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How to choose a car?


Buyingacar
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Neutral Newbie
(edited)

It's not listed in SGcarmart bcos power/weight of a car is not a factor when in comes to cost. the FC of the car doesn't determine the value/price of the car too.

SGcarmart only list things that would determind the resale value of the car. That's why they only put important things like mileage, transmission, reg date, etc.

 

Transmission: Auto cars is in trend and will always fetch a higher price

Reg Date: Self-explantory, the age of the car determine the value and how much year left for scrap

Engine cap: determine the road tax structure and probably the insurance price

Mileage: This is very impt when buying 2nd-hand cars, a newer car with high mileage may be more chui than a older car but with lower mileage. Also to take into consideration the current mileage of the car, if the mileage is near to 40k, 80k or 100k it means a major servicing may be due soon and you may need to factor in the extra bill for that after spending so much on the car, work out your math first.

 

Usually the BHP and Kerb Weight can be found online, power-to-weight must be calculated as many tech spec don't offer, it's also the most overlooked cos manufacturers wouldn't want to give the impression they are selling underpowered cars. You can ask the owner but they can be wrong or misinformed too. IF you are checking online make sure it's for the model you are looking for (eg. 2004 Vios and 2008 Vios are different) Also, some specs are for UK, US or Japan market and may differ for SG market, try looking for specs released by the dealers themselves.

 

Places like sgcarmart don't specify cos some cars might be modified and the power/weight would not be the same. For 2nd-hand car I'd suggest you get one that is in it's original form (AKA the slang "Stock") as some modified cars are known to give problems if you do not know what was done and how to maintain it.

 

Last but not least, I have to disclaim myself as I've never bought a 2nd-hand myself, just giving honest advise that I know. As for the financial part you have to figure it out yourself or get help from who who are more experience in this portion. Do check online on tips and tricks on what to look out on a 2nd-hand car besides what we have discussed.

 

Thanks for the advice.

Why 40k, 80k and 100k?

Is it a recommended range of every 40k until 100k, then it becomes more frequent?

Besides requesting for the "stock", I should find an external party to verify the "stock" right?

 

Btw why is there a range for kerb weight?

And most cars sold in SG are assembled in Asia?

Edited by Buyingacar
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If I have a budget in mind and am considering a Jap 4 seater, what should I take into account when choosing a car?

 

Sorry I don't know alot about cars.

 

Thanks in advance.

You need to allow us more information. Example:-

No mention what is the purpose of considering the a

No mention why you considering a Jap 4-seater car

No mention where you likely to use the car

No mention how you intend to use the car

No mention which range of models you prefer

Unlikely we can give much useful inputs

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Neutral Newbie

You need to allow us more information. Example:-

No mention what is the purpose of considering the a

No mention why you considering a Jap 4-seater car

No mention where you likely to use the car

No mention how you intend to use the car

No mention which range of models you prefer

Unlikely we can give much useful inputs

 

Considering the a?

Jap - easy to maintain

4 seater - my family has 4 members

Where I will use the car - driving (occasionally) to and fro from work (but not everyday, maybe 2-4 times total per week), social/ transportation purposes

Since I won't be the only one using the car,the car will probably be in use at least half the week

Range of models - I don't know alot about cars, so I guess no preference for this

Am considering a used car, around 2005

 

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I fully agree with not buying a car on impulse. I did it for my very first ride, without really considering my actual needs. Ended up switching to another car about a month or so later haha. However, I have a feeling you ain't an impulse buyer.

 

Back to topic though, I would like to think a Honda Jazz/Fit might actually suit your needs pretty well. Its a hatch, sure, but the rear passenger seats can be folded down to create more room for luggage etc should the need arise. Its a 1.3L (not sure if the 1.5L ver is available yet), but it provides enough power for day to day normal driving styles unless you're the kind that needs to floor the pedal every now and then. FC (Fuel consumption), is pretty good too.

 

However, as many others have also suggested, it'd be best if you could narrow down your choices so we may provide better advice in any way we can. Have a good day, and happy hunting!

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Turbocharged

Thanks for the advice.

Why 40k, 80k and 100k?

Is it a recommended range of every 40k until 100k, then it becomes more frequent?

Besides requesting for the "stock", I should find an external party to verify the "stock" right?

 

Btw why is there a range for kerb weight?

And most cars sold in SG are assembled in Asia?

 

Servicing is part of a car ownership. It's needed due to wear and tear.

