Jump to content

Clutch problem


Sheltie2306
 Share

Recommended Posts

Don't wait too long, let me know i might be able to help

 

don't know, i feel quite bad actually because i am currently the only process guy here. the other one is still offshore. it won't be good if i leave now. i may wait for a little longer until my back to back colleague is back [:(]

Link to post
Share on other sites

does all manual cars like Vios, Sunny, Lancer etc.. haf this synchromesh?

 

welcome. synchromesh is standard on modern cars, even those >10 yrs old cars come with one. don't worry too much unless u are looking at 20 - 30 yrs old car [;)]

Link to post
Share on other sites

was studying that when i couldn't downshift at high speed on my lao pok car long back to find out why [laugh]

 

my grandpa was the first person to teach me the double clutching when i relate the downshifting problem to him [cool]

 

following his guide i researched into the techniques, found out the reason and at the same time learned about the heel and toe technique because they always come in pair in all info u can find. then i started using the two techniques and never had any problem downshifting anymore [thumbsup]

Link to post
Share on other sites

Edit: If you were downshifting what you can do is move from higher to neutral, blip the throttle and put in the lower gear. Works a treat all the time and increases the life of your syncros if there was no problem with your g/box (its basically done to allow the syncro for the lower gear to spin at a speed closer to that of the engine) .

 

that's the double clutching technique, it preserves the synchros nicely [nod][thumbsup]

 

I dunno man...

 

i always considered double cluthing to be depress> pull gear out> release> depress> put gear in> release.

 

As for this what i do is depress> pull to neutral> blip> push into gear> release.

 

I think the idea is the same, the first slows the faster syncro/gear to speed, the second speeds up the slower syncro/gear.

 

As for technical terms, dun ask me... i just know what to do, dunno what its called [laugh]

Link to post
Share on other sites

I meant the Beetle is more reliable

 

er.. oklar, i think most old cars are overdesigned and reliable, but not new cars [shakehead]

 

I agree, but not too old... i reckon the most cars between maybe 1980 to perhaps 1999 were the best built cars as heaps was spent on R&D (take toyotas and nissans over-engineered gearboxes and engines for eg). Afterthat, all the cost cutting to lower production costs simply resulted in poor cars.

 

On the same note, the cars from the 80's to 90's were designed to last a lot longer than current cars.

Link to post
Share on other sites

depress> pull to neutral> blip> push into gear> release

 

this one is the same as depress>blip>change gear>release

 

whether u push to neutral or not does not help the synchros [gossip]

 

why? let's look into detail:-

 

Method 1: depress>blip>change gear>release

 

1) before u depress the clutch,

engine (speed 1)

gear(speed 1)

drive shaft (speed 1)

 

2) after u depress clutch and blip,

engine (speed 2 because u blip)

gear (still speed 1 because it's detached from engine)

drive shaft (speed 1 connecting the gear)

 

3) then u change gear,

engine (speed 2)

gear (speed 2 where the speed picks up from speed 1 to speed 2 by synchromesh to match the drive shaft speed)

drive shaft (speed 1 but assuming the gear speed 2 is matching drive shaft speed 1)

 

4) release clutch and here u go,

engine (speed 2)

gear (speed 2)

drive shaft (speed 1)

assuming u are blipping the right rpm [thumbsup]

 

 

 

Method 2: depress>neutral>blip>change gear>release

 

1) before u depress the clutch,

engine (speed 1)

gear(speed 1)

drive shaft (speed 1)

 

2) after u depress clutch and shift to neutral and blip,

engine (speed 2 because u blip)

gear (speed 3 - neither speed 1 nor speed 2 because it's connected to neither engine nor drive shaft)

drive shaft (speed 1 following the wheel speed)

 

3) then u change gear,

engine (speed 2)

gear (speed 2 same case where the speed picks up from speed 3 to speed 2 by synchromesh to follow the drive shaft speed)

drive shaft (speed 1 but assuming the gear speed 2 is matching drive shaft speed 1)

 

4) release clutch and here u go,

engine (speed 2)

gear (speed 2)

drive shaft (speed 1)

 

 

 

Method 3: clutch in>neutral>clutch out>blip>clutch in>change gear>clutch out

 

1) before u depress the clutch,

engine (speed 1)

gear(speed 1)

drive shaft (speed 1)

 

2) after u clutch in>neutral>clutch out>blip

engine (speed 2)

gear (speed 2 - because it's connected to engine now when the clutch is released! and note that speed is picked up by the clutch itself without going through synchromesh)

 

3) clutch in>change gear

engine (speed 2)

gear (speed 2 which fit perfectly to the drive shaft of speed 1!)

drive shaft (speed 1)

 

4) 4) release clutch and here u go,

engine (speed 2)

gear (speed 2)

drive shaft (speed 1)

 

 

NOTE: ONLY the double clutching method can preserve the synchromesh and help smoothen the gear change because it'll bring the gear speed to match the drive shaft speed before u engage the gear [thumbsup]

Edited by En0203
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm using Method 1, which I learnt from MCF.thumbsup.gif It gives a smoother down shifting, useful when filtering out from the expressway to a normal road. Engine doesn't sounds so loud if using this method to downshift.nod.gif

Link to post
Share on other sites

yea, u need only method 1 in new cars [nod][thumbsup]

 

in method 1, u increase the engine speed to match the drive shaft speed which is why the clutch out is smoother [nod][thumbsup]

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...