Engine dies during cornering

[Application9999]

I also want clock post...may be got prize to clock higher ...is TS car a transformer? can restart by itself..? something very weird indeed...

[Kusje]

In a manual car, if the car is in gear and the car is in motion, release the clutch pedal is sufficient to start the car back. This is the same as pushing start a car. Engage gear, step on clutch, push car, release clutch, car started.

 

Well, I'm not really sure how the engine works but don't you need the spark for the ignition?

[Ryanyusoff]

thank u so much for your inputs bros..i've checked with the mechanic and luckily everytin is fine.he said that unluckily the timing of my aircon compressor cuts in is when i'm clutching in.therefore that is wat taxes the power most when it is at the least power.

I meant,that it is a heng suay thing that at that SUAY point,there is a small electrical glitch in the electronics that causes it(like sometimes even our hp might restart for no reason).coz it's not a recurrent problem.it's just a first and single incident.

he said that it's not a problem unless if it's a recurring thing.there's quite a number of cars who got experience the same problem too.btw,my swift is PI.

anyway,just came back from Batu Pahat.whacked up to 150km/h+ and tried maintaining the speed and tried different speeds.no problems faced.

Thanks bros!

Edited April 18, 2009 by Ryanyusoff

[Teriyaki]

TS,

 

Check your fuel pump... It happened to my friends cars as well.. But theirs are modded cars... It has something got to do with tuning.. RPM too low.. below 400

[Icekitten]

I don't know about Swift, but for Mitsu cars, there's this idle motor in the TB which regulates rpm.

 

What happens when this motor is faulty, is that rpm tends to dip too low when clutching in during low speeds, causing shuddering and sometimes the engine just stalls. This problem is mostly evident when A/C is on especially when the compressor kicks in. The motor is supposed to help compensate for the loss in power when the compressor kicks in.

 

So situations like stop-and-go traffic in jam situations, or even turning at low speeds, when clutch in, or like when parking, the engine stalls. And yep, during turning when it stalls can feel the power steering shut off. So gotta hold steering tight and quickly crank.

 

BUT the engine doesn't restart itself once it stalls. Not unless it has not totally stalled, can see CEL flicker, then rpm goes back up. I had to restart the engine quickly each time it stalled. One reason I can think of for ur auto-restarting of engine is tt ur speed should've been pretty high since you were at 4th or 5th gear? The car is still moving quickly and somehow it's like pushing ur engine to start.

 

It's supposedly a wear-and-tear problem, not exclusive to Mitsu. But not sure if it applies to Suzuki. You may like to ask ur mech.

 

 

[Icekitten]

Btw, for the motor problem...

 

If it really is a motor problem, it will get progressively worse and you will probably encounter problems more often.

 

Myself, initially it was only occasional stalling. Then it got more and more often. Until each time I clutched in during stop-and-go traffic, confirm would stall. I had to quickly tap my accelerator to bring the rpm up. Had to drive without a/c otherwise the stalling was bad. Then sometimes even driving w/o a/c, it stalled occasionally while turning at low speeds or parking.

 

All these while I didn't know what the problem was. Mech at workshops didn't know too. Some suggestions were tuning problems, which I didn't think it was because I had my ride re-tuned before. Others said throttle body dirty. I removed it for cleaning and it still came back. Mechs couldn't solve the problem except to crank the idling higher, which I thought wasn't solving the problem at all. Until I went to do some research and reading on the net and found some info in foreign forums which mentioned the motor. Consulted a workshop, a knowledgeable mech said that could be the cause.

 

When I changed the motor all problems were solved.

 

For faulty fuel pump, usually the symptoms will be difficulty in cranking to start the engine. Esp when fuel level is low and you're doing a cold start. Gotta pump the accelerator pedal while cranking to start the engine.

[Unfazed]

I don't know about Swift, but for Mitsu cars, there's this idle motor in the TB which regulates rpm.

 

What happens when this motor is faulty, is that rpm tends to dip too low when clutching in during low speeds, causing shuddering and sometimes the engine just stalls. This problem is mostly evident when A/C is on especially when the compressor kicks in. The motor is supposed to help compensate for the loss in power when the compressor kicks in.

 

So situations like stop-and-go traffic in jam situations, or even turning at low speeds, when clutch in, or like when parking, the engine stalls. And yep, during turning when it stalls can feel the power steering shut off. So gotta hold steering tight and quickly crank.

 

BUT the engine doesn't restart itself once it stalls. Not unless it has not totally stalled, can see CEL flicker, then rpm goes back up. I had to restart the engine quickly each time it stalled. One reason I can think of for ur auto-restarting of engine is tt ur speed should've been pretty high since you were at 4th or 5th gear? The car is still moving quickly and somehow it's like pushing ur engine to start.

