ???!!! your car doing an Italian Opera??? ha ha....anyway...get it check at a reputated worhshop lor... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fortress Clutched July 7, 2005 Share July 7, 2005 Pardon me, when a car is running, it is the alternator that is supplying the electricity to the systems. Ivan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megalord Neutral Newbie July 7, 2005 Share July 7, 2005 There are times where the alternator doesn't supply enough current to support the spike in demand. So where do you think the additional supply comes from? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fortress Clutched July 7, 2005 Share July 7, 2005 (edited) You are right, about the snapped shot situation, hence, i believe the problem is on the alternator being carbonised or the modifications have been made to the car. With modifications, more power is needed and alternator has not been upgrade. Cars are designed with a specific charging onto the battery. Then what do you think is the problems. Ivan Edited July 7, 2005 by Fortress Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megalord Neutral Newbie July 7, 2005 Share July 7, 2005 (edited) Well, i strongly believe stock cars in situations can suck more juice than a new alternator can provide, less to talk about modified cars with batts not holding charge. @ certain occasions, my smallest car, a honda city(stock), headlight can constantly dim while doing some stuff as well which i won't share. The car was littat since new, and the charging is pefectly normal. My other rides do not face such problems, mainly due to their over sized alt and batts. This is when the batt comes into play isn't it? If the batt is holding charge as it should, then in temporary cases like this, the batt will supply the remaining power till it runs flat, which doesn't it sound like threadstarter's case? The car dun just stall when the alt cannot meet the power requirements, the batt will suply the remainder doesn't it? So what ya think? Edited July 7, 2005 by Megalord Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fortress Clutched July 7, 2005 Share July 7, 2005 (edited) Agree with your points, absolutely. I was refering to the guy who posted the thread, I was trying understand and learn from your perspective. "Well, i strongly believe stock cars in situations can suck more juice than a new alternator can provide", at least not in my few cars, just had a flat battery on my stock Octavia, drove 42 km to work....without a physical battery connected (knew it was failing, got a standby in office). Did the same in 2 Alfa 164 TSs, 3 Ferraris, and 1 Porsche, all stock except the 308 Gt, converted the webbers to fuel injections, but the alternator is modified Ivan Edited July 7, 2005 by Fortress Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Megalord Neutral Newbie July 7, 2005 Share July 7, 2005 Well, my Arnage had no such probs, so is the ES300. I only had such probs with the smaller cars for neighbourhood drives, like the city. Seems like all the older cars like 730i, S320, M quattroporte etc etc with bigger cc ratings do not suffer from it. Even my previous LS430 marks levison do not suffer from it. But all of them are loaded with oversized alternators and batts. Been testing with the city, thats why i deduced that a bigger amp will do such small cars good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fortress Clutched July 7, 2005 Share July 7, 2005 You are right....about the smaller cars. I have always use a higher rating in battery, for a few dollars more, it last longer, eg...55Ah is required, i use 62 or more (depending on the holder) then the battery will start loosing it AH...due to aging, then it will slowly lower it's AH, at least it still works for me till it goes below the requirement. Ivan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yeobh 4th Gear July 7, 2005 Share July 7, 2005 By just placing a volt meter across the battery terminals, without the engine running, you are just checking the battery's voltage at static, which can be misleading.Most of the time you are just taking the surface charge which is not the true reading.You will have to run the engine and allow the alternator to charge the battery and shut it down and proceed to take the reading. The true test of a battery is normally carried out by loading the battery - this can be done by cranking the engine and take note of the voltmeter reading - for a strong battery, the voltage will not drop below 9.5volt. If it does drop below 9.5 volt, the battery is near to retirement. Next is to run the engine and accelerate engine speed to 2,500 rpm then switch on the headlights on to high beam and all electrical comsumping accessories to max, including drepressing the hone and take note of the voltmeter reading - the reading should remain and not below 12.6volt. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fortress Clutched July 7, 2005 Share July 7, 2005 You are absolutely correct. Left out the statement "need to crank the car for a load test on the battery, if it does not go down too drastically". ↡ Advertisement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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