Brakes

[Yuan]

i have said this before and prolly i will say it again.

 

big brake kit with more pistons doesnt just reduce the stopping distance. infact it

provides much better modulation and brake control over stock brake kits.

 

many claimed its not necessary . but i would rather say , you if can AFFORD it , and even

if you enjoy occasional spirited driving or sprints , then you deserve a set of good brake kit.

if you do track , then the more you should get a set of decent brake kit.

 

there are some who commented about whatever brake bias of front and rear .just get a set of

matching rear brakekit from the same brand. eg brembo GT front rear/pmu front rear/ ap racing 6/4

or even tarox 12/10 then no more excuses !

 

 

getting a set of good steel braided hose can set you back above $250.

decent high temp tolerance brake pads for the front andrear , another 700-800.

rotors? you are looking at over 1k for front and rear if quality and reliability are what you sought after.

 

for these amt of money added together , why not top up and get a set of decent bbk ?you

get all of the above , plus better modulation , better stopping power and definately nicer looking calipers.

 

this is a general car forum afterall .you will get all sorts of replies. and definately some will say things

about "ricer" , poser car with bbk or stuff like that.but end of the day it is about how you drive ,

and how much you value your life. many who upgraded their brake kits will swear by them .

whereas many others who

1)need to spend their hard earn money on other commitments in life

2)some who simply can't be bothered

3)never used or experienced how "value for money" a set of good brake kit

 

will advise you not to get it .

but imho , i can only say " eh brudder .. brakes leh..you wanna compromise ah ?"

so ultimately its your choice.

 

just my 2 cents.

 

Very well said.

[Good-Carbuyer]

Very well said.

 

One previous car of mine had weaker brakes by design, as the manufacturer's dedication was towards road adhersion for fast conrnering, not braking. I had to live with it or spend a bomb on modification to its sports model equivalent

[S-gt]

My workshop does SSBH at 120, inc brake fluid bleed. PM me

Very keen. SSBH what brand, labour ? and dot 5.1 incl

[Yuan]

One previous car of mine had weaker brakes by design, as the manufacturer's dedication was towards road adhersion for fast conrnering, not braking. I had to live with it or spend a bomb on modification to its sports model equivalent

 

So stock is not the best afterall?

[Good-Carbuyer]

So stock is not the best afterall?

 

Designer well known for racing car designs, not really family hatchback (1.0L car can overtake 2.5L cars much easier than the AD staff believe (they took photographs for record or something like that)

[C32b]

i have said this before and prolly i will say it again.

 

big brake kit with more pistons doesnt just reduce the stopping distance. infact it

provides much better modulation and brake control over stock brake kits.

 

many claimed its not necessary . but i would rather say , you if can AFFORD it , and even

if you enjoy occasional spirited driving or sprints , then you deserve a set of good brake kit.

if you do track , then the more you should get a set of decent brake kit.

 

there are some who commented about whatever brake bias of front and rear .just get a set of

matching rear brakekit from the same brand. eg brembo GT front rear/pmu front rear/ ap racing 6/4

or even tarox 12/10 then no more excuses !

 

 

getting a set of good steel braided hose can set you back above $250.

decent high temp tolerance brake pads for the front andrear , another 700-800.

rotors? you are looking at over 1k for front and rear if quality and reliability are what you sought after.

 

for these amt of money added together , why not top up and get a set of decent bbk ?you

get all of the above , plus better modulation , better stopping power and definately nicer looking calipers.

 

this is a general car forum afterall .you will get all sorts of replies. and definately some will say things

about "ricer" , poser car with bbk or stuff like that.but end of the day it is about how you drive ,

and how much you value your life. many who upgraded their brake kits will swear by them .

whereas many others who

1)need to spend their hard earn money on other commitments in life

2)some who simply can't be bothered

3)never used or experienced how "value for money" a set of good brake kit

 

will advise you not to get it .

but imho , i can only say " eh brudder .. brakes leh..you wanna compromise ah ?"

so ultimately its your choice.

 

just my 2 cents.

 

for discussion purely.

 

1. fact: a big brake kit doesnt necessarily reduce the stopping distance. In some cases it lengthens it. However, you are right about modulation.

 

2. Affordability is relative. We don't know what the thread starter's budget is so maybe he has extra cash to splash on a big brake kit or maybe he is looking for cheaper alternatives.

 

3. Hoses would be about 200 like u say. Good pads can be gotten at 400+ for front and rear. Heatsoak management modifications for about 600 for front and rear (only necessary for the serious trackie). So 1200~1300 for the total. Still cheaper than the 6500 for a wrx 4/2 pot AP racing setup or 3000 for just a front JBT brake kit. Running costs will be much lower as OEM discs can be used. It's good to sometimes look at the total cost to take into consideration and the performance it delivers.

 

I don't know if the thread starter is seeking to buy the best in order to win races but in the event he isn't and has a limited budget, its good to know that there are alot of options to upgrade which give possibly similar performance approaching that of a big brake kit.

 

I've know many folks who have tracked with stock brakes and had no issue of brake mechanism failure even when their stock setup is of the single sliding caliper type. Most of the issues of brake failure tend to come from heatsoak to the pads/caliper, rotor warping or boiling of brake fluid (all of which originate from excess heat overwhelming the brake system and are present to some degree even when a big brake kit is used) so targeted solutions to fix these issue may prove more effective.

 

I personally cant afford a big brake kit so I guess I decided to look for some options.

Edited August 25, 2010 by C32b

[Kangadrool]

Your stock brakes set up is more than enough for normal driving.

Practice taper braking and feels the difference.

 

If you don't know what is taper braking, do a google search to find out what it is.

 

You mean progressive braking?

 

Most motorcyclists would know, but doubt those in 4 wheelers.

 

It actually works quite well except human when in state of shock tends to jam the brake too hard.

Edited August 25, 2010 by Kangadrool

[Yeobh]

If you jam very hard yr ABS will do the progressive braking - that's what ABS is for - to overcome human activated braking error

[C32b]

You mean progressive braking?

 

Most motorcyclists would know, but doubt those in 4 wheelers.

 

It actually works quite well except human when in state of shock tends to jam the brake too hard.

 

it is known as cadence braking for cars and has been superseded by ABS as per the article. A good ABS will do the job better than a human can.

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadence_braking