 

It's supposedly a wear-and-tear problem, not exclusive to Mitsu. But not sure if it applies to Suzuki. You may like to ask ur mech.

I had the same encounter as yours, mine's a wira using old lancer engine, which batch? I dunno the engine series number thou. But it's the model that army is using as GP car last time, the headlight abit cat-eye.

[Icekitten]

Yep.

 

It's quite a common wear-and-tear issue, not exclusive to Mitsu or to any particular engine, but yet not many mechs know of this issue, or troubleshoot idling problems with this. Some mechs don't even know the existence of such a motor in the throttle body.

 

Possibly it's easier to just crank idling higher to mask the problem and prevent stalling.

 

And also I suppose there's no direct way to actually pinpointing this as the problem. It could be a dirty TB, but if it's a dirty TB, once cleaned, the problem shouldn't exist anymore. Probably mechs have to go thru many steps to ensure that the motor is the cause of the idling problems and not anything else. If not, if they ask the customer to change the motor, and ended up it's something else, the customer will surely make noise for paying a few hundred bucks for nothing, and the workshop will make a loss too. Easiest way is to just say they don't know and pls go back to AD service centre.

 

Btw, even C&C service centre cannot pinpoint the motor as the problem. Some guys in Lancer Club have encountered this. For one of them, after several trips to workshops & service centre, in the end his problem was solved only when C&C changed the whole throttle body for him, which is actually unnecessary la. Just need to change that motor.

[Icekitten]

TS,

 

Check your fuel pump... It happened to my friends cars as well.. But theirs are modded cars... It has something got to do with tuning.. RPM too low.. below 400

 

 

For modded cars, the idling motor has a tendency to conk out easily. Not sure why. Heard this from my mech. And for modded cars, stalling and rough idling may be due to other stuff like yep, tuning.

 

But for modded cars, they have other ways to solve the issue. Good mechs should know.

[Ryanyusoff]

thanks icekitten..that is very informative..really appreciate it..

[Darkblue]

But usually TB dirty is due to aftermarket air filters, which is user induced problem

 

To reduce the likelihood of this problem, Mitsubishi included a thicker air-filter in the FL version of the Lancer CS3

[Icekitten]

Nope. Some of those who reported experiencing this issue are totally stock.

 

And a thicker air filter will only probably help in maintaining a cleaner TB. But it's not directly related to the issue of the idling motor. It's just that erratic idling and occasional stalling may also be caused by a dirty TB, in which case once the TB is cleaned, the issue should not be present anymore. But if it's due to the faulty idling motor, the erratic idling and stalling still happens even if TB is cleaned.

 

Anyway, it's not a defect. It's a wear-and-tear issue. The cars who kena are all usually reaching or reached 3 yrs at least. Just like over time engines start to get tappet noise, the ticking taxi engine sound. Normal la, at some point of time, some stuff is bound to have to be replaced every now and then. That's what servicing checks are for. I doubt engines are meant to be replacement-free for 10 yrs.

 

If you do a search on google, you'll find that the idling motor (isc/iac motor) becomes faulty in other makes too.

[Icekitten]

Why I related the idling motor thingie to TS' case is because he mentioned the kicking in of the a/c compressor. If the stalling is due to inadequate power during the kicking in of the a/c compressor, then possibly that motor or it's equivalent in the Swift engine is not doing its job to compensate for the power loss when the compressor kicks in.

 

Anyway, he said so far it hasn't happened again, then I suppose there is no way to test if the motor is spoiling or not. Not until the problem becomes increasingly recurrent and impossible to ignore.

[Darkblue]

Thanks sis

 

btw, if don't go C&C... can Lancer go outside workshop replace this motor ?

[Wrc206]

Can try get AD to update software for ECU. Could be fuel pump oso. I had this problem and its very dangerous.

[Icekitten]

Can.

 

Mine was replaced outside with a 2nd-hand motor sourced by my mech from JB.

 

But I went to enquire before, those parts stockists also have it. They call it Servo Assembly for the CS3 Lancer at least. When I enquired, it was about $240 I think.

 

But some SLC bro got it at $270 including GST I think. He also bought and replaced it outside.

 

I posted the part no. for the CS3 Lancer in SLC, not too sure about the part no. for other engines.

 

C&C ah, they don't seem to know the exact problem as one of the SLC bros experienced. They will probably change the whole TB. If under warranty and FOC, nvm la but new TB costs about $700+ I think. So those whose warranty is finished, and C&C changes the whole TB to solve their issue, then they kena dok liao.