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Time for ATF Change


Micb
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No la bro, they are only freelance mechanics there.

Don't have so much sophisticated machines or devices for them to do till so neat and nice.

The way they flush out the ATF and refill, i am ok with it and they will engage the gear into D mode to ensure that the ATF is flowing nicely plus i got an ATF cooler installed.

Just like engine oil change, most WS just drain out the used EO but surely there are still stains or bit of leftover EO in the engine.

Then they top up the new EO into the engine, so same logic to me but at least 95% of the ATF/EO is new so not too concerned over it :)

 

 

Ok so ty used e drain n fill. This changes abt half of e atf in yr autobox.

 

I also use this method now. If i find my atf dirty i drain n fill then drive for a bit then drain n fill again. Once i see e colour of e atf drained out as a light red colour i know its all done.

 

Or u just do a drain n fill at every 10k km oil service. After a few times e colour sud b nice cherry colour.

 

Then u can do it every 20-30k km thereafter just to maintain fresh clean atf in yr autobox.

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No la bro, they are only freelance mechanics there.

Don't have so much sophisticated machines or devices for them to do till so neat and nice.

The way they flush out the ATF and refill, i am ok with it and they will engage the gear into D mode to ensure that the ATF is flowing nicely plus i got an ATF cooler installed.

Just like engine oil change, most WS just drain out the used EO but surely there are still stains or bit of leftover EO in the engine.

Then they top up the new EO into the engine, so same logic to me but at least 95% of the ATF/EO is new so not too concerned over it :)

 

 

Never run e engine when u drain e atf. U cud end up burning e clutch plates n thats a very expensive overhaul.

 

Also never overfill yr atf. Its as bad as underfilling.

 

I always fill a bit low n drive home abt 30mins then chk n top-up to e exact level. Best to chk when its hot fr accurate reading.

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Never run e engine when u drain e atf. U cud end up burning e clutch plates n thats a very expensive overhaul.

 

Also never overfill yr atf. Its as bad as underfilling.

 

I always fill a bit low n drive home abt 30mins then chk n top-up to e exact level. Best to chk when its hot fr accurate reading.

 

I also curious how they put in D and drain ATF at the same time ?

Very dangerous, if no fluid gets to the trans in time.

 

Who gets to get any repair bills ?

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I also curious how they put in D and drain ATF at the same time ?

Very dangerous, if no fluid gets to the trans in time.

 

Who gets to get any repair bills ?

 

Just to clarify, its after they finished draining the ATF then they start engine and put to D for ATF to circulate to ensure ATF will be top up to level :)

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Ok so ty used e drain n fill. This changes abt half of e atf in yr autobox.

 

I also use this method now. If i find my atf dirty i drain n fill then drive for a bit then drain n fill again. Once i see e colour of e atf drained out as a light red colour i know its all done.

 

Or u just do a drain n fill at every 10k km oil service. After a few times e colour sud b nice cherry colour.

 

Then u can do it every 20-30k km thereafter just to maintain fresh clean atf in yr autobox.

 

Noted on the good advice :)

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I also curious how they put in D and drain ATF at the same time ?

Very dangerous, if no fluid gets to the trans in time.

 

Who gets to get any repair bills ?

 

 

The main problem is e clutch plates which r like fiber wh like a paper lining. U damage e paper lining n u get jerky shifts.

 

Just drain wh engine off n fill n run to chk level.

 

If ty use e machine then e engine is running as e machine wil control e amt of atf in e system.

 

It wil cycle fm drain to fill a couple of times till e mech see e colour of atf going in n coming out abt e same colour. Then e job has been done. Usually wil use abt 18lit of atf a time.

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