Most (japanese) car's servicing interval is 10k mileage. so most car need to send for servicing every 10k, 20k, 30, etc (or every half a year if your usage mileage is low, for me I usually follow the mileage)

 

there are 2 kind of servicing, the normal servicing and major servicing.

 

Normal servicing - change engine oil and top up various fluids, filters, basic checks and adjustments - such minor servicing may cost around 100+ (for most jap cars) depending what was replacement/changed.

Major servicing - changing or replacing some of the parts of the car due to wear and tear, from sparkplugs to ATF to timing belt. May cost 300+ up to almost a grand (for most jap cars) depending on what was replaced/changed and the kind of car you drive.

 

There are misc stuff to take note on car ownership besides pumping fuel:

- Car battery, make sure the workshop checks it during servicing

- Brake pads

- Tyres, before you buy the car, check that the tyres are still newer and it's advisable that all tyres are same brand/model. If not make sure at least the 2 front and 2 back pairs are same brand/model.

- remember your servicing. you may delay the servicing up 2-3k mileage but pls send ASAP to ensure troublefree operation.

 

 

DO checking with the dealer the servicing internals of the car and which servicing internal is considered "major". Some car major is 40k, 80k, 100k, some is 30k, 60k, 90k, check with dealer. Even the price of these intervals of major servicing differ. usually the 80k is more expensive than the 40k and 100k.

 

 

You may get someone who knows cars to help you check if the car is stock, but sometimes the car may be modded and then reverted back to stock before selling, some did a job so good you cannot see the differences. For modded car, the tell tale signs are that the car looks lower than the rest, the exhaust looks bigger. You can check the engine bay too. For modded cars usually the engine is full of bling and color metal parts, a stock engine bay is dull and usually black.

 

29032009085.jpg

Example of a modded engine bay with a bolt-on turbo - putting a turbo on a non-turbo car is highly illegal in singapore.

 

6934120011_large.jpg

Example of a stock engine bay

 

Don't worry about kerb weight.

 

Most Japanese car sold here are either from Japan/Thailand or SE countries.

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Considering the a?

Jap - easy to maintain

4 seater - my family has 4 members

Where I will use the car - driving (occasionally) to and fro from work (but not everyday, maybe 2-4 times total per week), social/ transportation purposes

Since I won't be the only one using the car,the car will probably be in use at least half the week

Range of models - I don't know alot about cars, so I guess no preference for this

Am considering a used car, around 2005

It seems Axio got good FC. A good one for 4 well built adults. However, you may want to consider hatchback if not all seated in the car often and nothing to carry in the boot.

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Servicing is part of a car ownership. It's needed due to wear and tear.

Most (japanese) car's servicing interval is 10k mileage. so most car need to send for servicing every 10k, 20k, 30, etc (or every half a year if your usage mileage is low, for me I usually follow the mileage)

 

there are 2 kind of servicing, the normal servicing and major servicing.

 

Normal servicing - change engine oil and top up various fluids, filters, basic checks and adjustments - such minor servicing may cost around 100+ (for most jap cars) depending what was replacement/changed.

Major servicing - changing or replacing some of the parts of the car due to wear and tear, from sparkplugs to ATF to timing belt. May cost 300+ up to almost a grand (for most jap cars) depending on what was replaced/changed and the kind of car you drive.

 

There are misc stuff to take note on car ownership besides pumping fuel:

- Car battery, make sure the workshop checks it during servicing

- Brake pads

- Tyres, before you buy the car, check that the tyres are still newer and it's advisable that all tyres are same brand/model. If not make sure at least the 2 front and 2 back pairs are same brand/model.

- remember your servicing. you may delay the servicing up 2-3k mileage but pls send ASAP to ensure troublefree operation.

 

 

DO checking with the dealer the servicing internals of the car and which servicing internal is considered "major". Some car major is 40k, 80k, 100k, some is 30k, 60k, 90k, check with dealer. Even the price of these intervals of major servicing differ. usually the 80k is more expensive than the 40k and 100k.

 

 

You may get someone who knows cars to help you check if the car is stock, but sometimes the car may be modded and then reverted back to stock before selling, some did a job so good you cannot see the differences. For modded car, the tell tale signs are that the car looks lower than the rest, the exhaust looks bigger. You can check the engine bay too. For modded cars usually the engine is full of bling and color metal parts, a stock engine bay is dull and usually black.

 

 

Example of a modded engine bay with a bolt-on turbo - putting a turbo on a non-turbo car is highly illegal in singapore.

 

 

Example of a stock engine bay

 

Don't worry about kerb weight.

