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Alternator


Hoppe
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One end of the cable is bolted on to the alternator "B" terminal and the other end to the battery positive terminal. The cable maybe heavy corrosed inside and therefore cause high resistance to the flow of electrons - for auto electrician they normall take volt drop reading from on end of the cable to the other end while the alternator is running. If the DC volt reading is more than 0.5 volt that means the cable is resitance is high and has to be replace.

Edited by Yeobh
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there is a belt that turns the alternation through a pulley attached to the alternator. eg, the pulley diameter is 10cm, then change it to about 8 cm, thus making the alternator runs a little faster. Hope I have clarify your query.

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Neutral Newbie

ok.... cool. so it's not wrong that they connect another cable to the battery lor. but the cable is a those rather thin type, way smaller than the original one. is it ok? will it melt? can it tahan? [:/]

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No problem , if I read it right what the mech is trying to do is to provide an altenrative route for the electrons to flow from alternator to battery. When the alternator is running at 2,500rpm it should produce 14.2 volt and by the time it reaches the battery the voltage will drop to 13.8volt due to the cable internal resistance to electrons flow. So if the existing cable produces very high resistance the voltage drop can be much higher than the aceeptable 0.5 volt. resulting in heat buit-up in the cable and lower voltage going into the battery therefore less electrons will be "push" into the battery plates. Overtime the battery will always be undercharged and with prolong use will cause serious damage to the battery plates resulting in sudden battery failure.

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Neutral Newbie

bro YEOBH, you can always answer a lot of my question and blurness.....

 

so in you opinion, should i go and get the cable change to a thicker one? now when i start car, it reads 14.0 to 14.1. then when moving, suka suka 13.5 then sometimes 13.9 or 14.0 (that under same driving condition)

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Hi Xtraun

 

today went down to simon there to check it out and it turns out its just like what stan said.. something to do with the air.

 

a vacuum intake that should have been plugged was opened. he also said the previous owner anyhow connect the piping and if have time go down again to re-do it. or can take a look at another swift and follow the same connections.

 

service was not bad.. n he nv charge me for the rubber plug and service [thumbsup]

 

like your if not spoil then don't change idea.. lolx

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Not necessary. The readings you mentioned are taken at the battery terminals,or via volt meter - they will not be able to show the true ouput form the alternator. Also the reading will fluctuate due to engine speed and load ( electrical demand from yr air con , ICE, etc) variation.

At battery terminal 13.9volt will be good enough.

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Thax for the compilment. What I have earlier explain are all basic auto electrical theory nothing special like rocket science.

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Neutral Newbie

the readings i mention are from my volt meter.

 

ok. so i dun have to go check and change the cable to a thicker one then lor. [:)] and with the knowledge you shared, i think i will just stick to what i have for now. i was very worry that the cable may not take it and burn and/or melt before.

 

Thanks bro Yeobh!!! [thumbsup]

Edited by FGY7022
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are you driving a swiftie too? i think they're friendly too.. but they don't seem very specialised with the swift. more of general repairs?

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great to hear u went down to simon and finally solved ur prob! So far think simon ok, as compared to my previous mech from sin ming.

 

Fast and good.

 

Agree....anything not spoilt, dun change..wink.gif

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they are more generalised repair/spare shop.

 

Octopus driving a corolla...and he's the one who recommend me to simon sunny.gif

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