 

Most Japanese car sold here are either from Japan/Thailand or SE countries.

 

Question:

 

How much does bolting on a turbo like this costs? And what are the negative impacts? Understand that Turbo might case cylinder pitting if you push too hard, etc?

 

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Neutral Newbie

An underated car which shares the same engine as the Toyota Vios is the Daihatsu Sirion.

 

If you look under the wing mirror of the Sirion, you will see the word TOYOTA.

 

Look harder and you will notice the exterior door handles of the Sirion is similar to the Vios and Corolla.

 

The best part is the Sirion comes with 4 air bags (2 front, 2 side) & NCAP 4 star rating, yet costs considerably less to buy than the Thai assembled Vios, and is made in Japan and its rear leg room is more spacious than the Vios despite a 70mm shorter wheelbase.

 

If you could make do with a smaller boot, the Sirion, which is essentially a rebadged Toyota, is worth considering.

 

Yup you are right cause i am driving one. Haha. Actually the 3SZ-VE(Sirion) engine is almost the same as the 1NZ-FE(Vios) variant except one is cast iron the latter is aluminium. And yes is much spacious than a Vios at the rear except a smaller boot but the rear seats are foldable so can store huge stuffs at the back. And with a 1.5 engine used to drive bigger rides like Materia and Avanza, this hatch is zippy enough

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Neutral Newbie

engine CC?

In the 80s, a 1500cc (1.5l) engine is considered mid/higher size engine.

In current times, a 1.5l engine is considered lower/mid size range engine.

 

 

Power? If by spec the power of the car is usually measured by BHP (brake horsepower) or KW (kilowatts). But power alone is not enough, the weight of the car also determines if the given power of engine can move the car with ease.

That is call the "power to weight ratio" (bhp/tonne) .

 

formula:

 

(bhp/tonne) = (1000 / Kerb weight of car in kg) x (bhp of car)

 

 

Also, there are things to remember for engine size:

 

- the bigger the CC, the more fuel it drinks

- the higher the power, the more fuel it drinks

 

However, if the car is very heavy with a smaller/weaker engine it would end up working harder and thus drinking more fuel than a bigger/more powerful engine but lighter car.

 

How powerful is powerful? Very hard to tell you it depends on individual. For me I won't get anything lesser than 100bhp/tonne. For most singapore drivers they are quite happy with anything between 80 to 90bhp/tonne.

 

 

BTW you got any preference in Hatch or Sedan? Else the Sirion is a good hatch worth considering. You can look at the older Honda Jazz too which has very good FC (better than vios) but much weaker engine.

 

To me, Vios is the best balanced in terms of Power and FC. Other cars like the Lancer GLX/Altis are slightly weaker and slight lower FC than the vios but has better ride comfort and bigger in size.

 

Actually Jazz is a good choice, is in one of my shortlisted cars. But the price and the Honda' CVT startup clucth issue made me choose Sirion instead,

 

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u say mazda until so good.

 

but why were they the first to go down in this high coe era?

Vios Accident at Singapore Flyer.

From the "4 pages" I created, I will give the pros & cons of my impression of the line up:

 

Corolla

Good for daily drive as everything seems to be bullet proof however, just too common as it serve pt A to pt B.

Supply is plenty as the demand is high but it cannot justify for me to pay so high for this BB car...

 

Vios

Similar with Corolla only smaller version. Total running cost can be lowered by

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Yo bro,

 

if im not wrong the vw passat u viewing has been bought already. that is a old model passat which has a relatively high parf and low depreciation ( for conti cars)

good choice on choosing on that cars, pardon for my late replies been working thru the weekends.

 

go for 2005 cars. parf at 2015.

 

Prediction: 2015 coe will drop by 15-20k at least. thats the time to get a new car. weeeee!~

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I forgot to add in details on how to choose a car.

 

First, Price.

Second, nego or not.

Third n most impt, CONDITION.

 

you have to vet the vehicle, at least you need to know or check that the engine is not over rattling nor there is any damage on the main frame of the car.

 

If u really need to know how to see the main frame pm me.

 

i will try my best to provide pics for you to understand.

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Neutral Newbie
(edited)

Vios Accident at Singapore Flyer.

From the "4 pages" I created, I will give the pros & cons of my impression of the line up:

 

Corolla

Good for daily drive as everything seems to be bullet proof however, just too common as it serve pt A to pt B.

Supply is plenty as the demand is high but it cannot justify for me to pay so high for this BB car...

 

Vios

Similar with Corolla only smaller version. Total running cost can be lowered by

Edited by Buyingacar
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Neutral Newbie

Servicing is part of a car ownership. It's needed due to wear and tear.

Most (japanese) car's servicing interval is 10k mileage. so most car need to send for servicing every 10k, 20k, 30, etc (or every half a year if your usage mileage is low, for me I usually follow the mileage)

 

there are 2 kind of servicing, the normal servicing and major servicing.

 

Normal servicing - change engine oil and top up various fluids, filters, basic checks and adjustments - such minor servicing may cost around 100+ (for most jap cars) depending what was replacement/changed.

Major servicing - changing or replacing some of the parts of the car due to wear and tear, from sparkplugs to ATF to timing belt. May cost 300+ up to almost a grand (for most jap cars) depending on what was replaced/changed and the kind of car you drive.

 

There are misc stuff to take note on car ownership besides pumping fuel:

- Car battery, make sure the workshop checks it during servicing

- Brake pads

- Tyres, before you buy the car, check that the tyres are still newer and it's advisable that all tyres are same brand/model. If not make sure at least the 2 front and 2 back pairs are same brand/model.

- remember your servicing. you may delay the servicing up 2-3k mileage but pls send ASAP to ensure troublefree operation.

 

 

DO checking with the dealer the servicing internals of the car and which servicing internal is considered "major". Some car major is 40k, 80k, 100k, some is 30k, 60k, 90k, check with dealer. Even the price of these intervals of major servicing differ. usually the 80k is more expensive than the 40k and 100k.

 

 

You may get someone who knows cars to help you check if the car is stock, but sometimes the car may be modded and then reverted back to stock before selling, some did a job so good you cannot see the differences. For modded car, the tell tale signs are that the car looks lower than the rest, the exhaust looks bigger. You can check the engine bay too. For modded cars usually the engine is full of bling and color metal parts, a stock engine bay is dull and usually black.

 

 

Example of a modded engine bay with a bolt-on turbo - putting a turbo on a non-turbo car is highly illegal in singapore.

 

 

Example of a stock engine bay

 

Don't worry about kerb weight.

 

Most Japanese car sold here are either from Japan/Thailand or SE countries.

 

Its best to go to a workshop that services specifically the car of my make/ model eg Toyota cars

or any workshop will suffice?

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Neutral Newbie
(edited)

Yo bro,

 

if im not wrong the vw passat u viewing has been bought already. that is a old model passat which has a relatively high parf and low depreciation ( for conti cars)

good choice on choosing on that cars, pardon for my late replies been working thru the weekends.

 

go for 2005 cars. parf at 2015.

 

Prediction: 2015 coe will drop by 15-20k at least. thats the time to get a new car. weeeee!~

 

I checked and it's still available

It caught my eye cos its cheaper than expected

Any comment on the Suzuki legacy?

Edited by Buyingacar
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Wow this is a truckload of info.

1) What's bad about a car being too light to drive ard?

2) What's GB?

3) Build quality is the material the car is made from?

4) There's Jap conti hybrid cars?

5) Assembled in Jap with conti parts?

6) I thought cars are either jap or conti

1) Check the vios accident in the above post.

2) Gearbox

3) Feel to touch - Mazda got emblems in seats!

4) Streetname; made in japan, drive like a conti!

5) As #5

 

Jap Conti; feel the door closing...

You can pull your pinky in the door and slam it hard... You see whether a corolla is more painful compared with a Mazda [laugh]

 

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Turbocharged

1) Check the vios accident in the above post.

2) Gearbox

3) Feel to touch - Mazda got emblems in seats!

4) Streetname; made in japan, drive like a conti!

5) As #5

 

Jap Conti; feel the door closing...

You can pull your pinky in the door and slam it hard... You see whether a corolla is more painful compared with a Mazda [laugh]

 

Don't scare the TS until like the vios very unsafe. Must see the cause of the impact, which in this case is Truck VS car. Any car wouldn't stand a chance. Plus this Vios is the current model with rear drum brakes, a downgrade from the prev-Vios which was ALL DISC brakes. All disc brake has better braking power and actually complement the torquey nature of the old vios.

 

But having said that, a car being too light are more prone to instability at high speed and tend to have this "floaty" feeling, controls become somewhat insecure. You will usually feel this if you travel along expressway and highway(like in malaysia highway) at very high speeds.

 

So it's really up to the TS if he always chiong above 120km/h in expressway or not. Since he's a beginner as he claim, the car should be fine up to 110km/h.

 

 

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